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GHANA: THE QUEEN'S VISIT

Friday, Nov. 17, 1961
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"I am not a film star," said the Queen of England to Prime Minister Harold
Macmillan. "I am the head of the Commonwealth—and I am paid to face any risks
that may be involved. Nor do I say this lightly. Do not forget that I have three
children."

Thus Queen Elizabeth II agreed with Macmillan last week when he conveyed to her
his Cabinet's advice that she should carry out her royal visit to Ghana, despite
a spate of bombing incidents in Accra protesting the rule of Kwame Nkrumah.
Fearful of the Queen's safety, Macmillan dispatched Commonwealth Relations
Secretary Duncan Sandys once again to Ghana to see if the outbursts of violence
warranted the cancellation of the visit. After satisfying himself that the Queen
would be safe, Sandys flew back to London with the go-ahead signal.

Where It's Cooler. Assured that the Queen would finally make the visit
originally scheduled for 1959, but canceled because of the imminent birth of
Prince Andrew, Ghana prettied up and cleaned up. People driving into Accra who
could not prove that they had been vaccinated were summarily jabbed with a
smallpox injection. To reduce the threat of pickpocketing, the police rounded up
all ex-convicts on parole, threw them into the cooler for the duration of the
visit. Mothers were urged not to let their children run naked in the streets.

Outraged and embarrassed by the bombs, Osagyefo (the Redeemer) threw a number of
his opponents into jail. Work crews feverishly tried to repair Nkrumah's
bomb-blasted bronze statue in front of Parliament House. Supporters symbolically
bandaged the statue's shattered feet, covered it with white powder, and threw a
calico scarf over its right shoulder—Ghana's traditional symbol of victory.
Others slaughtered a goat at the base of the statue to cleanse it of evil
spirits.

The day of the Queen's arrival, cops kept back the crowds by charging
enthusiastically with night sticks and by driving their motorcycles directly at
them. On the airport tarmac sat 100 tribal chiefs surrounded by flunkies who
held giant velvet umbrellas over them. Each chief was accompanied by a
"linguist" (chiefs never speak directly to anyone save the linguists, who pass
on the message) and by a small boy, who functions as the soul of the chief. (In
the past, the boys were killed when the chief died.)

Guardian Spirit. As the Queen's plane touched the ground, a 21-gun salute boomed
out. Wearing a cream-colored lace dress and a matching suede hat, the Queen
shook hands warmly with a smiling, white-suited Nkrumah. A white-robed fetish
priest then poured a tot of gin on the ground as a libation to the gods to
ensure the Queen a safe visit. Said one onlooker: "Osagyefo needs that libation
for safety more than Her Majesty does."

Next day, a national holiday in the Queen's honor, was parade day in Accra.
Nkrumah accompanied Elizabeth and Prince Philip to an all-day march past in
Black Star Square. Osagyefo ordered his army to keep its Soviet equipment under
wraps, treated the Queen to an essentially British military show. At the
national welcoming ceremony, more than 100,000 people jammed the square; only
one other Ghanaian crowd had ever approached the strength of the throng—not for
Osagyefo, but for Satchmo Louis Armstrong.

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