www.departures.com Open in urlscan Pro
34.207.25.27  Public Scan

Form analysis
1 forms found in the DOM

POST

<form id="card-member-signin" method="post" data-action-url="https://www.departures.com/index.php?p=actions/auth-card-member/auth/auth">
  <span class="blitz-inject blitz-inject--injected" id="blitz-inject-1" data-blitz-id="1" data-blitz-uri="https://www.departures.com/actions/blitz/csrf/json" data-blitz-params="" data-blitz-property="input"><input type="hidden"
      name="CRAFT_CSRF_TOKEN" value="DZkLaCA03mi8AQA_nArwdPHm4Ir2gO9V3OV2TvVn4Hk6y_pWLe_N0G_DeB5PApMbz0kwe9Z5gB_HopHEsOW9Eq2PBAijE4ETWLGfARvXuIo="></span>
  <label htmlfor="cardNumber" class="visually-hidden"> Search: </label>
  <input type="text" pattern="\d*" maxlength="6" id="cardNumber" name="cardNumber" placeholder="Enter the first six digits of your card number.">
  <span class="signin-modal__response-message hidden"></span>
  <button type="submit">Welcome</button>
  <h5>Learn about <a href="https://www.americanexpress.com/?intlink=us-departures-signinmodule-membership" target="_blank" rel="noreferer noopener">membership.</a></h5>
</form>

Text Content

ENJOY THIS EXCLUSIVE STORY

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT DEPARTURES.

 * Arts
 * Cuisine
 * Style
 * Travel
 * Wellness
 * 

Sign in

Sign in
 * Arts
 * Cuisine
 * Style
 * Travel
 * Wellness
 * 


ESCAPE

In search of that place, that thing, that state that we forever long for.

Discover
 * About
 * Themes
 * Newsletter
 * Follow Us
   


Small


THE HARBOR HOUSE INN

Perched above a cove, a historical inn with a Michelin-starred restaurant
provides a chance to reset.

words by elissa polls, photography by Yoshihiro Makino

MOST READ TRAVEL

Small


VILLA CARLOTTA

One of Italy’s most charming boutique hotels offers style and hospitality in
equal...

Giving


PRESERVING PATAGONIA

For three decades, Kristine Tompkins has helped turn millions of acres of...

Notes From


AT THE EDGE OF THE MASAI MARA

A writer confronts his own mortality while retracing the footsteps of an
iconic...

MENDOCINO STILL FEELS like an untouched part of Northern California. A bit
farther than most tourists or Bay Area locals go for a quick trip, it offers
some quiet. Just 25 miles south of Mendocino is the small town of Elk —
population 208. There sits a charming boutique inn called the Harbor House.

With only 11 rooms divided between one house and detached cottages, this isn’t
an easy reservation to snag, especially since the inn has its very own
2-Michelin-star restaurant.

After a two-and-a-half-hour drive down winding roads canopied by redwood trees,
I arrive at the inn. Perched high above a pristine cove, the Harbor House is
surrounded by vegetable gardens, a chicken coop, wild landscaping, and views
from every angle. Built in 1916 by the Goodyear Redwood Company as a place to
entertain and showcase its redwood empire, the Harbor House transports visitors
to a simpler time. There are no televisions or cell service (Wi-Fi is optional
throughout the inn), forcing you to sit back, relax, and enjoy simplicities that
might otherwise be overlooked.

“While you’re on this property, it’s a farmhouse experience. So I think that's
really important — that people understand that this is a time for them to
recharge and recuperate,” says Chef Matthew Kammerer, whose cuisine is an
integral part of the Harbor House experience.

MOST READ TRAVEL

Notes From


AT THE EDGE OF THE MASAI MARA

A writer confronts his own mortality while retracing the footsteps of an
iconic...

Giving


PRESERVING PATAGONIA

For three decades, Kristine Tompkins has helped turn millions of acres of...

Future


A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

Three luxury properties provide insight and inspiration for environmentally...



You can have a 2-Michelin-star experience with humble ingredients — like the
asparagus that we picked this morning.

“I knew I wanted something not so close to a city, yet accessible. I was up in
Washington, outside of Portland, and down in Santa Barbara before. I spent a
year researching Elk and it was always my number one spot. Prior to even knowing
Harbor House was here, I was just drawn to this area because it is easily the
most beautiful place on the West Coast — the remoteness. It's still raw here.
There are no tour buses. It didn't feel like anything else,” describes Kammerer.

The interior of the Harbor House is flanked in dark wood, softly lit by vintage
sconces and lamps. A roaring fireplace in the common area is surrounded by
bookshelves — the perfect spot to enjoy a book, beverage, or just be. The rooms
are just as cozy; an understated luxury manages to feel both pampering and
homey. Shelves house books, anchor mementos, and shells from the nearby cove.

Before sunset, I venture down a flight of stairs for a quarter mile to the
private cove below the inn. The path down passes a rushing waterfall before
reaching the beach, where the sand is covered in varied seashells. The abalone
are the most prevalent, alongside a dozen abandoned crabs being feasted on by
pelicans. As the temperature drops, I work my way back up the stairs to take in
the last bit of light from one of the many outdoor chairs lining the property.
I’m just in time for dinner.

The culinary offerings at the Harbor House allow guests to experience the
Mendocino coast through taste. In 2021 the restaurant received its second
Michelin star along with a Michelin green clover for its sustainability efforts.
The menu changes daily based on two factors: product availability and weather.
All of the produce comes from either the on-site garden or their 320-acre farm
located about 25 minutes south by car, and the team also forages in the nearby
area. Fish is always sourced from the local harbor and meat only makes an
appearance if it comes from a local farmer. The restaurant’s farm, which already
supplies beef, plans to introduce goats and chickens later this year.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ADVERTISEMENT




If you’re a Bay Area resident, you’re no stranger to farm-to-table dining. Chef
Kammerer, however, has taken the meaning of local to another level. He describes
his mission: “We are truly serving only local food and showing people that you
can have a 2-Michelin-star experience with humble ingredients — like the
asparagus that we picked this morning, which is going to taste better than the
one that spent time on a plane. Hopefully it inspires other chefs to take a
different approach. You don't have to serve ingredients that come from across
the world. Just do a little bit more research into what's around you.”

The dining room offers one seating for a 10–12 course dinner five days a week,
and one seating for a three-course lunch four days a week. Seating only 18, the
dining experience is just as intimate as the inn it's nestled in. A long wooden
table topped with ceramic vases filled with dried local flowers is the dining
room’s centerpiece. “All of the tables in the dining room are from one piece of
wood 45 minutes north of here,” Chef Kammerer tells me. “There's a lot of
thought that goes in there.” Abalone shells from the cove adorn the dark wooden
walls above another fireplace.

With the dining room closed for updates during my stay, I have the pleasure of
experiencing a 10-course meal from the comfort of my room. I enjoy it in a robe
and slippers, lounging by the fireplace, the sound of the waves crashing outside
the window. Each dish is served on a unique vessel that’s been sourced from a
local artisan. The inn works with a number of artists to create one-of-a-kind
pieces specific to the Harbor House, with the idea that plateware can elevate a
dish.

My first course, Pacific Gold oysters with verjus, sits in a clear bowl filled
with stones that remind me of the beach walk I took earlier in the day. The
abalone is accompanied by a delicate custard served in a ceramic mug with a
matching top. Next comes urchin and sushi rice accompanied by hedgehog
mushrooms, followed by Knights Valley Wagyu plated with maitakes and jus to
close out the entrees. After I finish my last morsel of the four-course dessert
paired with a marigold-infused tea, I draw a warm bath full of Epsom salts in my
clawfoot tub before retreating to bed.



The dining experience doesn’t end at dinner. A breakfast spread, also served in
my room, includes an egg dish so special I prolong finishing it as long as
humanly possible. Speaking again of the room, mine has a view of the ocean so
stunning it makes me appreciate the lack of cell service — I can take it in
without any screens to distract me. Chef Kammerer knows the feeling: “That’s the
challenge for people — to get into that headspace. It’s okay to just look out
the window. That’s why you're here. It’s not easy for the guests to be able to
put themselves in that spot, to really take it, take it in.”

Even though it’s cold and raining, I can’t help but accept the weather and
appreciate everything that comes along with it. The Harbor House feels like it
moves with the season. Just like the food, the experience is based on everything
around you in that very moment. I plan to stop by again this spring or summer,
and look forward to enjoying warmer temperatures, a new menu, and all that a new
season will bring to this beautiful, peaceful place.


THE MOST SCENIC SPOTS NEAR MENDOCINO

Producer Elissa Polls shares her favorite weekend getaways from the Bay Area.

 * Sea Ranch Lodge
   
   A must for anyone traveling on Highway 1. The lodge is one of the oldest
   buildings in the town of Sea Ranch and is worth a stop for a great meal. Or
   simply have a glass of wine while enjoying ocean views and Sea Ranch’s iconic
   architecture.

 * Timber Cove
   
   If you’re making stops along Highway 1, this is another great hotel with
   fantastic views that houses a restaurant, Coast Kitchen, worth visiting —
   it’s located in the town of Jenner.

 * Dillon Beach
   
   This beach is a great place to stop for a stroll, or for people- and
   dog-watching. It’s one of my favorite dog beaches in Northern California.

 * Sea Ranch Chapel
   
   This nondenominational sanctuary is beautiful both inside and out. The chapel
   is situated along the loveliest walking path.

 * Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary
   
   If you are seeking some zen on your way in or out of Mendocino, make sure to
   book an appointment at Osmosis Day Spa. I highly recommend the cedar bath.

 * Sea Ranch Lodge
   
   A must for anyone traveling on Highway 1. The lodge is one of the oldest
   buildings in the town of Sea Ranch and is worth a stop for a great meal. Or
   simply have a glass of wine while enjoying ocean views and Sea Ranch’s iconic
   architecture.

 * Sea Ranch Chapel
   
   This nondenominational sanctuary is beautiful both inside and out. The chapel
   is situated along the loveliest walking path.

 * Timber Cove
   
   If you’re making stops along Highway 1, this is another great hotel with
   fantastic views that houses a restaurant, Coast Kitchen, worth visiting —
   it’s located in the town of Jenner.

 * Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary
   
   If you are seeking some zen on your way in or out of Mendocino, make sure to
   book an appointment at Osmosis Day Spa. I highly recommend the cedar bath.

 * Dillon Beach
   
   This beach is a great place to stop for a stroll, or for people- and
   dog-watching. It’s one of my favorite dog beaches in Northern California.

EXPLORE MORE

 * California
 * Hotels
 * Mendocino
 * Small Stays

View More

OUR CONTRIBUTORS


ELISSA POLLS WRITER

Elissa Polls is the senior director of content production for Departures. A
producer who typically stays behind the scenes, she has worked with creatives
from around the world helping bring their ideas to life. Elissa has over 15
years of production experience and lives in Berkeley, California.


YOSHIHIRO MAKINO PHOTOGRAPHER

Yoshihiro Makino, born and raised in Tokyo, is an architectural and interior
photographer based in Los Angeles. Makino is drawn to cultural co-influences in
design seen between Japan and other countries. His work takes him around the
world capturing spaces and portraits for a vast array of editorial, private, and
commercial clients.


',


MORE SMALL


LUXURY REBORN

A historic hotel on the Sea of Galilee gets a modern makeover.

Words by Flora Tsapovsky, Photography by Harel Gilboa


A JEWEL OF MARIN COUNTY

Monk Estate, a new shop in Point Reyes Station, is filled with new and antique
delights.

words and photography by skye parrott


A CARIBBEAN HIDEAWAY DESIGNED BY ARTISTS

Helen and Brice Marden’s boutique hotel in Nevis is a colorful paradise where
nature is winning.

words by anna godbersen, photography by victor stonem


THE BUTCHER WHO WANTS YOU TO EAT LESS MEAT

This women-run butcher shop and restaurant on Washington’s Vashon Island offers
a menu that is beautifully planned and ethically sourced.

words by nina renata aron, photography by aya brackett


VILLA CARLOTTA

One of Italy’s most charming boutique hotels offers style and hospitality in
equal measure.

words by Hannah Seligson, photography by Depasquale+Maffini


CASONA SFORZA

A hotel with a story as beautiful as its design.

words by sophie mancini, photography by ana hop


PARAMOUNT HOUSE HOTEL

The boutique hotel in Sydney offers a multitude of cinematic experiences under
one roof.

words by Mary Pearson Andrew, photography by derek henderson


GEEJAM HOTEL

A music-infused getaway in Jamaica where local and luxurious meet.

words by alex frank, photography by sean sullivan


D ROOM JEJU

How a design hotel on South Korea’s biggest island is revitalizing its historic
port district.

words by elaine yj lee, photography by Kim S. Gon


GRIČ

Michelin takes note of a young chef's modern vision of Slovenian cuisine.

Words by Sophie Mancini, Photography by Kata Geibl




EXPLORE MORE TRAVEL

FUTURE


A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

Three luxury properties provide insight and inspiration for environmentally
conscious travelers.

words by t. cole rachel, photography by mark hartman

GIVING


THE GREAT SPA TOWNS OF EUROPE

Take a dip into UNESCO’s recently designated therapeutic springs.

words by adam h. graham, photography by kata geibl

NOTES FROM


A WINTER TRIP TO BIG SKY COUNTRY

A respite at the Resort at Paws Up in Greenough, Montana, that’s equal parts
rugged and relaxing.

words by Nina Renata Aron, photography by Skye Parrott

SMALL


CASONA SFORZA

A hotel with a story as beautiful as its design.

words by sophie mancini, photography by ana hop

RETURNS


PARADISE LOST AND FOUND

Returning home to Tripoli after 40 years in exile.

Words by Mario Calvo-Platero



LET’S KEEP IN TOUCH

Subscribe to our newsletter

You’re no longer on our newsletter list, but you can resubscribe anytime.

 * About
 * Newsletter
 * Terms of Use
 * Privacy Policy
 * AdChoices
 * Follow Us
   instagram logo to go Instagram account twitter logo to go Twitter account

Departures is a lifestyle resource for U.S. issued American Express Platinum
Card® and Centurion® Members. While Departures is owned by American Express, the
content is independently written by third party writers and creators. © 2022
American Express Company


COME ON IN

U.S. issued American Express Platinum Card® and Centurion® Members, enter the
first six digits of your card number to access your complimentary subscription.

SignIn Close Button
Search: Welcome

LEARN ABOUT MEMBERSHIP.