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LEARN WHAT MAKES MEAT MARINADES WORK. TEST THE SCIENCE WITH THIS FLAP MEAT
RECIPE.

By: Bill St. John, for UCHealth
Aug. 30, 2022

Try this tender flap meat recipe with a gribiche sauce. You’ll enjoy a great
meal and will learn more about what makes meat marinades work. Photo by Bill St.
John.

A piece of received cooking wisdom about marinating meats is that the acidity in
the marinade — whether from wine, citrus juice or vinegar — is what “breaks down
the meat’s toughness.” The further claim that that same acidity “makes the meat
tender and juicy” is rubbish.

It is the salt in a marinade that performs the yeoman’s service of tenderizing
meat’s connective tissues or musculature, especially if delivered in a liquid
(for example, soy sauce). And what carries onto and into the meat those desired
and designed flavors of a marinade — garlic or onion, herbs, chile heat or other
spice — is oil. Fat is a flavor carrier in all respects, in a cooking
preparation or on the palate.

Salt and fat do the flavor work; acidity isn’t that important.

Acidity in a marinade is a bit player, really, and affects merely the exterior
of any piece of meat. It doesn’t penetrate, as kitchen saws have it. In fact, if
the meat is exposed to acidity for too long a time (depending on the cut of
meat, anywhere from 30 minutes for a boneless breast of chicken to a few hours
for some gnarly ribs), acidity actually “cooks” or firms up the meat by
denaturing its protein (see: ceviche), or turns the meat’s surface to mush,
markedly.

A bit of science helps understand the interplay of especially the salt, but also
the fat and acidity, in a marinade for meat, fowl or fish.

Learn other great tips and recipes from Bill St. John.

The point of a marinade is to introduce both flavor and tenderness. Marinades,
generally liquids though sometimes concocted as “dry rubs,” do this by brining
meat. The osmotic pressure created by sodium pulls water from a place of higher
moisture (the marinade) into a place with lower moisture (the meat).

Also because of the salt, the marinade restructures the myosin protein molecules
of the meat by loosening them and creating gaps in between them that, further,
fill with moisture and thereby increase juiciness. As it does that, it also
seasons (literally “salts”) the interior of the meat.

Again, beware: that same osmotic pressure does a sort of push notification of
the marinade’s acidity into the meat and, to carry the analogy, may spam it into
chalky mushiness if left in contact with the meat for too long.

Fat doesn’t penetrate as salt does or acidity can do. Because it emulsifies and
thereby thickens the elements of a marinade, it remains mostly on the surface of
the meat with its delicious flavoring compounds. Later, it also acts as a sort
of buffer between the surface of the meat and, when it is set to flame or heat,
its cooking source.

In a marinade, then, keep the ratio of fat and acidity about 1:1, never skewing
higher than that in favor of acidity. And err on the side of caution with time
so that any acidity doesn’t veer from help to harm.

Finally, salt with abandon, even pumping up the effect of salt by enlisting the
ancillary work of a protease (an enzyme that breaks down proteins) with the
salt. Name for that? Soy sauce and its kin. “Too much salt” in a marinade or a
brine shouldn’t worry you. The sodium seems to stick around at just the right
level. It’s true.

Finally, the cuts of meat to benefit most from marinating are, of course, those
with the highest concentrations of difficult-to-tenderize tissues. Chicken
thighs versus breasts, for example; pork shoulder as opposed to loin, for
another.

As for beef cuts, skirt and “flap” meat (both different, both the same,
depending on the butcher or the region of the country) and flank meat fill the
bill, as do tri-tip and hanger meat, sometimes cut and sold as “steaks”
so-named. Most beef rib meat, short or long, also marinate well.

GRILLED OR PAN-SEARED FLAP MEAT WITH SAUCE GRIBICHE

From Chef Jamey Fader and Bill St. John. Serves 4.

Ingredients

1 pound “flap” or beef belly meat such as flank or skirt steak

2 large heirloom tomatoes, peeled, sliced thickly beginning at and in the
direction of their “equators”

1 white onion, or sweet onion, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick beginning at and
in the direction of their “equators”

Olive oil, salt and pepper, for grilling or pan-searing

FOR THE FLAP MEAT MARINADE:

1/2 cup dry red wine (or 100% tart cherry juice)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 bunch green onions (scallions), trimmed at the root and 3 inches of dark green
sliced away, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, loose

2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

2 naval or blood oranges, or 1 sour orange, juiced, and their peels, cut up

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

FOR THE SAUCE GRIBICHE:

1 large egg, hard cooked, peeled and halved

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon sherry or white wine vinegar

1 small sour pickle or cornichon

10 capers, salted or in brine or vinegar, well rinsed and squeezed of their
rinse

1/4-1/2 cup lightly packed fresh green herbs such as flat-leaf parsley, summer
savory, tarragon, or a mixture, very finely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

In a bowl, mix together well all the ingredients for the marinade. Place the
beef meat in a large plastic zippered bag and toss in the marinade, sloshing it
around the meat, and sealing the bag. Lay the bag over paper toweling in the
refrigerator for at least 3 hours, turning the bag once or twice if possible.

Prepare the Sauce Gribiche: Remove the egg’s yolk to a small bowl, add the
mustard and smoosh them together into a paste with the back of a fork. Drizzle
in the olive oil, stirring well, making an emulsion. Add the sherry or wine
vinegar. Chop the egg white, the pickle, and the capers (if the capers are
large) until they’re all minced. Add them to the sauce, along with the green
herbs. Mix the sauce together well. Adjust for salt and pepper and set aside to
serve at room temperature.

Prepare the tomatoes and onions by grilling or searing them, over medium-high or
high heat, in a cast iron skillet (or heavy iron grilling pan) until they are
slightly cooked through but nicely charred, 2-5 minutes (far less for the
tomatoes than the onions), removing them and setting them aside.

To cook the steak: Drain it of its marinade and lightly pat it dry with paper
toweling. Over the same heat as for the tomatoes and onions, sear and cook the
steak for 2-3 minutes on each side (no longer, perhaps as little as 90 seconds,
depending on the thickness of the meat; you want a char on the exterior, but a
thin line of pink or red down the center).

Let the meat rest for 5 minutes before slicing it against the grain, into
“fingers” that you will lay atop an arrangement of the tomatoes and onions,
everything dabbled with the Sauce Gribiche.

Reach Bill St John at billstjohn@gmail.com

Bill St. John Recipes

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

BILL ST. JOHN, FOR UCHEALTH

For more than 40 years, Bill St. John’s specialties have been as varied as they
are cultured. He writes and teaches about restaurants, wine, food & wine, the
history of the cuisines of several countries (France, Italy, Spain, Belgium, and
the USA), about religion and its nexus with food, culture, history, or
philosophy, and on books, travel, food writing, op-ed, and language.

Bill has lent (and lends) his subject matter expertise to such outlets as The
Rocky Mountain News, The Denver Post, The Chicago Tribune, 5280 Magazine, and
for various entities such as food markets, wine shops, schools & hospitals, and,
for its brief life, Microsoft’s sidewalk.com. In 2001 he was nominated for a
James Beard Award in Journalism for his 12 years of writing for Wine & Spirits
Magazine.

Bill's experience also includes teaching at Regis University and the University
of Chicago and in classrooms of his own devising; working as on-air talent with
Denver's KCNC-TV, where he scripted and presented a travel & lifestyle program
called "Wine at 45"; a one-week stint as a Trappist monk; and offering his
shoulder as a headrest for Julia Child for 20 minutes.

Bill has also visited 54 countries, 42 of the United States, and all 10 Canadian
provinces.

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