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Food Culture
THE REAL JOY OF COOKING
To find true pleasure in the kitchen, focus first on the dishes that make you
happy.
By Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl | Experience LifeJanuary 5, 2016
Most people I know don’t really love to cook. For them, time spent in the
kitchen is all about getting a meal on the table after a long day at the office
and before — or between — soccer practices, swimming lessons, or any of an
expanding variety of family obligations. That does not stop many of them from
dreaming, however.
I hear a lot of true confessions about failed attempts at healthy home cooking.
These are sad tales that usually begin with grand ambitions inspired by cooking
shows and a delusional belief that preparing a meal should be a joyful pursuit.
A typical scenario involves an aspiring, but slightly ambivalent, cook — let’s
call her Ambie — who wants to improve her diet while having fun and being
creative in the kitchen.
So inspired, Ambie goes to the grocery store and fills her cart with unfamiliar
but awesome-sounding stuff (quinoa! forbidden rice! kimchi sprouts!) and plunges
into a “simple” recipe for a vegetarian chili that she stumbled upon while
clicking through some hot new food blogs. It has a lot of different grains and
beans and too much cumin, and the onion scraps stink up Ambie’s garbage.
When she finally sits down to savor the fruits of all her labor, Ambie finds the
chili to be mostly inedible — somehow both gummy and crunchy. She salvages it,
such as she can, with a lot of grated cheese and salsa, and tries to put it out
of her mind, even though the house smells powerfully of food she now hates.
> When she finally sits down to savor the fruits of all her labor, Ambie finds
> the chili to be mostly inedible — somehow both gummy and crunchy.
The next day, Ambie experiences a fresh and unexpected crisis at work and spends
the next two evenings eating takeout burritos at her desk.
By midweek she is home for dinner, exhausted, and still depressed about the
leftover chili. She opens her refrigerator to find that the only produce that
hasn’t wilted is a chunk of cabbage, and she wonders what she did in a previous
life to deserve raw cabbage for dinner in this one.
By Friday, Ambie has to go out for double cheeseburgers with her friends because
she’ll do almost anything to avoid the smell of failure that now greets her
every time she steps into her kitchen.
Sound familiar?
Whenever I hear these stories, my instinct is to help those people find a way to
make healthy meals more joyful. So here’s what I suggest: Start by sitting down
with a pen and paper. Make a list of meals you actually love to eat — including
stuff that isn’t particularly healthy.
Once you complete your list, circle the dishes that are actually healthy. Is it
a Greek salad? A roast chicken? An omelet with herbs and goat cheese? White-bean
stew with kale and garlicky lamb sausage? If you wrote down unhealthy things,
that’s fine. Just skip them for now.
At the start of the week, pick one of those meals you love, and buy all the
stuff you need — and want — to make it as amazing as it can be.
Let’s say it’s a Greek salad. With a fine red-wine vinegar, high-quality
kalamata olives, fresh ground pepper, and some really good feta cheese, you can
make a version that’s way better than what you’d get alongside takeout from the
local pizza place.
Consider this meal a gift to yourself, because you deserve nice dinners. Enjoy
it to the utmost. Take a picture if you’re so inspired.
Next week, add another dish from your list. Maybe it’s a roast chicken and some
baked sweet potatoes. Now you have two meals in your repertoire, and with all
those kalamata olives and the red-wine vinegar in the house, making that second
great Greek salad will be easy.
In the following week, pull in a third dish from your list. Is it a crock pot of
minestrone soup, bubbling with beans?
There’s a lesson here: If you don’t cook, or haven’t yet, don’t dive into it
with cooking as the focus of your efforts. Just do what makes you happy — make
the food you love to eat.
That, my friends, is the real joy of cooking!
If you’re thinking, This is not much more than the joy of planning, you are
correct. But it’s also about cooking for the person you are today, the taste
preferences you have today, and the smarts you most likely already possess about
what’s good for you (vegetables, legumes, a modest amount of good organic meat)
and what’s not so good (sugars, processed flours, and fats and oils that can’t
be made without factories).
> You also have to do an honest reckoning about the time you have available to
> cook.
You also have to do an honest reckoning about the time you have available to
cook. When you sit down with your pen and paper, think about how many minutes
and hours you can actually spare to prepare food on weeknights and weekends.
Ambie is always trying to fit two-hour recipes into half-hour slots. She
believes she should be able to make chicken cacciatore on a Thursday night after
work because a TV chef — or some friend on Facebook — tells her it’s easy.
If you routinely have a half hour to get dinner on the table for a family full
of little kids, you might not want to try to cook hot entrées — for now.
Take some time on less busy weekends to cook triple batches of the dishes you
all love that can be frozen (meatballs in sauce, minestrone soup, chicken stew,
chili, taco fillings, or whatever you like), then simply thaw and reheat them on
those jam-packed days. Warmed-up chicken soup, fruit and cheese, and a cut-up
red pepper is a fine dinner for a 4-year-old on a weeknight.
Slow and steady wins the race. If you start by cooking for the person you are,
you’re much more likely to succeed than if you try to cook for — and be — the
someone you’re not.
The more I hear about people’s recurrent dilemmas, sad failures, and hopeless
surrenders in the kitchen, the more I am convinced that misguided striving is a
huge part of the problem.
My real advice for Ambie, and everyone, is to focus on finding your own personal
joy and tastes. That’s when cooking becomes a whole lot easier — and a lot more
fun.
LOOKING FOR EASY RECIPES?
Explore the recipes from our Something Simple department featuring
tried-and-true recipes from our food editor’s home kitchen.
Explore Something Simple
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl is a James Beard Award–winning food and wine writer.
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