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Home » Blog » Lawn Care » Month-by-Month Lawn Care Calendar & Schedule
MONTH-BY-MONTH LAWN CARE CALENDAR & SCHEDULE
by Mark Marino|Updated March 6, 2022|10 comments
Looking for a month by month lawn care calendar? Lawn Phix created this
specialized lawn care calendar and schedule for cool-season grasses – located in
the Northeast (Zone 6b) in New England. Quickly check your lawn care tasks for
each month of the season in this monthly guide to a healthy, thick green turf.
View and make a copy of my lawn care calendar on Google Sheets – and download a
free copy of my cool-season lawn care guide here.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
* March Lawn Care
* April Lawn Care
* May Lawn Care
* June Lawn Care
* July Lawn Care
* August Lawn Care
* September Lawn Care
* October Lawn Care
* November Lawn Care
*
* FAQs
MARCH LAWN CARE
* The first day of spring is March 20, 2022
* Cleaning up is the main goal this month. Remove all branches, sticks, twigs,
acorns and/or pine cones from the grass
* Assess the lawn and look for troubled areas including snow mold
* Pick up all other debris such as leaves that may have stuck remained over
winter. A leaf blower is a good idea
* Get your mower ready. Sharpen your blades. I love the Gator G3 mulching blade
by Oregon
* Get a soil test done so you know what your dirt needs heading into the season
APRIL LAWN CARE
* Early spring lawn care: Lightly rake the grass. This is going to help with
airflow and circulation, and allow the blades of grass to stand up, exposing
more blade surface to the sunlight
* Use a pre-emergent herbicides before soil temps hit 55 degrees. When
forsythia start blooming, the crabgrass seeds are germinating. Stay ahead
here
* If you didn’t winterize your lawn from the previous fall/winter, and didn’t
add a late season fertilizer, apply a spring fertilizer application.
* Consider adding humic acids and micro nutrient to begin activating the soil
microbes. Kelp4Less ExtremeBlend or Green lawn & Turf.
* Lime here if needed (see: soil test)
* 4 Step Plan users: Your Step 1 begins now
* Detailed Spring Lawn Care Tips
* Products:
* Barricade (liquid)
* 0-0-7 Prodiamine (granular)
* 25-0-10 with Dimension (granular)
* Dimension 2EW (liquid)
* Kelp4Less Extreme Blend
* Green lawn & Turf
MAY LAWN CARE
* Mow tall and frequently. Recycle, or mulch your clippings back into the
grass. Don’t bag unless the clippings are too long – in which case you need
to mow taller and/or more frequently. Looking for 3″ blades
* Continue to address soil test. Add a starter fertilizer now as soil temps hit
60 degrees and the turf really begins to grow
* Apply a second application of pre-emergent, this time using Dithiopyr. It
also has post emergent qualities that will help kill crabgrass and
dandelions
* Begin to spot spray and kill weeds. For a detailed post about weed control,
read How To Get Rid of and Control Weeds in Your Lawn
* Understand N counts by using our Nitrogen Calculator
* Begin your fungicide preventative treatments now
* Products:
* Acelepryn liquid or granular
* Kelp4Less
* Carbon Phix
* Fungicide prevention
JUNE LAWN CARE
* The first day of summer is June 21, 2022
* Begin your irrigation. Aim for 1″-1.5″ of water per week – including natural
rain water. Water deeply but infrequently: 2-3 times per week at the most,
preferably between 4-9 a.m.
* Grub Control & Treatment: If there’s a history of grubs or sod webworms, add
a prevention (imidacloprid). To kill grubs within 48 hours, use an
insecticide like Dylox.
* Fungus, such as brown patch, can also start now. Ideal climates are hot and
humid. 2018 had lots of rain and hot humid overnight temps which was ideal
for brown spot etc. An application of Heritage G can preventative and control
turfgrass diseases for up to 28 days (also see products from May above)
* Raise mower height to ~3.5″ (depending on grass type)
* Spot-spray broadleaf weeds in earlier mornings or later evenings when air
temperatures are under 85 degrees
* Products:
* Heritage G
* Scott’s GrubEx
* Merit (Imidacloprid)
* Milorganite
JULY LAWN CARE
* High heat and low rainfalls may lead to dormant grasses
* Irrigate as long as your town allows. Aiming for 1.5″ of weekly watering
* Keep an eye out for lawn diseases and fungus – especially as humidity rises
* Apply curative rates of fungicides
* Watch for grubs and other lawn insects
* Fertilize with slow release nitrogen fertilizer and organic lawn products
* Summer Survival (Potash , Humic Acid, Sea Kelp) is a great option
* Never fertilize dormant turf
* Products:
* Fungicides
* Crabgrass Killers
* Broadleaf Weed Killers
* Summer Survival
AUGUST LAWN CARE
* Keep an eye out for lawn diseases and fungus – especially as humidity rises.
* Treat with liquid lawn fungicides
* Watch for grubs and other lawn insects
* Use Dylox Granular or Dylox Liquid to kill grubs and cinch bugs
* Fertilize with organic, slow-release fertilizer
* Never fertilize dormant turf
* Apply micos like 0-0-2 MicroGreene, RGS or Humic12
* Prepare to overseed and kill weeds
* Depending on weed type, use broadleaf weed killers and/or crabgrass killers
* Best time to renovate your lawn
SEPTEMBER LAWN CARE
* First day of fall is September 22, 2022
* Best time of year to start a new lawn and/or overseed you lawn
* Dethatch using a power rake, tow-behind dethatcher, or dethatching rake
* Core aerate doing a double-pass – up/down then left/right (north/south and
east/west)
* Mow low around 2 – 2.5″
* Overseed or slice seed with a quality grass seed such as Jonathan Green Black
Beauty or GCI Turf. Depending on how thin or think your turn is, aiming for
3- lbs. per 1,000
* Fertilize with a a quality starter fertilizer such as XSTART from Yard
Mastery.
* Lime – depending on soil needs, a calcitic lime like Jonathan Green Magical
* When seeding, you can also use Tenacity
* Not seeding? Consider nitrogen blitz to push your lawn to recovery.
OCTOBER LAWN CARE
* Mow low again, aiming for ~2.5 – 3.0″ grass height. Final cut of the season
should be 2″
* If you skipped September tasks, do it early as nighttime temps will drop to
unfavorable temperatures for new seedlings trying to germinate
* Begin winterizer fertilizer like Macro-Micro Blend by Yard Mastery or ProPEAT
17-0-4
* Depending on location – After your final mow (when the grass stops top
growth) and before your ground freezes
Related post: Prepare your lawn for winter
NOVEMBER LAWN CARE
* Lime with pelletized lime to over-winter: Jonathan Green Magical
* Final application of winterizer fertilizer: Macro-Micro Blend by Yard Mastery
or ProPEAT 17-0-4
* Final mow with a HOC of ~2″
So, there you have it. I hope this calendar helps you with your annual lawn care
maintenance. It’s worked for me – check out my front yard renovations.
Please let me know what you think by leaving a comment below.
FAQS
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO OVERSEED MY LAWN?
For cool-season lawns, the best time to overseed is late summer and early fall.
For example, in the Northeast and Zone 5-6, the last week of August or the
beginning of September are the best conditions for new grass. The number of
weeds to be invasive is much lower in September than spring seeding in the
spring (April).
CAN I FERTILIZE MY LAWN IN THE SUMMERTIME?
If you can irrigate regularly, you can still add fertilizer. However, it is best
to apply less nitrogen during the hot summer months – particularly when drought
stress occurs. Ideally, spoon-feeding with micronutrients such as humic acid and
sea kelp (Kelp4Less ExtremeBlend) or a combination with molasses powder
(Kelp4Less Green Lawn & Turf). Molasses in the hotter months can provide energy
in the form of sugars/carbohydrates which can help “dethatch” the lawn.
HOW EARLY CAN I FERTILIZE MY LAWN IN SPRING?
In the Northeast and Massachusetts (Zone 5-6) for example, you can begin to feed
your lawn in April and May. Feeding your lawn too early can cause excessive top
growth which isn’t ideal – particularly if there’s still a risk of freezing
overnight temperatures and morning frost. When the air and soil temperatures are
consistently in the 40s and 50s respectively is a good time to begin your
feeding.
HOW FREQUENTLY SHOULD I MOW MY LAWN?
During peak growing season (May & June in the Northeast) you could be mowing as
frequently as 2-3 times per week. This, of course, also depends on your
fertilization and watering schedule. Ideally, you follow the “1/3 rule” where
you are never cutting off more than 1/3 of the grass blade during each mowing.
For example, if you want to maintain a 3″ lawn, you never want the grass to
exceed
AUTHOR
MARK MARINO
Mark has been an avid lawn care DIY'er since 2013. After years of studying and
hands-on experience in perfecting his lawn, his Lawn Phix guides, and blogs now
help hundreds of people get the greenest grass on their blocks. Lawn Phix now
also offers full lawn care services in the Norfolk County area of Massachusetts.
147 posts
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10 THOUGHTS ON “MONTH-BY-MONTH LAWN CARE CALENDAR & SCHEDULE”
* 10 comments
* Abby
May 11, 2020, 1:47 pm
Hi,
I appreciate you providing this info! I’m new at caring for my lawn, but have
really enjoyed learning over the last few years.
Recently I’ve discovered Poa Annua in a large portion of my yard. We live in
Boston. I know I need to apply a pre-emergent in the fall for prevention, but
since I’m seeing the weeds in my yard now, I’ve read that putting down a
post-emergent would be a good idea. The problem is that most post-emergent
herbicides are for warm season grasses. What would you recommend for this
problem?
Thanks for your help!
Reply
* Mark Marino Post author
May 12, 2020, 11:40 am
Hi Abby. You can use Tenacity to damage the plant. But they are annuals, so
they will soon die off by the summer. The Tenacity will cause it to turn
brown – not sure if you want that at this time of year.
https://lawnphix.com/lawn-care/poa-annua-annual-bluegrass-weed-control/
Apply your normal split applications of pre-emergents in early April and
early June, and again late August. Mow tall and avoid over-watering. These
will help suppress poa annua. But keep in mind that they drop many seeds.
These seeds are tough and can remain dormant in the soil for several years
before germinating. So it’s a classic case of being a marathon and not a
sprint. Good luck!
Reply
* Al
May 13, 2020, 1:37 am
Hi,
I really enjoy your month by month care program. One of a kind out there.
I live in Lexington MA, and I’ve been having a lot of moss growing all over.
And so are my neighbors. I know about poor drainage, acidic soil and
wet/humid conditions, but is moss a growing problem now a days? (pardon the
pun). Anyway, what can I do to mitigate this issue? thanks for you time and
efforts.
Al
Reply
* Mark Marino Post author
May 13, 2020, 10:31 am
Hi Al – thanks! Sounds like you know what type of soil conditions are for
moss. But it can really grow anywhere. Aside from what you mentioned (damp
conditions, shady area etc.) moss also grows because of bare spots. Mother
Nature doesn’t like bare spots and will fill it in, be it moss or weeds
etc. You could kill the moss with Moss Out when try to re-seed that area.
I’d probably suggest bringing in some new screened loam and overseeding
heavily to cover those areas. Good luck and I hope this helps!
Reply
* Julio
May 17, 2020, 3:31 am
Hi Mark,
Great information for someone who’s completely new to lawn care!
I had some large patches of dead grass (learned recently due to grubs – I
thought it was just dormant, and it wasn’t coming back). I just removed the
dead grass, but is it too late to seed? If it is, and I seed in the fall,
would I apply the starter fertilizer to the bare spots, seed, and then switch
back to regular for the rest of the lawn?
Reply
* Mark Marino Post author
May 18, 2020, 8:22 am
Hi Julio,
Thanks! Depending on where you live, it may not be too late. I’m in
Massachusetts and just seeded my backyard. Just get good seed-to-soil
contact, cover with peat moss, and keep it damp. If you seeded in the fall,
I would overseed the entire yard, hit those bare spots heavier, and use
starter fertilizer over the entire lawn.
Good luck!
Reply
* Tim
May 1, 2021, 8:00 pm
Great article! I’ve been following along to your google sheet which is a
great toolfor a rookie like me. So far I’ve done the prodiamine and propeat
13-5-8. I’m due for another pro peat (17-0-4) fertilizer soon and then after
that also going to apply the Andersons fertilizer with .25% dimension 21-0-10
as the second pre-emergent (following your 5 best pre-emergents article)
instead of the 19-0-7. My Question is around the weeds and clovers I already
have in my lawn, since there’s a decent amount in some spots. Should I
replace the next fertilizer with a weed and feed product to help kill the
current weeds, clovers, etc, or should I just continue the course with the
next propeat 17-0-4 and Andersons 21-0-10? Or maybe just spot spray the
weeds? Pretty big yard so hand picking the weeds would be quite the task. I’m
in Foxboro, MA. Thanks again for posting all this great stuff!
Reply
* Mark Marino Post author
May 1, 2021, 8:19 pm
Hi Tim. Thanks for following along and for your comment! I’d personally
spot spray. You will have better results. Weed and feed can be tricky: the
ground needs to be damp for the product to stick to the weeds. You also
have to be mindful of your mowing and irrigation/weather.
Feel free to also use the new Carbon Phix as a replacement. It’s a 20-0-12
and has lots of great stuff like iron and Humic.
Reply
* Trish
November 8, 2021, 6:35 am
Is it too late to put down Winterguard Weed and Feed in New Jersey?
Reply
* Mark Marino Post author
November 11, 2021, 7:58 am
Hi Trish – If your soil temps are still in the 50s, then the herbicides
should still be effective. If not, I’d apply a winter fertilizer (no
herbicides) when the grass’ top-growth has stopped – after your final
mowing. I like the 10-0-20 by Jonathan Green.
Reply
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