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Read more
Living World


THE LIFE AND TIMES OF SHAG 224796

Kawau tikitiki, spotted shags, are a little bit special. In the Hauraki Gulf,
they’re genetically unique and highly endangered. Auckland Museum senior
researcher Matt Rayner has spent the last few years trying to figure out how to
stop them disappearing entirely.


MAGAZINE

ISSUE 186



Blue carbon



Chickens



Cyclone recovery



HoneyComb hill



e-DNA

Subscribe

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Editorial


GONE FISHING

Mum and Dad’s first date was in a dinghy. As soon as my brothers and I could
hold a handline they had us dangling for spotties off the Picton wharf. We
adored it. The jostle for the best spot. The smell of sunscreen and squid bait.
Tug. “A monster!” Mum and Dad would exclaim, as we pulled up fish no longer than
a finger. Fishing brought its own list of firsts, little markers of
independence: the first time you baited up a hook by yourself. The first time
you grabbed hold of a flipping, spiky body, held it still, eased the hook out.
First time you hooked yourself. As we got older, we hauled up blue cod and
flouncing, barking gurnard from Wellington’s Red Rocks. We helped grind pāua for
fritters. We trawled for trout on Lake Taupō, wandered up ice-clear streams and
learned to cast a fly. As teenagers we built hīnaki, baiting the traps with dog
bones before dropping them into the stream over the road. My last fishing trip
was also my Dad’s last one: as the dementia set in, we chartered a boat and he
pulled in a decent snapper, managing to keep his feet at sea even though he
staggered on land. Lately, my four-year-old has been begging us to take her
fishing. She’d love it just as much as I do. I want to watch her face when she
feels that first bite, when she sees her fish skitter to the surface, furious. I
keep saying no. Recreational fishing, I’m told, is the third rail. You don’t
touch it unless you want to hack off a large and vocal demographic: the people
who, like me, grew up catching anything and everything. They will fight to
maintain the status quo. But in the Hauraki Gulf, my home patch of sea, the
status quo is dead penguins and snapper with weird, milky flesh—a sign of
starvation. It’s kina barrens and the ghosts of scallop beds and crays; it’s the
age of that destructive, smothering new seaweed, Caulerpa. And yet still, we
hammer this ecosystem: it endures one million recreational fishing trips every
year, according to the Ministry for Primary Industries’ national survey of
recreational fishers. In August, if scientific agencies tick the box they’re
widely tipped to, we’ll officially enter a new epoch: the Anthropocene, an age
defined by the impact of humans on the Earth. Translation: it’s all about us.
Our systems and choices and activities—our weekend fishing trips—aggregated.
Many of the choices we’re faced with now cut close to the bone. Fishing is a
literal line between a person and the vast natural world beneath the sea. For
many it’s a rope, woven generations strong. But the graphic on page 18 shows the
way we’re fishing now—at scale. Everywhere. Notably, it doesn’t provide the
whole picture, missing vessels that stick close to shore, and those smaller than
about 15 metres. That is, it’s missing most recreational fishers. But they’re
there. For me, it’s time to find new ways of engaging with the sea. I’ve been
tossing up buying a little dinghy. We could potter from beach to beach, swim,
explore rock pools. And I’ve been thinking about the very best day of my
blessed, fishy childhood. Because it was not spent pulling fish out of water.
Instead, we went to them: snorkelling, on the Great Barrier Reef. I remember the
shock when I put my face in—the colour, the coral. I felt like I’d swum into my
favourite jigsaw puzzle, a place of swarming life and diversity and abundance,
and I never wanted it to end.

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Viewfinder


A MEDITATION

Our trees, through the steady lens of German photographer Dirk Nayhauss.

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Geo News


DEATH OF A TITAN

This summer, New Zealand photographer Rob Suisted was working as a polar guide
on a trip to Antarctica. Off the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula the ship
approached A23a—the largest iceberg in the world (for now). “You look at this
thing and you can only see a fraction of it, both in its vastness and its depth.
It just defies comprehension,” Suisted says. A23a is 280 metres thick, weighs a
trillion tonnes, and sprawls across 3900 square kilometres—three-quarters the
size of the entire Auckland region. When giants like this throw their weight
around, they transform the surrounding seas: they generate currents, change the
water’s salinity, smash up icy coastlines, gouge the seabed, and even fertilise
the ocean with iron from the rock dust they carry. This particular berg began
its journey in 1986, splitting from the Antarctic continent then quickly running
adrift in the Weddell Sea. Forty years of melting shrunk it enough to wriggle
free, and it’s now drifting north into the comparatively warmer waters of the
Southern Ocean—where “it’s in its death throes”, says Suisted. Strange arches
and caves are forming as it decays at the mercy of the currents and the sun,
fated to dwindle away from behemoth to nothing.

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Geo News


EYES IN THE SKY

Modern vessels bristle with advanced navigation and communication equipment, and
yet human activity in our seas is not well quantified, largely because the
location data is shared privately rather than publicly, or not broadcast at all.
This makes it hard to understand the impact of fishing, transport and energy
sectors on the environment, and indeed on the expansion of the two
trillion-dollar blue economy. To understand the movements of these “dark
vessels”, researchers from Global Fishing Watch analysed two million gigabytes
of satellite data using three deep-learning models to recognise fishing vessels
and compared it with the GPS positions from 53 billion public AIS messages. The
NGO discovered that three-quarters of the world’s fishing vessels were not being
publicly tracked, including in New Zealand waters. The data shows the true
distribution of fishing effort in our oceans for the first time—critical
information as the world increasingly relies on the ocean for food, trade and
energy. “Transparency is essential for the sustainability of fisheries. Making
information about the ocean and vessel activity available to those it affects
can help bolster management,” says Fernando Paolo, lead author of the study.
Fishing vessels that are not publicly tracked are not necessarily fishing
illegally, and industrial fishing vessels may have good, yet private, monitoring
systems in place, says Paolo, “but the ocean is a shared resource, and the
knowledge around it needs to be shared as well”


TRENDING


History

ANNIHILATION


Geography

MANAPOURI DAMNING THE DAM


Science & Environment

GLOW IT UP


Society

A SOVEREIGN ACT


Science & Environment

EYES IN THE SKY


Society

THE MEANING OF MANA


Living World

THE SONAR TRAP


Science & Environment

THE BLACK AND THE GREEN


Geography

HUIA, THE SACRED BIRD


Geography

THE ROCKS OF CASTLE HILL


Read more


HOW AN OLD BRITISH LAW MAY HOLD NEW ZEALAND'S BIGGEST POLLUTERS TO ACCOUNT

Seven companies representing a third of New Zealand’s carbon emissions will
defend their impact on the environment, in a case brought by Māori activist Mike
Smith—with help from a 19th-century ruling on Birmingham sewage.

Read more
Profile


EATING UP

To help her people thrive, health scientist Amy Maslen-Miller first wants to
give them a seat at the table.


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Science & Environment


THE STUFF OF LIFE

There are places in our seas where the great, whirring cogs of the world hold
still. Where the process of decay pauses—for your lifetime, for your children’s,
longer—and carbon sleeps, tucked safely away in the sludge. In New Zealand these
places are the fiords, the ocean deeps, and the spongy, muddy fringes of our
coastlines. And we’re only just beginning to understand them.


Read more
Geo News


GOBBLEDY-CHOOK

What does a happy chicken sound like? How about a hangry one? Researchers in
Australia have found that most humans are actually pretty good at clocking the
mood a chicken is in—simply by listening. “We believe this demonstrates some
intuitive ability in humans to recognise the emotional state of another species
based on the sound they make. It’s something inherent,” says veterinary
epidemiologist Joerg Henning, of the University of Queensland. “This was the
biggest surprise.” (For more on chickens and their people, see feature page 50.)
The study involved recruiting around 170 people online, then sending them
recordings of four different types of call. Some were made by excited chickens
that knew they were about to get yummy mealworms or a dust bath. Other chickens
weren’t getting any treat-incoming signals—it’s fair to say they were feeling a
bit flat. Around two-thirds of the time, the humans gauged the chickens’ moods
correctly. Henning hopes the research might be applicable to industrial chicken
farming: that one day, AI systems might be able to monitor the birds’ welfare
via their vocalisations. Henning keeps chickens in his own backyard. He swears
he doesn’t talk to them. But he does understand them. “I know when a goanna is
near because [the chickens] make distress sounds. I try to rush there and get
the eggs before the goanna eats them.”

Read more
History


ANNIHILATION

Fifty years ago, the government was burning swathes of native forest, using
napalm as an accelerant. But under one particular forest was a hill, and under
that hill was a system of caves filled with the bones of the dead: moa, giant
eagles, tiny songbirds. If the forest went, the fossils would go, too.

Read more
Geo News


THE SONAR TRAP

Every time there’s a stranding—especially when dozens of whales or dolphins run
aground, such as in Mahia last month—we mourn, and wonder what drives the
phenomenon. Scientists can’t answer that with certainty yet: strandings are
ethically, logistically and financially tricky to study. But in general, there
are a few key theories. Cetaceans can get into trouble while fleeing predators,
or hunting in the shallows. Rough seas, dirty water, and loud noises can
interfere with their hearing and vision. Sometimes, sick or dying whales are
drawn to calm coastlines, and in groups with strong social bonds, entire pods
may stick by the sick animals, even at the cost of their own lives. In a few
locations (although not Mahia) it’s thought to be simply the shape of the sea
floor that’s the problem. Along with their other senses, toothed whales and
dolphins use echolocation to navigate. Bays with long, shallow, gradually
falling sandy bottoms (like Farewell Spit in Golden Bay/Mohua, or Mason Bay in
Stewart Island/Rakiura)  are thought to be so featureless that the animals’
sonar signals resonate unchecked into the distance, as they would in open water.
“They’re not getting the information they would get in a rocky or steep-slope
environment,” says Auckland University marine biologist Rochelle Constantine.
“They don’t realise they’re getting into shallow water.” Then, when the tide
turns, it turns fast—and the group get stuck.


Read more
Living World


BA-GERK!

Driven partly by egg prices but also, surely, by the sheer joy of keeping
chickens, Gallus gallus domesticus is really having a moment.

Read more
Geo News


A TUNE-UP

Noise has a “tangible impact” on soil, improving decomposition and helping fungi
grow faster, new research finds. Jake Robinson, a microbial ecologist from
Flinders University in South Australia, buried dry teabags in pots of compost,
then put the pots in soundproof, temperature-controlled rooms. Every day for two
weeks, he played an eight-hour track; designed to muffle tinnitus, it sounds
like a cicada stuck on “rasp”, with no variation. But it worked. In the pots
exposed to the noise, the teabags bulged with fungal growth. More precise
measures showed the same result: sound made for healthier soil. In a similar
experiment, sound also boosted Trichoderma harzianum, a fungus that helps
improve plant growth. The mechanism is not yet clear, but Robinson writes that
the finding “paves the way” to using sound as a tool to help restore ecosystems,
as well as in agriculture.

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Just so


GLOW IT UP

Plants can do it. Fish can do it. Worms can do it. Even single-celled plankton
can do it. Why does so much of the natural world get to glow in the dark?

Read more
Science & Environment


A KIND OF MAGIC

Bacterium or blue whale, every living thing leaves a trace. Now we have a tool
that can find that trace, in soil, in water—even in the air—and it’s changing
the way we do science.

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Partner Content


OUR THREE-DIMENSIONAL CLIMATE CHALLENGE

To fix the climate problem, New Zealand needs to remove the equivalent of 43.5
megatonnes of carbon dioxide between 2026 and 2030. It will require both
reducing emissions and offsetting the balance with permanent forests says Ekos
founder Sean Weaver.

Read more
Geography


AFTER GABRIELLE, VOLUNTEERS ARE SALVAGING HOMES AND LIVES

Twelve months on from Cyclone Gabrielle, many people are still fighting to
return home. On February 14, 2023, floodwaters filled their houses with mud and
destroyed possessions, memories, and livelihoods. Survivors were left virtually
on their own to tackle the massive clean-up job—until a network of volunteers
began digging out houses and supporting them through the trauma, forging
unexpected connections along the way.

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Books


SIX-LEGGED GHOSTS: THE INSECTS OF AOTEAROA

Lily Duval, Canterbury University Press, $55

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Books


FEIJOA: A STORY OF OBSESSION AND BELONGING

Kate Evans, Moa Press, $39.99

Read more
History


PIPE DREAMS

The fetid origin story of Wellington’s struggling sewerage system.

Read more
In the field


HOME FIRES

In the early 1980s, officials were deliberately burning native forest on the
West Coast—clearing the way for pine. Plenty of people saw sense in that: jobs
for their kids, when the pine matured. Others were horrified. Presumably hoping
to generate terrific images of the fires, the Buller Conservation Group
announced a photography competition. Dana Bradley, then around 25, pricked his
ears up. He wasn’t exactly a greenie, but processing massive old-man rimu at the
Karamea Sawmill made him feel “like a right piece of shit”. He remembers the
taste of the sap that sprayed his face; the sting in his eyes; the planks as
wide as his wingspan. There was a burnoff booked for a forest near Seddonville,
a patch he knew well. “Police closed the road off,” he says. “They didn’t want
us near it.” But Bradley snuck in along an overgrown mining road, shooting the
smouldering frame on page 87. Images from the competition were eventually
gifted, apparently with few details attached, to the National Library; we’ve
published some of them in our feature on page 84. We weren’t able to track down
the photographers, who were not named. If you recognise an image, please get in
touch.

Read more
In the field


OH, THE PLACES YOU’LL GO

Two pieces in this magazine were put together on Te Araroa, the walking track
that stretches the length of New Zealand. German photographer Dirk Nayhauss hit
the trail in 2022 and into 2023, documenting trees for the photo essay on page
10. And this summer, for the blue carbon feature on page 32, journalist Naomi
Arnold wrote about seagrass regeneration, popping into public libraries to work
as she walked from Bluff to Arrowtown. “It was the windiest month in Southland
since 1970,” she says. “A lot of Oreti Beach sand ended up embedded in my face.”

Read more
In the field


MUCKRAKING

Writer and editor Rachel Morris grew up in Hawke’s Bay, and with photographer
Lottie Hedley spent two months reporting the feature on the cyclone clean-up
(page 64). A lot of that time was spent alongside the volunteers she writes
about, helping to clear the endless silt. The work was dirty, dusty,
strenuous—and deeply rewarding. Being able to help the owners finally move
forward with their lives was “a huge antidote to the heaviness”.




NEWS


Geography

DEATH OF A TITAN


Science & Environment

EYES IN THE SKY


Living World

GOBBLEDY-CHOOK


Living World

THE SONAR TRAP


Living World

A TUNE-UP

More News stories


OPINION


Editorial

GONE FISHING


Editorial

FORWARD MARCH


Editorial

INTO THE BLUE


Editorial

THERE IS ONLY ONE STORY


Viewpoint

A TOE ON THE START LINE

More Opinion stories


OUTDOORS


Great Walks

IVORY LAKE HUT


Partner Content

SHUTES HUT


Great Walks

TUNNEL CREEK HUT


Outdoors

THE SWIM OF HER LIFE


Cycle Trails

LAKE DUNSTAN TRAIL

More Outdoors stories
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