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MATT THE LIST - ARCHIVES

Welcome to Matt The Past. For more recent posts from Matt The List, head to my
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MONDAY 7 MARCH 2016


BERBER & Q BRUNCH - GALLEY - 10 RECENT EATS


We've come to the end of another 365 days of Matt The List (on Feb 23rd) that
saw me reach over 400 new food & drink stops across 5 countries. I haven't
written as often as I would have liked, but photography has taken over somewhat,
and if the popularity of Instagram is anything to go by, people don't read
anymore anyway. Is anyone even reading this? Hi Dad.


For what it's worth, I've eaten some rather delicious things of late from all
corners of London's international, eclectic dining scene. Let's start off in
Haggerston.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Berber & Q - Middle Eastern & North African BBQ - Haggerston |





It takes something special to get me out of South West London for brunch.
Something like Berber & Q, Josh Katz's magnificent Middle Eastern barbecue mecca
in Haggerston. Now, you should go along for the full dinner experience so that
you can gorge on cauliflower shawarma to your heart's content, but as it's one
of those no reservations jobbies, brunch is a less stressful option. Walking in
at 12pm on a Sunday, our group of three was seated instantly, with room to
spare.


The must order dish is The Full Israeli (for 2) - a seemingly endless tray
of warm pitta, hummus, squash tahini, honeyed feta, Israeli salad, boiled eggs,
avocado, tahini with za'atar, roasted beets, mixed olives, and two dessert pots
of yoghurt & date syrup, plus Cay tea or Turkish coffee. It's £12.50 per person,
entirely vegetarian, and worth every penny!


Another veggie winner is the the Daily Pita (£8.50)- a traditional
Israeli sabich with aubergine, pickled red onion, tahini, zhoug and herbs. In
fact, Berber & Q brunch is a mostly meat-free affair, though in a couple of
cases (The Turkish Eggs and the Green Shakshuka) sucuk sausage can be added.


Our third and final plate was the Chicken Sofrito Hash (£9.50), a smartly
seasoned tin pan of chicken thighs, fried eggs, potato, swede, carrot, and
rosemary. It was comforting and moreish, but severely lacking in chicken - there
was crispy skin galore though if that's your thing.


All in all, it was a super brunch - well worth the epic journey on our beloved
orange line. If you like the look of it, you should also add The Good Egg and
Street Kitchen London Fields in the same part of town to your to-do list.



















Brunch at Berber & Q - www.berberandq.com


Sat-Sun 11am-3pm | Arch 338 Acton Mews, E8 4EA


Click here for more photos from Berber & Q on Flickr


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Galley - Islington |




There are worse ways to start the week than with an indulgent three course lunch
at Galley, Islington's seafood-centric new eatery from Marcel Grzyb (head chef
at Randall & Aubin for 10 years) and stylist sister Oriana Robb.


Small and large plates can be translated as starters and mains, or you can go
down a sharing route if you wish. Dad The List and I did a little of both and
started off with three rather fine entrées. 


- Hand Dived In-Shell Scottish Scallops with carrot, cardamom purée, toasted
hazelnuts - £9
- Hereford Beef Carpaccio with wild mushrooms, beef jelly, pistachio, parmesan -
£10
- Octopus & Chorizo a la plancha with white bean purée, smoked garlic pesto - £9


In all three cases, the meat and fish were beautifully and subtly enhanced by
the accompanying ingredients. Another restaurant might bungle such busy plates
but here everything worked, from the soupy carrot and cardamom purée, to the
beef jelly flavour bombs. Nine more promising small plates lie in wait for a
return visit.










An equally long list of mains forced us in to more tough decisions, but we
soldiered on. Lobster Pappardelle with heritage tomatoes and Jerusalem artichoke
(£19) was superbly seasoned and executed. I would order it again and again
without a second look at the menu. Most of the lobster was already out and about
but you are left to do a little excavation yourself before you tuck in.
Elsewhere, Pan-fried Sea Bass with gnocchi, peas, courgettes, wild mushrooms,
and truffle oil (£19.50) received the thumbs up from Dad The List in between
spoonfuls.





One of my father's only conditions for eating out is that the dessert menu is up
to scratch. Galley seriously delivered with two fabulous finales. The Lavender &
Raspberry Crème Brûlée was pleasantly light, and the lavender came through well
without overpowering the raspberry. Then came the Salted Caramel Tart, an
outrageous calorific monster served with green tea ice cream, chilli & hazelnut.
Serious stuff, as you can see below.


Alternatively, you could go down a more alcoholic route with one of their
Dessert Cocktails - Coco Popping with coco pops-infused Buffalo Trace bourbon,
chocolate bitters and double cream sounds like a winner to me.








We rolled back on to Upper Street and attempted to salvage what was left of the
day. There are better value meals to be had in the area (Oldroyd and Black Axe
Mangal spring to mind), but if you want to splash out a little (hah!), Galley is
the perfect place to drop anchor.


12pm-12am Mon-Fri | 11am-12am Sat-Sun


Galley - www.galleylondon.co.uk


105-106 Upper Street, N1 1QN


Click here for more photos from Galley on Flickr


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

Now for a slightly speedier round-up of ten more international eats...
 

| Campania & Jones - Southern Italian - Hoxton |


Campania & Jones is a charming Italian café and restaurant just off Columbia
Road with an enticing menu and a magical, rustic atmosphere. The gnocchi with
'nduja was just what the doctor ordered - think more private healthcare than NHS
at their prices though.

Lengthen your stay in the area with a trip to Lily Vanilli Bakery (Sundays
only), Sager & Wilde, and Birdcage, and return for meals at Brawn and The
Marksman.


Click here for more photos from Campania & Jones on Flickr






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  | Carousel - Seasonal / Residencies - Marylebone |


Carousel is known for it's rotating residencies in the evening (hence the name),
but don't forget about their lunch offering. From 12pm-3pm, Tuesday-Saturday,
the regular kitchen team headed up by Ollie Templeton serve up "Lunch by
Carousel", a smart selection of seasonal dishes at ridiculously low prices. A
salad of raf tomatoes, calcots, feta and bread was super fresh and a steal at
£4, whilst a generous portion of grilled onglet steak, with salt baked potatoes
and aioli, should surely have cost more than £10.50.

There were several more hits (see full Flickr album here) including a
heart-stopping dessert of cream-filled churros with dulce de leche and dried
raspberries, not to mention the magnificent complimentary bread and oil.
Outstanding from start to finish.








-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Donostia Social Club - Basque - Brixton |



One of my favourite openings of last year now has the Mum The List seal of
approval too. Head over at opening time on a Saturday (12pm) to get yourself a
prime seat in Donostia Social Club's shipping container conversion in Pop
Brixton. Super specials on our visit included membrillo glazed duck with carrot
purée, and a warm salad of beets, goat's cheese and walnut.

Across the way, Kricket have just launched a Sunday brunch menu including a goan
sausage roll that has been doing the instarounds. If you want a post lunch
beverage in Pop Brixton, head to Brixton Port Authority, a remarkably
well-stocked and cosy container on the ground floor.


Click here for more photos from Donostia Social Club on Flickr








-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Soif - French - Battersea |



Soif is part of a wonderful group of bistros and wine bars that also
boasts Terroirs (Charing Cross), Toast E.D. (Dulwich), and to some extent, Brawn
(Hoxton). Highlights from a recent meal included a salad of roasted carrots,
gorgonzola and spiced hazelnuts, a generous main of duck breast with braised
lentils, and a magnificent crémet nantais (on its way to being cheesecake) with
yorkshire rhubarb and pistachios.

To drink nearby, you've got more wine if you need it at The Humble Grape, craft
beers at Brewdog, and cocktails at King of Ladies Man and Southsider.


Click here for more photos from Soif on Facebook






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Nanban - Japanese Fusion - Brixton |



Former Masterchef winner Tim Anderson finally opened Nanban, a Japanese soul
food joint in Brixton, towards the end of 2015 after building up a loyal
following at various popups, residencies and street food markets.

You can't go wrong with the ramen - from the curry goat tsukemen with seafood
sawdust, to the miyazaki ramen with "yuzu-kosho schmaltz". It's hard to imagine
ordering a noodle soup-less main, but I have heard good things about the sasebo
burger with tea egg mayo and gochujang burger sauce. We also devoured several
enjoyable small plates - the standout was Yaki-Imo, a baked sweet potato with
ponzu butter and black sesame salt. Finish off with Japanese Mr.Whippy, or a
trio of refreshing, eye-catching mochi ice balls.


Just down the road, Sovereign Loss and Three Eight Four are both top options for
cocktails, and Unit Sixteen and Seven at Brixton are also worth a look when
Market Row is open.


Click here for more photos from Nanban on Tumblr









-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Zelman Meats - Steak - Soho |



Despite being slap bang in the middle of Soho, secluded St.Anne's Court is not
the ideal spot to open a bar / restaurant on account of the surprising lack of
footfall. Goodman's highly rated fish foray Rex & Mariano found this out the
hard way, but they moved quickly and came up with Zelman Meats in its place. And
it's a runaway hit.


There's no printed menu, they just cook a load of meat, offer it to you by
weight, and throw in a few enticing sides like black truffle and parmesan chips,
or roasted cauliflower with paprika, cumin, hummus, black sesame and
pomegranate. The meatiness of the picanha, chateaubriand, and "dirty steak" cuts
wasn't particularly intense, but you'll want to smother everything in their
excellent chimichurri anyway. The smoked short ribs were top notch - N.B. the
ones pictured below are "small"! 


Be warned - prices rack up pretty quickly. A smarter option might be to drop by
at lunch for a short rib sandwich, or on Sundays for a competitively priced
roast. There's also good value to be found at Blacklock and Flat Iron nearby.


Zelman boasts an attractive bar (with some comfortable booths ideal for dining
too), but if you want to move on for drinks, you aren't short of options -
Milroy's, El Camion, Shotgun, Bar Termini, and The Blind Pig should be enough to
get you started.


Click here for more photos from Zelman Meats on Flickr












-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Sambal Shiok - Malaysian - Popup |


At the start of the year, modern Malaysian Mandy and her Sambal Shiok street
food crew were given shelter from the cold along with the kitchen keys to
Salvation in Noodles (Finsbury Park) for a few weeks. In a notoriously quiet
part of the year for the food and drink scene, every Londoner with an Instagram
account (myself included) seemed to be lapping up Mandy's spicy, comforting
laksa bowls, and stuffing their faces with signature beef rendang and ayam
goreng - crunchy lemongrass chicken poppers with an awesome peanut sauce.


They have just announced their next residency - an exciting three month takeover
of The Sun & 13 Cantons in Soho, starting on March 29th. N.B. The extremely
popular Asma Khan and her "Darjeeling Express" train will be leaving the station
on March 19th.


In the meantime, you can find Sambal Shiok at Street Food Union (Fri 11am-2pm)
in Soho, and the Southbank Centre Food Market (Fri-Sun from 11am). That said,
check their Twitter account here for the latest info.


Click here for more photos from the Sambal Shiok popup on Facebook











-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Salvation in Noodles - Vietnamese - Finsbury Park / Dalston |


After rocking up at Salvation in Noodles for the Malaysian Sambal Shiok popup
(see above), it would have been rude not to return for their regular Vietnamese
dishes. After a boozy afternoon at Beavertown Brewery's birthday party (see
photos here), we were in serious need of nourishment, and owner Colin's
comforting bowls of pho noodle soup and bun cha gio noodle salad hit the spot. I
can also vouch for the goi cuon summer rolls, the pork and water chestnut
dumplings, and the crispy phu quoc wings. Go and see them in Finsbury Park or
Dalston.


Click here for more photos from Salvation in Noodles on Facebook





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Fowl Mouths - Japanese Fusion - Popup |


If you are quick, you can still catch the Fowl Mouths residency at The King &
Co. in Clapham Common, as it's just been extended til the end of March. Chef
Melissa has hasn't looked back since her first Japanese comfort food supper club
in Feb of last year, and she's clearly been a hit in SW4. 


I particularly enjoyed her teriyaki chicken wings, the pumpkin korokke scotch
egg, and a larger plate of marinated ponzu steak with steamed rice. The brunch
specials (Sat-Sun 12-4pm) have been calling out to me from Instagram. P.S. The
King & Co. beer selection is also worth sticking around for.


Click here for more photos from Fowl Mouths popup on Facebook








-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

| Street Feast Hawker House - Canada Water |



Last but not least, I finally made it to Street Feast's indoor outpost in Canada
Water after hearing great things. Once again, they've turned an ordinary, empty
space into something wonderful, even if it doesn't quite have Model Market's
personality or Dalston Yard's atmosphere. It's open every Fri & Sat, from 5pm
until midnight (£3 after 7pm, free entry before), with 14 street food traders
and nine bars set over two floors to keep you busy. 


Breddos Tacos, Smokestak, Kimchinary and Prawnography are a strong place to
start. On the booze front, be sure to swing by the Kamm & Sons Kitchen for a
Grosvenor, and the Milk & Honey Mercury Lounge for a Penicillin, or look for The
86 bar through a secret door.

Click here for more photos from Hawker House on Flickr








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Labels: berber and q, brunch, campania, carousel, donostia social club, flickr,
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salvation in noodles, sambal shiok, soif, street feast, zelman meats



FRIDAY 26 FEBRUARY 2016


BRUNCH O'CLOCK


On account of my bizarre work "schedule", I actually struggle to make it out for
food most weekends during that magical window of opportunity, but I have managed
to squeeze in a few breakfast-lunch hybrids recently. Here's some inspiration
for the weekend ahead. Ready, set. BRUNCH.


Warning : This post contains strong coffee and scenes of an eggporn nature...


------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

Salon, Brixton - The One That Takes Reservations







Surely not, right? No one takes reservations anymore. ESPECIALLY for brunch.
Alright then, if you say so - see you tomorrow at 10.45 - "Isn't that still
breakfast time?" (Flatmate M).


And just like that, the wait for a table was gone. Five of us rocked up to the
lovely Salon in Brixton's Market Row on a Saturday morning for a spot of brunch
ahead of an afternoon at Beavertown Brewery's birthday party - Flickr photos
here.


In the evenings (Tue-Sat), Salon has a serious set menuto get stuck in to
(£33/head at the time of writing) . The most recent list I saw had such delights
as burata with blood orange, bitter leaves and hazelnuts and scallop with
'nduja, burnt apple, and grilled leek. Seasonal and inventive is their thing,
and this also applies to their wonderful, affordable brunch menu.


Here's what you should look out for:


- Warm banana bread, hazelnut ganache - £3.50
- Smashed avo on toast, super seeds & pickled chilli with smoked pig's cheek
lardons - £6.50
- Scrambled eggs & 'nduja on toast - £6.50
- Roast mushrooms, pickled shallots & cow's curd on toast - £7.50
- Three cheese cornbread, shredded ham hock, chipotlé slaw, poached duck egg -
£9


If you ask nicely, they might just bring you some of their rather excellent
sourdough doughnuts too...


Warm banana bread, hazelnut ganache - £3.50




Three cheese cornbread, shredded ham hock, chipotlé slaw, poached duck egg - £9




Three cheese cornbread, shredded ham hock, chipotlé slaw, poached duck egg - £9




Scrambled eggs & 'nduja on toast - £6.50




Smashed avo on toast, super seeds & pickled chilli with smoked pig's cheek
lardons - £6.50




Smashed avo on toast, super seeds & pickled chilli with smoked pig's cheek
lardons - £6.50




Salon's sourdough doughnuts




Sourdough doughnuts and flat whites



We had a roomy table to ourselves, we didn't feel rushed, portions were
generous, and everything was under a tenner. Bloody Marys are £5.50 compared to
£15 at Duck & Waffle. What's the catch? 


...


No catch. Salon is the real brunch deal. I even went back the following week for
more banana bread and doughnuts. Don't miss the 'nduja scrambled eggs - they're
something else.


Did I mention that you can book? Call ahead on 02075019152 if you still remember
how to ring people from your smartphone.


Salon - www.salonbrixton.co.uk


18 Market Row, Brixton, SW9 8LD


Photos on Flickr - click here


--------------------------------------------------------
 

Fields, Clapham Common - The One That's Literally In A Field





Fields is a funny little place, standing all alone on Clapham Common, like the
poor kid that's been left behind after team captains have chosen their players.
Except that on this occasion, they foolishly overlooked Lionel Messi, for there
is some magical stuff going on in this tiny kitchen from the folk behind the
outrageously popular Milk in Balham (another super brunch spot).


The menu is ever changing, but one dish that is always bound to be on there is
their outstanding plate of poached eggs with Workshop Coffee's Cult of Done
espresso hollandaise, and drycure bacon (or Hansen & Lydersen salmon) - one of
the finest brunch dishes in the capital. There will also be a fair few smoked
ingredients, as they do a lot of smoking on-site.


Here are some enticing examples from my most recent visit:


- Sprouted grain granola, suffolk yoghurt, smoked cos apple, cardamom, filo -
£7.50
- Sourdough croque madame, gloucester old spot ham, smoked egg yolk, emmental -
£9.50
- Carribean doubles, chickpea, plantain, tamarind ketchup, cucumber pickle - £8
- Ghetto omelette, seared wild mushrooms, burnt brie, black garlic marjoram -
£9.20
- Masa breakfast taco, grilled octopus, smoked pumpkin mayo, spring green slawo
- £9.20
- Peat-smoked lardy cake - £2.50 // - Pandan softserve & toffee popcorn - £3



Sourdough croque madame, gloucester old spot ham, smoked egg yolk, emmental -
£9.50




Sourdough croque madame, gloucester old spot ham, smoked egg yolk, emmental -
£9.50




Poached eggs with cult of done espresso hollandaise & drycure bacon - £8.50




Poached eggs with cult of done espresso hollandaise & drycure bacon - £8.50




Pandan softserve & toffee popcorn - £3



Fields is currently only open Friday-Sunday, from 9am-5pm (4pm on Friday),
but check the website before you go to be safe. Wrap up warm, there's more space
outdoors than in, and it's not the cosiest of cafés. But you'd be a fool to skip
it on those grounds.


Fields - www.fieldscafe.com


2 Rookery Road, Clapham Common, SW4 9DD


Photos on Flickr - click here


--------------------------------------------------------
 

Flour To The People, Battersea - The One At The End Of My Road





No matter what I throw at you, your ideal brunch spot is probably still the one
at the end of your road, right? In my case, that's Flour To The People on
Battersea Park Road, a snug sourdough bakery and brunch café with see-through
toasters on every table. 


If you want your money to go a long way, order Toast To The People - for £6.95,
you have access to an endless supply of freshly baked sourdough, plus two sides,
and homemade spreads. Alternatively, I can recommend the Eggs Benedict-ish that
involves bacon, eggs, hollandaise and their own sourdough crumpets, and the Avo
& Egg Slam - smashed avo, sweet chilli, lime, feta, and two poached eggs on
sourdough. Both dishes are pictured below.



Avo & Egg Slam - smashed avocado with sweet chilli, lime, feta & two poached
eggs on sourdough - £9.90




Eggs Benedict-ish - sourdough crumpets, 2 eggs, bacon & house made hollandaise -
£8.75



Tie it in with a visit to Park Road Kitchen, Draft House Westbridge, Battersea
Flower Station, and La Moka Café to make the most of an awkward trip. Swing by
Battersea Park for a round of minigolf afterwards too.  If you are still in the
area come the evening, Flour To The People have just started serving sourdough
pizzas from 5pm-10pm. Read more here.


Flour To The People - www.flour2people.com


Breakfast / brunch served everyday from 8am


573 Battersea Park Road, Battersea, SW11 3BJ

Photos on Flickr - click here


--------------------------------------------------------


Here's a few more thoughts from my back catalogue / to-do list...


If you want to start early, get over to Dishoom from 8am on weekdays and 9am on
weekends for their bacon naan rolls and chai.  Pimlico Fresh's french toast is
second to none, and they open at 7.30am on weekdays (9am on weekends). Also,
Ember Yard & Dehesa in Soho have just launched an enticing breakfast menu - read
more here. Of course, Duck and Waffle is there for you at all hours!



Eggporn at Duck & Waffle



If you can make it through to 12pm, you should also get yourself over to
Brunswick House in Vauxhall for their "weekend lunch", or Donostia Social Club
in Pop Brixton as it opens, before the crowds descend.



Brunswick House


Donostia Social Club on Flickr



Top of my to-do list is The Good Egg in Stoke Newington. After a couple of
successful years on the street food & popup scene, Joel Braham, Alex Coppard &
co. successfully crowdfunded and opened an all-day Jewish soul food spot on
Church Street. Pretty ashamed I haven't been in to say hello yet! 


Elsewhere, exciting brunch menus have appeared at Berber & Q, The Other Room,
Shotgun. Street Kitchen London Fields, Kricket, and more. 


If you are more of a lie-in and Sunday roast fan, then look no further than
Blacklock and Zelman Meats in Soho. Sorted.



Zelman Meats photos on Flickr



Happy eating!


========================================


P.S. You may have noticed the word Flickr flying around. I've just started
putting photos up there, and I will be updating it most days so please check it
out here, and follow me if you have a Flickr account!



Crater Lake, Oregon


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