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LINEN OR COTTON: WHICH FABRIC KEEPS YOU COOLER IN STICKY SUMMER HEAT?

As the summer heats up, we asked three fabric scientists to explain why linen
keeps our bodies cooler than cotton.

By Nicolás Rivero
June 8, 2024 at 7:00 a.m. EDT

Tourists in the Rome sun this month. (Alessandro Di Meo/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock)

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Key takeaways

Summary is AI-generated, newsroom-reviewed.

 * Linen keeps you cooler than cotton on hot days.
 * Allows better moisture evaporation and airflow.
 * Drawbacks are linen is stiffer and wrinkles more easily.

Did our AI help? Share your thoughts.

A white cotton T-shirt and a linen button-down are both classic summer looks.
But which of these fabrics will keep you cooler on a hot, humid day?

We spoke to three textile scientists who study fabrics and fibers on a molecular
level to get a definitive, scientific answer about the most comfortable clothing
material for hanging out on a summer afternoon. Their unanimous verdict: Linen
will keep you cooler.



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All three scientists agreed that if you’re working or exercising in the sun,
you’d be better off in synthetic fabrics such as polyester that have been
chemically treated to wick sweat away from your skin as fast as possible. But if
athletic wear isn’t an option, linen offers the best combination of moisture
removal and airflow.

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“Linen is much better in terms of providing comfort,” said Sundaresan Jayaraman,
a professor of material science and engineering at the Georgia Institute of
Technology. “People worry about perfect storms. Linen is what I would call a
positive storm because everything is nicely coming together.”

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MOISTURE

When it’s hot out, your body’s main tool for cooling itself down is sweating. As
sweat evaporates from your skin, it carries away heat. So in the summer, it’s
important to wear a fabric that helps your body get rid of moisture.

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“Your comfort is determined by how much body moisture is being released,” said
Yiqi Yang, a professor of textile science at the University of Nebraska at
Lincoln.

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YOUR COOLEST SUMMER

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 * How to pick a decent rosé
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You want a fabric that’s absorbent enough to pull moisture away from your skin,
but also allows the water to evaporate into the air. Cotton and linen are both
very absorbent — but cotton retains water while linen lets it go, according to
Jayaraman.

“If you happen to be walking on a hot, humid day wearing a cotton undershirt, by
the time you get home, the undershirt is completely wet because it is capturing
all the sweat from you, but it does not have the ability to transport the
moisture vapor from your garment to the outside world,” he said. “That’s why you
feel clammy.”

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You can see why cotton and linen behave differently when you put their fibers
under a microscope, said Larissa Marie Shepherd, an assistant professor of fiber
science at Cornell University. Cotton fibers, which come from the fuzzy bolls
that swaddle cotton seeds, look like ribbon and tend to be full of kinks, twists
and bends. Linen fibers, which come from the stems of long, tall flax stalks,
look more like bamboo rods and tend to be straighter and stiffer.

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“The ribbon shape of cotton can trap water more,” Shepherd said. “Flax is
straight, so there’s not as many places for the water to be trapped inside.”

AIRFLOW

Your body also sheds heat when cool air flows over your skin — so on a hot day,
you want to wear a fabric that breathes.

Linen also has an advantage here, Jayaraman says. Its fibers are thicker than
cotton’s, so linen fabrics tend to have a lower thread count and more openings
between fibers. “That means air can more easily pass through,” he said.

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But thread counts can vary widely from garment to garment. Shepherd said you
should judge the fabric for yourself. “If you can see light through it, then
water and air can penetrate through it,” she said.

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Linen’s other big advantage is its stiffness. Rigid linen fibers tend to hold
their shape better than cotton, causing linen clothing to hang away from your
body while cotton clothing tends to cling to your skin. Leaving more space for
air to flow between your clothes and your skin cools you down and helps sweat
evaporate.

THE BOTTOM LINE



While linen is, scientifically, a cooler fabric than cotton, that’s not the only
factor you have to consider when picking out clothes.

For instance, linen’s stiffness — which is so helpful for letting air flow over
your skin — might rub some people the wrong way. “Someone might be more
comfortable with cotton because it feels nicer. It’s a bit softer,” Shepherd
said. “So that comes down to personal preference.”

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Linen’s stiffness also makes it prone to wrinkles, requiring more ironing —
unless you want to go for a rumpled look. “The wrinkles can make a fashion
statement about being a cool guy, pun intended,” Jayaraman said.

“Sometimes the stylish selection goes against comfort. It’s just about what is
more important to you,” Yang said. “But I’m a chemical engineer, so
unfortunately I know nothing about fashion.”



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