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Home House & Components Systems Electrical System


15 AMP VS. 20 AMP OUTLETS: WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

Ally ChildressUpdated: Jul. 20, 2023
sockagphoto/Getty Images


OUTLETS AND RECEPTACLES. WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE? WHICH ONE GOES WHERE? OUR EXPERT
IS HERE TO CLEAR UP THE CONFUSION.

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When I started my electrical apprenticeship, I didn’t know much about amps,
outlets and electrical circuits. I had swapped out a few light fixtures and even
installed a new dishwasher. But when it came to the technical jargon, I was a
little lost.

As a new homeowner, you may likewise be confused by the available choices when
doing electrical repairs and upgrades. One thing that trips people up is the
difference between 15-amp and 20-amp outlets, aka receptacles. They sell both
kinds at home centers and hardware stores, so how do you know which one goes
where?

This guide can help. First, we’ll clear up some terminology. Then we’ll walk you
through the differences and where to use them. Remember, there’s no shame in
asking for help from a licensed electrician (like me!). Your safety is always
paramount.

On This Page

 * Outlet vs. Receptacle
 * What Is an Amp?
 * Receptacle Rating vs. Branch Circuit Rating
 * Differences Between a 15-Amp Receptacle and a 20-Amp Receptacle
 * Here’s When You Need a 15-Amp Receptacle
 * Here’s When You Need a 20-Amp Receptacle


OUTLET VS. RECEPTACLE

Before we get into the differences between 15-amp and 20-amp “outlets,” we need
to agree on some terms.

If you’re reading this, you’re likely talking about the thing on the wall where
you plug in your computer and TV. While colloquially called an outlet, the
device on the wall (or power bar) that receives the plug is actually called a
receptacle.

Receptacles are installed at an outlet, but don’t let this confuse you. This
distinction should help you understand the difference:

 * Outlet: A point on the circuit where electricity is taken to supply
   equipment. Think of an outlet as a location, not a device.
 * Receptacle: A device installed at an outlet for the connection of a plug.
 * Receptacle outlet: An outlet where one or more receptacles is installed.


WHAT IS AN AMP?

Amperes, aka amps, are units of electrical current, which is the organized flow
of electrons through an electrical circuit. It’s these electrons that make our
stuff run, from appliances to motors to lights. Amps describe the rate at which
the electrons move through the circuit.

One common way to visualize an amp is water flowing through a garden hose. The
more you turn on the faucet, the stronger the flow of water. If we wanted to, we
could measure the amount of water that moves past a point on the hose in one
second.

Swap out water in a hose for electricity in a circuit, and you’re describing an
amp. The number of amps a tool, appliance, light and any other electrical device
needs to operate dictates many electrical decisions, from the size of your
circuit breakers to how big of an extension cord to buy.




RECEPTACLE RATING VS. BRANCH CIRCUIT RATING

Another concept that’s important to know before choosing a receptacle is the
difference between the circuit rating and the receptacle rating.

When buying a receptacle, you can’t just match the circuit rating and the
receptacle rating and call it a day. The National Electric Code (NEC) sets out
specific requirements.

Here are some more terms to know:

 * Branch circuit: These are the circuits that “branch” out from the main panel
   and power your home.
 * Branch circuit rating: Describes the amount of current that can safely be
   carried on the circuit. This is determined by the overcurrent protection (aka
   circuit breaker) protecting the circuit.
 * Receptacle rating: Describes the amperage the receptacle itself can handle.

Though our homes have 15-amp and 20-amp branch circuits (and larger ones for
specific appliances), the rating of a receptacle and the rating of a circuit
it’s installed on do not necessarily correspond. We’ll dig into the details
below.


DIFFERENCES BETWEEN A 15-AMP RECEPTACLE AND A 20-AMP RECEPTACLE

The first thing you’ll notice about a 15-amp receptacle and a 20-amp one is the
physical difference.

A 15-amp receptacle looks like the ones you see in your home, at the office and
in public places every day: two vertical slots and one roundish one. (They kind
of look like faces.) A 20-amp receptacle, in contrast, more resembles a face
that’s winking. One of the vertical slots also has a horizontal aspect, like a
sideways “T.”

Why have different shapes? As with many deliberate design choices in the
electrical industry, it’s a safety thing.

Plugs that correspond with 20-amp receptacles have one vertical and one
horizontal blade, and thus cannot fit into a 15-amp receptacle, which lacks the
“T” -shaped slot. This prevents people from plugging in an appliance that’s more
powerful than the 15-amp receptacle and circuit can handle.




HERE’S WHEN YOU NEED A 15-AMP RECEPTACLE

Think about the things you use every day: computers, televisions, vacuum
cleaners, toasters, coffee makers, refrigerators, shop tools and microwaves.
What do the plugs look like?

Unless they’re of the two-prong variety, they’re generally three-prong plugs
with two vertical blades and one round one. Most standard, everyday appliances
found in homes draw less than 15 amps, usually much less.

These common items are compatible with 15-amp or 20-amp circuits. But what about
the receptacle? That depends.

If you have a circuit rated 15 amps, the NEC requires that you use 15-amp
receptacles. Full stop. Fifteen-amp circuits use electrical conductors (aka
wires) that aren’t big enough for appliances that draw more than 15 amps. If you
put 20 amps on a 15-amp circuit, you’ll trip the breaker. It’s also unsafe.

If your circuit is 20 amps, you can install a 15-amp receptacle, but only if you
have multiple receptacles on the same circuit, like the common two-plug
(“duplex”) or four-plug (“quad”) setups you have all over your house. (This is
why you probably have 15-amp receptacles in your kitchen and bathroom, even
though the circuits are 20 amps.)

If this sounds strange, there’s a good reason. Even with multiple receptacles on
a single circuit, it’s unlikely you’ll be plugging in and running everything at
once.

However, if you have a single receptacle on a dedicated, 20-amp circuit —
meaning the circuit’s only designed for one plug and one piece of equipment —
you must use a 20-amp receptacle. Single receptacles dedicated to one appliance
tend to be used for things where it would be problematic if it failed, like a
sump pump, or large refrigerator or freezer.




HERE’S WHEN YOU NEED A 20-AMP RECEPTACLE

Look around your house — how many winking-face receptacles do you see? Probably
not many.

Think about all the plugs in your house, too. Can you remember any of them
having one vertical blade and one horizontal? That number is likely even lower.

That’s because appliances that draw close to 20 amps are rare in regular
residential use. The sump pump and large refrigerators and freezers mentioned
above, window air conditioners, larger shop tools and commercial kitchen
appliances are a few things that might need a 20-amp receptacle.

Sometimes, builders or electricians put in 20-amp receptacles because they’re
sturdy and can accept either a 15-amp or a 20-amp plug. This is OK, if
needlessly expensive, as long as they’re on a 20-amp circuit.

Never put a 20-amp receptacle on a 15-amp circuit. That’s a code violation.

ⓘ








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Originally Published: July 20, 2023




Ally Childress
Ally Childress is a licensed electrician and freelance writer living in Dallas,
Texas.


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