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 * Chapter 1
   
   A HISTORY OF GEMSTONES

 * Chapter 2
   
   TECHNIQUES AND METHODS USED TO TREAT AND ENHANCE GEMSTONES

 * Chapter 3
   
   THE MODERN USE OF GEMSTONES

 * Chapter 4
   
   USEFUL LINKS


UNEARTHING THE GEMS OF TIME: A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO THE HISTORY & TYPES OF
GEMSTONES

Learn more



IN THIS GUIDE:

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 * Chapter 1
   
   
   A HISTORY OF GEMSTONES
   
   Learn more

 * Chapter 2
   
   
   TECHNIQUES AND METHODS USED TO TREAT AND ENHANCE GEMSTONES
   
   Learn more

 * Chapter 3
   
   
   THE MODERN USE OF GEMSTONES
   
   Learn more

 * Chapter 4
   
   
   USEFUL LINKS
   
   Learn more

Chapter 1


A HISTORY OF GEMSTONES



Gemstones have been a part of human culture for thousands of years. While
empires rise and fall, fashions change and technology continues to evolve, the
alluring draw of colourful, rare and precious gems has remained a constant in
our global society.

Coveted by rulers and common folk alike, gemstones dazzle and delight with their
radiant glow. As far back as the history books can chart, gems have found a
place in the texts and scriptures of countless societies. Let’s track where that
all began, as well as exactly what it is that earns a mineral the title of
gemstone.


WHAT IS A GEMSTONE?

Gemstones are minerals, rocks, or organic matters that have crystalline
properties. Owing to their colourful and iconic look, gems have been used to
adorn clothing and artwork for millenia. Perhaps most common of all, gemstones
are an intrinsic part of both archaic and contemporary jewellery.

This is far from their sole purpose, however. Gemstones can be used to decorate
and add a sense of grandeur to almost any item, with artefacts such as combs,
plates, ceremonial objects and even weapons found covered in them.

While the popular belief is that all gemstones are mined from the ground, this
isn’t always true. Amber and pearl are good examples of gems which possess
immense value but come from sources other than underground.

In total there are believed to be as many as 315 different types of gemstones in
existence. These gems can be found in every colour imaginable, with some even
being classed as “colourless” altogether. These colours are determined by unique
chemical and atomic structures in the genetic makeup of the stone.

Of these 315 gemstones, only four are given the official title of “precious”:

DIAMOND

RUBY

EMERALD

SAPPHIRE

All other gems are categorised as “semi-precious” — although this doesn’t mean
they don’t still carry tremendous financial value. These core four gems are seen
as more valuable because of their quality, rarity and the beauty of their
colour.


ORIGINS OF GEMSTONES

Most gemstones can trace their lineage back millions or billions of years. The
oldest gemstone is believed to be Zircon, whose origins may extend as far back
as 4.4 billion years ago.

Diamonds, by contrast, are ‘just’ 3 billion years old, while sapphires were
formed 150 million years ago. The formation process itself is simple, but can
take years to finalise. Combining immense heat, pressure, time, and mineral
deposits, gems are either created by the cooling of mineral-rich hydrothermal
water, or as a transformational byproduct of rock cultivation in the Earth’s
crust.

It might surprise some to learn that not all gems have their origins on our
planet. Peridot is a lime green crystal which has been found on interstellar
asteroids. Scientists believe the gemstone was created during the events of the
Big Bang — which could make it one of the earliest known substances in the
history of creation.




THE EARLY USES AND MEANING OF GEMSTONES THROUGHOUT TIME

While human history is very new in the wider sphere of time, there have already
been countless examples of gemstones being used throughout the ages by several
cultures. With an importance placed on gems which goes as far back as the
beginning of recorded history, it’s little surprise that they continue to hold a
special place in contemporary society.

Let’s now take a closer look at the lineage of some of the most popular and best
known gemstones, as we delve into their significance and origins.


DIAMOND

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Multi-coloured

RARITY

Precious

POPULAR CUTS

Round brilliant, Cushion, Princess, Emerald, Oval, Pear

Such has been the importance of diamonds through the ages, that in the first
century AD Roman naturalist Pliny would scribe “Diamond is the most valuable,
not only of precious stones, but of all things in this world.”

The first recorded mention of diamonds dates back to India in the 4th century
BCE. These shiny minerals were believed to only exist in India until 1725, when
a small deposit of the gems was found in a pocket in Brazil. Since then, further
discoveries have been made in Australia, Botswana, Canada, China, Congo, Russia
and South Africa.

Perhaps the most defining legacy that diamonds left on the world was the Silk
Road. This trade route from China to India was the centralised transportation
method of gemstones for centuries.

Throughout the ancient world, diamonds were used for a number of purposes,
extending beyond jewellery alone. They also served the practical purpose of a
cutting tool, as well as talismans to ward off evil and provide protection for a
loved one in battle.

The diamond landscape would change forever in 1866, with the discovery of the
world's largest diamond pocket in Kimberley, South Africa. The pocket found here
now accounts for up to 90% of the world’s total distribution.

> The first recorded mention of diamonds dates back to India in the 4th century
> BCE


EMERALD

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Green

RARITY

Precious

POPULAR CUTS

Emerald

In the immortal worlds of Pliny, “nothing greens greener”. As one of the four
core precious gemstones, emerald has long epitomised this particular colour, and
lends its name to several iconic objects and locales. The Emerald Isles
(Ireland), Emerald City (Seattle), and even the Emerald Buddha of Thailand
(which is ironically made of jade) are all world-renowned names which can be
traced back to the mineral.

Incas were amongst the first to bask in the splendour of its green glow, with
jewellery adorned with the precious stone common amongst the wealthy. When
Spanish conquistadors arrived on their shores, the gems were traded away in
favour of precious metals like gold and silver. The traded emeralds would
usually land in the laps of European and Asian royalty, who believed that, if
placed under the tongue, the stone would grant them protection against evil
spells and help them see the future.

Other symbolic traditions associate emerald as a cure for diseases like cholera
and malaria, while some believed it had the power to reveal the legitimacy of a
lover’s oath. In modern culture emerald has become synonymous with 35th wedding
anniversaries.

The first known gems were mined in Egypt from at least 330 BCE. Cleopatra
herself was even said to have a penchant for them. The three major sources of
emerald mining today are Zambia, Colombia and Brazil.

> Incas were amongst the first to bask in the splendour of its green glow, with
> jewellery adorned with the precious stone


RUBY

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Red

RARITY

Precious

POPULAR CUTS

Cushion and Oval

Defined by their fiery red glow, rubies are another of the core four gemstones
which have played a special role in several cultures throughout the ages. The
ancient language of Sanskrit refers to ruby as ratnaraj, or ‘king of precious
stones.’ This association with royalty transcends most cultures — ancient Hindus
believed offering high-quality rubies to the god Krishna would see one
reincarnated as an emperor in their next life.

Other Hindu meanings for the gem include a spiritual association with safety, as
well as living in peace with one’s enemies. In Burma, warriors used rubies to
make themselves invincible in battle. Fascinatingly, these warriors wouldn’t
just carry rubies on them, but would insert them into their flesh.

In Medieval Europe, this red gemstone was a sign of wealth, and would be
commonly seen on ceremonial robes and jewellery. They were also considered a
symbol of health, wealth, wisdom, and success in love. The latter persists to
this day, and is used as the traditional gift for a 40th wedding anniversary.

Mining of rubies first began in Myanmar (then known as Burma) in 2,500 BCE, but
has since expanded to all corners of the globe, with the likes of Afghanistan,
Australia, Cambodia, India, Madagascar, Malawi, Mozambique, Pakistan, Sri Lanka,
Tanzania, Thailand, the United States, and Vietnam all possessing at least one
site.

> In Medieval Europe, this red gemstone was a sign of wealth, and would be
> commonly seen on ceremonial robes and jewellery


SAPPHIRE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Blue and multi-coloured

RARITY

Precious

POPULAR CUTS

Round, Oval and Princess

This brilliant blue gemstone (another of the core four) has long been associated
with the heavens, owing to its royal colour. In ancient Persia, for example, it
was believed the world rested on a giant sapphire and that its reflections gave
the sky an evenly blue colour. This connection to the gods would be brought to
the forefront in Ancient Greece, where those seeking answers from the Oracle of
Delphi would wear sapphires to ensure their questions were answered correctly.

In Buddhist culture, sapphires were said to bring enlightenment, while Hindus
regularly used these beautiful gemstones to appease their gods during periods of
religious worship. In perhaps the most famous example of their use in classical
history, it’s believed by some that the Ten Commandments were engraved on slabs
of sapphires.

First discovered in Persia (modern day Iran) around 800 BCE, sapphires remain a
prominent feature of Middle Eastern and East Asian mining culture. Kashmir
became the home of most sapphire mining projects in the 19th and 20th centuries,
with Madagascar taking up the mantle in the 1990s.

In recent years, the gemstone has become a symbol of “royal love” amongst the
British monarchy, with the then-Prince (now King) Charles giving his former wife
Lady Diana Spencer a 12-carat blue sapphire ring in 1981. His son, Prince
William, would continue the tradition when he gave this ring to Kate Middleton
in 2010.

> First discovered in Persia (modern day Iran) around 800 BCE, sapphires remain
> a prominent feature of Middle Eastern and East Asian mining culture


AGATE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Dark red, orange, grey or brown

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Pear and Brilliant round

Named after the Achates river in Sicily, this iconic gem first came to the
forefront as far back as 300 BCE, when it was discovered in the riverbed there.
In the age of Julius Caesar, the Romans would also find the gemstone in a body
of water — this time the Nahe River in Germany. The gem-cutting facility which
was set up alongside the banks of this site are still in operation to this day.

Ancient Egyptians wore grey agate around their necks to protect and heal this
part of their body, while the Romans themselves would use the gem as part of
medicinal routines to improve  their general disposition and help fix bad
eyesight.

For the Persians, agate was the remedy for breaking a fever. The gems were
placed inside the mouth to combat thirst and reduce  temperature. In Saxon
culture, agate was said to prevent harm from thunder, sorcery, demonic
possession, poison and even drunkenness.

During the reign of Queen Victoria, Scottish agate would rise to prominence
amongst the wealthy of the day. These shows of decadence are now highly coveted
by contemporary jewellery collectors.

Agate can be found across most of the world today, but is perhaps most commonly
mined in the United States. Deposits of the gemstone are regularly unearthed in
Oregon, Washington, Idaho and Montana.

> Ancient Egyptians wore grey agate around their necks to protect and heal this
> part of their body


GARNET

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Red, green, pink and yellow

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Brilliant, Round and Square

As durable a gemstone as they come, this colourful stone has been traced back as
far as the Bronze Age, with several references also tying it to life in Ancient
Egyptian culture. The gem was used as a talisman for warriors going into battle,
and would be used to ward off the threat of pestilence or plague.

In extreme cases, Roman healers would sew garnet stones into the wounds of those
who’d been injured, believing it would cleanse and protect against any potential
disease. It’s unknown if this had the desired effect or not.

In jewellery, garnets were used as signet rings throughout most of the Roman
World, and would persist as such through the Middle Ages. The gem grew
increasingly popular during the Victorian age, often used as a collage to create
larger objects — most notably pomegranates, whose Ancient Greek name of
“granatum” is what gave the gem its title.

Garnet was first discovered in the Nile Delta, around 3,100 BCE. Today, mining
operations exist in all corners of the globe, with projects currently underway
in Russia, China, India, Australia, Canada, Brazil, Zambia, Kenya, Nigeria,
Tanzania, South Africa and the United States.

> In extreme cases, Roman healers would sew garnet stones into the wounds of
> those who’d been injured


JADE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Green

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Pear and Oval

When we think of jade, most of us associate this vibrant green gemstone with the
world of imperial ancient China. For more than 3,000 years, palaces across
several dynasties were decorated in this beautiful shade, with intricate
carvings and ceremonial objects proudly displayed as a symbol of power.

This practice of carving jade was far from just an aesthetic addition to the
home in the centuries prior. Stone age workers would commonly carve weapons and
tools out of the material, thanks to its tough nature. Even for more practical
uses, the craftsman still appreciated this gemstone’s power — believing it to
invoke the mystic forces of heaven and Earth.

In Central America, the Mayans and Aztecs used jade for medicinal purposes. This
is where the name “jade” derives from, with Spanish conquistadores naming it
“piedra de ijada” — translating to “stone of the pain in the side”, after they
saw several natives holding the green gem to the side of their bodies to cure
ailments.

Modern jade carvings are still popular in China, with the most common motifs all
carrying with them a symbolic meaning:

 * Bat — happiness
 * Butterfly — long life
 * Dragon — power, prosperity, and goodness
 * Peach — immortality
 * Bi (flat circular disk with a hole in the centre) — heaven

Myanmar, New Zealand, Canada, Taiwan, Guyana, Surinam, southern Europe, Russia
and China are the most common sources of jade mining today, with the most
notable early locales being the Ningshao area in the Yangtze River Delta
(Liangzhu culture 3400–2250 BCE) and in an area of the Liaoning province and
Inner Mongolia (Hongshan culture 4700–2200 BCE).

> Stone age workers would commonly carve weapons and tools out of the material,
> thanks to its tough nature


LABRADORITE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Blue and black

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Brilliant round, Oval and Pear

Taking its name from the nearby town of Labrador on Paul Island in Eastern
Canada, this majestic stone is loved the world over for its synergy with the
Northern Lights. The unique kaleidoscope of this primary black and blue gem
gives labradorite a celestial quality, making it an intrinsic part of cultural
folklore for generations.

Most poignantly of all, the Inuit and Beothuk people of the local region would
use the gem as a healing tool, with the belief that it would also bring good
mental health to those who possessed it. It’s also believed that finding the
gemstone in its natural form is a precursor to efficiently managing a period of
trouble or strife in your life.

Despite being so closely associated with Canada, labradorite can be found in
pockets all across the world. Current deposits are mined in Poland, Norway,
Finland, Madagascar, China, Australia, Slovakia and the United States.

> The unique kaleidoscope of this primary black and blue gem gives labradorite a
> celestial quality


LAPIS LAZULI

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Blue

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Pear, Oval, Round and Emerald

While less commonly spoken about in contemporary annals, lapis was once one of
the prize gems of the ancient world. Ancient civilisations like Mesopotamia,
Egypt, China, Greece, and Rome all coveted this luscious ocean blue gem — which
was once valued as highly as sapphires.

Egyptians believed that rubbing lapis powder in the eyes would improve eyesight.
It was also seen as a symbol of royalty, strength and courage, wisdom and
intellect, friendship and truth throughout most of the classical age.

The versatility and durability of the mineral has meant that hundreds of lapis
objects from classical antiquity still exist today. Among them are rings,
tablets, ornamental carvings, brooches, and several examples of fine jewellery.

Origins for lapis stretch back to modern-day Afghanistan — then known as
Bactria. In what is believed to be the first example of a commercial mining
project, workers in 700 BCE would trek mountains rising as high as 17,000 feet
to mine this exotic gem from the soil found there.

Deposits of lapis are primarily still mined in Afghanistan to this day, but
other examples have also been discovered in Chile, Siberia, the United States,
and Myanmar.

> Egyptians believed that rubbing lapis powder in the eyes would improve
> eyesight


MOONSTONE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

White or green

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Oval, Round and Briolette

Perhaps unsurprisingly, given this gem's ethereal name, moonstone has properties
which set it apart from most of its peers. This often opaque stone will
radiantly shine when light hits it, its glow seeming to come from within the
moonstone itself. This mystic occurrence is referred to as adularescence.

Owing to its unique appearance, the gem has been at the forefront of folklore
for generations. In Ancient Rome, it was believed the gems were solidified beams
of moonlights, and thus were often used during worship of the goddess of the
moon, Diana. Offering her a gem would grant love, wisdom and good fortune. It
was believed that those who used moonstone in jewellery would make smart choices
in life, as well as having enhanced prophetic abilities.

Indian culture also had an affinity with the gem. It was believed the moon god
Chandra Shekara had one permanently lodged in the centre of his head. The
gemstone was also associated with love and was traditionally offered as a gift
at affluent weddings. It was also believed that if two people wearing a
moonstone met on the night of a full moon they’d fall passionately in love.

Modern mining efforts are largely localised in Sri Lanka and Southern India,
with some projects in Australia, Armenia, Mexico, Brazil and the United States.

> Owing to its unique appearance, the gem has been at the forefront of folklore
> for generations


OPAL

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Multi-coloured

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Oval, Round, Pear and Marquise

The otherworldly explosion of colour which most opals possess have
unsurprisingly led to them being seen in most ancient cultures as highly
spiritual and symbolic items. Arabic legends believed these gems to fall from
the sky during flashes of lightning, while the Ancient Greeks felt like opals
guarded them against famine and disease.

In Europe, opal represents hope, purity, and truth, while in most cultures it’s
considered the luckiest of all gemstones, owing to its ability to possess almost
every natural colour. Furthermore, it was also believed that opals could
preserve the life and colour of blond hair.

Historic records suggest the first example of mined opal stretches as far back
as 10,000 years ago, with the gemstone found in Virgin Valley, North America.
Slightly more recently —  6,000 years ago — the Aztecs were believed to find a
pocket of the gems, while artefacts from Kenya around the same time also show
their presence.

Modern mining efforts for opals can be found primarily in Australia, but is also
present in Brazil, Mexico, Honduras and the western US. 95% of all opals are
currently unearthed down under.

> Historic records suggest the first example of mined opal stretches as far back
> as 10,000 years ago


PEARL

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Multi-coloured

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Round

Pearls have held a special place in society for millennia, with the Ancient
Greeks believing they were the solidified tears of the Gods. The gem was
presented to Chinese royalty as a gift as far back as 2,300BCE, while in Rome
the wearing of pearls was exclusive to the ruling elites of the day.

A clear connection between the monarchy and this organically created gemstone
comes from 520BC — when a Persian prince was entombed with pearls in his
sarcophagus. During the Byzantine Empire strict legislation was introduced
stating that only the emperor was allowed to wear the circular gem.

The association with royalty would continue through to Tudor England, which
would come to be known as the “Pearl Age”, owing to the nobility of the time
favouring pearls in both clothing and jewellery.

Away from these regal connections, pearls are believed to be the gemstone most
associated with inner wisdom — allowing a wearer to dive deep into their own
soul and gain a better understanding of themselves. Far from providing good
emotional health alone, pearls are also said to have the tangible effect of
increasing physical balance, particularly benefiting lung health and improving
hormonal balance.

> The gem was presented to Chinese royalty as a gift as far back as 2,300BCE


TOPAZ

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Yellow and Multi-coloured

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Round brilliant, Oval and Princess

The cultural presence of topaz throughout the ages is a little more complex than
most gemstones. For centuries, it was believed that all yellow stones fell under
the topaz umbrella. However, modern mineralogists have determined that many
yellow gems actually belong to other mineral families, making certain historical
references potentially inaccurate.

Regardless, the symbolic presence of topaz has been at the heart of many
cultures for millenia. When witchcraft was a genuine concern during the
Renaissance period, many believed the stone could break spells and soften anger.
Meanwhile, Hindus believed that topaz could bring wisdom and longevity. African
shamans would use topaz in a similar way to Mayans with jade, as they believed
it to have healing properties when rubbed on the body.

Today, topaz is one of the most affordable gemstones, owing to large deposits
which were discovered in Brazil in the mid-19th century. Prior to this, topaz
was perhaps most famously associated with the Russian Tzars. The Ural Mountains
were the leading source of mining prior to the Brazilian pocket being found, but
the pink-orange topaz found there could only be owned by the Russian royal
family.

Modern mining efforts are found in every corner of the globe, with Brazil, the
United States, Madagascar, Myanmar, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Mexico, Sri Lanka,
Pakistan, Russia, and China all found to hold rich deposits of this
semi-precious stone.

> Today, topaz is one of the most affordable gemstones, owing to large deposits
> which were discovered in Brazil


TOURMALINE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

COLOUR

Multi-coloured

RARITY

Semi-precious

POPULAR CUTS

Pear and Oval

Tourmaline has often been overshadowed throughout history, owing to its wide
variety of colours being confused for other precious and semi-precious gems.
Perhaps most commonly, green tourmaline is often confused for emerald, owing to
the vibrancy of the mineral.

Despite that, examples of its presence in human culture still persist across the
ages. Dutch scientists claimed tourmaline covered in silk and placed on the
cheek of a child would help them drift off to sleep more easily. By contrast, in
Africa, the gem was used to awaken someone from a dream of illusion – such as a
vision. In India it served to quickly identify the root cause of evils that were
plaguing people. It’s believed Native Americans also used the gem as part of
funeral processions for centuries.

China has been influential in the tourmaline market in more recent centuries,
with the Empress Dowager Cixi said to be particularly fond of pink tourmaline.
The value of the gem took a huge hit in 1912 when the Chinese market collapsed,
with it not fully recovering until the 1980s — when a large deposit was found in
Brazil.

Almost all tourmaline is currently mined in Africa and Brazil, but deposits have
also been found in Afghanistan and scattered across the United States.
Interestingly, the gem was first discovered on the isle of Elba — which (several
thousands of years later) is where the French dictator Napoleon was exiled to
for a year.

> In Africa, the gem was used to awaken someone from a dream of illusion – such
> as a vision

Chapter 2


TECHNIQUES AND METHODS USED TO TREAT AND ENHANCE GEMSTONES



Gemstones in their raw state can be breathtaking — but that doesn’t necessarily
mean they lend themselves to being fashioned into fine pieces of jewellery. The
process of extracting, refining and faceting gems is what turns beautiful
minerals into mesmerising statement pieces. But how does this happen? Let’s take
a look at the history of the practice, as well as what goes into making these
magnificent gems sparkle.


THE EVOLUTION OF GEMSTONE MINING

In its truest form, gemstone mining has existed as a practice for thousands of
years. The method of extraction will vary depending on the gem. Here’s a
breakdown of some of the key periods of gem mining history.

EARLY MINING PRACTICES

Mining dates back as far as prehistoric times. Even as early as the Stone Age,
evidence suggests that people of the time would dig into the soil for flint to
be used as scrapers, knives, and arrowheads. Eventually, efforts would extend to
the building of dedicated shafts — which would sometimes extend hundreds of
metres into the ground.

ANCIENT GEM MINING

Unlike rock and metals, gems were first mined on the side of riverbeds. This
would remain the practice throughout most of the ancient world, with basic
equipment like picks and shovels used to extract the minerals from the earth.
The first confirmed example of this practice took place in 7,000 BCE, with lapis
lazuli mined in Afghanistan.

THE MIDDLE AGES

With the increasing popularity and demand for gems, nobles and royalty began to
invest in mining operations that would excavate vast amounts of land. Tunnelling
and open-pit mining became a common practice, with an organised system in place
to extract gems at rapid pace.

MODERN GEM MINING

Modern mining techniques have made it easier than ever to unearth precious gems.
Pneumatic drills have made it possible for modern mine shafts to be as deep as
12,000 feet below the ground. This has improved both the speed and the
production level of gemstones being extracted.




PREPARING GEMSTONES FOR USE — CUTTING AND FACETING

For most gems to be turned into a piece of jewellery or fine art, it has to be
cut, or ‘faceted’. While this doesn’t always apply, such as in the case of
pearls, it’s a common procedure for most gems. Cutting and faceting sees the raw
material shined, shaped and shimmered so that it sparkles with an other-wordly
glow. This is a lengthy process, and involves great skill at every stage of the
journey.

THE ROUGH

All finished gemstone products initially start life as a rough piece of
crystalline mineral. While beautiful in their own way, these rugged forms don’t
lend themselves to being worn as jewellery. In the case of semi-precious gems,
the rough will often be worn down and cut into any number of shapes. For
precious gems, the initial rough shape will have more of an impact on the final
cut.

The aim with these rare gems is to lose as little as possible, without
compromising on the finished aesthetic and shine of the cut gem. Striking the
balance between these two key factors (preservation and brilliance) is what will
determine the grade of a gem.



PLANNING THE CUT

With so much to think about when it comes to cutting gems, it’s pivotal to have
this part of the process planned out in advance. Inclusions (cavities filled
with fluid and/or gas) must be taken into account and removed if necessary,
while ensuring colour banding and zoning is also balanced. Once the decision has
been made, the gem will be cleaned and prepped.

PRESHAPING

During this phase, a freehand cutting will be done by a skilled cutter. They’ll
take the rough and apply it to a “lap” (a large spinning wheel) which is laced
with diamond powder. This will file down the gem to the basic shape of the
desired final cut. Next, special wax is placed on the end of a metal rod called
a “dop”, which is then attached to the pre-shaped gem.



FACETING

The preshaping lap is replaced with a faceting one, with much finer diamond
powder placed on it. A skilled cutter will then slowly and meticulously place
the gem on this new lap, creating tens or even hundreds of faces (or facets) on
the surface of the gemstone.

Cutters use a “Height, Angle, Index” triangle to precisely measure where each
facet must be placed. “Height” determines the depth, “angle” the plane on which
the cut takes place, and “index” the placement of facets around the overall
shape. Specific angles will be used depending on the stone, as all gemstones
reflect light differently.



LIGHT LEAKAGE IS CHECKED

Poorly cut gems might result in the undesirable occurrence of light leakage.
This effectively sees a window inadvertently cut into the gem, which allows a
viewer to see through the centre of the piece. This is considered to be a major
flaw in a cut gemstone.

POLISHING

If the gem passes the light leakage test, the final step is to polish it. The
third and final lap is attached at this point, with the finest diamond powder
yet. An experienced cutter will slowly polish the gem at this stage to leave it
with a breathtaking lustre that glimmers in any light.




SYNTHETIC GEMS

While gems traditionally come from natural sources, technology has evolved to
the point where creating lab-grown gemstones is now also a reality. Because
these can be made to measure and are, in essence, unlimited in their supply,
they tend to be less valuable. For this reason, sellers must always specify
whether a gem is natural or grown in a laboratory.

There are six ways in which synthetic gems can be produced, with the first two
mentioned here used exclusively for diamonds:

HIGH PRESSURE HIGH TEMPERATURE (HPHT)

This process recreates the natural environment in inner Earth, where a great
amount of temperature and pressure is applied to a small ‘seed’ diamond encased
in carbon. This heat and pressure persist for days until a larger diamond is
formed.

CHEMICAL VAPOUR DEPOSITION (CVD)

This process sees diamonds grown using a hydrocarbon gas mixture. This mimics
how a diamond might be formed in an interstellar gas cloud. A slice of diamond
is placed in a sealed chamber and heated to 800 degrees celsius. Ionised carbon
rich gases are then pumped in, which allows for carbon to merge with the diamond
seed, helping it to grow.

FLAME FUSION (VERNEUIL PROCESS)

This was the first ever process used to successfully create synthetic gemstones.
Powdered chemicals are dropped through a high-temperature flame, with the
byproduct melting and falling onto a rotating pedestal. Despite being created as
far back as 1883, this remains the most cost-effective and popular way to make
synthetic gems.

FLUX GROWTH

Flux is a soldering compound which, when melted, dissolves other materials in a
similar fashion to how water dissolves salt and sugar. When a dissolved
substance begins to cool, synthetic crystals form. This is a popular method for
creating synthetic versions of precious gems — although it can take up to a year
from start to finish, and the raw materials needed tend to be expensive.

HYDROTHERMAL GROWTH

For this method to work, heat and pressure similar to the conditions found deep
in the Earth are required. Nutrients are dissolved in a water solution and then
exposed to these conditions, with the synthetic crystals forming during the
cooling period.

CRYSTAL PULLING (CZOCHRALSKI PROCESS)

This fascinating process sees key nutrients melted down in a crucible, with a
seed crystal added to the mix. The new crystalline mineral grows around this,
which are then pulled away and sold as individual gems.

Utilising these methods can result in a number of synthetic gems being
artificially created. Some examples include:

RUBY

The first gem to be made using the Verneuil Process

DIAMONDS

HPHT or CVD processes largely deal with the production of diamonds

SAPPHIRES

These are most commonly produced by flame fusion, but can also be flux grown

EMERALD

These are usually produced via hydrothermal growth

OPAL

Hydrostatic pressure is usually used in the creation of these beautiful gems


Chapter 3


THE MODERN USE OF GEMSTONES



Gemstones in the modern age are less commonly associated with spiritual
medicinal purposes — although this practice hasn’t been lost altogether. In this
chapter, we’ll discuss what the current value of most major gemstones is, as
well as jewellery types and spiritual connections which some believe the gems
still have.


MODERN GEMSTONE VALUES

Just as with any market, the value of specific gemstones tends to fluctuate in
accordance with a number of key factors. For gems, these generally revolve
around the following nine core principles:

1. COLOUR

The more rich or intense the colour of a gem, the higher valuation it will be
given. We tend to associate certain gems with a vivid colour. For example, we
all know emeralds are green and sapphires are most often blue. The closer to the
natural royal blue or verdant green we associate the colour with, the better.

2. CLARITY

Clarity doesn’t mean the ability to see through a gem, but rather a lack of
inclusions (pockets of liquid or gas that are included within the stone). The
fewer there are, the more value a gem carries.

3. CUT

A gem's value is greatly impacted by its cut level, that is, its capacity to
sparkle and reflect light. The quality of the cut lies primarily in the hands of
a cutter. It’s for this reason that experts who’ve spent decades honing their
craft are called upon to work on precious gems.

4. CARAT

While the finesse of the colour, clarity and cut are pivotal, it’s impossible to
overlook the importance of how big or heavy a stone is. Gems are weighed in
carats (0.2 grams). The total number of carats will define the intrinsic value
of a gemstone.

5. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN

Certain countries and even specific mines are famed for the quality of a
particular stone they excavate. For example, countries like Myanmar, Sri Lanka,
Colombia and Brazil tend to fetch high values for the gems they produce.

6. SHAPE

Some shapes cost more on the market than others. The rounder the shape, the more
sought-after it tends to be. This is largely determined by the quantity of
original rough stone lost during the cutting process.

7. CERTIFICATE

Having a gemstone certificate from an internationally recognized gemological
laboratory will go a long way to increasing the value of a stone. These show
that an item is legitimate, and act as a trust signal for potential buyers.

8. TREATMENT

If a gem has been artificially treated to change its colour, or any part of its
appearance, it can often lower its value. Despite this being the case, treating
stones are relatively common and well-accepted within the industry. However, the
most prestigious gemstones on the market are usually untreated.

9. SUPPLY CHAIN

Just as with any commodity, the more steps along the supply chain, the higher
you can expect the final price of an item to be. Gems are no different, with
excavators, dealers, exporters, cutters and jewellers all taking a cut.

As a result, the amount that a gem can be valued at will be in a constant state
of flux.




BIRTHSTONES AND PERSONALISED JEWELLERY

Everyone has a birthstone, even if they don’t know what theirs is. These
associations with a coloured gem carry with them spiritual connections. Keeping
your gem on you could help improve your luck, or even see you prosper in life.

Want to know what your birthstone is? Check out our full month-by-month
breakdown here:

JANUARY

Garnet

FEBRUARY

Amethyst

MARCH

Blue Topaz, Aquamarine or Bloodstone

APRIL

White Topaz or Diamond

MAY

Chrysoprase or Emerald

JUNE

Moonstone, Pearl or Alexandrite

JULY

Carnelian or Ruby

AUGUST

Peridot

SEPTEMBER

Lapis Lazuli or Sapphire

OCTOBER

Tourmaline, Rose Quartz or Opal

NOVEMBER

Smokey Quartz or Citrine

DECEMBER

Turquoise or Tanzanite

Carrying around a gemstone in your pocket isn’t practical. As such, you’ll want
to seamlessly blend your birthstone into your day-to-day look. Here are four
ways to make your stone part of your aesthetic.

BRACELETS

These pieces are versatile forms of jewellery. Your birthstone can be fixed all
along the bracelet, or just in a focalised central point. Make sure to choose a
metal which helps accentuate your gem’s natural brilliance.

CHARM NECKLACES

Birthstones worn on a charm necklace are the ultimate way to customise your look
while incorporating a stone that means something to you. The charm itself can be
whatever you want it to be, which allows for a personal touch in regards to
symbolism. Furthermore, the shape and design of the necklace will also give you
more freedom when it comes to gem placement. Search around and look for
inspiration online, or even come up with a totally unique design yourself.

EARRINGS

When one gem simply isn’t enough to leave you feeling satisfied, an earring set
could be the way to go. This offers the chance to grab the attenton of onlookers
no matter what angle they catch you from, and serves as the perfect way to make
your birthstone an important, or even intrinsic, part of your look.

PENDANTS

Designed to evoke simplicity and grace, pendants are another fantastic way to
show off your birthstone in a sleek and stylish manner. This type of jewellery
often contains very little metal set around the gem, which ensures that the
stone is the star of the show.

RINGS

Gems work perfectly on a ring as they’re able to be incorporated fairly
seamlessly into the metal itself. You can use a gem to create a solid band all
the way round the outside of the ring, or use gem droplets to create individual
patterns. Rings are also a great option for a birthstone because they offer the
wearer the chance to make their gemstone the central feature.

LOCKETS

This practical item can be adorned with your gem on the clasp of the locket,
allowing you to carry around a meaningful photo or other personal possession
with you wherever you go.  A locket can also serve as a cherished heirloom for
future generations.




HEALING OR SPIRITUAL PROPERTIES

Holistic medicine may not be as prevalent as it once was, but many still believe
that gemstones carry with them healing and other-worldly properties that can
help cure the mind, body and soul. Here are some examples of gems that are
commonly used to heal or enhance your life:

AGATE

Emotional, physical, and intellectual balance, harmonising yin and yang
energies. It aids in centering physical energy, heals inner anger and encourages
love to start over.

ALEXANDRITE

This gemstone brings good luck, wealth and success. It might also increase
self-esteem and confidence, while helping to manifest dreams and goals.

AMBER

Amber enhances memory, helps with decision-making and improves mental agility.
It brings good luck for warriors and is a talisman for self-confidence.

AMETHYST

This gem is said to sooth dreams, while providing clarity and peacefulness to
the waking mind. It also increases your intuition and psychic abilities.

AQUAMARINE

This gem helps maintain balance, while also improving courage and preparedness.
It’s also thought to improve the luck of the wearer and promote feelings of joy
and happiness.

CITRINE

This orange gem brings abundance, optimism and happiness. It also cleanses your
aura, promotes spiritual growth and aligns your energy with higher
consciousness.



DIAMOND

Wearers of diamond will find that it calms the mind and brings peace. They also
attract pleasure, romance and comfort.

EMERALD

This vibrant green gem opens the heart to new possibilities and soothes your
overall emotions. Inspiration, balance, wisdom and patience will also be
heightened. Friendship, peace, harmony and domestic bliss may also be granted to
a wearer.

GARNET

The red glow of garnet is often thought to increase sexual desire, while also
believed to be a cure for melancholy, prevent haemorrhages and even improve
circulation.

JADE

This brilliant green gem is used to heal emotionally, while also helping to
quell and prevent nightmares. Jade may also bring good luck.



LABRADORITE

This gem serves as a shield for your aura, helping to protect against
negativity. Labradorite also helps a person transform themselves, enhancing
strength of will and inner worth.

LAPIS LAZULI

This gem is believed to help clear one’s throat, while also warding off physical
attacks. Wisdom and communication skills are improved when wearing it.

MALACHITE

Those carrying this lesser-known gem can benefit from it revealing and healing
emotional pain by absorbing the pain into itself. Malachite also provides the
insight needed for growth.

MOONSTONE

This heavenly gem provides inner clarity and helps a wearer to embrace new
beginnings. It’s also linked to themes like fertility, balance, softness, and
intuition.

OPAL

Opals help to boost your mood, while also providing peace. It can make clear
what is or isn’t good for your life and help to remove negative elements
surrounding you.

PEARL

Purity, balance and inner wisdom are at the forefront for wearers of pearl.
They’re also thought to harmonise someone with the natural world.

PERIDOT

Peridot brings peace, health and rest. Creativity is also boosted and your
general mood is likely to be cheerier when wearing it.

ROSE QUARTZ

Rose Quartz is the stone of unconditional love. Compassion is heightened, as are
your chances of finding a loving partner.



RUBY

This precious gem is thought to promote loving, nurturing, health, knowledge and
wealth.

SAPPHIRE

Also known as the wisdom stone, sapphire stimulates concentration and enhances
creativity and depth of thought.

TOPAZ

Wearers of topaz will feel soothed, healed and re-centred. Many wear it when
trying to build bridges with other people.

TOURMALINE

This gem is perfect for those with a broken heart. It disperses emotional pain
and dissolves disruptive feelings. Tourmaline can also calm negative emotions. 

Chapter 4


USEFUL LINKS



The world of gemstones is a mystical one. If you’d like to discover more about
these aesthetically stunning minerals, be sure to check out this helpful
collection of secondary reading materials.


 * JEWELRY & GEMSTONE CLEANING METHODS TO USE AT HOME
   
   https://www.americangemsociety.org/jewelry-gemstone-cleaning-methods/


 * THE MOST COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO BUYING ETHICAL GEMSTONES - GEM BREAKFAST
   
   https://gembreakfast.com/blogs/news/the-most-comprehensive-guide-to-buying-ethical-gemstones


 * SELL YOUR GEMSTONES IN LONDON: HATTON GARDEN BEST PRICE
   
   https://londongoldcentre.co.uk/gemstones/


 * LIST OF GEMSTONES: PRECIOUS AND SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES - GEM SOCIETY
   
   https://www.gemsociety.org/gemstone-encyclopedia/


 * COLOURED GEMSTONE GUIDE - DISCOVER GEMSTONES AT 77 DIAMONDS
   
   https://www.77diamonds.com/gemstones/guide

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