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HALOGEN TO OEM LED HEADLIGHTS THE FORSCAN WAY

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HALOGEN TO OEM LED HEADLIGHTS THE FORSCAN WAY

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09-11-2017, 11:21 PM
  #1  
Ryan B
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Halogen to OEM LED Headlights the Forscan Way

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How to swap from Halogen to OEM LED headlights and maintain the stock
functionality.

This thread is made possible by contributions from many forum members:
@Livnitup, @Firerunner, @starliner57, @jmeo, @kloubser, @Fivepointocd,
@doctorwho, @DyLivn

Ford Part Numbers for 2015-2017 trucks:
GL3Z-13008-E (Black Housing, Passenger Side)
GL3Z-13008-F (Black Housing, Driver Side)
FL3Z-13C170-A (Ballast, 2 Required)
W715133-S900 (Ballast Screws, 6 Required)

Ford Part Numbers for 2018+ trucks:
JL3Z-13008-AJ (Black Housing, Left Driver Side)
JL3Z-13008-AK (Black Housing, Right Passenger Side)
JL3Z-13008-AH (Chrome Housing, Left Driver Side)
JL3Z-13008-AG (Chrome Housing, Right Passenger Side)
FL3Z-13C170-A (Ballast, 2 Required)
W715133-S900 (Ballast Screws, 6 Required)

On all 2015+ F150's each OEM LED headlight needs 7 wires to function correctly;
Low Beam, High Beam, DRL, Turn, Running Light, Turn Outage, Ground. A truck with
Halogen lights will have 5 of those 7 wires already at each headlight. The DRL
and Turn Outage wires must be added to connector 2280F at the BCM and then run
to each headlight for factory operation.

Adding the missing wires to the BCM:
I made a harness of 4 wires wrapped in Tesa Tape and terminated with the BCM
terminals on one end. The two wires for the passenger side should be at least
7.5ft long and the wires for the driver side should be at least 15ft long. It's
important to use 4 different colors of wire to keep track of what goes where.
For C2280F, you need to use either DU2Z-14474-AA pigtails or TE Connectivity
terminals P/n: 1924955-3 .

Pulling wires through the firewall:
After the harness was made, I used a coat hanger that was sharpened on one end
to pull the wire through the grommet on the passenger side of the firewall. I
went from the engine compartment into the cab through the big grommet, this is
the hard way. The easier way is to pull down the fender liner on the passenger
side and use one of the smaller, single wall grommets. This grommet can be seen
best in doctorwho's write up

Re-pinning the 2280F Connector is tricky because Ford didn't leave much slack to
work with. The best way I found to get room to work was to remove the trim piece
under the blower motor, its held on by two push pins by the glove box hinge. The
2280F connector itself is made up of two terminal blocks inside a housing. One
block has pins 1-20 and the second is 21-40. There is a little tab on either
side of the housing you depress to slide the terminal blocks out. Jmeo took good
pictures of what needs to be done at the BCM.

Rear Daytime Running Lights (only applies to 2018+): On 2018 Halogen trucks,
Ford swapped to a four bulb taillight setup. To power the extra two bulbs, they
used pins 36 and 40 on the BCM. To have the LED DRLs function correctly, you
will need to de-pin the existing wires that are in pins 36 and 40 on the C2280F
connector and insert the wires from your harness. If you are retaining your
halogen taillights, you will need to make inline adapters for the taillights. If
you don't, only two of the four taillights will illuminate. To make an in-line
adapter you need Molex 33482-3628 and Molex 33472-0668. Insert wires in pins 1
and 5 on the female connector and tie them together, then connect them to pin 1
on the male connector. Pins 2,4 and 6 will be straight through from the female
to male connector. Insert these inline adapters between each tail light and the
factory wiring harness. If you have LED taillights you can disregard this part.

Wires that need to be added (Colors are mine):
Left Turn Outage - Pin #6 (White)
Left DRL - Pin #40 (Black)
Right Turn Outage - Pin #17 (Red)
Right DRL Pin - #36 (Yellow)

Engine Bay:
Remove the headlights, then start to run the new harness in the engine bay. I
put the Tesa Tape wrapped harness in plastic wire loom and ran it under the fuse
box and around the battery following the other harness and pulled it out behind
the Right Head light. Then I took the two wires for the Left headlight and ran
them across the top of the grille to the other side. I hid them under the
plastic radiator trim cover making sure to keep the wires away from the
shutters.

Wiring the Headlights:
You have a few options here. I fully committed to this, so I cut off all four of
the halogen connectors and used Molex 33472-1601 Female connectors and crimped
new terminals Molex 330122003 onto the existing truck wires. If you don't have a
crimp tool, you can use Motorcraft WPT-1279 pigtails and butt connectors.

Or you can make a PnP harness using the below parts:
Qty 2: Molex 33472-1601 (Female Connector)
Qty 14: Molex 330122003 (Female Terminals for 33472-1601)
Qty 2: Molex 33481-0401 (Male Connector for the LO and HI Beam lamps)
Qty 6: Molex 330000003 (Terminals for 33481-0401)You'll also need either
these:Qty 2: 3156/3157 Bulb Adapters (These mate with the turn signal and
parking light connector).
Qty 2: Standard Motor Products S-874 This is the intermediary piece between the
bulb adapters and the turn/park connector. You can reuse the ones off your
halogen lights or get these.
The only tricky part with this setup will be wiring the 3156/3157 bulb adapters.
They are not standard in terms of which contacts go to which wire color. If your
parking lights and turn signals do not work after you install it, you'd need to
remove the plug from the socket, flip it over, and then re-insert it.Or these:
Qty 2: 3157 Connectors from The Retrofit Source.

For 2015-2017 Trucks the wiring is as follows:
The Right headlight connector gets pinned as follows:
Pin 1 - Yellow/Violet
Pin 2 - Red
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Yellow
Pin 5 - Blue/Green
Pin 6 - Violet/Orange
Pin 7 - Black/Gray

The Left Headlight is not the same, but similar:
Pin 1 - Blue/Green
Pin 2 - White
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Black
Pin 5 - Brown/Blue
Pin 6 - Gray/Brown
Pin 7 - Black/Yellow

For 2018+ Trucks the wiring is as follows:
The Right headlight connector gets pinned as follows:
Pin 1 - Black/Gray
Pin 2 - Yellow/Violet
Pin 3 - Yellow
Pin 4 - Blue/Gray
Pin 5 - Not Used
Pin 6 - Blue/Green
Pin 7 - Violet/Orange
Pin 8 - Red

The Left Headlight is not the same, but similar:
Pin 1 - Black/Yellow
Pin 2 - Blue/Green
Pin 3 - Black
Pin 4 - Blue/Gray
Pin 5 - Not Used
Pin 6 - Brown/Blue
Pin 7 - Gray/Brown
Pin 8 - White

Forscan:
The final piece to the puzzle is changing the BCM programming to work with the
LEDs.
726-24-01 xxxx xxFF xFxx
726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx
726-27-01 x0x1 xxxx xxxx
726-27-01 x0xx xxxx xxxx (Use this if you did not add wires to the BCM)
726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx
726-29-02 x0xx xxxx xxxx (2018 Trucks Only)
726-45-01 xxxx 7Fxx xxxx
726-50-01 10xx
726-50-01 08xx (Use this if you did not add wires to the BCM)

Installation Video:
Airborne Ape has put together an extremely through video on building a harness
and the entire installation process. I highly recommend watching it start to
finish to get a complete picture of what this swap involves.

You Tube


Soviet1975 Made a good video describing the process of completing the swap. He
explains how to complete the hardest part of the swap, pulling the wiring loom
through the firewall and pinning the C2280F connector.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wF8iEZKcMM


Results:
I have been running this setup on my 2016 XLT since September 2017 and have had
no issues. The DRLs function normally, the Auto setting still works and I
haven't had either C-light go out.

I have also assisted with swaps on 2018 XLTs and Lariats and can say that the
lights on those trucks are operating as if they came from factory with LEDs too.

Some pictures that I did remember to take:







Finally, I do offer premade PnP harnesses for all headlight swaps, send me a PM
for more info.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Last edited by Ryan B; 11-19-2019 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Add More Information
 
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Ryan B
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09-11-2017, 11:36 PM
  #2  
Firerunner
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Awesome job Ryan! I don't see anything wrong with your write-up.... you have
solved the issues MANY people have had with these headlights.

Hats off to you... now I need to buy some lights & complete this mod
 
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09-12-2017, 12:32 AM
  #3  
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Awesome good to know, thanks!
 
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09-12-2017, 01:01 AM
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I appreciate the effort, and really wish I could follow this, as I would love to
complete this mod. But this might as well be written in Spanish. (That's on my
lack of understanding, and has nothing to do with your write up).
 
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09-12-2017, 06:55 AM
  #5  
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan B
I'd like to add my contribution to the forum, How to swap from halogen to the
OEM LED headlights and maintain the stock functionality. After working with
@Livnitup and @Firerunner to figure out adding BLIS to an XLT it occurred to me
that running the factory LED Headlights should work too if the right
configuration was set in the BCM. Write-ups aren't my thing, so if some would
like to help me clean this rambling up into a direct how-to, PM me.

Each LED headlight needs 7 wires to function correctly; Low Beam, High Beam,
DRL, Turn, Running Light, Turn Outage, Ground. A truck with Halogen lights will
have 5 of those 7 wires already at each headlight. The DRL and Turn Outage wires
must be added to connector 2280F at the BCM and then run to each headlight for
factory operation.

BCM:
To start, I made a harness of 4 wires wrapped in Tesa Tape and terminated for
the BCM connector. It's important to use 4 different colors of wire to keep
track of what goes where. For C2280F, you need to use DU2Z-14474-AA terminals.
After the harness was made, I used a coat hanger that was sharpened on one end
to pull the wire through the grommet on the passenger side of the firewall.

Re-pinning the 2280F Connector is tricky because Ford didn't leave much slack to
work with. The best way I found to get room to work was to remove the trim piece
under the blower motor, its held on by two push pins by the glove box hinge. The
2280F connector itself is made up of two terminal blocks inside a housing. One
block has pins 1-20 and the second is 21-40. There is a little tab on either
side of the housing you depress to slide the terminal blocks out. Make sure
you're pinning the right spot in the connector, de-pinning this connector looks
almost impossible.

Wires you're adding: (Colors are mine)
Left Turn Outage - Pin #6 (White)
Left DRL - Pin #40 (Black)
Right Turn Outage - Pin #17 (Red)
Right DRL Pin - #36 (Yellow)

Engine Bay:
Remove the headlights, then start to run the new harness in the engine bay. I
put the Tesa Tape wrapped harness in plastic wire loom and ran it under the fuse
box and around the battery following the other harness and pulled it out behind
the Right Head light. Then I took the two wires for the Left headlight and ran
them across the top of the grille to the other side. I hid them under the
plastic radiator trim cover making sure to keep the wires away from the
shutters.

Wiring the Headlights: I fully committed to this, so I cut off all four of the
halogen connectors and used Molex MX150 Female Connectors to mate with the plug
on the Headlights. Once both connectors are pinned, re-install the headlights
and clean up any wire ties or excess wire.

The Right headlight connector gets pinned as follows:
Pin 1 - Yellow/Violet
Pin 2 - Red
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Yellow
Pin 5 - Blue/Green
Pin 6 - Violet/Orange
Pin 7 - Black/Gray

The Left Headlight is not the same, but similar:
Pin 1 - Blue/Green
Pin 2 - White
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Black
Pin 5 - Brown/Blue
Pin 6 - Gray/Brown
Pin 7 - Black/Yellow

Forscan:
The final piece to the puzzle is changing the BCM programming to work with the
LEDs.
726-24-01 xxxx xxFF xFxx*
726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx
726-27-01 x0x1 xxx1 01xx
726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx
726-45-01 xxxx 11xx xxxx
726-50-01 10xx


*This is for a truck with BLIS, a Non-Blis truck will have a different 726-24-01
configuration.

Results:
I have been running this setup since Friday and have had no issues. DRL function
normally, the Auto setting still works and I haven't had either C-light go out.
I do have a DTC for "lost communication with seat module A" but I can live with
that.

Some pictures that I did remember to take:







Any commercially available plug and play options?
 
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09-12-2017, 10:08 AM
  #6  
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by GM150
Any commercially available plug and play options?


Unfortunately, no.


You could make up some adapters similar to what RR and TRS have and then try the
Forscan programming and see what happens. You still wouldn't have DRLs but it
might work. If your local to the NJ area, I'd be happy to lend a hand pulling
the wires.
 
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09-12-2017, 10:18 AM
  #7  
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Too far away, but thanks
Out of my comfort zone.
If someone came up with a solution for regular DIYers I think it'll sell well.
Need some simple like change, plugs or wires and detailed instructions.
So I won't be attempting this. My halogens work, don't want to ruin a new truck.

Good work, you guys are phenomenal
 
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09-12-2017, 10:48 AM
  #8  
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thats awesome man ,

someone who has stock leds or a harness should check their harness connector for
a part number and maybe we can repin and use the terminals in the halogen plug
instead of cutting them all off?

the link to the terminals you used is dead
 
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09-12-2017, 11:17 AM
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan B
I'd like to add my contribution to the forum, How to swap from halogen to the
OEM LED headlights and maintain the stock functionality. After working with
@Livnitup and @Firerunner to figure out adding BLIS to an XLT it occurred to me
that running the factory LED Headlights should work too if the right
configuration was set in the BCM. Write-ups aren't my thing, so if some would
like to help me clean this rambling up into a direct how-to, PM me.

Each LED headlight needs 7 wires to function correctly; Low Beam, High Beam,
DRL, Turn, Running Light, Turn Outage, Ground. A truck with Halogen lights will
have 5 of those 7 wires already at each headlight. The DRL and Turn Outage wires
must be added to connector 2280F at the BCM and then run to each headlight for
factory operation.

BCM:
To start, I made a harness of 4 wires wrapped in Tesa Tape and terminated for
the BCM connector. It's important to use 4 different colors of wire to keep
track of what goes where. For C2280F, you need to use DU2Z-14474-AA terminals.
After the harness was made, I used a coat hanger that was sharpened on one end
to pull the wire through the grommet on the passenger side of the firewall.

Re-pinning the 2280F Connector is tricky because Ford didn't leave much slack to
work with. The best way I found to get room to work was to remove the trim piece
under the blower motor, its held on by two push pins by the glove box hinge. The
2280F connector itself is made up of two terminal blocks inside a housing. One
block has pins 1-20 and the second is 21-40. There is a little tab on either
side of the housing you depress to slide the terminal blocks out. Make sure
you're pinning the right spot in the connector, de-pinning this connector looks
almost impossible.

Wires you're adding: (Colors are mine)
Left Turn Outage - Pin #6 (White)
Left DRL - Pin #40 (Black)
Right Turn Outage - Pin #17 (Red)
Right DRL Pin - #36 (Yellow)

Engine Bay:
Remove the headlights, then start to run the new harness in the engine bay. I
put the Tesa Tape wrapped harness in plastic wire loom and ran it under the fuse
box and around the battery following the other harness and pulled it out behind
the Right Head light. Then I took the two wires for the Left headlight and ran
them across the top of the grille to the other side. I hid them under the
plastic radiator trim cover making sure to keep the wires away from the
shutters.

Wiring the Headlights: I fully committed to this, so I cut off all four of the
halogen connectors and used Molex MX150 Female Connectors to mate with the plug
on the Headlights. Once both connectors are pinned, re-install the headlights
and clean up any wire ties or excess wire.

The Right headlight connector gets pinned as follows:
Pin 1 - Yellow/Violet
Pin 2 - Red
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Yellow
Pin 5 - Blue/Green
Pin 6 - Violet/Orange
Pin 7 - Black/Gray

The Left Headlight is not the same, but similar:
Pin 1 - Blue/Green
Pin 2 - White
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Black
Pin 5 - Brown/Blue
Pin 6 - Gray/Brown
Pin 7 - Black/Yellow

Forscan:
The final piece to the puzzle is changing the BCM programming to work with the
LEDs.
726-24-01 xxxx xxFF xFxx*
726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx
726-27-01 x0x1 xxx1 01xx
726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx
726-45-01 xxxx 11xx xxxx
726-50-01 10xx


*This is for a truck with BLIS, a Non-Blis truck will have a different 726-24-01
configuration.

Results:
I have been running this setup since Friday and have had no issues. DRL function
normally, the Auto setting still works and I haven't had either C-light go out.
I do have a DTC for "lost communication with seat module A" but I can live with
that.

Some pictures that I did remember to take:







Great job!

Knocked it out or the park with your write-up!

I've got Anzo's but if the output of the stock LED's outperforms them I'd
consider switching to the SE LED's.
 
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09-12-2017, 11:26 AM
  #10  
Ryan B
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwcb08
thats awesome man ,

someone who has stock leds or a harness should check their harness connector for
a part number and maybe we can repin and use the terminals in the halogen plug
instead of cutting them all off?

the link to the terminals you used is dead


I updated the post with other places to get the connectors besides Ebay. The
connectors are the same ones used for the LED tail lights so I doubt you would
be able to reuse the pins from the halogen plugs. But if you could, that'd be
awesome.
 
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09-12-2017, 11:29 AM
  #11  
MikeTHIS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan B
I updated the post with other places to get the connectors besides Ebay. The
connectors are the same ones used for the LED tail lights so I doubt you would
be able to reuse the pins from the halogen plugs. But if you could, that'd be
awesome.
Molex pins are 100% removable. They even make a tool (available through Ford
too)
 
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09-12-2017, 11:58 AM
  #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTHIS
Molex pins are 100% removable. They even make a tool (available through Ford
too)


They are, but I think the pins used in the halogen headlight connectors are a
different size then the ones used in the LED connector. I have an extra Molex
connector so I'll depin the Halogen connectors when I get home and see if they
fit.
 
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09-12-2017, 12:00 PM
  #13  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan B
They are, but I think the pins used in the halogen headlight connectors are a
different size then the ones used in the LED connector. I have an extra Molex
connector so I'll depin the Halogen connectors when I get home and see if they
fit.
Sounds good.

I'm in no rush, but FOR SCIENCE!
 
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09-12-2017, 12:57 PM
  #14  
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@JAMADOR where are you at dude.... this is the breakthrough you have been
waiting for

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Last edited by Firerunner; 09-12-2017 at 01:00 PM.
 
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09-12-2017, 01:46 PM
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Wow, thanks. This is a must do mod for me.
Only regret of mine is settling for the 501a packaging and skipping out on these
lights.
 
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09-12-2017, 01:59 PM
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Wow this is exactly what I've been looking for. I appreciate all the work yall
put in to make this happen cause I was just about ready to pull the trigger on a
set of axial headlights as a compromise between close to oem led styling but
reliability of not using the adapters everyone has so many issues with. My only
question is do you know the different value inputs for non blis enabled trucks
like mine? cause you stated "a Non-Blis truck will have a different 726-24-01
configuration" or am I possibly misunderstanding something?
 
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09-12-2017, 02:11 PM
  #17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan B
I'd like to add my contribution to the forum, How to swap from halogen to the
OEM LED headlights and maintain the stock functionality. After working with
@Livnitup and @Firerunner to figure out adding BLIS to an XLT it occurred to me
that running the factory LED Headlights should work too if the right
configuration was set in the BCM. Write-ups aren't my thing, so if some would
like to help me clean this rambling up into a direct how-to, PM me.

Each LED headlight needs 7 wires to function correctly; Low Beam, High Beam,
DRL, Turn, Running Light, Turn Outage, Ground. A truck with Halogen lights will
have 5 of those 7 wires already at each headlight. The DRL and Turn Outage wires
must be added to connector 2280F at the BCM and then run to each headlight for
factory operation.

BCM:
To start, I made a harness of 4 wires wrapped in Tesa Tape and terminated for
the BCM connector. It's important to use 4 different colors of wire to keep
track of what goes where. For C2280F, you need to use DU2Z-14474-AA terminals.
After the harness was made, I used a coat hanger that was sharpened on one end
to pull the wire through the grommet on the passenger side of the firewall.

Re-pinning the 2280F Connector is tricky because Ford didn't leave much slack to
work with. The best way I found to get room to work was to remove the trim piece
under the blower motor, its held on by two push pins by the glove box hinge. The
2280F connector itself is made up of two terminal blocks inside a housing. One
block has pins 1-20 and the second is 21-40. There is a little tab on either
side of the housing you depress to slide the terminal blocks out. Make sure
you're pinning the right spot in the connector, de-pinning this connector looks
almost impossible.

Wires you're adding: (Colors are mine)
Left Turn Outage - Pin #6 (White)
Left DRL - Pin #40 (Black)
Right Turn Outage - Pin #17 (Red)
Right DRL Pin - #36 (Yellow)

Engine Bay:
Remove the headlights, then start to run the new harness in the engine bay. I
put the Tesa Tape wrapped harness in plastic wire loom and ran it under the fuse
box and around the battery following the other harness and pulled it out behind
the Right Head light. Then I took the two wires for the Left headlight and ran
them across the top of the grille to the other side. I hid them under the
plastic radiator trim cover making sure to keep the wires away from the
shutters.

Wiring the Headlights: I fully committed to this, so I cut off all four of the
halogen connectors and used Molex MX150 Female Connectors to mate with the plug
on the Headlights. Once both connectors are pinned, re-install the headlights
and clean up any wire ties or excess wire. Edit: If the Ebay link dies, you can
use either Motorcraft WPT-1279 pigtails or Molex 33472-1601 Connectors.

The Right headlight connector gets pinned as follows:
Pin 1 - Yellow/Violet
Pin 2 - Red
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Yellow
Pin 5 - Blue/Green
Pin 6 - Violet/Orange
Pin 7 - Black/Gray

The Left Headlight is not the same, but similar:
Pin 1 - Blue/Green
Pin 2 - White
Pin 3 - Blue/Gray
Pin 4 - Black
Pin 5 - Brown/Blue
Pin 6 - Gray/Brown
Pin 7 - Black/Yellow

Forscan:
The final piece to the puzzle is changing the BCM programming to work with the
LEDs.
726-24-01 xxxx xxFF xFxx*
726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx
726-27-01 x0x1 xxx1 01xx
726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx
726-45-01 xxxx 11xx xxxx
726-50-01 10xx


*This is for a truck with BLIS, a Non-Blis truck will have a different 726-24-01
configuration.

Results:
I have been running this setup since Friday and have had no issues. DRL function
normally, the Auto setting still works and I haven't had either C-light go out.
I do have a DTC for "lost communication with seat module A" but I can live with
that.

Some pictures that I did remember to take:





Nice work!!
 
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09-12-2017, 02:28 PM
  #18  
DrizzyMoto
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Would of did this to save 500 bucks last year. But too late now and don't have
any issues with my first gen raptor retro fit harness.

Great job on this though will save people a lot of money.
 
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09-12-2017, 02:32 PM
  #19  
Z7What
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I'm curious if changing the ABD to what's listed would work on a truck using a
TRS harness that has issues with the C Bar and Auto not working all the time.

Wayne
 
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09-12-2017, 04:21 PM
  #20  
Jfabes
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OP, thanks for all the info. What year is your truck? Mine is a 2017 with BLIS
and when I set 726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx, my interior lights "strobe"...they
appear to go bright and dim like on a different frequency. I read on here this
pertains to 2017's only???


I have the RR harness and get the occasional C light not coming on with the
parking lights, do you know if any of the Forscan changes affect that? Reason I
ask is I haven't seen 726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx mentioned in previous threads.


Finally, are 726-45-01 xxxx 11xx xxxx and 726-50-01 10xx only necessary if using
DRL's (which I do not)?
 
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09-12-2017, 09:31 PM
  #21  
Ryan B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTHIS
Sounds good.

I'm in no rush, but FOR SCIENCE!
@MikeTHIS, you were half right. The Halogen lights use two separate connectors,
C1021 and C1023. C1021 powers the bulbs themselves and actually uses the same
female terminals as the Led connecter. C1023 powers the turns and parking lamps
and uses a different style terminal. You could de-pin one connector, but you'd
still need to cut the other one. So I guess its a toss up?


Quote:
Originally Posted by JP1341
My only question is do you know the different value inputs for non blis enabled
trucks like mine?
For a Non-Blis truck, it should be 726-24-01 xxxx xxF3 x6xx


Quote:
Originally Posted by Z7What
I'm curious if changing the ABD to what's listed would work on a truck using a
TRS harness that has issues with the C Bar and Auto not working all the time.

Wayne
I honestly don't know. If you have a TRS harness and Forscan please try my
values and see what happens. You can skip the 45 and 50 addresses because the
DRL's will not work the TRS or RR harnesses at all.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Last edited by Ryan B; 09-12-2017 at 09:34 PM.
 
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09-12-2017, 09:51 PM
  #22  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfabes
OP, thanks for all the info. What year is your truck? Mine is a 2017 with BLIS
and when I set 726-26-02 xxxx xxx0 xxxx, my interior lights "strobe"...they
appear to go bright and dim like on a different frequency. I read on here this
pertains to 2017's only???

I have the RR harness and get the occasional C light not coming on with the
parking lights, do you know if any of the Forscan changes affect that? Reason I
ask is I haven't seen 726-29-01 xxxx xxxx x0xx mentioned in previous threads.

Finally, are 726-45-01 xxxx 11xx xxxx and 726-50-01 10xx only necessary if using
DRL's (which I do not)?
My truck is a 2016. I only have data on one 502A 2017 and never really looked at
it until now. It is programmed different then the 2016's. If you want, PM your
VIN number and I see what I can come up with. You are correct, 726-45-01 and
726-50-01 are for DRLs.
 
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09-19-2017, 02:00 AM
  #23  
Raptor2016
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Come On Man....

 
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09-19-2017, 03:15 AM
  #24  
Neckbone
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Doesn't the morimoto and/or raptor retrofit harness accomplish the same thing?
Albeit for $300......
 
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09-19-2017, 08:45 AM
  #25  
Ryan B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptor2016
Come On Man....

Sorry, I didn't take a bunch of pictures while I was doing it. There really
isn't that much to see honestly. If I have it apart again, I'll snap some pics.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Neckbone
Doesn't the morimoto and/or raptor retrofit harness accomplish the same thing?
Albeit for $300......


Not really, the TRS and RR harnesses are Band-Aid solutions. As many members
have said, they still have problems with the C-lights shutting off and DRL's not
working. The way I did it, adding wires from the BCM and reprogramming the BCM,
mirrors the way Ford built the LED trucks. My DRL's always work and my C-Lights
have never shut off unexpectedly.


If somebody has a TRS/RR swap already and has Forscan, I'd love to work with
them to try some BCM settings to see if we can make their setup more reliable.
 
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09-19-2017, 10:39 AM
  #26  
Havyek
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Anyone with a Canadian truck done this?

I would expect the DRL wire should already be run since CAN vehicles require
DRLs.
 
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09-20-2017, 12:14 AM
  #27  
steve392
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OUTSTANDING!!! I knew there had to be a way to do this without that stupid
morimoto wiring harness.
 
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09-25-2017, 01:05 AM
  #28  
JustSpeed7
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I just ordered a pair of raptor headlights and morimoto harnesses, has anybody
using their harnesses changed the values in forscan and fix the issues?
 
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09-25-2017, 10:13 AM
  #29  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustSpeed7
I just ordered a pair of raptor headlights and morimoto harnesses, has anybody
using their harnesses changed the values in forscan and fix the issues?


What year is your truck? If it's a 2017, changing the values with Forscan won't
fix the issues caused by the harnesses.
 
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09-25-2017, 10:44 AM
  #30  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustSpeed7
I just ordered a pair of raptor headlights and morimoto harnesses, has anybody
using their harnesses changed the values in forscan and fix the issues?
While it won't fix the issues with auto lamps, this should eliminate the need
for resistors. I have the Raptor Retrofit harness and am going to further
investigate the Forscan changes to explore making BCM changes and then cutting
out the resistors in the harnesses.
 
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