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Showing posts with label fitting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fitting. Show all posts
8 JUNE 2024
FITTING THE NELL BLOUSE + DRESS
Ready to make our new Nell blouse + dress pattern and want to know how to get a
great fit? Well, you're in the right place!
Nell is available in printed and layered PDF formats, in sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30
/ EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34.
Nell is designed to be loose-ish fitting, with bust darts to give some shaping
to the bodice, quite a bit of ease at the waist, and a swishy, gathered skirt.
All of this means that the pattern is pretty simple to fit, and so you might
find you only need to make a couple of adjustments, or perhaps none at all!
In this post, we're going to cover:
* Making a toile
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine pattern sizes
* How to do bust adjustments for a bust darted bodice
* How to do wide and narrow shoulder adjustments
READ ON »»»
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Labels: adjustments, fitting, fitting adjustments, fitting tips, Nell
12 MARCH 2024
FITTING THE THEA TROUSERS
Are you planning on making the Thea trousers and want some extra help on how to
get a great fit? Then look no further as this post is for you.
Thea is a pair of high waisted, wide leg trousers with a choice of two lengths
and multiple pocket variations. As we're all different shapes and sizes, there
are various adjustments we can do to improve the fit of our me-mades. In this
blog post we're going to cover the most common adjustments you may want to
consider making to your Thea trousers, but bear in mind you probably won't need
to do all of them, or even any at all!
In this post we're going to cover:
* Making a toile
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine pattern sizes
* Other common trouser fitting adjustments
READ ON »»»
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Labels: combine sizes, fitting, lengthen, pants, shorten, Thea, trousers
7 MARCH 2024
COMMON TROUSER FITTING ADJUSTMENTS
Do you like the idea of making trousers or pants, but feel a little nervous
about the prospect of fitting them? Well, fear not, as help is here! This blog
post will cover the most common fitting adjustments you may need to make when
sewing trousers.
Now, before we go any further, please shake off any ideas you may have about
making a perfect, crease-free pair of trousers. They simply don’t exist.
Well-fitting trousers allow you room to sit down comfortably, breathe, eat, and
to live your best life. They will crease where you bend and move, and will allow
you space to do so. Basically, don’t get hung up on eliminating every crease and
line – it’s impossible!
With that in mind, we've covered a few different fitting adjustments here, but
don't feel like you have to try them all! You may not need to make any
alterations to your pattern, or perhaps you feel you need to do just one or two
tweaks.
DO I NEED TO MAKE A TOILE?
If you're not sure whether you'll need to make some alterations, or even what
adjustments you might need, it's a good idea to make a "toile" - a mock-up
garment in a similar weight fabric you don't mind using to test the fit - so you
can see how a particular pattern works on you. We have a comprehensive blog post
about toile making. Go check it out if you want to find out more!
Making a toile is more important if you're making something with a close-fitting
crotch and bum area, like the Thea trousers, but not always essential if you're
making a looser fitting garment, such as the Esti trousers or shorts or the
Safiya trousers - unless you know you usually need to make lots of adjustments.
For looser fitting trousers, you might want to make a "wearable toile", perhaps
in an inexpensive but pretty fabric that you won't mind wearing if it all works
out beautifully.
Ready to dive in and learn how to do some common trouser fitting adjustments?
Let's go...
HOW DO I ADD MORE ROOM TO THE STOMACH AREA? AKA A FULL TUMMY ADJUSTMENT
READ ON »»»
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Labels: adjustments, fitting, pants, sewing pattern, trousers
16 OCTOBER 2023
FITTING THE SONNY JACKET
If you're thinking of making the Sonny jacket and have a few questions about how
to get a great fit, you've come to the right place.
Sonny is an ultra-versatile jacket with a relaxed, boxy fit, making it simple to
fit. Good stuff! However, as we are all wonderfully unique in shape and size,
you might want to make a few changes to your pattern pieces to make it suit your
body better. Here, I'm going to talk you through the most common fitting
adjustments you might want to consider making to your Sonny jacket.
In this post we're going to cover:
* Making a toile
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine pattern sizes
MAKING A TOILE
A toile - or a "muslin"- is an initial mock-up of your garment in fabric you
don't mind using for testing purposes. A toile is a great opportunity to test
the fit of a sewing pattern or practice a technique, like inserting a collar,
before you cut into your nice fabric.
The Sonny jacket is a relaxed fit, meaning you don't necessarily need to make a
toile for fitting purposes. If you're planning on wearing your favourite chunky
knit under your Sonny and want to check it will be comfortable, we recommend
making a quick toile of the front and back bodice pieces and sleeves to check
the fit. Pick a fabric with a similar weight and drape to the fabric you have in
mind for your final project.
We have a comprehensive blog post about toile making. Go check it out if you
want to find out more!
Choosing your size
READ ON »»»
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Labels: fitting, jacket, lining, sonny
31 MAY 2023
HOW TO DO BUST ADJUSTMENTS FOR A BUST DARTED BODICE
Do you ever wish your me-mades fit better across the bust? Do you find that
excess fabric seems to pool around your bust, or that it's too tight? Ever think
that the bust darts point in the wrong place on your garments? If you're finding
yourself nodding enthusiastically in agreement to any of these statements, then
you probably need to do a bust adjustment to your bodice pattern pieces.
It's Nikki here, Product Manager and fitting geek at Tilly and the Buttons, and
I'm going to to talk you through how to do a full bust adjustment, a small bust
adjustment and how to move the dart on a bust darted bodice.
Now, before we go any further I'd like to give you a little positive pattern pep
talk. There are a few diagrams in this post, but whilst they might look quite
daunting, they are relatively simple if you follow them step by step :)
How do I know if I need a bust adjustment?
There's a technical and a not-so-technical answer here! The answer depends on
your own unique shape and the fit of the garment - you may not need to do a bust
adjustment to a loose top or dress, but might have to do one on something more
fitted. If you find that things are generally either too tight or too loose in
the bust area, then I'd recommend making a quick toile of the bodice, or
wearable toile of the whole garment to test the fit around the bust and take it
from there. I'm going to briefly cover how you would work out how much to add or
subtract from your bust in the adjustment, but do remember this is just a rough
framework, and you might not need to do it at all.
Measure your high bust (your upper chest, just under your armpits). If you're
making one of our patterns that comes in sizes UK 6-24, or which comes in sizes
UK 6-34 and you're making size 6-16, add 5cm (2in). If you're making one of our
patterns that is in sizes 16-34, or which comes in sizes 6-34 and you're making
size 18-34, add 10cm (4in). Choose the pattern size with that bust measurement –
this is the size you’ll do your bust adjustment on.
Now measure your full bust (fullest part, around the nipples) and compare it to
the bust measurement on the pattern size you just selected.
If your full bust is 5cm (2in) smaller than the pattern, you’ll be subtracting
5cm (2in) from the pattern; if it’s 7.5cm (3in) bigger, you’ll be adding 7.5cm
(3in) and so on. If you need to make the bust bigger, you'll need to do a full
bust adjustment (FBA) and if you need to make it smaller, you'll need to do a
small bust adjustment (SBA).
Since the front bodice pattern represents one half of the top, as the fabric is
cut on the fold - or one boob - you'll be adding or subtracting half of that
difference. So, if you want to do a 5cm (2in) full bust adjustment, you'll need
to add 2.5cm (1in) to the pattern piece.
There are a few ways in which you can do a bust adjustment, but the method I'm
going to show you today is the "slash and spread" method. It sounds a bit
aggressive but this just means that you do the adjustment by cutting into your
pattern piece and either spread it apart to create more space at the bust, or
overlap it to make it smaller.
To do a bust adjustment you will need:
* a ruler (or pattern master if you have one)
* glue stick and/or sticky tape
* pencil
* paper scissors
* extra paper
As you'll be merrily snipping into your pattern piece with wild abandon for
these adjustments, I thoroughly suggest tracing off the front bodice pattern
piece so you can keep the original one intact in case you need to make any
further adjustments. Make sure you trace all the notches, the dart and 'lengthen
or shorten here' lines onto the new pattern piece.
Got your scissors and ruler at the ready? Ok, let's go. And remember, you've got
this!
Full bust and small bust adjustments
READ ON »»»
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Labels: bust adjustments, FBA, fitting, fitting adjustments, full bust
adjustment, move dart, SBA, small bust adjustment
3 APRIL 2023
FITTING THE MABEL BLOUSE AND DRESS
Crushing on the Mabel dress and blouse pattern but not sure how to get a great
fit? In this blog post we're going to talk you through the most common fitting
adjustments you might (or might not!) want to make.
Mabel is a dream sewing pattern. Not only does it look sensational (OK, we might
be a little biased), it's relatively easy to fit too. The blousey bodice,
elasticated shirred waist, and wide skirt offer comfort and ease in the bust,
waist and hip areas, so don't require close fitting. The areas that might need
tweaking, depending on your body, are the elastic length in the shoulders and
neckline, and we'll explain how you can do this below.
In this post we're going to cover:
* Making a toile
* Choosing your size
* Do I need a full bust adjustment (FBA)?
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine sizes
* How to adjust the neckline and shoulders
* How to adjust the sleeve shirring
* Checking the hem balance
Making a toile
A toile - or a "muslin"- is an initial mock up of your garment in fabric you
don't mind using for testing purposes - pick something similar weight and drape
to the fabric you have in mind for your final project. Making a toile is a great
opportunity to test the fit of a sewing pattern, or practise a technique on
sacrificial fabric before you cut into the nice fabric you have lovingly chosen
and purchased for your project.
For Mabel, we recommend you make a toile to check the lengths of the elastic
around the shoulders and neckline. Or how about making a "wearable toile" - this
is a practice garment in fabric that you don't mind ditching if the fit isn't
quite right, but you like enough to wear just in case it fits you well first
time. You'll want to check the fit of the bodice, sleeves and peplum, so the top
version is perfect for a wearable toile.
Tilly has also written a fab blog post about toile making if you want to know
more.
Choosing your size
Mabel includes all 15 sizes in our range. Pattern sizes 1-6 (UK 6-16) and 7-15
(UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded separately to create a better
fit. For this reason, you may notice the proportions change in the measurements
chart and the shaping is slightly different on the pattern pieces – sizes 7-15
include room for a larger bust (10cm/4in difference between high bust and full
bust, as opposed to 5cm/2in difference on sizes 1-6) and a bit more room at the
waist.
To find your size, using a flexible tape measure, measure the circumference of
your:
* Bust - take the measurement at the fullest point i.e. around your nipples
* Waist - where you bend at the side
* Hips - the fullest part - it helps to turn to the side and look in a mirror
to see where this is
Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor - it can help to turn to
the side and look in a mirror to check.
READ ON »»»
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Labels: fitting, fitting adjustments, mabel
3 FEBRUARY 2023
FITTING THE AGNES SEWING PATTERN
Making the Agnes top and want some extra tips on fitting? This post will cover
the most common fitting adjustments you may need when sewing Agnes.
Agnes is now available in printed and PDF formats sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR
34-62 / AUS 6-34. As it's designed to be made in stretchy jersey, it's
relatively simple to fit.
In this post we're going to cover:
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening the bodice or sleeve
* Combining sizes or resizing the bust
* Widening or narrowing the shoulder
* Changing the neckline
* Narrowing or widening the sleeve
However, don't think you have to make all of these adjustments - you may need
one or two, or maybe none at all!
READ ON »»»
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Labels: agnes, fitting, fitting adjustments, fitting tips, jersey, sewing
pattern
25 JANUARY 2023
HOW TO COMBINE PATTERN SIZES
Do your bust, waist or hip measurements fall across different sizes? If so, you
can "grade" between sizes to get a perfect fit. Hooray! It's Nikki here, Product
Manager and self-confessed fitting nerd here at Tilly and the Buttons, and in
this post I'm going to cover how to combine sizes on pattern pieces.
One of the best things about sewing is that you can create clothes that fit your
unique body shape. If you have bust, waist and hip measurements that are
different sizes, like me, you'll probably have stood in a clothes shop fitting
room before, surrounded by a pile of clothes that are too loose on top and too
tight across your hips, or vice-versa. Luckily, when it comes to making your own
clothes, you can combine pattern sizes to make parts of the garment bigger or
smaller to give you a truly bespoke fit.
When should I combine pattern sizes?
Now, it might be tempting to combine sizes for the bust, waist and hips on all
your patterns, but depending on the fit of the garment you don't always need to
do this.
If you're making a looser fitting garment or a garment that is looser fitting in
some areas, you might not need to combine sizes at all. A looser fitting garment
will have a lot of "positive ease", meaning the garment (or parts of it) will be
much bigger than your body, so a few inches difference in that area won't make
much difference to the overall fit.
So for example, if you're making something with a fitted bust and loose waist
and hips, like the Indigo top and dress pattern, and your waist measurement is 2
or 3 sizes different to your bust, then you probably won't need to make any
alterations here. The same applies to the hip measurement - the skirt is loose
and flowy so a few sizes difference between your body measurements won't affect
the fit of the garment. However, if your bust and waist span across more than 3
sizes you might want to consider grading between sizes.
On the other hand, if you're making a garment that is designed to have a closer
fit, like the Ness skirt or Etta dress, you will want to grade between sizes at
the bust, waist and hip, where applicable, as there is much less ease in these
areas.
Please do bear in mind though, if your bust measurement is particularly smaller
or larger than the body measurement of the size you have picked, then you might
need to do a bust adjustment, as well as combine sizes. Check out our bust
adjustments post (coming soon!) for more info!
Most sewing patterns will list the finished garment measurements in their
instructions, so if you're a bit unsure whether you need to combine sizes,
comparing them against your body measurements will help you decide :)
READ ON »»»
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Labels: combining sizes, fitting, fitting adjustments, grading between sizes,
tips
16 NOVEMBER 2022
HOW TO LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN A SEWING PATTERN
Do you have a particularly long or short torso, legs or arms? If this sounds
like you, you might want to consider lengthening or shortening your sewing
patterns to get a better fit.
It's Nikki here, and today I'm going to talk you through lengthening or
shortening pattern pieces. The first set of diagrams below show a bodice, which
you can adjust if you have a long or short upper body, but you can use the same
technique on loads of pattern pieces - trouser legs or skirts if you have long
or short legs, sleeves if you have long or short arms, you name it. I’ll also
talk you through how to lengthen or shorten the rise on trouser and shorts
patterns. This is one of the great things about sewing - you can adjust just the
parts you need to get a garment to fit your unique shape.
If you are lengthening a pattern piece that has a matching pair or facing that
will be affected by the length - for example, a front bodice will often join a
back bodice and sometimes a front opening facing - make the same adjustment to
the matching pattern pieces, else you'll end up with a wonky garment (not cool).
Ready? Let's get stuck in to...
HOW TO LENGTHEN A SEWING PATTERN
If you want to lengthen your pattern piece, cut along the bottom "lengthen or
shorten" line, to separate your pattern pieces into two.
READ ON »»»
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Labels: fitting, fitting tips, Indigo, lengthen, lengthening pattern pieces,
shorten, shortening pattern pieces
14 SEPTEMBER 2022
FITTING THE MARNIE BLOUSE AND MINI DRESS
Fallen head over heels for our Marnie blouse and mini dress pattern and want a
helping hand on how to get a great fit? You’ve come to the right place 😊
The Marnie blouse and mini dress is suitable for improver sewers and is
available in both printed and PDF formats in sizes UK 6-34 (US 2-30 / EUR 34-62
/ AUS 6-34). The easy-breezy, swishy design makes for a finished garment with
lots of ease, which means not only is Marnie great for twirling in, it's also
pretty simple to fit - yay!
Here, I'll talk you through the most common fitting adjustments you might want
to consider for your Marnie blouse or dress. However, please bear in mind that
Marnie is designed to be easy-fitting and floaty, so you might find you only
need to make a couple of our suggested adjustments, or perhaps none at all!
In this post, we're going to cover:
* Making a toile
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine pattern sizes
* Fitting the bust area
* How to do wide and narrow shoulder adjustment
READ ON »»»
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Labels: fitting, fitting adjustments, fitting tips, marnie
22 JUNE 2022
FITTING CORALIE
Making the Coralie swimwear and need a little extra help getting the fit just
right? Well, you've come to the right place! This post will cover the most
common fitting adjustments you might want to consider for your Coralie.
The Coralie swimwear, designed in collaboration with Hannah from Evie la Lùve,
is a simple-to-sew, versatile swimwear pattern with multiple versions to choose
from. Oh and did we mention it’s got ruffles too?! With so many gorgeous
variations to sew we best get cracking!
Our bodies are all wonderfully different and part of the joy of making our own
clothes, lingerie and swimwear is that we can customise them completely to our
shape and not have to settle with something that "kinda fits" bought from a
shop. As with all sewing patterns, to get a perfect fit on the Coralie pattern,
you may find you need to tweak the pattern a little bit before cutting out your
fabric.
For best results, we recommend making a test swimsuit or bikini – AKA a “toile”
– first before sewing in any special or expensive fabrics to check size and fit.
It’s super important when making your toile that you use a fabric that has the
same amount of stretch and recovery in both directions as the fabric you plan to
make your final swimwear from. If it has a different stretch percentage,
unfortunately it’s almost pointless making a test garment as it will fit
differently. So make sure the stretch percentage is the same before you start,
to save wasting your time and fabric! The fabric you use needs to have at least
50% stretch both widthways and lengthways. (Check out the supplies section in
the online workshop for how to measure stretch percentage.)
In this post we’re going to cover:
• Choosing your size
• Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
• How to combine pattern sizes for different bust, waist and hip measurements
• Full bust adjustment
• Fixing a gaping seam
• Adjusting the leg height
• A quick fix for straps that are too long
HOW DO I CHOOSE MY SEWING PATTERN SIZE?
Taking accurate measurements is the first step in making sure that your swimwear
will fit. The three measurements you will need to determine your size are your
bust, waist and hip measurements.
Using a flexible tape measure, find the circumference of your:
• Bust – the fullest part of your bust, ie. around your nipples
• Waist – the narrowest point around your middle, where you bend at the side
• Hips – the fullest part of your bum (not around your hip bones, as the name
suggests, which is higher up)
Check the tape measure is sitting level with the floor all the way around. It
can help to turn to the side and look in a mirror to check.
READ ON »»»
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Labels: coralie, fitting, swimwear
30 MARCH 2022
ERIN DUNGAREES SEWALONG: PREPARING YOUR PATTERN & FITTING
Making the Erin dungarees and looking for a few tips on fitting? Welcome to the
next step of the Erin dungarees sewalong, supported by Janome. Erin is our
latest Tilly and the Buttons sewing pattern and it's an extra special one
because it's our first sewing pattern to be printed up to a size UK 34!
Are you following the Erin sewalong? By this point, you'll have been introduced
to Erin and will have gathered your supplies and seen our dreamy sewing
inspiration boards. Now it's time to get ready to start your project and make
any fitting tweaks.
Erin is designed to be loose-fitting, with a lowline waist and crotch, and
adjustable straps which allow for a flexible fit - so hopefully any changes you
want to make will be minimal - yay!
In this part of the Erin sewalong we'll cover:
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine pattern sizes
* How to make common trouser fitting adjustments
FOLLOW THE ERIN SEWALONG!
CHOOSING YOUR SIZE
Erin is the first TATB printed pattern to include all 15 sizes in our range. The
updated sizing merges our former UK 6-24 and UK 16-34 size patterns to make one
pattern in sizes UK 6-34 (US 2-30 / EUR 34-62 / AUS 6-34) that is available in
both print and PDF formats.
Sizes 1-6 (UK 6-16) and 7-15 (UK 18-34) have been drafted, fitted and graded
separately to create a better fit. For this reason, you may notice the
proportions change in the measurements chart and the shaping is slightly
different on the pattern pieces – sizes 7-15 include room for a larger bust
(10cm/4in difference between high bust and full bust, as opposed to 5cm/2in
difference on sizes 1-6) and a bit more room at the waist.
To find your size, measure your bust, waist and hips, by which we mean:
- fullest part of your bust
- waist where you bend at the side
- fullest part of your hips and bum
Make sure you're holding the tape measure parallel to the floor all the way
around.
Circle your nearest measurements on the measurements chart in the pattern
instructions. If all fall into one size cut that one… But it's totally normal to
fall into different sizes - you can create a bespoke shape for you by “grading”
between sizes, which we will come onto in a minute.
Bear in mind the style of the pattern is loose-fitting, so grading isn't always
essential. Take a look at the finished measurements chart above to understand
how Erin will fit when it's finished.
READ ON »»»
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Labels: erin, fitting, janome, sewalong
16 FEBRUARY 2022
FIVE WAYS TO FIX A GAPING NECKLINE
Have you ever sewn a garment only to try it on and find the neckline is sitting
away from your body? Fear not, I'm going to share with you my five top tips on
how to fix a gaping neckline on a variety of garment styles, including high,
deep and wrap necklines, on both knit and woven fabrics.
1. Stabilise those seams! (woven or knit fabrics)
If you thought that stabilisers were just for kids' bikes, then think again! Ok
fine, you don't have to add actual wheels to your neckline, but stabilising a
neckline seam can help prevent it from stretching out both from sewing and wear.
This is a particularly good idea if you're making something with a bias-cut
(diagonal) neckline, such as the Alexa jumpsuit or Pearl cardigan.
For a woven fabric, try stay tape or twill tape, a flat woven ribbon that you
can buy in different widths. Stitch it to the neckline within the seam
allowance, close to where the stitching line will be.
For knits or woven fabrics, a great option is iron-on seam tape, AKA my new best
sewing pal. It has a slight stretch to it, making it super easy to apply to
curves and, as it's fusible, you don't need to sew a single stitch - just press
it in place, again, within the seam allowance and close to the stitching line.
If you don't have these to hand, cut iron-on interfacing into narrow strips and
use it the same way. This is a perfect way to use up interfacing scraps that
you've been hoarding.
2. Fabric recovery is your friend (knit fabrics)
All knit fabrics stretch to some extent - this is of course why we love wearing
them and what they are designed to do. But some will stretch whilst you wear
them and continue to stretch as the day goes on without snapping back to their
original size.
A fabric with good "recovery" returns to its original state after stretching,
without becoming baggy or distorted. Using a fabric with a good recovery is
especially important when making something with a neckline that you want to keep
the same shape and size, such as the wrap neckline on the Pearl cardigan or the
scoop neckline on the Agnes top, as it will help it keep its shape.
To check if a knit fabric has a good recovery, cut a swatch and measure it. Pull
the fabric lengthways and widthways a few times, then set it down and measure it
again. If it easily pings back to the same size, then this indicates it has a
good recovery - yay! If your swatch is left slightly bigger post stretching, it
indicates that the fabric doesn't have a good recovery and will most likely be
more prone to growing with wear.
3. Consider shortening the neckband (knit fabrics)
READ ON »»»
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Labels: adjustments, fitting, fix gaping neckline
28 JANUARY 2022
FITTING THE PEARL CARDIGAN
Are you planning on making the Pearl cardigan sewing pattern and want some extra
info and guidance on fitting? Well, you've come to exactly the right place! In
this blog post we're going to talk you through the most common fitting
adjustments you can make to your Pearl cardigan, if you feel like you need
them.
Pearl is available in printed and PDF formats sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR
34-62 / AUS 6-34.
Luckily, as Pearl is made from knit fabric (AKA everybody's fave fabric), and is
a wrap cardigan, you can tie it as loose or as tight as you like, it's
relatively easy to fit - yay! We've got a blog post in the coming weeks with
tips and tricks on how to fix a gapey neckline just in case you need a hand in
this department. Otherwise, keep reading for info on fitting Pearl!
In this post we're going to cover:
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening the bodice or sleeve
* How to combine different bust and waist sizes
* Full bust adjustment
* Small bust adjustment
Choosing your size
READ ON »»»
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Labels: cardigan, fitting, Pearl
17 NOVEMBER 2021
HOW TO SELECT YOUR SEWING PATTERN SIZE
Understanding sewing pattern sizes can give anyone a headache, especially if
you're a newbie to all this, but this blog post will break it down into
manageable chunks so you can confidently select your Tilly and the Buttons
sewing pattern size and get your sew on the road!
Whatever sewing pattern you're making, this post will outline how to choose the
size that actually fits you, how to combine multiple sizes, and how to avoid
patterns coming up larger or smaller than you expected. Along with handy links
to our in-depth fitting blog posts including full bust adjustments, shoulder
adjustments and more...
HOW DO YOU WORK OUT WHICH SIZE SEWING PATTERN TO CUT OUT?
Our sewing patterns are labelled with generic numbers from 1 up to 8, 10 or 15
(depending on the pattern), with the ready-to-wear sizing system (8, 10, 12 etc)
listed as a secondary reference point only.
This is because the ready-to-wear sizing system can cause a lot of confusion and
frustration, as the measurements vary between countries, between shops, and
between sewing pattern companies - we all know the pain of going jeans shopping!
While it may be useful when you’re shopping for clothes, it doesn’t seem to make
much sense when sewing our own clothes – when we should have more control over
fitting to our unique shape, size and bust-waist-hip ratio. We'd encourage you
to ignore “standard” sizes and instead look at the exact body measurements and
the finished garment measurements listed on our sewing patterns. This way we
have more control over getting a better fit rather than obsessing over a generic
number. Hooray!
READ ON »»»
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Labels: fitting, how to, learn to sew, sizing, tutorials
17 SEPTEMBER 2021
FITTING THE IRIS KNICKERS
Making the Iris knickers and need a little extra help getting the fit just
right? Well, you've come to the right place! This post will cover the most
common fitting adjustments you might want to consider for your Iris undies.
Iris is available in printed and PDF formats sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62
/ AUS 6-34.
The Iris knickers, designed in collaboration with Hannah from Evie la Lùve, are
a simple and versatile knickers pattern with a choice of low, mid and high leg
openings and waistlines that you can mix and match to create your fave style of
undies. This means there are 36 possible combinations!
With so many to sew we best get cracking...
The wonderful thing about sewing is that we can alter our makes to fit the
unique proportions of our bodies, getting a much better fit than anything we can
buy on the high street. We all have preferences as to how our clothes fit -
especially our undies! We sometimes suggest that you make a 'toile' aka a
practice garment when making a new pattern to test the fit.
As the Iris knickers are made from forgiving jersey and are quick and simple to
make, you might want to treat the first pair you make as a practice fit pair. If
they fit perfectly then that's great! If they need a couple of tweaks then you
can make some small adjustments for your next pair with one or some of the
following adjustments :)
In this post we're going to cover:
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine pattern sizes
* Adjusting the crotch width
READ ON »»»
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Labels: fitting, iris
21 JULY 2021
HOW TO DO BUST ADJUSTMENTS ON A PLEATED BODICE
Do you ever feel like your clothes would fit slightly better across the bust if
there was a little bit more fabric, or conversely a little bit less fabric in
that area? If this is something you agree with, then you might benefit from
doing a bust adjustment to your bodice pattern pieces.
You may already be familiar with doing adjustments on bust darted bodices,
dartless bodices and even on pattern pieces for knit fabrics. But what about
bodices with pleats at the waist?
After searching high and low on the internet and in my trusty fitting books, I
couldn't find anything that covered how to do bust adjustments on a pleated
bodice. As I wanted to do a full bust adjustment myself on my Skye sundress
pattern, I knew that other people would want to do one too. So, I had a play
around with the bodice, did some testing and came up with a system that has
worked for me. I mean that's the best thing about sewing isn't it - you can make
your own rules!
How do I know if I need a bust adjustment?
There's a technical and a not-so-technical answer here! The answer depends on
your own unique shape and the fit of the garment - you may not need to do a bust
adjustment to a loose top or dress, but might have to do one on something more
fitted. If you find that things are generally either too tight or too loose in
the bust area, then I'd recommend making a quick toile of the bodice, or
wearable toile of the whole garment to test the fit around the bust and take it
from there. I'm going to briefly cover how you would work out how much to add or
subtract from your bust in the adjustment, but do remember this is just a rough
framework, and you might not need to do it at all.
Measure your high bust (your upper chest, just under your armpits). If you're
making a pattern in our sizes UK 6-24 size band, add 5cm (2in). If you're making
a pattern in our sizes 16-34 size band, add 10cm (4in). Choose the pattern size
with that bust measurement – this is the size you’ll do your bust adjustment on.
Now measure your full bust (fullest part, around the nipples) and compare it to
the bust measurement on the pattern size you just selected.
If your full bust is 5cm (2in) smaller than the pattern, you’ll be subtracting
5cm (2in) from the pattern; if it’s 7.5cm (3in) bigger, you’ll be adding 7.5cm
(3in) and so on. If you need to make the bust bigger, you'll need to do a full
bust adjustment (FBA) and if you need to make it smaller, you'll need to do a
small bust adjustment (SBA).
Since the front bodice pattern represents one half of the top, as the fabric is
cut on the fold - or one boob - you'll be adding or subtracting half of that
difference. So, if you want to do a 5cm (2in) full bust adjustment, you'll need
to add 2.5cm (1in) in total to the pattern piece. We're going to add this
fullness, or subtract it inside the pleats, you'll need to divide the number of
you wish to add to or subtract from one half of the bodice between the number of
pleats you'll be adjusting - don't worry if this sounds a bit complicated, there
is more info below!
READ ON »»»
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Labels: fitting, fitting adjustments, full bust adjustment, pleated bodice,
skye, small bust adjustment, sundress, waist pleats
12 JULY 2021
FITTING THE SKYE SUNDRESS
Making the lovely Skye sundress and want a few hints and tips on fitting? Well
then, this post is for you! Skye is perfect for stitching newbies as it’s easy
to sew and fit – yay! This post will cover the most common fitting adjustments
you might want to consider for your Skye dress. However, don’t feel like you
need to do them all, or even any at all!
Skye is available in printed and PDF formats sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62
/ AUS 6-34.
Skye has an easy-fitting empire waist bodice, which is gently shaped with bust
pleats, and the neckline and armholes are finished on the inside with bias
binding. The neckline has a gorgeous, slightly square scoop shape, and is
designed to cover a bra, with a flowy, gathered skirt with mini-, knee- and
maxi-hem lengths to choose from. Of course, there are deep in-seam pockets too!
We sometimes recommend that you make a "toile" (or "muslin") - a practice
garment in cheap or spare fabric in a similar weight to the fabric you're going
to use for the final garment to test the fit - however, it's not strictly
necessary here. If you're unsure about your sizing and have some expensive
fabric lined up to make the dress in, you could make a quick toile of the bodice
to check the fit, leaving off the skirt. However, if you don't feel overly
precious about your fabric, then go for it!
In this post we're going to cover:
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine pattern sizes
* Bust adjustments
* How to do wide and narrow shoulder adjustments
READ ON »»»
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Labels: fitting, skye
14 APRIL 2021
FITTING THE LYRA SHIRT DRESS
Making the Lyra shirt dress and want a helping hand on how to get a great fit?
Well then, this post is right up your street!
Lyra is available in printed and PDF formats sizes UK 6-34 / US 2-30 / EUR 34-62
/ AUS 6-34.
Lyra has an oversized, blousy bodice with bust darts, quite a bit of ease at the
waist, and a flowy, gathered skirt. This means it not only looks ultra-cool (if
we do say so ourselves) but is also relatively simple to fit - yay!
In this post we're going to cover:
* Making a toile
* Choosing your size
* Lengthening or shortening pattern pieces
* How to combine pattern sizes
* How to do bust adjustments for a bust darted bodice
* How to do wide and narrow shoulder adjustments
Making a toile
READ ON »»»
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Labels: adjustments, fitting, lyra
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