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ABSOLUTE BEST TESTS


THE ABSOLUTE BEST WAY TO MAKE AN EGG SANDWICH

According to so many tests.

by: Ella Quittner
April  8, 2022
14 Comments
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In Absolute Best Tests, Ella Quittner destroys the sanctity of her home kitchen
in the name of the truth. She's seared more Porterhouse steaks than she cares to
recall, tasted enough stuffing for 10 Thanksgivings, and mashed so many potatoes
she may never mash one again. Today, she tackles the egg sandwich.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The breakfast sandwich has been around for far longer than you or your hangover.



In Breakfast: A History, Heather Arndt Anderson writes that the first recipe for
“a true breakfast sandwich” appears in an 1897 cookbook called “Breakfast,
Dinner and Supper.” The instructions are as follows:

“Use stale bread. Spread each slice with chopped meat; cover with another slice
and press together. Cut each sandwich in halves and place them on a plate. Have
ready a pint of milk, salted and mixed with 1 beaten egg. Pour this over the
sandwiches and let stand a few moments. Put a heaping teaspoonful of butter into
a frying pan and when it begins to brown place the sandwiches carefully upon it.
When nicely browned on one side add a little more butter, turn, and brown the
other side.”


JOIN THE CONVERSATION

Top Comment:
“Can't say that the sandwich appeals to me, but English muffins are absolutely
the best for just about any sandwich. Toasting them properly, though, is a bit
of an art.”
— Smaug
Comment

And before that came the bap. A humble British sandwich—“bap” typically refers
to a soft roll, which can be filled with eggs and meat—was commonplace as
breakfast for factory workers in 19th century London. (“Baps are where breakfast
sandwiches go to die,” said an American friend living in the U.K. when I reached
out for comment. An English friend shared that he “likes baps,” though he
admitted “they can be a bit bready.” He also noted that “bap” is slang for
“breast.” And “in some regions, it’s called a butty.” !!!!! Take me out, coach.)


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Overseas, the United States met the Denver sandwich—a Denver omelet (ham,
peppers, onions), in between pieces of bread—at least as early as 1907, or
possibly earlier according to James Beard. He wrote in American Cookery that it
may have been inspired by a version made by 19th century railroad workers,
derived from egg foo young.

Anderson credits McDonald’s 1972 release of the Egg McMuffin with the
proliferation of the American breakfast sandwich—eggs and meat, as opposed to
marmite on toast, or labneh and cucumbers on flatbread, and so on—far and wide.

Stateside, riffs have been endless and boundless. Perhaps one of the most
popular is the New York City bodega bacon, egg, and cheese on a roll. In New
Jersey, a breakfast sandwich admirer will find their egg accompanied by a slice
of Taylor ham, aka pork roll, aka please don’t slide into my DMs. In the
American South, it’s common to find an egg and sausage nestled between two
halves of a warm biscuit, sometimes smothered with gravy. In Los Angeles, the
upmarket breakfast sandwich has more recently had a long moment, with
establishments like Eggslut spawning all sorts of brioche-bunned, three-sauced
homage across the country.

Which is to say: There are infinite ways to jam an egg between a bready
carapace. And which is also to say: this latest installment of Absolute Best
Tests was perhaps the most difficult yet. I lost sleep winnowing down the list
of contenders. I dreamt that a TikTok tortilla served me with a lawsuit. What
follows is my attempt to try as many bread choices and egg preparations as my
tiny galley kitchen and my tiny galley mind could handle.

Get your hot sauce, girls, and let’s dive in.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


CONTROLS

I seasoned all egg sandwiches with Diamond Crystal kosher salt. As you’ll see in
each recipe section, I went absolutely bananas and paired each bread or egg
contender with different accoutrement, but please know and trust that I graded
every sandwich on the merit of the bread and/or egg. (I know that’s not how
science works, but we’re not really doing science here. You get that, right?)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


EQUIPMENT

Non-Stick Fry Pan: For slip-n-sliding fried eggs every which way.
Slotted Spatula or Fish Spatula: For the breeziest egg-removal missions.
Serrated Knife: Paging your bagels, kaiser rolls, croissants, and buns.
Combination Air Fryer & Toaster: Egg sandwiches never tasted so easy.
Oven Mitts: Grease burns, be gone.

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ROUND 1: BREAD


CONTROLS

I used fried eggs (over easy) for all of these trials.


FINDINGS


CROISSANT

Extremely hard to eat. I generally do not love a croissant as a structural
element, because either the croissant is technically great and flaky—in which
case you want to enjoy it without the distraction of yolky globs—or the
croissant is mediocre and soft, which means everything splooges out with the
first bite.


BRIOCHE BUN

A solid “fine.” The ratio of bread-to-stuff was much too high for me, despite
packing it with quite a bit of stuff. My real feelings? The brioche bun should
quietly tiptoe back into the domain of triple-portion salami, arugula, and
butter sandwiches, and stay there for a while.


KAISER ROLL

Oh, hell yeah. A much better bread ratio, perhaps because the crumb is airier
than that of a brioche bun, so it felt less like mouthing a bunch of wall
insulation. Plus, the Kaiser has a tougher crust, which helps those teeth get
momentum for big bites, and a generally pleasant and neutral flavor.


BAGEL

Obviously, it slapped hard. My main takeaway: the sturdier the components, the
better. For example, I did a few off-market tests in which I discovered I
preferred the bagel sandwich with fried eggs over scrambled or poached. And the
bagel stood up beautifully to bacon, or a thick sausage patty, but less well to
sautéed peppers or a thin swipe of tomato jam.


BISCUIT

Marry me, biscuit sandwich. I don’t need a ring, I don’t need an audience, I
will wear a dress made from paper napkins. How could the result not be so
fucking excellent when you are taking a breakfast sandwich and making it MORE
BUTTERY? It was the sandwich the croissant wished it could be, with soft, flakey
layers and a golden, crisp exterior that actually held up to the demands of the
job. Also! The ideal size for a sausage patty.

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SLICED BREAD

We know her, we love her. She lets fillings shine, and is a good size and shape,
and that’s about all there is to say about her.


ENGLISH MUFFIN

I have long held the belief that English muffins are underrated as the bread for
any sort of sandwich. (They are, for example, great as burger buns.) The same
applies to fried eggs. They aren’t overly bready, are just tough enough to hold
their structure when toasted, and the nooks and crannies are perfect for sauce
explosions and catching yolk drips. They also add a welcome little tang.


WAFFLE

This breakfast sandwich was a surprise. I wasn’t expecting great things, because
in my experience, waffles tend to steal the show. But the thin ones I used
(frozen Eggos) were actually the ideal size, shape, and thickness. (I suspect
proper Belgians would’ve overshadowed the interior.) Their texture also meant I
could cram in more sauce without it slipping right out, and, insanely, I found
myself noting that it provided “better grip” than some of the other options.

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JOJO’S BISCUITS

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FLUFFY BRIOCHE BUNS

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ENGLISH MUFFINS

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RECIPES


KAISER ROLL

1 kaiser roll 
2 slices American cheese
2 pieces cooked Taylor Ham
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter bread
2 large eggs
Kosher salt


 1. Slice a kaiser roll in half and set in a toaster oven or 350°F oven until
    lightly golden.Midway through, place both slices of cheese on one half to
    melt as the bread toasts.
    
 2. Meanwhile, fry the eggs: Set a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the
    butter. Once it begins to foam, crack and add the eggs, spaced a few inches
    apart (I like to crack into a bowl first in case of shell fragments). Fry
    for 3 to 4 minutes, basting with butter as they cook, until whites are set
    and just beginning to crisp up around the edges. Remove from heat and season
    with a big pinch of salt. 
    
 3. Remove the bread from the oven when the cheese is melted. Butter the bare
    side. Place Taylor Ham on top of the cheese, and the fried eggs on top of
    that, yolk-side up. Close the sandwich.
    


BRIOCHE BUN

1 brioche bun
2 slices cheddar
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter bread
1 large egg
Kosher salt
Finely chopped chives
1 crispy hash brown
Sriracha
 

 1. Slice a brioche bun in half and set in a toaster or 350°F oven until lightly
    golden. Midway through, place both slices of cheese on bottom half to melt
    as the bread toasts.
    
 2. Meanwhile, fry the egg: Set a small nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the
    butter. Once it begins to foam, crack and add the egg (I like to crack into
    a bowl first in case of shell fragments). Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, basting
    with butter as it cooks, until whites are set and just beginning to crisp up
    around the edges. Remove from heat and season with a big pinch of salt. 
    
 3. Remove the bread from the oven when the cheese is melted. Butter the bare
    side. Place crispy hash brown on top of cheese, and the fried egg on top of
    that, yolk-side up. Decorate liberally with chives and Sriracha. Close the
    sandwich.
    


BAGEL

1 everything bagel, halved
2 slices provolone 
3 pieces crispy bacon
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more for bagel
1 large egg
Kosher salt


 1. Set the bagel in a toaster oven or 350°F oven until lightly golden. Midway
    through, place both slices of cheese on one half to melt.
    
 2. Meanwhile, fry the egg: Set a small nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the
    butter. Once it begins to foam, crack and add egg (I like to crack into a
    bowl first in case of shell fragments). Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, basting with
    butter as it cooks, until whites are set and just beginning to crisp up
    around the edges. Remove from heat and season with a big pinch of salt. 
    
 3. Remove the bagel from the oven when the cheese is melted. Butter the bare
    side. Place the fried egg on top of cheese, yolk-side up, and bacon on top
    of that. Close the sandwich.
    

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HOMEMADE BAGELS

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CLASSIC CROISSANTS

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SNOOP DOGG'S BUTTERMILK WAFFLES

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SLICED BREAD

2 slices white bread
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter bread
2 slices provolone
2 pieces crispy bacon
2 large eggs
Kosher salt
Ketchup


 1. Butter both sides of each piece of bread and set in a toaster or 350°F oven
    until lightly golden. Midway through, place both slices of cheese on one
    half to melt as the bread toasts.
    
 2. Meanwhile, fry the eggs: Set a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the
    butter. Once it begins to foam, add each cracked egg a few inches apart (I
    like to crack eggs into a bowl first in case of shell-fragments). Fry for 3
    to 4 minutes, basting with butter as they cook, until whites are set and
    just beginning to crisp up around the edges. Remove from heat and season
    with a big pinch of salt. 
    
 3. Remove the bread from the oven when the cheese is melted. Add a generous
    amount of ketchup to the bare slice. Place the bacon on top of the cheese,
    and fried eggs on top of that, yolk-side up. Close the sandwich.
    


ENGLISH MUFFIN

1 English muffin, halved
2 slices American cheese
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter muffins
1 large egg
Kosher salt
1 country-style sausage (round or roughly round and smashed into a patty)
1 tablespoon mayo
2 teaspoons chili garlic sauce or sambal oelek 


 1. Set the English muffin in a toaster or 350°F oven until lightly golden.
    Midway through, place both slices of cheese on one half to melt as the bread
    toasts.
    
 2. Meanwhile, fry the egg: Set a small nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the
    butter. Once it begins to foam, crack and add the egg (I like to crack eggs
    into a bowl first in case of shell fragments). Fry for 3 to 4 minutes,
    basting with butter as it cooks, until whites are set and just beginning to
    crisp up around the edges. Remove from heat and season with a big pinch of
    salt. 
    
 3. Mix together mayo and chili sauce. 
    
 4. Remove the English muffin from the oven when the cheese is melted. Spread
    the spicy mayo on the bare side. Place sausage on top of cheese, and fried
    egg on top of that, yolk-side up. Close the sandwich. 
    


WAFFLE 

2 square or personal-sized waffles, toasted if frozen 
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter waffle
2 slices pepper Jack
1 large egg
Kosher salt
2 slices deli honey-glazed ham
Mayo
Chile crisp


 1. Butter both sides of each waffle and set one on a rimmed pan in an oven
    preheated to 300°F. Place both slices of cheese on the waffle to melt.
    
 2. Meanwhile, fry the egg: Set a small nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the
    butter. Once it begins to foam, crack and add the egg (I like to crack into
    a bowl first in case of shell fragments). Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, basting
    with butter as it cooks, until whites are set and just beginning to crisp up
    around the edges. Remove from heat and season with a big pinch of salt. 
    
 3. Remove waffle half from the oven when the cheese is melted. Add the ham on
    top of cheese, and the fried egg on top of that, yolk-side up. On the bare
    waffle, spread the mayo. Drizzle chile crisp all over the egg. Close the
    sandwich. 
    


BISCUIT

1 very flaky biscuit, halved
1 cooked sausage patty
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more for bagel
1 large egg
Kosher salt
Hot honey 
Cholula 


 1. Fry the egg: Set a small nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the butter. Once
    it begins to foam, crack and add the egg (note: I like to crack into a bowl
    first in case of shell fragments). Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, basting with
    butter as it cooks, until whites are set and just beginning to crisp up
    around the edges. Remove from heat and season with a big pinch of salt. 
    
 2. Butter the insides of the biscuit. Place the sausage on top of bottom half,
    followed by the egg yolk-side up, and hot honey on top of that. Close the
    sandwich.
    


CROISSANT

1 plain croissant, halved
2 slices Gruyère 
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter
2 large eggs
Kosher salt
2 slices ham 
1/4 cup baby spinach
½ avocado, sliced


 1. Set the croissant in a toaster or TK°F oven until lightly golden. Midway
    through, place both slices of cheese on one half to melt.
    
 2. Meanwhile, fry the eggs: Set a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the
    butter. Once it begins to foam, crack and add the eggs, spaced a few inches
    apart (note: I like cracking into a bowl first in case of shell fragments).
    Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, basting with butter as they cook, until the whites
    are set and just beginning to crisp up around the edges. Remove from heat
    and season with a big pinch of salt. 
    
 3. Place the ham on the bare half of the croissant, followed by the spinach,
    then the egg yolk-side up, and the avocado on top of that. Close the
    sandwich.
    

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ROUND 2: EGGS


CONTROLS

I used sliced bread for all of these in an initial set of trials, and then did
some side trials with other breads to test out various hypotheses. Yes, I know
how that sounds.


FINDINGS


SOFT-SCRAMBLED

There is very little to complain about when it comes to a properly
soft-scrambled egg—it is creamy, lucious, and each bite has a satisfying heft.
As much was true for soft-scrambled eggs on a breakfast sandwich. The only
caveat I’ll share is that eggs prepared this way were better with a studier,
wider bread (like the sliced bread, waffle, and bagel) than they were with
flimsy or smaller carby vessels (like the croissant and English muffin), for
obvious reasons.


OMELET

A delight, with the key high points being consistency (same flavor, texture, and
thickness of egg in each bite) and manageability (didn’t faff around every which
way as if being leaf-blown, like the scrambled boys).


FRIED

The obvious best parts of fried eggs are the runny yolks and crispy edges. If
those appeal to you, this is the way to go. It was also the most versatile
besides the omelet in terms of bread pairings.


BAKED EGG SOUFFLÉ

This method required quite a bit more active time, helicopter parenting, and
dishwashing than the others, but the result was an abundance of attractive and
sprightly egg patties with a texture somewhere between gyeran jjim and
McMuffin-took-a-chill-pill. I would parade this method around again if I were
hosting a large brunch, with egg sandwiches for all.


POACHED

Eh. I love a poached egg, but the effort of preparing them just to smash them
between bread made me wonder why I wasn’t just taking the easy road and frying
them.


AIR-FRIED

There are many things you can make in an air fryer, but few which are actually
superior (see: Buffalo wings). Egg sandwiches do not fall into that category.
There’s too much arrangement, checking, and poking necessary. Breakfast
sandwiches should be breezy. Lugging out an air fryer is anything but.


EGG SALAD MELT

This method called for a sort of quick egg salad, topped with cheese in an
open-faced melt. And it was pretty good. I love mayonnaise, which was a key
feature. I probably could have done without the broiled cheese and simply topped
with freshly cracked pepper and chopped chives. Or, more mayo.


HARD SCRAMBLED

True scrambled eggs are fully set and dry to the touch, no longer glistening or
loose. Why scramble when you could soft scramble? Really, why?


RECIPES


SOFT-SCRAMBLED

2 slices white bread
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter bread
2 slices American cheese
2 large eggs
Kosher salt
1 heaping tablespoon cream cheese


 1. Butter both sides of each piece of bread and set in a toaster or 350°F oven
    until lightly golden. Midway through, place both slices of cheese on one
    half to melt as the bread toasts.
    
 2. Meanwhile, scramble eggs: In a bowl, whisk the eggs with a big pinch of
    salt. Heat butter in a small nonstick pan over medium heat. Once it begins
    to foam, add the eggs and cook, whisking constantly, until they have set in
    small curds and are beginning to look dry, about 1 minute. Immediately
    remove from heat and whisk in cream cheese.
    
 3. Remove the bread from the oven when the cheese is melted. Spoon the eggs on
    top of the cheese. Close the sandwich and flip it over so the cheese is on
    top. 
    


HARD SCRAMBLED

2 slices white bread
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter bread
2 slices American cheese
2 large eggs
Kosher salt


 1. Butter both sides of each piece of bread and set in a toaster or 350°F oven
    until lightly golden. Midway through, place both slices of cheese on one
    half to melt as the bread toasts.
    
 2. Meanwhile, scramble the eggs: In a bowl, whisk the eggs with a big pinch of
    salt. Heat the butter in a small nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Once it
    begins to foam, add the eggs and cook, whisking constantly, until they have
    set in large curds, about 1 minute. Immediately remove from heat while they
    still look glossy.
    
 3. Remove the bread from the oven when the cheese is melted. Spoon the eggs on
    top of cheese. Close the sandwich. 
    


OMELET

2 slices white bread
2 tablespoons ghee, plus more for bread
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon whole milk
¼ small yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 green chile, seeded and finely chopped
2 sprigs cilantro, finely chopped
1 pinch chile powder
1 pinch freshly ground black pepper
1 pinch kosher salt


 1. Spread ghee on both sides of each piece of bread and set in a toaster or
    350°F oven until lightly golden. 
    
 2. Meanwhile, make the omelet: In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and milk. Add
    the onion, chile, cilantro, black pepper, chile powder, turmeric, and salt
    to the bowl and stir to combine.
    
 3. In a small nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, warm the ghee. When hot,
    reduce the heat to medium-low and add the egg mixture to the pan, swirling
    so it completely covers the surface of the pan. Cook the omelet for 2
    minutes, until the underside is lightly browned. Flip the omelet and cook
    the other side for another 2 minutes, until browned. Transfer the omelet to
    a plate.
    4 Remove the bread from the oven when golden and sandwich the omelet in
    between the two slices. Close the sandwich and cut vertically into two
    triangles.
    

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BREAKFAST EGG SALAD

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CRISPY KIMCHI AND CHEDDAR OMELETTE

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MAPLE-POACHED EGGS

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FRIED

2 slices white bread
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter bread
2 slices provolone
2 pieces crispy bacon
2 large eggs
Kosher salt
Ketchup


 1. Butter both sides of each piece of bread and set in a toaster or 350°F oven
    until lightly golden. Midway through, place both slices of cheese on one
    half to melt as the bread toasts.
    
 2. Meanwhile, fry the eggs: Set a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the
    butter. Once it begins to foam, crack and add the eggs, spaced a few inches
    apart (I like cracking the eggs into a bowl first in case of shell
    fragments). Fry for 3 to 4 minutes, basting with butter as they cook, until
    whites are set and just beginning to crisp up around the edges. Remove from
    heat and season with a big pinch of salt.  
 3. Remove the bread from the oven when the cheese is melted. Add a generous
    amount of ketchup to the bare slice. Place the bacon on top of cheese, and
    fried eggs on top of that, yolk-side up. Close the sandwich.
    


BAKED EGG SOUFFLÉ

2 slices white bread
Unsalted or salted butter
2 slices fontina 
9 large eggs
3/4 cup half-and-half
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 pinch freshly ground black pepper
2 slices cooked Canadian bacon
Mayo, mixed with minced chipotles, hot sauce, or chile paste
2 pepperoncini, stems removed, seeded, and sliced into rings


 1. Make the eggs: Heat the oven to 300°F. Coat the bottom and sides of a
    8x8-inch cake pan with nonstick spray or liberally coat the bottom and sides
    with vegetable oil.
    
 2. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs together until blended. Whisk in the
    half-and-half and salt until combined. Pour the egg mixture into the
    prepared cake pan.
    
 3. Place the cake pan in a roasting pan, and place the roasting pan on the
    center oven rack. Pour hot water into the roasting pan to reach halfway up
    the sides of the cake pan. This water bath will ensure that the egg souffle
    will cook slowly and evenly. Drape a piece of aluminum foil over the cake
    pan or place a baking sheet directly on top of it, then carefully slide in
    the oven rack and close the oven door. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, then
    remove the foil or baking sheet and sprinkle the pepper and thyme evenly
    over the top. Cover again and continue baking for about 20 minutes longer,
    or until the center of the egg mixture is just barely set and no longer
    wiggles when you jiggle the pan.
    
 4. Remove both pans from the oven, and carefully remove the cake pan holding
    the eggs from the water bath. Leave the oven on. Let the eggs cool and set
    in the pan for about 10 minutes, or until cool enough to handle. Cut the
    eggs into four equal portions. Using a spatula, carefully remove the egg
    patties from the cake pan. 
    
 5. (For our purposes right now, we just need one to make a single sandwich, as
    follows.) Place the egg patty on the baking sheet and top each patty with 2
    slices of fontina and 1 slice of Canadian bacon. Put the baking sheet back
    in the oven for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the cheese starts to melt.
    
 6. Butter both sides of each piece of bread and set in a toaster or oven until
    lightly golden. Spread chipotle mayo liberally on one piece of toasted
    bread. Top with the egg patty, cheese, and Canadian bacon. Top that with
    pepperoncini. Close the sandwich.
    


AIR FRIED

2 slices white bread
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter bread
2 slices American cheese
2 pieces uncooked bacon
2 large eggs
Kosher salt
Cholula
Chives 


 1. Butter both sides of each piece of bread. Place both slices of cheese on one
    slice.  Heat the air fryer to 350°F. 
    
 2. Create a dam for the eggs by placing the bacon in a ring form in the center
    of each slice of bread. Crack each egg into each bacon ring. Set each slice
    in the air fryer and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the whites are set and
    the bacon is crispy.
    
 3. Remove and garnish liberally with Cholula and chopped chives. Close the
    sandwich.
    


EGG SALAD MELT 

2 slices white bread
Unsalted or salted butter
3 large eggs
1 tbsp mayonnaise
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Kosher salt
½ cup shredded mild cheddar
Finely chopped scallions 


 1. Butter both sides of each piece of bread and set in a toaster or 350°F oven
    until lightly golden. 
    
 2. Make egg salad: Place eggs in bottom of large saucepan in single layer; pour
    in enough cold water to cover eggs by at least 1 inch. Bring to boil over
    high heat; cover and remove from heat. Let stand for 12 minutes; drain and
    rinse under cold water. Peel the eggs and finely/roughly chop. Let cool
    completely. Combine eggs, mayonnaise, mustard, and salt.
    
 3. Remove bread from the oven when golden. Spoon egg salad on top of the toast.
    Sprinkle cheese on top of the egg salad, and broil for about 2 minutes,
    until melted. Top with chopped scallions and serve.
    


POACHED 

2 slices white bread
2 tablespoons unsalted or salted butter, plus more to butter bread
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar 
2 slices gouda
2 pieces crispy turkey bacon
2 large eggs
Kosher salt


 1. Butter both sides of each piece of bread and set in a toaster or 350°F oven
    until lightly golden. Midway through, place both slices of cheese on one
    half to melt as the bread toasts.
    
 2. Meanwhile, poach the eggs: Bring a small pot of water to boil. Once a full
    boil is achieved, add the vinegar. Swirl the water into a whirlpool with a
    spoon. Gently but quickly, slide the eggs one by one into the swirling
    water. Immediately move the pot from the heat and cover. Start a 4-minute
    timer. When it goes off, remove the eggs with a slotted spoon. Dab lightly
    with a paper towel. 
    
 3. Remove the bread from the oven when the cheese is melted. Place bacon on top
    of cheese, and the eggs on top of that. Close the sandwich.
     

Save to Collection



THE ABSOLUTE BEST WAY TO BREAD CHICKEN

Read Article
Save to Collection



THE ABSOLUTE BEST WAY TO FRY AN EGG, ACCORDING TO 42 TESTS

Read Article

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


SO, WHAT'S THE ABSOLUTE BEST WAY?

Depends what you’re after! Here are the most significant pros of my top methods:


BREAD


For a hearty, sturdy sandwich that doesn’t read bready: Bagel
For a buttery, flaky treat and/or if you’re having me over: Biscuit
For a low bread-to-fillings ratio that lets her companions shine: Sliced Bread
For a classic egg-on-a-roll: Kaiser
For an especially saucy fellow: Waffles



EGG


For the junction of lowest-maintenance and ideal UX: Fried
For a creamy, soft interior: Soft-scrambled
For a sandwich with a consistent and delicious filling: omelet
For a crowd of sandwiches: Baked egg soufflé




What should Ella test next? Let her know on Instagram or in the comments.

Rome’s Homemade Spam, Egg & Cheese | Rome's Cozy Kitchen
Tags:
 * What to Cook
 * Eggplant


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See what other Food52 readers are saying.

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WRITTEN BY: ELLA QUITTNER



Ella Quittner is a contributing writer and the Absolute Best Tests columnist at
Food52. She covers food, travel, wellness, lifestyle, home, novelty snacks, and
internet-famous sandwiches. You can follow her on Instagram @equittner, or
Twitter at @ellaquittner. She also develops recipes for Food52, and has a soft
spot for all pasta, anything spicy, and salty chocolate things.


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14 COMMENTS

Mind1 April 15, 2022
I prefer the fried egg on a homemade biscuit, but it requires time and dishes so
I only do it on the weekends, especially if I want to add bacon. I usually skip
cheese because between the biscuit and the yolk there is already a richness
overload.

However my 6 year old requests an egg and cheese sandwich every single day. It's
a simple cheese, 2-egg omelette on sliced bread. After the omlette cooks I grill
the entire sandwich directly in the same pan soaking up the leftover butter. She
eats half for breakfast and the other half I wrap in foil and put in her
lunchbox for school.
 
Dan F. April 14, 2022
Love bagels, but I can't seem to make an egg-on-a-bagel sandwich without having
the filling squirt out when I bite down. I suppose a slice of frittata, cut tp
bagel size, might work, but if I'm going to use a bagel I would just make two
open-faced sandwiches.

PS What is the obsession with everything bagels anyway? Pick a (topping) lane!
 
lockharl April 14, 2022
". . . the croissant is mediocre and soft, which means everything splooges out
with the first bite." Almost makes this write-up NSFW. lol!
 
Barry F. April 14, 2022
The absolute greatest egg sandwich is also the simplest, though you can also add
stuff if you want to. I love it on an English muffin, but is also works superbly
on toast if you're out of EMs. First prep your favorite mixture for scrambled
eggs and have at the ready. Then toast the EM, spread both halves with your
favorite cream cheese, and set both halves aside. All that remains is to
scrambled the eggs to your own idea of perfection, using a spatula to nudge them
into the right shape to match your EM or whatever bread you're using. Then plop
them onto one half of the bread, close the sandwich, and WAIT SEVERAL SECONDS
FOR THE CREAM CHEESE TO MELT INTO THE EGG. Eat and collapse with gratitude.
You're very welcome.
 
Darilyn S. April 14, 2022
My favorite way is on a tortilla. Followed closely by an English muffin
 
halimil April 13, 2022
I am a freak of nature when it comes to breakfast sandwiches and I have only one
request…. COOPER CHEESE…. I need that flavor. I respectfully disagree with
croissant as I love croissant, but I agree with the biscuit!
 
Hannah April 12, 2022
It doesn’t matter what goes into the sandwich, but I’ve always used toasted
focaccia bread, a warm pita, or naan to make a proper egg sandwich. Focaccia is
the king of the sandwiches, though, all warm and garlicky and begging for runny
yolks…
 
Taressa April 11, 2022
My breakfast sandwich consist of an egg,with the yolk broken, and then a slice
of my favorite cheese, and 2 slices of Turkey Bacon on an Everything Bagel.
 
judy April 11, 2022
Well, Lots of option offered. And it really does come down to preference. Mine?
Lightly toasted good quality sourdough, egg over easy, melted cheddar or
machengo, tomato slices and mayo with a smear of mustard. Finally a leaf of leaf
lettuce, rib removed. Then a grind or two of black pepper. I had a biscuit
breakfast at Wendy's the other day that was really just about as good as it
gets!
 
Susanna April 10, 2022
There doesn’t seem to be any difference in your recipes for soft-scrambled vs.
hard-scrambled eggs, aside from the addition of cream cheese to the soft ones.
They both cook for one minute. Is this an error?
 
Sekhmet April 9, 2022
What, no egg rings? They're an American diner staple that makes cooking eggs for
sandwiches super convenient. The round ones make great fried eggs for a crowd.
The square ones, filled with scrambled eggs, are just the right size for sliced
bread and can be seasoned beforehand with things like salsa and shredded cheese
or tom yum paste and minced cilantro.
 
Kathleen April 8, 2022
Honestly my question is always, why would anyone have a soft scramble when they
could cook it fully? I really don't like soft scrambled eggs, the texture is
mushy and undercooked. It all comes down to personal preference.

Also I always fry my eggs over hard.
 
AntoniaJames April 8, 2022
My favorite egg sandwich? A simple omelet made with a touch of Spice House
garlic salt (which has some chives in it - great for slackers like me) and a
pinch of grated cheese - any kind but cheddar or pecorino romano are typically
featured here - between sliced homemade seeded multigrain bread, toasted and
buttered, along with a handful of arugula. Store-bought artisanal seeded bread
stands in nicely, if necessary.

When I'm in the mood for egg salad, this, always:
https://food52.com/recipes/12681-bacon-and-egg-salad-sandwich-with-dukkah-and-peppery-greens
If I have to make dukkah for it, well, then I have dukkah to use in other meals
- always a good thing. ;o)
 
Smaug April 8, 2022
Can't say that the sandwich appeals to me, but English muffins are absolutely
the best for just about any sandwich. Toasting them properly, though, is a bit
of an art.
 


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