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Home Skills Landscaping


19 THINGS YOU SHOULD NEVER DO TO YOUR LAWN


Family HandymanUpdated: Jun. 06, 2022
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WHETHER YOU’RE A GREEN THUMB OR NOT, IT’S EASY TO MAINTAIN A BAREFOOT-WORTHY
LAWN WITH THESE TIPS.

1 / 19
schulzie/Getty Images


DON’T PLANT THE WRONG TYPE OF GRASS

To grow a lush, green lawn, be sure to plant the right type of turfgrass for
your location. Some grasses can withstand dry summer heat, while others tolerate
harsh winters. Northern states will have luck with cool season grasses like
Kentucky bluegrass and red fescue. Bermudagrass, centipedegrass and other warm
season grasses do best in warmer areas.
2 / 19
LaMiaFotografia/Shutterstock


DON’T REMOVE GRASS CLIPPINGS

Leaving grass clippings on the lawn after you mow can cause thatch problems,
right? Nope! That’s a myth. Turns out, grass clippings can actually help with
the overall health of your lawn. And that means less work for you when you mow.

ADVERTISEMENT



3 / 19



DON’T SKIP AERATING

Most lawns, whether seeded or sodded, are planted over a fairly skimpy layer of
topsoil. Over time, lawn mowers, pets and pick-up football games compact the
soil, making it difficult for air, water and vital nutrients to penetrate to the
grass roots.

Your challenge: Restore healthy soil conditions that nurture your lawn. To
loosen and aerate the soil, rent a power core aerator. They’re available at
rental centers, plus some hardware stores and garden centers.

4 / 19
Family Handyman


DON’T USE A DULL MOWER BLADE

Dull mower blades rip through the grass blades instead of slicing them cleanly,
and that stresses the plants. You can always tell a lawn that’s been mowed with
a dull blade because it looks brown on the top. Get on your hands and knees and
you can actually see the lawn damage. Be sure to sharpen your mower blade each
season to keep your lawn in good shape.

5 / 19
DmitrySteshenko/Shutterstock


DON’T WATER EVERY DAY

Did you know your lawn can actually become dependent and needy if it has too
much water? Instead of watering every day for 15 minutes, choose one day a week
to water the lawn for an entire hour. Deep watering makes your lawn healthier
and more drought-tolerant.



6 / 19
Family Handyman


DON’T FORGET TO DE-THATCH

Thatch is a layer of slowly decomposing grass stems, roots, clippings and debris
that accumulate at the soil surface over time. It can build up in your lawn and
virtually choke it to death. If you’re wondering why your lawn isn’t healthy and
lush, thatch buildup could be the answer.

Excessive thatch buildup is commonly found in lawns that have been
over-fertilized or over-watered and have never been aerated. Thatch buildup of
3/4-in. or more will restrict water and nutrient penetration into the soil
(think thatched roof) and can harbor disease-causing organisms that can increase
the need for pesticides.

Slice open a section of turf. If the thatch is more than 3/4-in. thick, take
action.

7 / 19



DON’T GIVE UP ON SHADY AREAS

Growing grass under shade trees isn’t easy, but one key to success is choosing
the right shade grass species and planting method for your region. In
cool-season areas, you’ll get better results with seed than sod. Sod is grown in
wide-open fields under conditions that favor sun-loving grasses.

Choose red and tall fescues for shady areas in Northern zones. Garden centers
will have grass seed mixes formulated for shade. Late summer and mid-spring are
the best times to establish cool-season grasses in shady areas


8 / 19
Family Handyman


DON’T FERTILIZE SHADY AREAS MORE

People tend to over-apply fertilizer to shady areas because the grass is
struggling. But that just kills it faster!

Many people really have two lawns — the one that gets full sun for most of the
day, and a shaded lawn that may get only two to four hours of direct sun. Their
water and fertilizer needs differ. The shady-area grass needs less water because
less evaporates, and less fertilizer because with less sun it doesn’t grow as
much. When you go into shade, shift the controls on the spreader so you’re
spreading about half the amount.



9 / 19
Family Handyman


DON’T FORGET TO CHECK SOIL MOISTURE

Common wisdom for establishing the correct length of time to water is to place a
pie pan in the yard and note how long it takes to fill 1/2-in. deep. But experts
prefer a more accurate method that takes soil conditions into account. Heavier
soil doesn’t absorb moisture nearly as fast as loose or sandy soil, so it needs
to be watered longer.

After an extended warm, dry period (dry soil is the key), set up your sprinkler
and set a timer for 30 minutes. Then turn off the water and check the soil for
moisture depth. Do this by pushing a shovel into the lawn and tipping it forward
to expose the soil. See how deep the water has penetrated. Moist soil will be
darker. Your goal is to run the sprinkler until the water penetrates three to
four inches into the soil.

If the water has not penetrated far enough, restart the watering and continue to
keep track of the time. Check again in another 15 minutes. With trial and error,
you’ll eventually arrive at the optimal length of time to water for your soil
type and water pressure.

10 / 19
chanon83/Shutterstock


DON’T WAIT TOO LONG BETWEEN MOWING

If you came back from a vacation and the neighbor kid neglected to mow your
yard, don’t try and mow it all in one day. Cut off some of the length, then wait
a couple of days and mow again. This will cause less stress on the grass. You
may need three passes depending on how long the grass grew.

11 / 19



DON’T SKIP RESEEDING

Reseeding is a job you can do in a weekend if you have an average-size lawn.
You’ll have to wrestle home a couple of engine-powered rental machines. Once
your reseeding work is done, be prepared to keep the soil damp with daily
watering for the first month or so.



12 / 19
Tretyakov Viktor/Shutterstock


DON’T CUT GRASS TOO SHORT

Every grass type has an optimal cutting height, and you’re better off on the
high side of that height. There are a few reasons. Each grass blade is a food
factory of the plant. Short blades can’t generate as much food as long blades.
Long blades also shade and cool the soil. That means weed seeds are less likely
to sprout, and you won’t have to water as often because water won’t evaporate as
fast. Not sure what type of grass you have? Take a sample to a garden center for
identification.

13 / 19
ppa/Shutterstock


DON’T MOW IN THE SAME DIRECTION EVERY TIME

It’s easy to fall into a routine as you mow your lawn week in, week out over the
course of a summer. But try not to make your lawn mowing routine too repetitive.
Instead, mow in a different direction every time: front to back, back to front,
diagonal, etc. Repeatedly mowing the exact same way will cause the grass blades
to grow at an angle, and you may develop permanent tracks from the mower wheels.


14 / 19
Leigh Prather/Shutterstock


DON’T CUT WET GRASS

Mowing wet grass can cause the mower wheels to leave ruts in your yard, and you
could leave behind giant clumps of clippings that could smother the grass
beneath. And the wet grass will carpet the underside of your mower deck with a
thick mat that’s a pain to clean.



15 / 19
Family Handyman


DON’T USE BROADLEAF HERBICIDES IN EXTREME TEMPERATURES

You need to kill weeds when they’re growing. That’s because herbicides are
absorbed through the leaves and then sent throughout the rest of the plant. When
the weather is too cool, the weed isn’t growing and the herbicide won’t be
absorbed, so the chemical isn’t as effective. Too hot, and the herbicide will
stress the grass. The product directions will give you the best temperature
range. Apply herbicides when rain isn’t forecasted; a soaking will just rinse
off the herbicide before it can do any good.

16 / 19



DON’T OVERFEED

If you apply too much grass fertilizer, especially in sandy soils, a good
portion of it will leach through the soil and make its way into our precious
groundwater, lakes, streams and wetlands. Lawn grasses only need a certain
amount of food. More isn’t always better.

17 / 19



DON’T IGNORE PET AREAS

Dog spots are round patches about four to eight inches in diameter with dead
grass in the middle, encircled by dark green grass. Often caused by a winter’s
worth of animal urine, they’re most apparent in the early spring when dormant
grass first begins to turn green again. You have to replant your grass; it won’t
come back on its own. But first you have to dilute or remove the caustic urine
from the soil. Thoroughly soak the area with lots of water.



18 / 19
Family Handyman


DON’T DISCOUNT COMPOST

Top-dress your lawn with high-quality compost. Compost can bring depleted or
damaged soil back to life, resulting in stronger root systems and happier
plants. One teaspoon of compost contains a billion beneficial microorganisms
that help create better soil structure and texture, which improves nutrient,
water and air retention.

To apply compost, spread it over your lawn with a shovel, aiming for a layer
1/4- to 1/2-in. thick. Then work it into the turf with a rake. It’s best to do
this after aerating. Most garden centers sell bagged compost. But to cover an
entire yard, you’re better off buying in bulk. Don’t worry about buying too much
— any leftovers will benefit your garden and shrub beds.

19 / 19
Family Handyman


DON’T REMOVE ALL FALLEN LEAVES

Did you know that decomposing leaves are actually great for your lawn? Leaves
have organic matter in them that works as a natural fertilizer, helping your
grass to grow the following year.

According to Sam Bauer, a turfgrass researcher from the University of Minnesota,
fallen leaves can even suppress the growth of weeds. He recommends mulching the
leaves by using a lawn mower (specifically with a specialized mulching blade, if
you have one) to cut them up. However, if you have huge piles of leaves on your
lawn, it may be hard to mulch all at once, and this can smother your grass.
Remove those piles until you have a good dusting of leaves around your lawn
before mulching with your mower.


 
Originally Published: July 20, 2020


 



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