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X MARKS THE GUNDAM SPOT







TUESDAY, APRIL 25, 2023


THE NEWBIE STASH



Source

This is a collection of specific guides for reference in Gunpla Building and
Modeling in General. 


• Gunpla™ and Modeling Terminologies 
• Scales and Grades 
• The Mystery of Scale: Part One 
• The Mystery of Scale: Part Two 
• The Mystery of Scale: Part Three 
• Modeling Tools 101 
• Sanding and Priming 
• Hobby Paints and Solvents 
• Painting with Bosny Spray Cans 
• DIY Paintbooth Schematics 
• What is Gunmetal? 
• Is it Shiny, Metallic or Mirror-like? 
• Why Gundams do not Rust 
• SIN: Freehand Scribing 
• Intellectual Property, Copyright and Infringement 
 
Websites and Facebook Pages 
• Layman’s Gunpla Guide - a concise collection of guides by Otaku Revolution 
• Ghost Of Zeon - old-school techniques that are still applicable to new Gunpla 
• Fichtenfoo - another old-school favorite and one of the more prolific scale
modelers 
• Joshua Darrah - a fantabulous Gunpla modeler and artist 
 

YouTube
• Gundam Info - for Gunpla release promos and Anime series streaming
• HobbyLink TV - the YT channel of Hobby Link Japan featuring new Gunpla
• Prime92 - the prime go-to channel for Gunpla reviews (pun intended)
• Mecha Gaikotsu - another YT Gunpla reviewer (if you don’t mind the annoying
voice)


at April 25, 2023 No comments:
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TUESDAY, JUNE 21, 2022


OVERPRICED!!!



If you are a snowflake, don’t bother reading this. But you probably don’t think
you’re a snowflake, so you’ll probably read it anyway. If you are offended by
anything in this article, be it known that only snowflakes are offended by what
is written here.

--------------

Overpriced. Probably the most overused word in the Gunpla Buy and Sell community
these days, but, a lot of people, buyers and sellers alike don't even know what
overpriced kits are if it smacked them on the face.




Saturday. Or, any day actually. You go to the mall and just couldn’t resist
going to the toy section, either Toy Kingdom, ToyTown or Toys’R’Us (or whatever
toy or hobby store you go to where you are at) and check out the Gunpla kits on
stock. You figured, they probably have it on sale, but, even so, they’re still a
bit more expensive than online seller prices, thinking that the non-sale price
is overpriced. So you take pictures, for record-keeping purposes.



And you wonder why that is. You then go online, post the prices, and you get a
slew of uneducated and misinformed opinions, the most common of which is mall
store prices are overpriced, that they rather buy from online sellers, and some
even scream those kits are cheaper in Japan.



Well, they’re not overpriced. See, applying a little common sense as to why they
are more expensive at malls (the proper terminology), you should have realized
the difference right away, but, for some strange reason you do not. We were all
given the same information, we all have equal access to it, yet, some, if not a
lot of people, make incorrect conclusions and assumptions leading to misinformed
opinions.



So, what’s the difference between overpriced and more expensive? We have to base
it on the Yen price. Let’s take the RG Sazabi for example, which is tagged at
¥4860 (box price). I got mine at PhP2350, which is 0.48 of the Yen price. This
is close to the PhP-Yen conversion rate at the time. At mall stores, this is
priced at PhP3150-3250 (or more), which is roughly 0.65~ of the Yen price (and
it could be higher). This is more expensive, rather than overpriced, because
mall stores have higher overhead. Hobby Search (Japan) sells this at Yen 4050
sale price, but, factoring in the shipping, just for one kit, it will still be
more expensive.



The highest factor a mall store has priced a kit is at 0.85 Yen, and these are
often limited items. Now, if you encounter an online seller that sells a regular
item at 0.85-1.0Yen:1.0PhP, or more, higher than the list price of a mall store,
that is overpriced.



Comparative Pricing and Overpricing



First things first. Why is it more expensive at mall stores?



Short answer: Overhead.



Oh, you don’t know what that is? This is the age of the internet. As I have
mentioned, we all have access to the same information. But for the sake of
discussion, let’s just pretend you’re too lazy, or ignorant, or both, to do
research.



Well, it’s like this: Overhead is what is known in business as the money a
business person or a company has to put up every month and every year to keep
the business running. All businesses have overheads, some more than others.
There are two main types of businesses: single proprietorship and corporation.
Your favorite online seller supplying you with your addic--, I mean, hobby, also
has overhead, but it’s not as huge as a corporation’s overhead.



So, even though this has been discussed quite a few times, but, you were
probably watching hentai, let’s dissect what a corporation, in this case, a mall
store, has to pay for just to get to you the things you don’t even want to get
from them because you’re too much of a cheapskate to understand why they have
more expensive Gunpla prices.

 1. Mall Store Space Rental - This is rather obvious. Mall stores rent space to
    display what they sell. Mall store rental space is not cheap, as a 20sqm
    space can already go upwards of 30K rental a month (and that’s a
    conservative estimate).
 2. Warehouse Space Rental - Oh, did you think it’s just the mall space they are
    renting? Each mall store have their own warehouse space at the back of the
    store for additional stocks and inventory. In some cases, rental for those
    are separate. Since TK and TRU are officially licensed stores, part of their
    pricing is that licensing. They can only get their stocks from the main
    official distributor (we all know who that is). That distributor pays
    warehouse fees.
 3. Employee Salaries - Wait, did you think those people assisting you at the
    malls are working there for free? The official distributor also has
    employees to pay for.
 4. Customs Levy and Taxes - Did you think they just magically appear on store
    shelves, with Bandai teleporting these kits? All of these items pass through
    customs, and if you ever had anything pass through customs, it’s sometimes
    like threading a 2-inch rope through a sewing needle.
 5. Marketing, Advertising, Promotions and Events - How else would you know if
    the kit you were drooling for is already available, or if it’s on sale?
    Well, they advertise, create events and promotions. These events cost money,
    to be able to sell more kits, so they can pay for items 1 through 4. They
    also have to pay for that event space, and the prizes they give away for
    free are not really free, but, is covered by the sales they generate on that
    event and afterward.
 6. Country Distributor License - I forgot to mention this. Bankee is the
    licensed distributor of Bandai products, and they are the one that
    distribute these products to the mall stores. That operation is in no chance
    free of charge.



Now, there are silly comments, like “those kits are cheaper with online
sellers.” Well, duh, online sellers do not have that big an overhead. Most
online sellers sell you stuff on pre-order, and, sometimes, what they have on
stock, which is usually left when flakers flake on their pre-order, leaving some
of the small-time sellers hanging with a huge bill. They can afford to lower the
price of what they sell because they have less overhead. Still they do have to
go through customs, and if you’re any of the cheapskate flakers they have
encountered, just stop ordering things you’re not going to get later because you
didn’t have the money to get it the first place.



Another one, talking about the price of one, single, solitary kit is “It’s
cheaper in Japan.”



Yeah.Yeah. If you live in Japan. This is probably one of the dumbest comments
one could make just so one could say something (as in, memasabi lang). Since
it’s technically cheaper in Japan, well, why don’t you fly there to get that
one, single, solitary kit and come back here to the Philippines. You’ll end up
paying a whole lot more than the yen price of that MG Gundam Wing verTV, but
hey, you got to go to Japan just to get that one, single, solitary kit. Of
course, you can also go to Japan and get a whole lot of kits so your trip there
won’t be a waste, but, you’ll still end up paying for customs levy and taxes
(like what online sellers and mall stores do) when you arrive at customs. You’ll
still end up paying for more, since customs officials won’t really believe you
bought a shit ton of kits for your personal tower of power backlog. They will
charge you commercial sale taxes (not to mention the other thing they call
‘tax’).



Now, people who usually scream an item being overpriced are those who

 1. want things they can't afford.
 2. can afford things but want something else.
 3. can afford things, but still prefer things cheap (quality notwithstanding),
    aka "cheapskates."



And there’s that dreaded “P.” As in P-Bandai. The MG Barbatos has been
announced, and everyone who has P-allergy won’t be late to the screaming party,
that Bandai is definitely going to milk this one for all its worth, releasing
the next kit variants as P-Bandai till kingdom come. So we’re sure to have
P-Bandai 6th Form, or P-Bandai Add-ons from Form 1 to 6 (update, this one came
true, the other two aren’t too far behind), a P-Bandai Barbatos Lupus, and
P-Bandai Barbatos Lupus Rex.



Called it! And it's a P-Bandai nonetheless (I got this set at Shopee at base PO
price)...



Now, here’s the thing: It’s usually people who have no plans getting a P-Bandai
(or people who have no budget for it aka #CheapskatePolycaps) who complain and
rant about P-Bandai and Bandai kits in general being more expensive and milking
the kit lines.





Well, since you’re a cheapskate, opting to wait for the bootleg instead, Bandai
wouldn’t have the need to milk kit lines, especially if you’re too much in
denial to acknowledge that Bandai is losing profits to bootlegs. Bandai is now
reprinting more and more older kits as re-issues, and releasing more P-Bandai
variants because it needs to maximize the RnD and production costs from that
line. Developing a kit is not a cheap undertaking. And even though they are
actively fighting bootlegs, Bandai is still losing the fight because bootleggers
are now pre-empting their releases with “bett--,” I mean more detailed kits with
plenty of add-ons because bootleggers know bootleg lovers love more details and
add-ons rather than actual quality kits. Bandai isn’t losing the fight because
there are more bootleggers, it’s losing the fight because you opt to wait for
the bootlegs.





A 20-year old kit with a rare Blue Logo*




See what happened there? No?



Well, that’s called denial.



Whereas Bandai employs top artisans and engineers and use top quality equipment
and materials, who knows where bootleggers get their employees and materials
from? (And just in case you are too ignorant, that was sarcasm). Bandai produces
kits from ground up, whereas bootleggers will just mostly copy existing kits, if
not copy existing designs.



Do you think Katoki and Kawaguchi work for peanuts?


The Whys and Wherefores



Bandai doesn’t owe us anything. They produce what they produce under their own
production schedule. We get what they have in their production line, not what we
want them to produce. Sure, we’re consumers, we deserve to get what we want, and
Bandai knows that, enough to surprise us with kits people want every now and
then, but, to scream “I’ll just wait for or get the bootleg version because
Bandai is an evil corporation out to get my money” is just as dumb as it sounds.



Bandai is not a charity institution. It’s a business that needs to make profit
in order to continue producing kits.



But wait, even certain bootlegs have gone P-Bootleg because scalpers held back
old raided stock and gouged the prices later on, to the point that some bootlegs
are even more expensive than a P-Bandai, because a rare bootleg is, well, rare.
The funny thing is, idiots were buying it, and it’s basically the same idiots
complaining about Bandai being too expensive.



Incidentally, we got this as soon as the HiRM God Gundam was announced.



This is NOT the MG Barbatos

The bootleg issue have become so bad, that Kawaguchi himself have started making
personal appearances as a judge in GBWC. It’s become so bad that an idiot posted
a bootleg on his (Kawaguchi’s) wall. It’s become so bad, we’re now required to
show the receipt and the boxes (and recently, the Bankee Sticker), because there
were idiots who claimed online that they joined and won(?) with bootlegs.







All because a lot of people are just too lazy, or too ignorant.



To begin with, this hobby is expensive. I’m not saying you don’t have a right to
have a hobby, but again, this hobby is frakking expensive. If you’re barely
making ends meet, stop being a self-entitled prick and prioritize your needs
instead of screaming all over the forums how expensive a kit you will never be
able to get is.



Because this hobby is just frakking expensive!

Now, presented with these options, what would you choose?



Decisions decisions...



 




 




at June 21, 2022 No comments:
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SATURDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2021


GUNPLA PAINTING WITH BOSNY



 This is another article converted from a Facebook Note post.



You’re getting tired of simple snap builds and fussing over those nasty
stickers, and you want to try your hands in painting kits so you can show off
your kits in a better, ugh, light. You can always try hand brushing, which is
simpler, but, not really a simple skill to learn because it will test your
patience, dexterity and ability to focus. Handbrushing is very much a
specialized skill that you will have to learn eventually especially when
detailing kits.

Though there are people who could jump right into airbrushing, it’s a bit
tedious a process involving mixing and cleaning and a whole lot of maintenance
(but, eventually, if you’re really up to it, you’ll get there).

So, the alternative is using spray cans. Though there are hobby grade paint in
cans, like Tamiya, Mr Color and recently, Vallejo, they are a bit on the
expensive side.

What is a poor guy on a limited budget to do?

The answer is of course, Bosny Spray cans. There are other industrial type cans
available but, let’s concentrate on Bosny since it’s mostly-widely-more
available and thus easier to access, especially in Asia. (As an aside, check
your local hardware for equivalent brands). The main difference between
hobby-grade cans and industrial cans might not just be the formulation, but also
that the hobby-grade has a finer nozzle.

Now, the stuff here can and might also be applicable to airbrush painting, as
they are of course using similar concepts, using pressurized air to atomize
paint, to put paint on your kits.

In a previous article, I wrote about Hobby Paint and Solvent types. Bosny is not
a hobby paint. It’s an industrial paint that’s designed mainly for retouching
paint on vehicles. In some cases, it’s used to paint decal-like designs. It’s
also used by graffiti artists. What’s more, Bosny is listed as
Acrylic-Lacquer-Epoxy, which is something that confounded a few people since
they didn’t think lacquer and acrylic on the same phrase, let alone, in the same
can, was possible (but that’s a different story).

Update: Bosny has reformulated its paints, dropping the epoxy component
altogether. Bosny paints are now 100% acrylic with lacquer component.

Being an industrial paint and also being cans, a lot of people get the
misconception that it cannot be used on Gunpla. “Bosny Paint is too thick” is
the most common sentiment. Well, to be honest, any paint, whether it’s hobby
grade or industrial grade can be used on Gunpla, it’s just that people expect to
have the same, exact results when using one or the other. There were people who
joked (and some who seriously asked) about using Boysen paints on Gunpla.
Seriously, if it was properly thinned, and depending on the paint type, you
probably could. All types of paint, after all, are made with the same chemicals,
but of different proportions and additives. Maybe I’ll try and , and depending
on the paint type, you probably could. All types of paint, after all, are made
with the same chemicals, but of different proportions and additives. Maybe I’ll
try and experiment with Boysen paints* one of these days.

Now, quite recently, since there will always be new people getting into the
hobby (their means of getting into the hobby notwithstanding), we’ll normally
see people asking the same questions asked and airing the same sentiments aired
before. Let’s tackle them all (this will be updated as needed).

 * Bosny paints are too thick. Well duh! It’s an industrial type of paint. It
   tends to really be thick because it’s designed to cover large-area objects,
   like cars and car parts. But, is the paint really that thick?
      Yes, and no. There are certain Bosny variants, like the designated
   Metallics (metallic Red, metallic Black), that are really thick no matter
   what you do. I steered clear of those variants after using them once. But,
   from primer to candy tone, you can control how thick the paint is by fighting
   your instinct to spray wildly and impatiently, which leads us to,
 * Bosny has no spray control. Again, yes and no. Bosny only has one setting
   when it’s new: male adolescent in puberty. Depressing the nozzle will tend to
   spray out everything it can because of its initial pressure. But that’s where
   you, the intrepid modeler cum painter cum in (puns intended).
      With Bosny cans, you become the spray control by learning how to control
   your finger as you depress the nozzle. You have to practice a very fine motor
   control of applying enough pressure on the nozzle at a relatively very short
   amount of time, like, less than a second. Instead of spraying continually
   like you could with an AB, you have to spray in short, quick bursts, and
   oftentimes adding a slight movement while rotating the part to cover larger
   areas or parts evenly.
      As it expels air, it loses pressure. Halfway through, you’ll find that
   there isn’t enough spray pressure anymore, the paint starts to spurt, and you
   have to adjust how you spray as well. Recently, I discovered that I have to
   get a fresh can when it feels half as heavy, because the pressure would
   probably also be just half as strong, as the amount of paint in the can is
   more or less directly proportional to the air pressure left. I can still use
   the can after its halfway point, but it’s touch and go the rest of the way.
   The paint is still viable, but, without enough pressure, it won’t give
   consistent and favorable results, so the only option at this point is to
   decant, thin, and apply it with an airbrush.
 * The spray coat is uneven. It’s because you don’t know how to use it. It’s
   either you’ve depressed the nozzle too long, or, you didn’t rotate the part,
   or you didn’t move the can during the short spray burst. To add, some
   practices, like painting on runners and painting assembled kits can also
   contribute to the issue, especially when you’re just starting to paint with
   cans.
 * There is paint clumping in some areas. Ah, yes. The dreaded overspray and
   pooling. The bane of all modelers and humankind in general. This happens when
   you spray too close and too long, and when you paint an assembled kit,
   instead of doing it properly, painting parts and/or sections individually.
      This also happens with an AB that’s improperly set up, or paint that is
   improperly thinned. Whereas previously, the spray distance is about 6 inches
   (15cm), I found out that 12 inches (30cm) or more is ideal. This allows the
   paint particles to partially dry midway, level quickly as it lands, and
   become fully dry a few seconds after.
 * The surface is curly. Some people call this the orange peel, which is
   actually incorrect, since it should be orange skin, describing the texture of
   an orange’s skin (orange peels however is an actual thing used as an
   ingredient in cooking and baking), but for the sake of convention, let’s
   stick to the term. This also happens with ABs and results from several
   factors:
   1. the underlying paint coat is still moist when you laid down the successive
      coat, and the upper coat dries/cures faster that the previous one/s.
      Solution: Wait for the previous coat to fully dry, or better yet, fully
      cure, before laying down the next coat. Ideally, the time between coats
      should be at least an hour or so, longer during cold weather. I can work
      quickly with 30 minutes between coats, but that’s stretching it.
   2. the surface is not sanded and primed. A lot of lazy people skip sanding
      and priming because they simply do not have the time, opting for uneven
      painted surfaces and expecting everyone would be okay with it (Gunpla is
      freedom). Well, I guess that’s okay, for some, but, if if you post it,
      don’t expect everyone would be okay, let alone impressed with it,
      especially seasoned modelers and painters who don’t do things half-assed
      and half-baked.
   3. you painted during a storm, or during fluctuating humidity. Although this
      is a very tricky proposition, I’ve painted kits during bad weather and got
      good results because I know when to lay down paint. It’s a bit hard to
      explain, but I noticed that I kinda sense when the weather changes. The
      air becomes humid and heavy and it’s extreme cold and hot in front of and
      away from a fan respectively. Bad weather is not an ideal time to paint,
      but, if you must, the best time to paint is when it actually starts to
      cool, an hour or so after it has started raining. It won’t be a good time
      to do candy tones or top coat, but priming and base coats should be fine.
   4. the previous coat is uneven, or you tried to do a full coverage in one go.
      Though it is possible to accomplish that, conditions must be ideal
      (humidity, temperature). You must mist in thin coats, and let the coat
      cure for an hour or so before the next coat.
 * Bosny is just a bad paint medium. Okay. Okay! I’m kind of an unofficial Bosny
   ambassador ever since I started painting Gunpla, or anything for that matter,
   and quite recently kind of become a semi-official one after Bosny Philippines
   gave me a whole bunch of cans and stuff after they’ve seen my blog and FB
   page. Bosny is only a bad medium if you’re bad at it. I repeat, gave me a
   whole bunch of cans and stuff after they’ve seen my blog and FB page. Bosny
   is only a bad medium if you’re bad at it. I repeat, Bosny is only a bad
   medium if you are bad at it. When I started using Bosny, I’ve committed all
   the errors you can think of, from overspray, to uneven paint and even orange
   peels, because I didn’t know what I was doing. But, after a while, I got to
   understand how the medium works and how to make it work on any Gunpla scale.
 * Airbrush is better. Well, duh! But, apropos (my favorite uncommon word), it’s
   more like an airbrush is a better tool. I’ve written about this before
   because there are hardcore AB modelers that seem to interpret my use of Bosny
   as something being better when I said “I can achieve close to AB results with
   Bosny.” Context notwithstanding, there is nothing in what I said that even
   comes close to saying Bosny is better.
      The thing is, an AB, like Bosny, is a tool. If you don’t know how to use a
   tool, it won’t give good results. So ultimately, it’s still on you. I’ve seen
   a few projects done with Bosny that are comparable to those done with AB. And
   seriously, there are those done with AB that do not look that they were done
   with AB.
      Also, if you are going to use an AB and your color scheme is rather common
   and mediocre that it looks like someone else’s work, you can’t really diss
   someone else’s work that looks way better than your mediocre AB-painted kit.
   In fact, it’s really harder to achieve good results with Bosny because of all
   the factors I mentioned, and it takes a lot more skill and patience to get
   good results. If you’re using an AB, and your results are mediocre at best,
   what’s your excuse?

Thin as sleeves, thick as thieves.

Now, to summarize these are the factors that affect how Bosny paints (and hobby
paints in general) behave:



Spray pressure. Bosny only has one setting. Fresh, new cans have very strong
pressure and this goes down quite significantly as the air gets expended over
time. With AB, consistent pressure can be set on the compressor, and spray
strength/volume can be adjusted on the airbrush. Mini compressors mostly have a
single setting, around 17 to 20 psi, but there are mini compressors with
pressure knobs. With Bosny, the only way to get actual spray pressure control is
to shorten the spray burst.



Humidity. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not heat or the temperature alone
that can affect paint during spraying, but rather, the overall relative
humidity. Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air. High or fluctuating
humidity can cause havoc on paint as it lands on the part you are painting since
moist air can get caught with your spray bursts. Do you know why cold glasses
sweat? That’s moisture condensing on the surface of the glass. Now, during a
thunderstorm, everything solid gets cooler, but, the air can remain warm. When
moisture gets caught on your spray burst and lands on the part, well, you get
the idea. This, along with a cold part, causes topcoats to frost.
   This also happens during a cool sunny day with relatively high humidity. With
AB, this is minimized by the use of moisture traps. Since AB spray mists have
smaller particles, and the pressure burst can be controlled, you can spray the
part as close as you can without over-spraying.
    Warming the Can may seem to help at times, but it really doesn't. As
humidity fluctuates, it would have already fluctuated after you've warmed the
can.




Curing times. Let’s face it. No paint or paint tool can ever get a complete
layer coverage in one go. That’s why we paint in successive coats. Bosny has a
quick-dry formulation, but, it still has a relatively long curing time just like
most paints. When you do successive coats, with the previous coat still curing,
the overlaying coat can dry and cure quicker when the humidity changes. So, it’s
best to allow all a safe curing time between coats. For Bosny, an hour or so, or
longer is ideal.



Spray distance. During the course of using Bosny, a distance of 12 inches is
about right to properly mist the paint. Too close, and the paint will be too
moist that it will cause over spray. Too far, and the paint would end up like
small particles of dust over your part.



Sanding and Priming. Two important steps you should never skip. When you decide
to paint your kits, don’t do it half-assed. You need to commit to the endeavor.
The primary purpose of sanding is to level and smooth the surface of the parts
you are going to paint. While de-nubbing parts, you introduce micro scratches
and cracks on the plastic, without realizing it. Though most parts do have a
little flexibility, applying pressure on certain parts leave very minute cracks
on the surface that are not visible until you apply primer and paint. What’s
more, nubs will always have an uneven surface, no matter what tool you use. Not
even god hand can cut that clean. You’ll still have to sand that nub mark away
because it will show under the paint. Sanding also removes that built-in shiny
surface coating that exacerbates the plastic texture underneath. So, if you see
swirls and curls after you paint, well...
   Priming, on the other hand gives a smooth surface for your paint to latch on.
Primers are formulated differently, as such, they will latch on to most
plastics. Certain paints don’t latch properly on plastic, even sanded ones,
hence, priming.

Addendum: Using hair dryers to dry paint on plastic is a bad idea.


Check these links for more information:

https://www.edinformatics.com/math_science/what-is-humidity.html

https://www.facebook.com/GunplaBosny/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/BosnyGunpla/




*I made that statement as a half-serious joke, which is something I would
probably test one of these days, but apparently, based on feedback (or rumors)
from certain modelers, there is a brand of local hobby paint that is actually
just thinned house paint (hence the inconsistent results).




at October 23, 2021 No comments:
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FRIDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2021


MODELING TOOLS 101



We were all snapbuilders once, but, we are beginners only once.

Year in and year out, this hobby of ours get a lot more people who are getting
into the hobby than people getting out of it, as such, the same questions we
asked back when we are newbies are now being asked by the younglings, or at
least, not so younglings, who are first getting their feet wet into Gunpla, or
scale modeling in general. Truth of the matter is, there is no age limit or
requirement for this hobby, so it’s quite amusing when certain young ones chide
older modelers about their age. You can’t teach old dogs new tricks, but old
dogs do have hobbies. Some people have started young and have grown into the
hobby, others start way later.

I remember the first time I got myself a Gunpla; it was an HG Wing Gundam. That
time, all I had as a tool was that flimsy, black metal cutter that was part of a
Tamiya 4x4 tool set. I got it when I was collecting Tamiya 4WD racers. That
cutter was made of soft metal, it was dull after its first year of use with
nothing more than cutting runners of Tamiya 4WD kits, but I didn’t really care
back then. When I used it for my first Gunpla, or to say more aptly, my first 4
HG Wing kits, it was a good enough tool.

I still had and used that tool when restarted collecting in 2007 when I got
hooked with 00 and got me the fab four. But, it was not until I started doing
modifications and customs did I find my tools, or lack thereof, uh, lacking.

So, I started doing research. Tamiya had a couple of high-end cutters, but, at
the time, it felt too expensive for me. After a little digging and happenstance,
I found a nifty and cheap side cutter in the form of a generic tool: The Alexan
Side Cutter.

Not godhand, but good enough.


It was made of sturdy stuff that it could cut through most anything, even
thin-gauge wires, so, using it to cut through 3-mm thick gates and beams was
almost too easy. It took a long while to get dull, and it does get dull over
time, so I decided to get a couple more as back-up.

But I started to make a lot more complex custom builds, and I felt I need better
tools. I then got me the Tamiya round head and the Tamiya slim head, at
different times. I lost those two cutters along with several other tools,
including my two Tamiya pin vises, drill bits and (sigh) my iPad when I left and
lost my backpack in the back of a cab while going home with groceries. I didn’t
forget the groceries, but I forgot my backpack with all my stuff.

Anyway, to make a long story short, I had to reinvest on new tools a few times,
either because they got lost, or, they got too worn down to use effectively.
Nowadays, I often have two of everything, just for flexibility, and if I lose or
misplace one.

Now, seeing that the same questions pop up here and there, then and again, here
are the needed tools based on level:



Level 1: Basic (Snapbuilding)

 * Side Cutters - Branded cutters range from affordable (Mineshima, Tamiya,
   Wave) to expensive (Meng, godhand, Platz). There are <unbranded> side cutters
   that are entry level cheap, like the trusty Alexan Side Cutter.
 * Modeling/Art Knife - X-Acto comes to mind, which is actually more about the
   blades itself than the shaft. There are cheap blades and shafts, but, it’s
   best to invest on metal shafts for their durability. The drawback, though is
   that if you do use a knife to cut away stupid, stubborn nubs, you can
   potentially damage the surface of the plastic you’re cutting. So use this
   tool selectively, sparingly and carefully.
 * Utility Knife / Plastic Cutter - You wouldn’t want to waste your art knife
   blade’s sharpness cutting thick sheets of plastic, so, you use a utility
   knife (retractable, with snap-off blades) instead.
 * Tweezers - for laying down those nasty, ugly stickers and dry-transfers you
   just have to use to put detail on your work, especially in older kits, and
   later on, when you decide to up your game with water slide decals.
 * Plastic Tubs - I’ve seen a lot of people lament about the dreaded black hole
   when they cut rather smallish parts from runners, and like a live fish, flies
   off in to the vast nothingness of space, or at least your room. When this
   happens, that part is damn nearly impossible to find. Having reusable,
   microwaveable tubs is a handy solution; simply aim the part you are cutting
   down into the tub, and it will catch said part. It’s also worthwhile to line
   the bottom of the tub with a few sheets of tissue or toilet paper to prevent
   those parts from bouncing off (it can happen).
   
   Aside from those tubs, you can use ice cream containers as well.



Level 2: Intermediate (Snapbuilding)



You’ll need everything in L1 plus:

 * Sandpaper / Sanding Blocks / Sanding Sticks - of various grits. I find that
   having 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit and up are the best
   combination if you plan to go beyond simple nub cleanup, because a cutter or
   a knife, no matter how sharp, just won’t cut it (pun intended) when it comes
   to nub removal. You can make your own sanding blocks and sticks by attaching
   a sheet of sandpaper onto a firm foam block or popsicle sticks respectively,
   if buying expensive, pre-made ones does not appeal to you.
 * Files - for nasty, bumpy nubs that would take a long time to sand, having
   micro or diamond files is handy. You’ll need this to make quick work of
   stubborn nubs, and flattening cemented edges of seams, modified parts and
   scratchbuilds.
 * Pens and Markers - If you’re like me you’ll outgrow these implements rather
   quick. I used to detail panel lines and small parts with pens and markers (I
   have even used a 0.1 technical pen), and for the very basic builder, these
   are the <go to> tools.



Level 3A: Advanced (Customs/Modifications/Scratchbuilding)



You’ll need everything from L1 and L2 plus:

 * Pin-Vise - one of the more important tools you’ll need if to plan to get more
   than your feet wet. The <best> pin-vise around is the Tamiya Fine Pin-Vise D,
   which has a pair of reversible bit holders and can accommodate bits from
   0.1mm to 3.2mm, but there are other branded as well as cheap generic ones.
 * Clamps and Vises - You’ll need these if you have to secure sections or parts
   you’ve cemented or <sandwiched> together. In most cases, double-clips of
   various sizes would suffice.
 * Saws - Yup. You heard it right. Saws. You’ll need a hobby saw for general
   cutting, especially thick plastics. You’ll also need thin etching saws (some
   of which also double as scribing tools) when you need to make precise cuts,
   say like cutting a whole MG Sinanju and Sinanju Stein in half and slap them
   back together with a mirror in between them.
   
   It’s the next best thing to a *lazer* sword.
   
   
   
   Mirror, Mirror...
   

 * Scribing Tools - You can easily use dull/blunted and chipped knife blades and
   retrofit them as scribers, or you can sharpen those micro-screwdrivers and
   turn them into makeshift chisels (see photo above). But, if you have reached
   this point, you’ll realize that those might not be enough, so, invest on
   better tools, like actual modeling chisels. At this point, you probably also
   have a job that pays well enough for tools.
 * Router / Mini Drill - This tool is very handy when you need to cut something
   quick, or when sculpting something into shape. With various bits and heads
   you can also mount a polishing head for a quick polishing job.
 * Materials - When doing customs, you’ll need more than just tools. You’ll be
   needing a lot more of these materials the more wet you get. PlaPlates (is a
   brand of PolyStyrene sheets made by Tamiya) and is the base term of
   pla-plating, which means cutting pieces of PS sheets and arranging them in a
   nice layout to enhance your Gunpla’s overall look.
     There are other brands of PS Sheets, like Evergreen and also some generic
   ones, but, everyone seems to call them Plaplates regardless. It’s like Xerox
   is to photocopying, or Colgate is to toothpaste.
      Aside from Plaplates, you’ll also need beams of various thickness or
   diameter, especially when you start to scratchbuild a lot more than just a
   small part. You’ll probably need putty for some of the things you can’t do
   with plaplates, especially rounded and curved parts.
 * Adhesives - when you do modifications and scratchbuilding, you’ll need
   something to stick things together. Whereas the first instinct of most is
   superglue (aka, cyanoacrylate, or resin glue, which you should have
   nevertheless), the best adhesive for the job is plastic cement. You should
   have both regular and extra thin cement for various purposes.



Level 3B: Advanced (Painting)

 * Paints - Obviously. There are Hobby Grade paints, such as Tamiya, Mr Color
   Citadel, Vallejo and quite recently, Armored Komodo (which is now available
   in North America). You can experiment on other paint brands, but these are so
   far tried and tested to work best on Gunpla. Personally, I use Vallejo paints
   mostly for detailing because it’s designed for handbrushing detail. I have
   started using Armored Komodo quite recently.
 * Various Brushes - for handpainting, you’ll need plenty of various-sized
   brushes for detailing mostly.
 * Airbrush - ah, yes. The airbrush. I have a couple of them buggers, and a
   compressor to boot, but I’ve been using a handheld mini-compressor AB for
   minor spray work to complement,
 * Spray Cans - rattlecans, as others call it. Personally, aside from
   handbrushing detail, I mostly use Bosny cans as my go to paint choice (see
   photo above). They are basically affordable, easily accessible and convenient
   for people like me.
 * Masking Tapes - When you start painting, you’ll need to shield those pegs and
   joints so they don’t get painted on, which results in getting them stuck
   together during dry fit, and later on, breaking. Joints most especially need
   to be masked properly, but I do a shortcut by priming painting joint frame
   parts already assembled. Masking also allows you to put paint details via
   layer masks, like decal-type details and camouflage patterns.
 * Miscellaneous - Alligator clips, painting sticks, painting stands, buckets,
   tubs (for parts and clippings), metal rulers, compass, triangle, protractor,
   magnets, etc. All the things you will eventually think of needing later.




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FRIDAY, JULY 30, 2021


THE MYSTERY OF SCALE: PART THREE



Just today, I found this on my Facebook feed.


Source: Isaiah Takahasi




It's an impressive composite water scene of an RX 78-2 towering over what seems
to be a Catalina-type sailboat yacht, but something seems off.

Yup, the scale is all wrong. The RX is too big compared to the size of the
Catalina, which is about 10m from the base to the tip of the sail, and
considering foreshortening, the RX is still rather huge since it's only 18m in
1:1 scale.

But, using the known average height of the Catalina which is around 10m, we can
interpolate the height of that RX in the photo/image (proportionate to the GTO
kit) to be around 50m, just as tall as the first version of Gojira.

Source: Google Search


So, it really is off scale, almost 3 times its actual height. At that height,
the scale of the RX against its 1/1 counterpart is 2.78/1. Rule of thumb: The
higher the value of the denominator, the smaller the scale height would be,
hence why 1/144 scale of a certain object at 1/1 is smaller than its 1/100 scale
counterpart)

Now Someone commented that the boat is 1/144 and that the RX is 1/48. We don't
really mix scales when doing dioramas, and I know what the person meant, but
sure, let's bite.

Using 1:1 height reference, the scale of the RX would be 1/36, and not 1/48. How
did I get that number? Again, by using fractions, ratios and proportions which
we learned in grade school and high school. Let's assign xb as the unknown scale
we're trying to figure out, knowing the 1:1 height of the RX at 1800cm, the 1:1
height of the boat at 10m, and its estimated height of the RX in the image at
5000cm (1m=100cm), we get





Or, for the mathematically-challenged, here's a visual (which still requires
Math to figure out, unfortunately). At 1/144, the height of the boat would be at
7cm (1000/144=6.94444~),  the height of the RX would be 12.5cm (1800/144). At
1/100, the boat and the RX are 10cm and 18cm respectively. At 1/48 (Mega-Size),
the height of the RX would be 37.5 cm. At 1/60 (Perfect Grade) the height would
be 30cm.



 
Here's where it goes nutty: If we use the 50m height as 1/1, the 1/48 height
would be 104cm, while the 1/36 would be a whopping 139cm, almost a meter and a
half, which is about the average height of a tall adolescent, or a small adult.
I was overthinking this, but, if we interpolate the 1/36 and 1/48 heights into
1:1 relative to the height of the boat of 10m, then we get 50m and 37.5m
respectively.

(Sidenote: I did get a little bit confused here earlier because of the 18m and
50m heights, since I thought I made a computation error to get 1/36. As it turns
out, the 1/100 scale of 50m and 1/36 scale of 18m are both 50cm).

Now, here's how it should look like when everything is on the same scale.

Where's that rampaging T-Rex when you need it?



So, again, to determine the height of an object based on scale, you need to know
one other value: the height of another object you can compare it to. Research
comes into play in this case, since the only object I can compare the RX with is
the Catalina. Even if you don't know anything about boats, you can simply do a
keyword search for sailboat dimensions, which is exactly what I did.

In closing, I'd like to share with you this very nice image that depict the
heights of different robots and super robots in relation to one another.








Source: All-over the Internet, but, where the heck is Gurren Lagann?







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WEDNESDAY, JULY 28, 2021


WHY GUNDAMS DO NOT RUST



Disclaimer: I've seen impressive weathering done on Gunpla. I've also seen
overly or improperly done weathering that looks as if they were dunk in a vat of
oil or greasetrap gunk, or were haplessly lathered in marker inks, without any
direction or logic. This article does not intend to hamper one's preference,
standard or style, but rather simply explains the subtle logical reasons why
Gundams or most Mobile Suits (MS), especially those that operate in space, do
not rust. Such is the case, there are people who scream Gunpra iz Fleedom at
people who actually know a thing or two about modeling and weathering when they
make a polite comment* about how their weathering looks more like a cat puked it
out, I won't show those, ugh, dirty socks.

First, let me start with a couple of things I posted a while back in several of
the Facebook groups I was in. 



I've never liked the RX78-2, or, overly weathered kits. Gundams do not rust
after all. But, this one is impressive. The modeler's name is M Live, and no
surprise there, he's Japanese. It's dirty to the point of being haplessly
lathered with dirt, but it somehow looks nice. In the discussion, someone
commented that it was probably the pose that did it, and I would tend to agree.




Impressive Weathering by M Live






At the other end of the spectrum, there's minimalist weathering done by Zaku in
a Box, which is what an MS would look like after a few days of deployment.



Minimalist Weathering by Zaku in a Box



I'd also have to include this magnificent Turn X done by Naoki The Turn X is one
of my favorite MS designs as well. This is one of the best examples I can give
when it comes to weathering done right. It's not overly weathered, has dirt in
all the right places and does not look like someone dropped it in a vat of oil
and viola! Instant weathering.



Turn X by Naoki



Now that that is out of the way, let's address the reason/s why Gundams do not
rust.


One word: Gundarium.

Gundarium is the fictional metal alloy most Gundams or MS are made of. It's also
called Luna Titanium (UC) mainly because it's sourced from the Moon, and
Gundanium (Gundam Wing). As it is, Gundarium or Gundanium are alloys of
Titanium. In Gundam SEED, the metals used Gundam and MS are also probably made
with some form of Titanium alloys but are augmented by an electrostatic system
(Phase-Shift Armor) which gives it added strength and durability against
physical and projectile damage. In IBO, Gundams are made with nano-laminate
armor, but who's to say that the metal component isn't a Titanium alloy of some
sort either? I also have to mention 00 Mobile Suits which are made of e-Carbon,
which as per lore is an artificial allotrope of Carbon (Carbon nanotubes), which
is described as a materials with virtually no weakness and is corrosion
resistant, so it's safe to say that it doesn't rust.


Titanium (Ti) is the 22nd element in the periodic table, with the same Atomic
number. Produced in the heart of Supernovas, it's very ductile in its pure form,
but when alloyed with other metals, becomes one of the strongest and hardest
metal alloys on Earth, which is very resistant to corrosion. In fact when it
oxidizes, the surface oxidation itself becomes its protection against further
corrosion, as such it does not really corrode unlike cast iron metal or
non-alloy steel which start to rust only after a few days exposed to the
elements. Further, Titanium Dioxide, or titania, one of its naturally-occurring
oxide forms, is used as a white pigment in paints.

Exposed to the elements, Titanium and its alloy forms would be very resistant to
rusting, even after exposed for a very long time. If it does rust, it's most
probably alloyed with iron, and only iron corrodes red.

Now, the other reason why Gundams don't rust in space should be rather obvious:
the lack of oxygen in space. Granted that space colonies would have water and
oxygen, these colonies would also be made of rust- and corrosion-resistant
alloys which would mostly likely be Titanium. So, if one depicts a rusted MS in
space, that would probably one which is not made of Gundarium or other Titanium
alloys and have not been maintained properly. If the scene is a derelict, then
it would probably be possible, but, it goes back to the point that, if it is a
derelict, then it would be exposed to space, space is a vacuum, and in the
vacuum of space, there is no oxygen or water (water freezes in space). No
oxygen, no oxidation, no corrosion, no rust.

On the ground, it goes back to the same logic: how did that still-operating MS
gets so rusty? In a continuous operation, the logical weathering would be
scratched paint, projectile or beam weapon damage, dirt and dust on the edges
and nooks and crannies.
 
But rust?

 
This is probably the only most realistic scene ever in the Gundam Universe.
 

Leiutenant Shiro Peeping Tom reporting for duty...



Ooops. Wrong scene.
 

Giant Robots ain't no match to the might of the miniscule dust and dirt...



We go back to that point of what Gundams and most MS are made of: Gundarium,
which is an alloy of Titanium, which is corrosion-resistant, which if ever
corrodes, has white corrosion.

Now, when the 00 was left on the field, flowers started to bloom and cover it,
but it did not rust (as was depicted in the anime), since it is after all, made
of carbon.



Source



Edit: Incidentally, I just recently came across this very impressive digital art
by Aldiaz Nasher Arighi that depicts the RX 78-2 as a derelict in a forest
scene, heavily battle-damaged and has started to rust in places.

 

Source


So, Gundams, in general, do not rust. Weathering, on the other hand, has logic
to it:

 * Less is more.
 * Outside more than Inside.
 * Lower more than Upper.
 * Edges more than Flats.
 * Corners more than Curves.

Too much of it, your masterpiece can look like a masterpiece of shit, which is
probably okay if it is depicted as a derelict and is no longer in service. But,
if you're lazy, as such you opt skip sanding, priming and painting altogether
and decide to weather bare plastic, there's a natural weathering technique I can
share with you.



Effortless Weathering, for the Lazy amongst us...





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Source This is a collection of specific guides for reference in Gunpla Building
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   We've known for quite some time now that if one needs a reference to a
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Matanglawin I've been more of a collector rather than a modeler, but I have done
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