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Asia Pacific|Hong Kong Wants More Tourists, but Mostly ‘Good Quality’ Ones,
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Hong Kong Dispatch


HONG KONG WANTS MORE TOURISTS, BUT MOSTLY ‘GOOD QUALITY’ ONES, PLEASE

The return of budget tour groups from mainland China is sparking frustrations —
and a dose of snobbery — in a city starved for business.

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Mainland Chinese tourists at the Golden Bauhinia Square in Wan Chai district in
Hong Kong, last month.Credit...Anthony Kwan for The New York Times


By David Pierson and Olivia Wang

David Pierson and Olivia Wang followed budget tour groups from mainland China
around Hong Kong to report this article.

Published May 9, 2023Updated May 10, 2023
阅读简体中文版閱讀繁體中文版

One by one the tour buses descended on the blue collar neighborhood in Hong Kong
known as To Kwa Wan — literally translated as Potato Bay — unloading throngs of
travelers from mainland China outside large restaurants where a quick lunch
awaited them inside.

Outfitted in white, red and orange ball caps to denote which tour they belonged
to, the visitors crowded the sidewalks, smoked cigarettes under a “No Smoking”
sign and bumped into the glass storefront of a real estate office where Nicky
Lam, a property agent, was rolling her eyes.

“They’re very loud,” Ms. Lam said, complaining that some of the tourists used
her office bathroom and water cooler without asking.

“One tourist came in and asked for restaurant recommendations,” she added. “I
stared at him and said, ‘This is a real estate office.’”



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The return of budget mainland tour groups in recent months for the first time
since China’s borders were closed by the pandemic in early 2020 has revived old
tensions in a city transformed by Beijing’s political crackdown.

Before the pandemic, an influx of mainlanders and their wealth into Hong Kong
sent prices and rents soaring, fueling frustrations among the city’s residents
that sometimes spilled over into outright bigotry. In the nearly three years
since Beijing imposed a sweeping national security law over Hong Kong to assert
its political dominance, criticism of the mainland has often been muted.

Now, the public response to the budget tourists — arriving on packages that cost
as little as $175 for a two-day visit — has been less than welcoming, and at
times, downright rude.


Image

A guide leading a group of mainland tourists outside of an eatery in the To Kwa
Wan neighborhood. Credit...Anthony Kwan for The New York Times


Local residents also say the tourists — who tend to travel in groups of two
dozen or more — are too noisy, are snarling traffic and are blighting public
spaces by squatting and dining on boxed lunches outdoors. One group offended
local sensibilities by slurping cup noodles outside a public toilet in Repulse
Bay, a beach redoubt of multimillion-dollar homes.



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Even some members of Hong Kong’s legislature, which is fully stacked with
pro-Beijing lawmakers, have lost patience.


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“Can we have some good quality tour groups?” Kitson Yang asked his colleagues
during a recent legislative session while holding up printed pictures of the
tourists deluging parts of the city.


Image

Tourists waiting for a bus outside an eatery in To Kwa Wan. A surge in mainland
Chinese visitors on budget tours has sparked complaints from local
residents.Credit...Anthony Kwan for The New York Times


Before the pandemic and the 2019 pro-democracy protests, mainland visitors
powered Hong Kong tourism, comprising nearly 80 percent of all arrivals in 2018.
After the city imposed some of the strictest pandemic measures in the world,
restaurants, hotels and shops in Hong Kong were starved for business. The
arrival of the budget tours coincides with the government’s push to revive
tourism in the city of 7.5 million residents. Largely because of a lack of
flights, though, high-spending tourists have stayed away,.



Budget mainland tourists don’t face that problem because they travel by bus or
boat. But local business owners have complained about their spending habits,
which typically amount to a few minor purchases in local pharmacies — akin to
visiting New York and coming away with a tube of Neosporin from Walgreens.



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“Budget tourists are mainly older people. They don’t spend much,” William Chong,
the operator of a pharmacy in Kowloon, said recently after emerging from a
six-minute burst of activity in his store — the amount of time tour guides allot
each group for shopping in any one store.

In the pharmacy, the visitors swept up ointments and instant coffee, but left
high-value goods like ginseng untouched.


Image

A pharmacy in the Tsim Sha Tsui district.Credit...Anthony Kwan for The New York
Times


On online anti-government forums, the tour groups are providing fodder for
ridicule, harking back to the days when some local residents would openly use
the slur “locusts” to refer to mainlanders who traveled to Hong Kong to buy
cheaper powdered baby formula, medicine and cosmetics to resell in China.

The taunting works both ways. Mainland users of Douyin, the domestic Chinese
version of TikTok, have been making hidden camera-style videos mocking Hong
Kongers’ poor command of Mandarin, in the predominantly Cantonese-speaking city.
Others have posted videos of instances they felt slighted by restaurant staff
for using Mandarin.



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Miu Wang, a tour guide, was recently on the second deck of a white-and-pink car
ferry in Victoria Harbor that had been converted into a floating restaurant. She
watched over dozens of mainlanders tucking into a modest spread that included
egg drop soup, stir fried lettuce and a braised chicken and potato dish that was
mostly potato.


Image

A converted car ferry in the Victoria Harbour in April. Tourists board the
ferry, styled after a New Orleans riverboat, and are treated to an inexpensive
meal and a 45-minute excursion around Hong Kong’s picturesque Victoria
Harbor.Credit...Anthony Kwan for The New York Times


A 20-year veteran of the business, she said Hong Kongers were snobs.

“I need to take care of dozens of visitors at once, “Ms. Wang said about
complaints that the tourists exhibit boorish behavior. “I can’t control each of
them.”

The city’s tourism minister, Kevin Yeung, has urged residents to be more
accommodating, even while calling for stricter oversight of visitors.

“Tourists will make the street crowded, but it is a signal of economic growth,”
Mr. Yeung said in a recent television interview. “Hong Kong people have been
known to be welcoming. It is the time to show this spirit again.”



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To deal with the increased crowds, traffic police now direct buses in
neighborhoods like To Kwa Wan. Crowd control barriers on sidewalks funnel
tourists toward restaurants.


Image

Mainland tourists lining up to board a bus in To Kwa Wan.Credit...Anthony Kwan
for The New York Times


“I wanted to travel here the last three years but I couldn’t because of the
pandemic,” said Zhang Zhanbin, 43, from Hebei Province in China’s north, who was
visiting Hong Kong for the first time on a four-day tour that cost about $400.

Mr. Zhang, a mustachioed rubber factory worker, said he could care less about
the complaints because Hong Kong was back in Chinese hands, and not a British
colony.

“I’m not too worried about Hong Kong people discriminating against us.” he said.
“After all, Hong Kong has been returned.”



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Hong Kong was supposed to maintain a high degree of autonomy for 50 years after
its return to Chinese rule in 1997. The protests that engulfed the city in 2019
were aimed at preserving those freedoms, and ultimately failed. Signs of the
city’s authoritarian turn now dot the urban landscape, from the billboards
promoting National Security Education Day to the banners extolling the words of
China’s top leader, Xi Jinping.

Those changes have made Hong Kong more attractive to mainland visitors like Guo
Xiuli, a 56-year-old retired state worker from the southern city of Chaozhou,
who spent a recent morning taking photographs in Golden Bauhinia Square, a
popular tourist site near the heart of the financial district.


Image

The Golden Bauhinia Square is a popular tourist site where flag-raising
ceremonies are held and the national anthem is played. Credit...Anthony Kwan for
The New York Times


Ms. Guo, who was not a member of a budget tour group, said she had been treated
with more respect compared with her first visit to Hong Kong in 2004, when she
felt that speaking Mandarin made her a target of bigotry.

“I used to feel rejection, indifference and impatience, especially when I spoke
to waitresses or asked for directions on the streets,” said Ms. Guo, who dressed
up for her photos in red velour heels and a face mask fashioned from lace and
rhinestones.

“I think it is because the mainland’s economy has developed,” she continued.
“Hong Kong is not so special by comparison.”

Zixu Wang contributed reporting.







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