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[...] * Register * Help * Remember Me? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- * Forum * Today's Posts * FAQ * Calendar * Forum Actions * Mark Forums Read * Quick Links * What's New? * Advanced Search * * Forum * Tools / Materials / Techniques / Products * What is West System's 410 Microlight? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1. The WoodenBoat Forum is sponsored by WoodenBoat Publications, publisher of WoodenBoat magazine. The Forum is a free service, and much like the "free" content on Public Radio, we hope you will support WoodenBoat by subscribing to this fabulous magazine. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ. You'll find answers to the frequently asked questions as well as basic rules. No need to register unless you would like to participate, although some images will only show if you are registered/logged-in. You will need to register before you can post: click the red register link or the register tab, above, right. Selling/self promotion postings are verboten on the Forum. To advertise, take a look at WoodenBoat Advertising, or use your Google Adwords account if you want to advertise on the Forum. Results 1 to 12 of 12 THREAD: WHAT IS WEST SYSTEM'S 410 MICROLIGHT? * THREAD TOOLS * Show Printable Version * * SEARCH THREAD * * Advanced Search * DISPLAY * Linear Mode * Switch to Hybrid Mode * Switch to Threaded Mode 1. 07-30-2007, 10:45 AM #1 Richard Smith * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message Senior Member Join Date Sep 2004 Location Wisconsin Posts 233 WHAT IS WEST SYSTEM'S 410 MICROLIGHT? > Can anyone tell me what West System's 410 Microlight(TM) consistes of? > The light tan colored stuff. Wood flour? > > "410 MicrolightTM is the ideal low-density filler for creating a light, > easily-worked fairing compound especially suited for fairing large areas. > Microlight mixes with greater ease than 407 Low-Density filler or > microballoons and is approximately 30% easier to sand. It feathers to a > fine edge and is also more economical for large fairing jobs. Not > recommended under dark paint or other surfaces subject to high > temperatures. Cures to a tan color." Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2. 07-30-2007, 10:56 AM #2 Dan McCosh * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message Senior Member Join Date Mar 2001 Location Grosse Pointe, Michigan, USA Posts 15,789 > Don't remember the technical name, but it is not wood. It is a > thermoplastic that mixes with the epoxy as a filler. A friend in the > composites business gave me 20 lbs. or so once--like a bag of feathers. > The reason for the warning is that it has a lower melt point than even > cured epoxy, so the filled material becomes soft in hot sunlight. I've > used this to advantage, as it makes it flexible when in the sun and a > joint moves a little, then hardens when it cools. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3. 07-30-2007, 12:02 PM #3 JimConlin * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message * Visit Homepage Senior Member Join Date Oct 2000 Location Padanaram, MA USA Posts 10,284 > Originally Posted by Richard Smith > ...It feathers to a fine edge and is also more economical for large > fairing jobs. Not recommended under dark paint or other surfaces subject > to high temperatures. Cures to a tan color." > Funny, I've never seen the words Microlight and economical in the same > sentence. It certainly is lovely stuff to work with, but the temperature > sensitivity and very high cost have ruled it out for just about > everything I do. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4. 07-30-2007, 12:03 PM #4 few3 * View Profile * View Forum Posts Banned Join Date Jul 2004 Location Deval Country Posts 398 > "Not recommended under dark paint or other surfaces subject to high > temperatures. Cures to a tan color." > I was told by West Systems, that Microlight once sanded, has microscopic > air pockets that under a dark paint, "could" and "has" caused pin head > sized dimples in dark paint. They cited one particular instance where > Microlight was used on aluminum hulls IIRC. I was told ( double check > with West, to make sure ), that after sanding the Microlight, one or two > coats of "neat" epoxy will prevent the problem by filling in the pores. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5. 07-30-2007, 12:23 PM #5 Figment * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message Gluten Enthusiast Join Date Dec 2001 Location Connecticut, of the newer England. Posts 12,956 > Now that some of the premixed putties have been refined (awl-fair, > quick-fair, etc) I don't really see a need to use microlight anymore. Of > course, I'm not counting every ounce of weight in my work. > "Visionary" is he who in every egg sees a carbonara. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6. 07-30-2007, 12:25 PM #6 ssor * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message Senior Member Join Date Jan 2005 Location Bel Air, Md Posts 3,396 > I seem to recall that it is phenolic micro ballons. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7. 07-30-2007, 02:07 PM #7 Todd Bradshaw * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message * Visit Homepage Sailmaker Join Date Jun 2000 Location Madison Wisconsin Posts 10,657 > It's a microballoon-based mixture with some other stuff added. The > problem with getting a decent paint job happens with any microballoon mix > or with straight microballoon fills. When you initially sand it smooth, > you cut open some of the balloons on the surface, exposing their hollow > insides. These are too small for paint to flow into and fill, so it traps > air inside. Stick it in the sun, let it heat up and the trapped air > expands and may pop a little hole in the paint. Even without the > potential heat problem, painting over voids and expecting the paint to > seamlessly bridge the gaps, even small ones, isn't a formula for a good, > smooth paint job. > > Sand your microballoon fills fair, give them a coat or two of plain > resin, sand it smooth (shouldn't take much) and then paint. The resin > won't flow into the cracked balloons either, but it's strong enough and > thick enough to resist blow-outs and provides a truly smooth, void-free > painting surface. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8. 07-30-2007, 02:20 PM #8 Todd Bradshaw * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message * Visit Homepage Sailmaker Join Date Jun 2000 Location Madison Wisconsin Posts 10,657 > One more thought: If you mix up a bowl-full of 410, it only takes a > couple shots of resin and a whole bunch of 410, assuming you want a > mixture that won't sag before it hardens. I havent tried to measure it, > but I wouldn't be surprised if the entire finished and faired fill > expanded enough at high temps to stand slightly proud of the surface and > no longer be fair until it cooled down again - even after being resin > coated because the temperature is going to soften the resin as well. > Perhaps that contributes to the warning about dark colors. The fills are > light enough that there is obviously an awful lot of air trapped in > there. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9. 08-01-2007, 09:09 PM #9 Richard Smith * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message Senior Member Join Date Sep 2004 Location Wisconsin Posts 233 > Thanks everyone. > > So . . . is the mixture or its component(s) (other than microballons) > available from a "generic" source? Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10. 08-01-2007, 09:16 PM #10 Thorne * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message * Visit Homepage Like my hat? Join Date Aug 2005 Location SF Bay Area- Richmond Posts 16,421 > As far as I know these are only available through West Systems -- you > could possibly buy similar materials and roll yer own, but who knows what > you'd end up with, and you'd need enough to do the whole boat ( with some > left over for any repairs) to maintain consistency. > "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look." > Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film > _The Duellists_. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11. 08-02-2007, 06:49 AM #11 Dave Carnell * View Profile * View Forum Posts * Private Message * Visit Homepage Senior Member Join Date May 2000 Location Wilmington, NC, USA Posts 638 MICROLIGHT IS PLASTIC > The reason it is not good under dark paint is that it melts. Glass > microbeads as made by 3M are far better and cheaper. Reply With Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12. 08-04-2007, 08:59 PM #12 few3 * View Profile * View Forum Posts Banned Join Date Jul 2004 Location Deval Country Posts 398 MICROLIGHT IS NOT PLASTIC, EPOXY IS > Microlight ( from it's MSDS ) contains > > -Sodium Borosilicate (Technically called HGM or Hollow Glass > Microspheres) > > -Formaldehyde Polymer with Toluene < 7% ( Technically called "stuff", and > it makes up less than 7 % of the filler ) > > -Isobutane < 5% (I have no idea how the gas is in the filler, unless it > off-gasses, but who cares, it makes up less than 5 % of the filler ) > > -Tris (dimethylaminomethyl) phenol <3% ( Technically called "other stuff" > but less than 3 % is in the filler) > > -Vinylidene Chloride < 0.3% ( Technically called "polymer stuff" but less > than 0.3% is in the filler ) > > I could be wrong here, but it seems to me that Microlight is 84.7% holow > glass microspheres ( HGM), and not plastic. > Last edited by few3; 08-04-2007 at 09:07 PM. 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