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THE WIDER IMAGE


IN THE ANDES, MOUNTAIN GUIDES BEAR WITNESS TO SHRINKING GLACIERS



THE WIDER IMAGE


IN THE ANDES, MOUNTAIN GUIDES BEAR WITNESS TO SHRINKING GLACIERS



A group of tourists climb the Mateo mountain, in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May
8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce




IN THE ANDES, MOUNTAIN GUIDES BEAR WITNESS TO SHRINKING GLACIERS



By Ivan Alvarado and Angela Ponce

Filed July 18, 2024, 10 a.m. GMT

Photography by Ivan Alvarado and Angela Ponce

Reporting by Alexander Villegas

Filed July 18, 2024, 10:00 a.m. GMT

On a clear day, Chile’s towering 5,400-meter El Plomo mountain can be seen from
the capital, Santiago. The glacier-capped Andean peak has been climbed and
revered for centuries, with the Incas carrying out human sacrifices at the
summit.

The route to the top is still the same path paved by the Incas, with
archeological remnants scattered along the way. An Incan mummy was found near
the summit in 1954, perfectly preserved due to the mountain’s dry and cold
conditions.

Now the mountain is crumbling. Rising global temperatures due to climate change
have led the glacier to retreat and the permafrost to melt. New lagoons have
formed and ruptured, landslides have injured climbers and massive sinkholes have
opened up, breaking up the ancient path to the summit.


A view shows the Iver glacier close to the El Plomo mountain summit, in the
Andes mountain range, in the Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile, April 4, 2024.

“Every year things are changing more. Every year there’s more sadness,”
Francisco Gallardo, a 60-year-old muleteer who has worked on the mountain since
he was 14, told Reuters at the Federacion base camp, about 1,300 meters below
the summit.

Gallardo said his family has been working at El Plomo for generations, but he
thinks they have about a decade left before they’re forced to move.

“We’re going have to go somewhere else, see what we can do, maybe head south,”
he said.


Gallardo loads mountaineering equipment belonging to mountain guide Luis Diaz
(right), 44, as he leaves the mountain the day after ascending it, at the El
Plomo mountain area, Chile, April 5, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

Just a few years ago, the last push to the summit required a glacier traverse.
Now, the final ascent is a rocky hillside.

Gallardo said mules used to be able to reach another camp about 500 meters
further up, and he remembers mules feasting on grass around the base camp.

The Federacion camp was barren during a visit in April, with dirt and rock
piling up near mountain faces that Gallardo said used to be covered with snow
and ice.

“The changes we're seeing are unprecedented in recent human history,” said Pablo
Wainstein, a civil engineer who has studied Andean and Arctic glaciers and
permafrost for more than two decades.


Mountain guide Daniela Pagli, 43, holds a piece of melted ice from the Iver
glacier, Chile, April 4, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

The Andes mountains present different types of frozen formations, including
covered and uncovered glaciers as well as rock glaciers. The latter, composed of
a mix of debris and ground ice, react more slowly to changes in climate than
uncovered glaciers where the ice is exposed. At high altitudes, the mountains
may also have a layer of permafrost, defined as ground with temperatures below
freezing for more than two years. Where ice is present in permafrost, it may
bond soil, gravel and sand together.

“If permafrost degrades, it's not ‘cementing’ anymore the ground and it leads to
more rockfalls in mountainous terrain,” Wainstein said, adding that permafrost
change is harder to study since it involves the thermal state of the ground and
it’s not visible on the surface.

Glaciers in the Andes are also understudied compared to other regions due to how
vast the range is and how remote many of the mountains are, Wainstein said.


A drone view shows climbers ascending near a hole formed in a landslide area at
the El Plomo mountain, Chile, April 5, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

Among the best witnesses to these changes are the people who work on the
mountain, climbing the same routes year after year, decade after decade. Reuters
spoke to a dozen local guides and mountain rescue workers across three countries
and trekked four mountains across the Andes to hear and see how conditions have
transformed.

Osvaldo Segundo Villegas started working in mountain rescue in 1964 and
participated in the rescue of the Uruguayan rugby team that inspired the
Oscar-nominated film, Society of the Snow. Villegas, now 80, says his first
ascent of El Plomo was in the 1960s, when a long glacier crossing was needed and
the slopes were covered in beautiful 3-meter high ‘penitentes’ — thin blades of
compact snow and ice oriented to the sun, formed as hard-packed snow melts in
the dry, cold air of the high Andes.


Villegas, a member of Socorro Andino, a volunteer organization that rescues
people in mountain areas, holds an old picture of one of their first off-road
rescue vehicles, at their headquarters’ warehouse, in Santiago, Chile, April 16,
2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

Some hanging glaciers he used to climb are now just rock face. “When I am gone
and you are gone, everything’s going to be lost,” Villegas said. “There were
places in Patagonia I went to that were all glacier, now it’s forest. And that’s
how it’s going to be.”

Wainstein said such changes are consistent with scientific predictions. The
Andes mountain range is the longest in the world and has some of the
fastest-disappearing ice packs. Venezuela was the first country to lose its last
glacier this past May.

The Andes are home to approximately 99% of the world's tropical glaciers, which
are more susceptible to climate change because they're consistently near or at
freezing point. Data from the U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration (NOAA) shows global temperatures have increased 0.06 Celsius
(0.11 degrees Fahrenheit) per decade since 1850, accelerating to 0.20 C (0.36 F)
per decade since 1982.


Mountain guides Luis Diaz, 44, and Daniela Pagli, 43, along with Reuters
journalist Alexander Villegas, walk along a path on their way to the El Plomo
mountain summit, Chile, April 4, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

A barefoot climber sets up carabiners as he prepares to go up to an area of the
Lo Curro mountain, in Santiago, Chile, April 18, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

Members of Socorro Andino, a volunteer organization that rescues people in
mountain areas, take a break after attending a training team session day, at the
Lo Curro mountain area, in Santiago, Chile, April 18, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan
Alvarado

The Andes are an essential part of the region’s water cycle. The mountains store
water as snow and ice during the winter and slowly melt out during warmer
months. They supply millions across the region with water, not only for drinking
but also for agriculture, hydroelectricity and mining.

Glacial retreat has led to acidic rocks being exposed for the first time in
centuries, leading meltwater to acidify and get contaminated with heavy metals
that then leach into other water supplies as the region already faces dwindling
water supplies.

Erratic and heavy rainfall has degraded the ecosystems, making them more
susceptible to erosion, landslides and severe floods.


 1.  
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 11. 

Horses graze close to the El Cepo valley, on the way to the El Plomo mountain
area, Chile, April 3, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

Gallardo rides a horse along a valley, in the El Plomo mountain area, Chile,
April 3, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

A plant grows among stones, in the Farellones area, on the way to El Plomo
mountain, Chile, April 3, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

A view shows a pirca, a low stone wall made without mortar, next to the Iver
glacier, close to the El Plomo mountain summit, Chile, April 4, 2024.
REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

A climber ascends a rock at the Lo Curro mountain area, in Santiago, Chile,
April 18, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

Dario Arancibia, 52, a member of Socorro Andino, sets up carabiners and ropes
before rescuing a team member during a drill as they attend a training team
session day, at the Lo Curro mountain area, in Santiago, Chile, April 18, 2024.
REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

A drone view shows a landslide on the El Plomo mountain foothills, Chile, April
5, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

Dawn breaks over the Cristobal Bizzarri Lyon mountain shelter at Federacion base
camp on El Plomo, Chile, April 4, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

Mountain guide Daniela Pagli prepares a meal inside the Cristobal Bizzarri Lyon
mountain shelter at Federacion base camp during sunset on El Plomo, Chile, April
3, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

A view shows the dawn seen from El Plomo, Chile, April 4, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan
Alvarado

A drone view shows the Piuquenes lagoon next to a path that leads to the El
Plomo mountain, Chile, April 3, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado

PreviousNext

Rain in Peru

Temperatures are rising faster at higher altitude, with one multinational study
published in the International Journal of Applied Earth Observation and
Geoinformation showing that daytime winter surface temperatures in the Andes
rose by 0.50 C (0.9 F) per decade since 2000 at an elevation of 1,000 to 1,500
meters, but by 1.7 C (3.06 F) above 5,000 meters.

Octavio Salazar made his first ascent of the season of Peru’s Yanapaccha
mountain in early May. “It shouldn't be raining,” he said at base camp. At this
time of year, rains would normally have passed; and at an altitude of 5,000
meters, any precipitation should be snow.

Salazar and his brother, Eloy, are indigenous Quechua brothers who have spent
decades climbing mountains in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, the largest
glacier-covered area in the tropics and home to multiple 6,000-meter peaks,
including the country’s tallest mountain.


A view of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May
8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

Ice is seen on the Pastoruri glacier in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May 7, 2024.
REUTERS/Angela Ponce

The brothers started an expedition agency in 2010. One of their first activities
of this season was this ice climbing class and expedition to Yanapaccha’s
5,460-meter summit. When they passed a rocky hill to start the ice climb, they
saw the glacier had retreated several meters compared to last season. Now a
further descent down unstable rocky moraine was needed to reach the glacier,
black from dirt, pollution and a lack of new snowfall.

The nighttime glacier traverse required jumping over crevasses, straddling thin
ice crossings and quickly crossing areas at risk of rockfall. The summit, known
for some of the best views in the Cordillera Blanca, was shrouded by gray,
freezing rain that formed a layer of ice around everything it touched.

“We feel like the climate has had such drastic changes that they often put
everything you knew in doubt,” said Edson Ramirez, a park ranger and risk
assessor for the Huascaran National Park, which comprises 90% of the Cordillera
Blanca.


Ice caps melt on the Nevado Pastoruri mountain, in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May
7, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

“Having rain drops at 5,000 meters isn’t common or natural. It’s an indicator
that pressure, temperature are completely altered,” Ramirez said.

Rain also means that there’s no new snowpack to replace glacier mass as it
slowly moves down the mountain.

“When there’s no more glacier to cover up crevasses, it becomes a difficult
maze,” Ramirez said.


Rusbel Vidal, 37, a tour guide, looks out over the landscape from the summit of
the Mateo mountain in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May 8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela
Ponce

A mountain guide checks the climbing harnesses of tourists before climbing
Mateo, Peru, May 8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

A group of tourists climb Mateo in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May 8, 2024.
REUTERS/Angela Ponce

It’s not just changes in climate that have fueled more accidents; there’s also
been a surge in visitors, many with limited experience, says Ramirez.

But even experienced guides are in danger. Last year, Edgar Huaman was crossing
an area on Huascaran, Peru’s tallest mountain. He was leading two French
clients, when an ice bridge collapsed, killing him.

“He was one of the best guides, really strong,” said Rusbel Vidal, who got his
certification alongside Huaman.


A split screen shows Nevado Pastoruri mountain in 2015 (top) and in 2024
(bottom). REUTERS

The shifting climate is also affecting where and how winter sports are carried
out. Peru’s Pastoruri glacier used to host ski competitions. Now it’s a glacier
in extinction, with the remaining ice field cordoned off because of the risk of
ice fall.

“Anything humans do has some level of risk, but we’re not going to stop enjoying
our mountains because of that,” said Cristian Ramirez, the head of Chile’s
mountain rescue unit in Santiago.

“The Andes are the backbone of this territory,” he said. “In some way they
modulate our life because they collect ice, they collect water and we use that
water to live. So mountains are life and we’re privileged to have this mountain
range here.”


 1. 
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 5. 
 6. 
 7. 
 8. 

A view of the lagoons formed by the deglaciation of Mateo mountain in the
Peruvian Andes, Peru, May 8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

Ice caps melt on the Nevado Pastoruri mountain in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May
7, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

Tourists climb Mateo in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May 8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela
Ponce

Tourists ride on horseback to the Nevado Pastoruri mountain, in the Peruvian
Andes, Peru, May 7, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

Graffiti made by tourists marks the rocks on Nevado Pastoruri, Peru, May 7,
2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

Tourists look out over the city of Huaraz, Peru, May 6, 2024. REUTERS/Angela
Ponce

Pedestrians pass by an advertisement for trips to snow-capped mountains in
Huaraz, Peru, May 6, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

A view of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May
8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce

PreviousNext

The Wider Image

Photography: Ivan Alvarado and Angela Ponce

Reporting: Alexander Villegas

Photo editing and design: Eve Watling and Maye-E Wong

Text editing: Claudia Parsons



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A view shows the Iver glacier close to the El Plomo mountain summit, in the
Andes mountain range, in the Santiago Metropolitan Region, Chile, April 4,
2024.1 / 12

Gallardo loads mountaineering equipment belonging to mountain guide Luis Diaz
(right), 44, as he leaves the mountain the day after ascending it, at the El
Plomo mountain area, Chile, April 5, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado2 / 12

A drone view shows climbers ascending near a hole formed in a landslide area at
the El Plomo mountain, Chile, April 5, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado3 / 12

Villegas, a member of Socorro Andino, a volunteer organization that rescues
people in mountain areas, holds an old picture of one of their first off-road
rescue vehicles, at their headquarters’ warehouse, in Santiago, Chile, April 16,
2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado4 / 12

Mountain guides Luis Diaz, 44, and Daniela Pagli, 43, along with Reuters
journalist Alexander Villegas, walk along a path on their way to the El Plomo
mountain summit, Chile, April 4, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado5 / 12

A barefoot climber sets up carabiners as he prepares to go up to an area of the
Lo Curro mountain, in Santiago, Chile, April 18, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan Alvarado6 /
12

Members of Socorro Andino, a volunteer organization that rescues people in
mountain areas, take a break after attending a training team session day, at the
Lo Curro mountain area, in Santiago, Chile, April 18, 2024. REUTERS/Ivan
Alvarado7 / 12

A view of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May
8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce8 / 12

Ice is seen on the Pastoruri glacier in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May 7, 2024.
REUTERS/Angela Ponce9 / 12

Rusbel Vidal, 37, a tour guide, looks out over the landscape from the summit of
the Mateo mountain in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May 8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela
Ponce10 / 12

A mountain guide checks the climbing harnesses of tourists before climbing
Mateo, Peru, May 8, 2024. REUTERS/Angela Ponce11 / 12

A group of tourists climb Mateo in the Peruvian Andes, Peru, May 8, 2024.
REUTERS/Angela Ponce12 / 12