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Photo Essay


New Zealand's
Darkest Skies


By: Jodie James


Beauty meets sustainability at this stargazing haven


Plan Your Trip


The night sky is dotted with more stars than I ever imagined. I lay back, look
up and immediately feel at peace. Stargazing on New Zealand’s Great Barrier
Island, a designated Dark Sky Sanctuary, brings a remote connection to nature
unlike anything I’ve experienced before. The wonder of it all is made extra
special by my tour guide Hilde Hoven, the warm and knowledgeable co-founder of
Good Heavens: Dark Sky Experiences, who is guiding me on my night sky
exploration.


Great Barrier sits to the northeast of New Zealand’s North Island, and I soon
discover that its dramatic landscape — sandy white beaches, rugged cliffs and
thick bush — feels remarkably far from Auckland’s city life. But in fact, the
110-square mile island is just a 40-minute journey via prop plane from the city
(or a few hours via ferry).




Flying over Kaitoke and Medlands Beach in Barrier Air's tiny, 12-seat airplane.




I opted to fly to the island, and after landing at Claris Airport, make my way
south to Medlands Beach, to a spot between two pine trees, appropriately called
“Twin Pines.” It’s here that Hilde, a Dark Sky Ambassador and astronomy guide,
greets me with a hug.

Hilde explains that Great Barrier Island is New Zealand’s sixth largest island,
and today around 1,200 people live there. “Islanders in general are a
self-sufficient lot,” she tells me. “Throughout the ages, they’ve been used to
providing for themselves.”


Guide Hilde Hoven walks along Medlands Beach to point out her favorite
stargazing spot, Twin Pines (behind her).


Hilde shows off her telescope.


Hilde’s telescope and moon chairs set up where we would later gaze at the stars.


On top of the sand dunes, Hilde has set up a circle of the most comfortable
chairs I’ve ever sat in, ready to share her wisdom (and some delicious
brownies). Earlier in the day, she set up a powerful 8-inch telescope for a
closer look at the night sky. Though truly, the experience was just as magical
gazing up at the stars with mere binoculars, and listening to her share tales
about the constellations, their mythology, and what makes seeing them from Great
Barrier Island so special.


Looking south towards Medlands Beach and the Twin Pines stargazing spot.


The southwest side of the island at Tryphena.


View from above at Awana Bay on the east side of the island.


“We’ve curated the most fascinating facts and stories,” she tells me. “During
our experiences, we combine fact and fiction – we are captivated by this
nighttime world much like our ancestors have been throughout the ages.”

Hilde explains that depending on which hemisphere you’re in while stargazing,
constellations are seen from different perspectives — and will have varying
mythological interpretations.


A rainbow over Medlands Beach near Twin Pines.





One of the most interesting details about Great Barrier Island is that it’s one
of the world’s 15 “Dark Sky Sanctuaries,” officially protected from artificial
light. “The preservation of these areas is so important because we are losing
our dark skies,” Hilde tells us. “Light pollution increases by two percent every
year worldwide and many people living in urban areas have never seen the Milky
Way.”




Soaking up the stellar views at Twin Pines with other stargazers.


Looking west from Twin Pines, trying to spot constellations, planets and other
celestial bodies.


In my conversations with Hilde, I learn that Dark Sky Sanctuaries like Great
Barrier Island are designated by The International Dark Sky Association in the
United States to promote their long-term conservation for scientific, natural,
educational, cultural, heritage, and public enjoyment. They often lack utility
electricity to power outdoor lighting, allowing them to retain nearly all of
their natural nighttime darkness.

The island’s dedication to limiting exposure to artificial light is one piece of
a larger commitment to sustainability and self-sufficiency. I was encouraged to
keep this in mind and leave my hair dryer at home. On the beach, the only source
of artificial light I could see was the beam of my flashlight.


The night sky dazzles the island's stargazers.


The view across the bay from Tryphena. You can see some houses up on the hill
with their lights on, and light pollution from Auckland from behind the hill.


“We have found that most stargazers love nature as much as we do, and they are
the perfect visitor,” Hilde says. “They all seem to be more than happy to ‘make
do’ while experiencing what it’s like to live in paradise.”

Forging a relationship with nature on Great Barrier goes beyond looking at the
stars – simply walking on the beaches during the daytime gave me a place to
rest, restore, self-reflect, and, most importantly, breathe.


Two famous Pohutukawa trees (also known as the New Zealand Christmas Tree) on
Medlands Beach.




Jump to top


Plan your Trip


Where to Stay




Auckland, new Zealand


Four Points by Sheraton Auckland


Book Now


Insider Tips


A few things to keep in mind when visiting to make your experience as easy as it
is magical:



 * Rent a car to traverse the narrow, rural roads that wind through the bush.
   
 * Make a plan for eating — most stores close early.
   
 * Most importantly, be prepared for the changing weather — take your shorts,
   but also pack a jacket.
   
 * And obviously, bring your camera.




Photo Essay by Jodie James





Jodie James is one of New Zealand's most sought-after lifestyle, documentary,
and commercial photographers. Her work takes a creative approach to visual
storytelling, balancing the beauty of the natural landscape with an empathetic
look into the human experience. This project was created in partnership with The
Luupe, a global community of women and non-binary creators.




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CREDITs


Chelo Segear, Photo Editor | Robin Bennefield, Editor-in-Chief | Valerie
Conners, Managing Editor | Rebecca Hart, Design Director | Kia Delgado, Senior
UX/UI Designer | Kristen Brooks, Program Manager



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