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IN STITCHES SEWING

Vintage sewing machine repairs and sales.

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POSTS

Posted on June 18, 2023


SUNDAY MUSINGS…

I picked up this Bernina 707 Minimatic some time back before I had to deal with
some extended illness and finally got around to changing a cracked cam gear,
which was not yet causing any issues but upon removal could see the crack
extending all the way through the centre.

The machine (not for sale) is in otherwise mint condition and came complete with
all it’s accessories, manual, and case and according to some folks in the
business, these are probably one of the finest portable machines ever made and
it would be hard to disagree. It is 3/4 sized and the counterpart to the full
size Bernina 731, and retains full size power in a more compact package.

At the time of sale these wee machines still sold for the equivalent of $3000.00
(2023 dollars)) and were a large investment.

Being a vintage kind of guy in most respects I have been on the hunt for a
simple watch that has nothing but two hands and some numbers, and one that is
not grossly oversized as most modern watches are.

This Timex Indiglo “Easy Reader” fit the bill quite nicely and while a new one
costs $65.00 CAD I snagged this one at an antique sale for $20.00 and it
included a Speidel band which sells for more than what I paid.

My friend also loves old watches and her Caravelle winder (1977) needed a band
adjustment so I brought that over where I could look at it under the magnifier
and loupe to remove the extra links. It was a much easier band to adjust than
the Speidel.

After being laid low for over a month with a nasty staph infection and post
infection fatigue it has been nice to get back to work… this beautiful 221 was
brought to us by an antique store we work with and we dropped it off this week.

We were totally charmed by this music box, that was made in the late 1800’s, it
has been fully restored and plays eight melodies in sequence and it is also for
sale, but I don’t have an extra $3000.00 and I have even checked the couch.



After a slow start due to a very dry spring, the garden is coming along nicely
and it looks like it isn’t going to stop raining for quite a few days, we really
need the rain here as the province has been on fire and our farmers are not
going to have a good year.

With that I’ll wish everyone a happy Father’s Day and go and enjoy my day off.

Happy Sewing.

Posted on May 17, 2023


VINTAGE SHOP… VINTAGE TOOLS.

Between 1965 and 1977 Emco of Austria produced the venerable SL mini lathe/mill
and they have quite the following among collectors and hobbyists who want or
need a lathe that excels at making small precise parts.

It is only 16 inches wide and the maximum capacity for parts is three inches in
diameter, with a bed that will handle nothing over 5 inches… my small Atlas will
handle 6 inch parts with 18 inches on the bed. It has a motor that is the same
size as a sewing machine (1 amp) while my main lathe has a 1/2 hp motor.

It can also be set up to be used as a small mill, and there were also other
attachments like a table saw that could have been ordered.

The first thing I made was a locknut for a pair of Gingher scissors I found at
an antique mall, modifying an 8/32 locknut and turning it down to better match
the profile of the original.



It does a beautiful job turning brass and aluminium as it was designed for
softer metals, but handles the steel locknut just fine, as I did upgrade the
tooling to carbide.

With my vintage Atlas (1977) and my drill / mill set up I made a carriage stop
for the wee lathe.

Posted on April 12, 2023


IN THE WORKSHOP…

Starting another run of “Ultimate” thread stands and after giving the lathe a
through cleaning and oiling we start by prepping the brass rod by turning it
down to size before it gets cut into sections.

Once upon a time I cut all these little slugs by hand but the addition of a
metal band saw makes the work easier and faster.

After cutting, the brass gets centre drilled for further machining and turned
down and squared off as the dimension of the base has to be pretty exact. I made
the dial indicator holder on my little mill to measure these cuts accurately.

The holes for the thread arm and lower set screw get drilled on the press, the
drilling of the longitudinal holes will get done on the lathe since they are
just that more accurate.

Stay tuned…

Posted on April 4, 2023


THE SINGER 191J

The Singer 191 was made in a number of countries with a few variations in colour
and drive options, the J model was made in Canada and just like the 15-91 (on
which it was based) it uses a direct drive potted motor.

Mechanically it is a Singer 15 under the bed, while the upper casting is almost
the same as the later aluminium 201 Mk2 and 15-75, with a front mounted tension
control and a feed dog control under the bed mounted spool pin.

Just like a Singer 15, these machines are built like tanks, are nearly
indestructible, weigh a ton (they are cast iron), and will sew pretty much
anything you can get under the foot.

The stitch quality is also exemplary whether you are sewing quilting cotton, or
heavier materials like denim or canvas.

This machine is for sale…

Posted on March 28, 2023


THE GERMANS ARE COMING


Pfaff 230 Automatic – 1955

Whenever I hear people say working on vintage sewing machines is easy, I ask
them if they have ever worked on any of the Pfaff Automatics.

Removing the cam module on the 230/332 is fairly straightforward (unlike a Pfaff
1222) and this should be done for cleaning and lubrication as you cannot access
the lower assemblies with this in place.

It is not difficult to remove the cam module as all you need to do is to remove
the spring assembly (2 screws) and then remove the 4 big screws that hold the
cam module in place. With that done you can clean the cam module with kerosene
and then re-lubricate it with sewing oil.

Before removal make sure that you set the cam module to position 1, and do not
engage the cam driver while it is out of the machine as you could throw out the
cam positioning.

The rest of the moving assemblies should then be cleaned with kerosene and then
re-lubricated with sewing oil, while adjustment to the needle position and zig
zag are much more complicated and should be referred to a professional, unless
you have very good mechanical skills and a service manual.

All in all, it is a superbly designed machine, the modular cam drive is genius,
and I think I prefer working on cranky Pfaffs more than I like working on cranky
Berninas.

If the machine is running well and just needs cleaning and lubrication it is a
user friendly kind of job, this 230 runs like a top but the zig zag and needle
position settings were all bit off.

My “mint” 332 recently had a similar over haul as the zig zag control was
completely frozen and it required a lot of disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly
before it would run and operate properly.

Pfaff 230/332 cam module with springs removed

This is the heart of a 230/332 automatic and where all the magic happens, the
cam module is driven by an eccentric roller on the main shaft whereas other
companies like Singer, Bernina, Elna, and Husqvarna used gear driven cams.

Those Germans were always thinking out of the box and this system was used well
into the seventies with the Pfaff 1222, although that cam module is much more
complex and difficult to remove.

Pfaff 332 Automatic – 1955

My recently acquired Pfaff 332 Automatic is almost “mint” but had been put away
for 30 years, and the zig zag control was completely frozen, this should never
be forced as you could break or dislodge the dial.

A full disassembly and service was done on this machine and now it is running
perfectly, these are such a fast and smooth running machine and they make
absolutely perfect stitches.

Pfaff 1222e Cam module

The Pfaff 1222e is a far more complex machine and also utilizes more
electronics, this is a machine that is not for the faint of heart when it comes
to servicing but again… it is a brilliantly designed machine.

Happy sewing.

Posted on March 22, 2023


PFAFF SEWING MACHINES – THE 332



Pfaff 332 – 1955 – Permanent Collection

Pfaff is a very old sewing machine company founded in 1862 by Georg Michael
Pfaff who was an instrument maker, and by 1910 they had already sold a million
machines, not many relative to Singer but still quite a milestone.

By 1950 they hade produced 5 million machines and were producing the venerable
model 130 and in the mid 1950’s they introduced the 260 flat bed, and it’s
sister, the free arm model 332 are mechanical marvels. These models added built
in stitch capability far beyond what the 130 could do with it’s external
embroidery attachment and were competing head to head with companies like
Bernina, Husqvarna and Elna. these companies had also introduced multi stitch
models with the Bernina 530 also having built in stitch capability.

The finish is the same as Pfaff’s industrial models and is quite durable, the
white dials can crack if the machine is stored poorly or abused but rarely fail.

Open the hood on a 260 or a 332 and you will think you are looking at a clock,
or an automobile engine as these are extremely complex machines internally, but
from a users standpoint a very straightforward machine to use, save for needing
a Rosetta stone, or a stitch wheel to set the machine up for it’s range if
utility and embroidery stitches.

These are extremely powerful machines that will sew anything you can get under
the foot, and have a presser foot system designed to sew heavy fabrics, while
being able to sew the finest silks and cottons.

They are also very fast, being capable of sewing 2500 stitches a minute with
nary a vibration.

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The stitch quality of these machines is perfect whether you are straight
stitching, zig zagging, or using one of the many decorative or utility stitches,
a drop feed allows you to do free motion and the vertical rotary hook is well
suited for this kind of work.

Although this model is now almost 70 years old, they are still highly sought
after, primarily by people who sew more than those who collect machines for
display… if they are used regularly and kept oiled they work flawlessly day in
and day out.

They rarely have any mechanical issues no matter how hard they have been used,
but can be quite a bit of work to free up if they have been left to sit for long
periods of time.

Like the Husqvarna 21, the Pfaff 260 and 332 set the template and a standard for
Pfaff machines well into the 1970’s with models like the 360 and 1222 which are
also outstanding in their own right.

I am somewhat partial to the pure mechanical machines like the 332 that have no
extra electronics like needle position sensors, or automatic needle lifts, and
because they were the first of their kind.

Happy sewing.



Posted on March 22, 2023


THE HUSQVARNA / VIKING 21 – LEGENDARY

In 1955 Husqvarna introduced the model 21 which remained in production until
1966 and it is widely considered by many sewists and people in the industry, as
one of the greatest machines ever designed.

While many will focus on the 21’s capabilities (which we will get to), what
strikes most people first is the beautiful design and the colour ; the free arm
is rather small for a full size machine, the harp has that lovely curve, and the
entire machine has an almost art deco look, despite being made in the 1950’s.

There isn’t a square corner anywhere on this machine and the green simply
sparkles…



When we get under the hood we find a lovely rotary hook design, a powerful
motor, some rather complex internal parts, and a transmission !

This is not a simple machine but the build quality of the 21 is so good, they
rarely have any issues except being sticky from dis-use.

Unlike machines that have an electric speed reducer, the model 21 has a physical
transmission to provide a much lower gear for sewing heavy materials, and I have
often said these machines will sew a bumper on a Volvo.

Multiple stitches are available via the use of 4 cams, that provide a total of
20 stitches and the stitch quality of the 21 is absolutely perfect. with a drop
feed the 21 is also capable of some excellent free motion work, which is
something a vertical rotary hook machine excels at.

The Husqvarna 21 was such a great design that this served as the template for
Husqvarna machines for the next 20 years and beyond, it was superseded by the
2000 series in the mid sixties which is a very similar machine that has a
different body shell, and utilized color-matic cams and colour coded dials.

Much of the DNA of the 21 lives in the 2000 series, the Bakelite controls were
replaced by more modern plastics and they came in many other colours like orange
and deep red. The earlier 2000 series were also all metal machines while later
versions started using more plastics in the internal assemblies. This was done
to reduce the need for lubrication and to make an already quiet machine, even
quieter.

Husqvarna 2000 – 1968

In Canada these machines were sold as Husqvarna as Viking was a name already
trade marked by Eaton’s Canada for their appliance line, in the United States
they were sold as Viking machines.

Posted on March 16, 2023


WHY BUY A VINTAGE MACHINE ?


Singer 4452 “Heavy Duty”

These days you can pop down to x-mart and pick up a new Singer HD machine for
just under $300.00 and for a time, this machine will likely do what you paid
for, and sew pretty much anything you put under the foot. It has a sold medal
chassis that is surrounded by a plastic shell and plastic parts and from
experience in servicing these Chinese made machines, they really aren’t made for
the long haul.

They use a similar drop in bobbin system like the earlier Brazilian made
machines which are also known for having issues because the assembly isn’t metal
and often breaks. The hook gear and bobbin winder assembly are also plastic and
we have seen countless failures in these, and similar machines. replacement
parts are available and they can be a little spendy.

Rewind the clock back the the 1960’s and you will find machines like this 1963
Singer 500A that originally sold for around 400.00 in Canada (4000.00 in 2023)
that were built to an exceptional standard, with no plastic in the critical
drive parts, with a precision made steel bobbin case, and a completely (metal)
gear driven drive.

The 500A is a wee bit more fragile than the 401A that preceded it, namely in the
top cover and nose plate that can be damaged if you mishandle them but with
proper care (it is a precision tool) there should not be any issues.

An old Singer guy once told me that these machines were so much better than many
of the new commercial machines and we have customers who use these machines day
in and day out to do commercial work with no issues.

The Singer 500A and Singer 401A… just a few examples of mid century machines
that will still sew circles around most modern machines. It is rare that any
come to us needing anything more than cleaning and lubrication.

Singer 500A Singer 401A

There are many more variants of the Singer 4xx series like the 403 and 404 and
then there are the German versions of the 4 series that are truly exceptional
like the 411G (flat bed) and 431G (free arm), just to name a few.

Posted on March 15, 2023


THE SINGER 206K “SWING NEEDLE”.

If there is one lesser known and completely under rated Singer machine the 206k
should top that list.

These were the earliest zig zag models that Singer offered in the late 1930’s
and the second generation of these machines appeared after World War 2,
eventually evolving into the 306, 319, and 320 models. The model is very German
looking as they were designed there originally, as a competitor to Pfaff and
other European marques.

These machines use a cleated belt drive which makes them exceptionally quiet and
light running, and have a vertical rotary hook which gives them a smoothness of
operation, a nigh perfect stitch, and they are absolutely wonderful for free
motion work.

The 206k is not as commonly encountered as the 306, as it would seem they had
lower production numbers, probably because Singer moved to producing the 306
which is the same mechanically, but adds cam capability in some variants, and
has a more modern looking casting.

The Singer 306k, in black… another awesome machine. Some variants did not have
cam capability and were virtually identical to the 206k save for the bodywork.

A stitch test… and one of the best designed zag zag feet ever.

Happy sewing !

Posted on March 7, 2023


THE SINGER 301… MAGNIFICENT.

When Singer introduced the 301 in 1951 it was a revolutionary machine for it’s
time, taking the rotary hook system from the 221 and combining it with the
direct gear drive system of the venerable 201.

The machine was cast aluminium and is light enough to carry with one hand, is
full sized, and capable if running at 1600 stitches a minute with nary a
vibration.

They cost the equivalent of $3200.00 cad when they were new (275.00 in 1951) so
were a significant purchase, and preceded the later slant needle models like the
403 and 500 which added multi stitch capabilities. These later models used a
drop in class 66 bobbin instead of the vertical rotary hook.

These are a favourite among quilters and many of our customers who have
discovered the 301 / 301A have found their Singer 221 Featherwights don’t see
nearly as much use. the 301 is not much heavier and much more capable due to a
more powerful motor and full size harp space.

We currently have quite a few of these wonderful machines available for purchase
and if you are local we are always happy to arrange a test drive.


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