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* Baby Care
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A HISTORY OF COSMETICS
Civilizations have used cosmetics – though not always recognizable compared to
today’s advanced products – for centuries in religious rituals, to enhance
beauty, and to promote good health.
Cosmetics usage throughout history can be indicative of a civilization’s
practical concerns, such as protection from the sun, indication of class, or
conventions of beauty.
The timeline below represents a brief history of cosmetics, beginning with the
Ancient Egyptians in 10,000 BCE through modern developments in the United
States. You can use the following navigation to jump to specific points in time.
COSMETICS THROUGH THE AGES
* Cosmetics in the Ancient World
* Cosmetics in the Early Common Era
* Cosmetics in the Middle Ages
* Renaissance Cosmetics
* 19th and Early 20th Century Global Cosmetics Developments
IMPORTANT INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENTS IN THE UNITED STATES
* Growth of the Industry
* World War I & Aftermath
* The Roaring 20s
* The Great Depression
* World War II & Aftermath
* The Modern Era of Cosmetics
* The 1970s
* The 1980s
* The 1990s
* The 2000s
COSMETICS IN THE ANCIENT WORLD
10,000 BCE:
Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Men and women in
Egypt use scented oils and ointments to clean and soften their skin and mask
body odor. Oils and creams are used for protection against the hot Egyptian sun
and dry winds. Myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint,
rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and almond oil provide the
basic ingredients of most perfumes Egyptians use in religious rituals.
4000 BCE:
Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and lead ore) and malachite
(bright green paste of copper minerals) to their faces for color and definition.
They use kohl (a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper, different
colored coppers ores, lead, ash, and ochre) to adorn the eyes in an almond
shape. Women carry cosmetics to parties in makeup boxes and keep them under
their chairs.
3000 BCE:
The Chinese stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin, beeswax, and egg.
The colors are used as a representation of social class: Chou dynasty royals
wear gold and silver, with subsequent royals wearing black or red. Lower classes
are forbidden to wear bright colors on their nails.
Grecian women paint their faces with white lead and apply crushed mulberries as
rouge. The application of fake eyebrows, often made of oxen hair, is also
fashionable.
1500 BCE:
Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to make their faces
white. Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth are painted gold or black, and henna dyes
are applied to stain hair and faces.
1000 BCE:
Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder and fashion
crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron.
COSMETICS IN THE EARLY COMMON ERA (CE)
100
In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and sheep fat and
blood on their fingernails for polish. In addition, mud baths come into vogue,
and some Roman men dye their hair blonde.
300-400
Henna is used in India both as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art form in which
complex designs are painted on the hands and feet using a paste made from the
henna plant, especially before a Hindu wedding. Henna is also used in some North
African cultures.
COSMETICS IN THE MIDDLE AGES
1200
Perfumes are first imported to Europe from the Middle East as a result of the
Crusades.
1300
In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society women wear egg
whites over their faces to create the appearance of a paler complexion. Some
people believe, however, that cosmetics blocked proper circulation and therefore
pose a health threat.
RENAISSANCE COSMETICS
1400-1500
Italy and France emerge as the main centers of cosmetics manufacturing in
Europe, and only the aristocracy has access. Arsenic is sometimes used in face
powder instead of lead. The modern notion of complex scent-making evolves in
France. Early fragrances are amalgams of naturally occurring ingredients. Later,
chemical processes for combining and testing scents surpass their arduous and
labor-intensive predecessors.
1500-1600
European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a variety of products,
including white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England is one well-known user
of white lead, with which she creates a look known as “the Mask of Youth.”
Blonde hair rises in popularity as it is considered angelic. Mixtures of black
sulfur, alum, and honey are painted onto the hair and lighten with sun exposure.
19TH AND EARLY 20TH CENTURY GLOBAL COSMETICS DEVELOPMENTS
1800
Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder, replacing the previously used
deadly mixtures of lead and copper. One such mixture, Ceruse, which is made from
white lead, is later discovered to be toxic and blamed for health problems
including facial tremors, muscle paralysis, and even death.
Queen Victoria publicly declares makeup improper. It is viewed as vulgar and
acceptable only for use by actors.
1900
In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-aged women to appear youthful
while acting as hostesses. As a result, cosmetics use increases, but is not yet
completely popularized.
Beauty salons rise in popularity, though patronage of such salons is not widely
accepted. Because many women do not wish to publicly admit they have assistance
achieving their youthful appearances, they often enter salons through the back
door.
IMPORTANT COSMETICS INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENTS IN THE UNITED STATES
From its earliest days, the United States has been at the forefront of cosmetics
innovation, entrepreneurship, and regulation. The timeline below represents a
brief history of the important developments and American usage trends, as well
as a regulatory history of cosmetics in the U.S.
GROWTH OF THE INDUSTRY
1886
David McConnell founds the California Perfume Company (CPC), then located in New
York. Over time, the company continues to grow and experiences great success,
selling five million units in North America during World War I alone. In 1928,
CPC sells its first products – toothbrush, powdered cleanser, and a vanity set –
under the name by which it is commonly known today: Avon. The Avon line of
cosmetics was introduced the next year, in 1929.
1894
The extremely competitive nature of the industry drives a group led by New York
perfumer Henry Dalley to found the Manufacturing Perfumers’ Association. The
group evolved over time and, after several name changes, is now known as the
Personal Care Products Council (PCPC).
1900
The number of U.S. firms manufacturing perfumery and toilet goods increases from
67 (in 1880) to 262. By 1900, cosmetics are in widespread use around the world,
including the United States.
1907
Eugene Schueller, a young French chemist, invents modern synthetic hair dye
which he calls “Oréal.” In 1909, Schueller names his company Societe Francaise
de Teintures Inoffensives pour Cheveux (Safe Hair Dye Company of France), which
today has become L’Oréal.
1910
American women begin to fashion their own form of mascara by applying beads of
wax to their eyelashes.
WORLD WAR I & AFTERMATH
1914
The onset of World War I leads to increased employment among American women.
This gain in disposable income, with more discretion over its use, leads to a
boom in domestic cosmetics sales.
1915
Chemist T.L. Williams creates Maybelline Mascara for his sister, Mabel, the
product’s inspiration.
1919
Congress passes the 18th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, commonly known as
Prohibition. As originally drafted, the Amendment might have outlawed perfumes
and toilet goods because of their alcoholAlcohols are a large class of important
cosmetic ingredients but only ethanol needs to be denatured to prevent it from
being redirected from cosmetic applications to alcoholic beverages. content. The
Manufacturing Perfumers’ Association (MPA), however, mobilized its forces and
persuaded Congress to clarify the language to exempt products unfit for use as
beverages.
THE ROARING 20S
1920
The flapper look comes into fashion for the first time and, with it, increased
cosmetics use: dark eyes, red lipstick, red nail polish, and the suntan, which
is first noted as a fashion statement by Coco Chanel.
Cosmetics and fragrances are manufactured and mass marketed in America for the
first time.
Max Factor, a Polish-American cosmetician and former cosmetics expert for the
Russian royal family, invents the word “makeup” and introduces Society Makeup to
the general public, enabling women to emulate the looks of their favorite movie
stars.
1920-1930
The first liquid nail polish, several forms of modern base, powdery blushes, and
the powder compact are introduced.
1922
The Manufacturing Perfumers’ Association (MPA) changes its name to the American
Manufacturers of Toilet Articles (AMTA).
1928
Max Factor, now living in Hollywood, unveils the very first lip-gloss.
1929
A pound of face powder was sold annually for every woman in the U.S. and there
were more than 1,500 face creams on the market. The concept of color harmony in
makeup was introduced simultaneously, and major cosmetics companies began
producing integrated lines of lipsticks, fingernail lacquers, and foundations.
THE GREAT DEPRESSION
1930
Due to the influence of movie stars, the Hollywood “tan” look emerges and adds
to the desire for tanned skin, first made popular by fashion designer Coco
Chanel, who accidentally got sunburnt visiting the French Riviera in 1923. When
she arrived home, her fans apparently liked the look and started to adopt darker
skin tones themselves.
1932
In the midst of the Great Depression, brothers Charles and Joseph Revson, along
with chemist Charles Lachman, found Revlon, after discovering a unique
manufacturing process for nail enamel, using pigments instead of dyes. This
innovation was ultimately responsible for Revlon’s success; it became a
multimillion dollar corporation within just six years. Revlon also borrowed the
concept of “planned obsolescence” from General Motors Corp. to introduce
seasonal color changes. Until World War II, women tended to use an entire
lipstick or bottle of nail polish before purchasing a new one.
1934
Drene, the first detergent-based shampoo, is introduced into the marketplace by
Procter & Gamble.
1935
Max Factor develops and introduces pancake makeup to meet the unique
requirements of Technicolor film. When actresses started taking it home for
personal use, he realized his new invention looked wonderful both on and off
camera and decided to introduce pancake makeup to the general retail trade.
1936
Eugene Schueller (founder of L’Oréal) invents the first sunscreen. Despite its
relative ineffectiveness, this development leads to the invention of Glacier
Cream by Austrian scientist, Franz Greiter. Introduced in 1938, this product is
cited as the first commercially viable sun protection cream. In 1962, Greiter
introduced the concept for the Sun Protection Factor rating system (SPF), which
has since become the worldwide standard for measuring the effectiveness of
sunscreen.
1938
Cosmetics were excluded from the Pure Food & Drug Act of 1906 because they were
not considered a serious public health concern. However, an incident linked to
use of an eyeliner product forced Congress to pass the Federal Food, Drug, and
Cosmetic (FD&C) Act, which greatly expanded FDA’s authority to regulate
cosmetics.
WORLD WAR II & AFTERMATH
1940
Leg makeup is developed in response to a shortage of stockings during World War
II.
The FDA is transferred from the Department of Agriculture to the Federal
Security Agency and Walter G. Campbell is appointed the first Commissioner of
Food and Drugs.
1949
Companies such as Procter & Gamble (who made products such as soap and laundry
detergents) begin to sponsor daytime television programs that will eventually be
called “soap operas,” the first of which was called These Are My Children.
THE MODERN ERA OF COSMETICS
1950
The Modern Era of the cosmetics business begins as television advertising is
first implemented in earnest.
1952
Mum, the first company to commercially market deodorant, launches the first
roll-on deodorant (under the brand name of Ban Roll-On), which is inspired by
the design of another recently invented product – the ballpoint pen.
1955
Crest, the first toothpaste with fluoride clinically proven to fight cavities,
is introduced by Procter & Gamble.
1960
Congress passes the Color Additive Amendments, in response to an outbreak of
illnesses in children caused by an orange Halloween candy, which requires
manufacturers to establish the safety of color additives in foods, drugs, and
cosmetics. The Amendments included a provision called the “Delaney Clause’” that
prohibited the use of color additives shown to be a human or animal carcinogen.
“Natural” products based on botanical ingredients, such as carrot juiceThe
liquid obtained by expressing various plants or plant parts, usually fruits. and
watermelon extractThe mixture of substances drawn out of a material by solution,
heat, or another physical or chemical process., were first
introduced. False eyelashes became popular.
1965
The first aerosol deodorant is introduced – Gillette’s Right Guard.
1966
Congress enacts the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA), which requires all
consumer products in interstate commerce to be honestly and informatively
labeled, with FDA enforcing provisions on foods, drugs, cosmetics, and medical
devices.
THE 1970S
1970
The Toilet Goods Association (TGA) changes its name to the Cosmetic, Toiletry,
and Fragrance Association (CTFA).
1971
In response to a citizen petition filed by the CTFA, the FDA Office of Colors
and Cosmetics established the Voluntary Cosmetic Reporting Program (VCRP) in
1971. The VCRP is an FDA post-market reporting system for use by manufacturers,
packers, and distributors of cosmetic products that are in commercial
distribution in the United States; it demonstrated the industry’s commitment to
cosmetic safety and furthered the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients.
1973
CTFA establishes the International Cosmetic Ingredient Nomenclature Committee
(INC) – comprised of dedicated scientists from industry, academia, regulatory
authorities and sister trade associations – to develop and assign uniform names
for cosmetic ingredients. “INCI” names are uniform, systematic names
internationally recognized to identify cosmetics ingredients that are published
biennially in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook.
The environmental movement brings challenges to the cosmetics and fragrance
industry. The use of some popular ingredients, including musk and ambergris, is
banned following the enactment of endangered species protection legislation.
1976
CTFA, with the support of the FDA and the Consumer Federation of America,
establishes the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The goal of the
CIR is to bring together worldwide published and unpublished data on the safety
of cosmetics ingredients, and for an independent expert panel to subsequently
review that data. The seven-member panel consists of scientists and physicians
from the fields of dermatology, pharmacology, chemistry, and
toxicologyToxicology is the study of the adverse effects of chemical and
physical agents on living organisms. selected by a steering committee and
publicly nominated by government agencies, industry, and consumers. The panel
thoroughly reviews and assesses the safety of ingredients and ultimately
publishes the final results in the peer-reviewed International Journal of
Toxicology. Today, CIR has reviewed thousands of the most commonly used
cosmetics ingredients.
THE 1980S
1980
The 80’s saw a dramatic change from previous decades where women typically wore
makeup that was natural and light. Instead, the new order of the day was to
experiment with heavy layers of bold, bright colors. Gone was the golden glow of
the 70’s, replaced by foundation that was one or two shades lighter than women’s
natural skin tone. Smokey eyes in bright colors such as fuchsia, electric blue,
orange, and green were hugely popular. The 80’s was all about taking your look
to the extreme, championed by superstars such as Madonna and Cyndi Lauper.
Concerns about contaminated makeup emerged late in the decade. An FDA report in
1989 found that more than five percent of cosmetics samples collected from
department store counters were contaminated with mold, fungi, and pathogenic
organisms.
1981
PCPC donates $1 million to fund a national center for the development of
alternatives to animal testing – the Johns Hopkins School Center for
Alternatives to Animal Testing (CAAT). Its mission is to promote and support
research in animal testing alternatives. To date, CAAT has funded to
approximately 300 grants totaling more than $6 million.
1989
Look Good Feel Better is founded by the Look Good Feel Better Foundation
(formerly the Personal Care Products Council Foundation) – a charitable
organization established by CTFA to help hundreds of thousands of women with
cancer by improving their self-esteem and confidence through lessons on skin and
nail care, cosmetics, and accessories to address the appearance-related side
effects of treatment.
THE 1990S
1990
Animal testing for cosmetics continues to be a hot topic in the beauty industry,
driven by consumer preferences. In June 1989, Avon became the first major
cosmetics company in the world to announce a permanent end to animal testing of
its products, including testing done in outside laboratories. Other companies
subsequently follow suit throughout the next decade and efforts intensify to
develop and gain governmental approvals for alternative methods to substantiate
product safety.
1999
The first ever Cosmetics Harmonization and International Cooperation (CHIC)
meeting is held in Brussels, Belgium. At the conference, representatives from
the U.S. FDA; the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour, and Welfare (MHLW);
Health Canada; and Directorate General III of the European Union discuss broad
cosmetics topics, including: basic safety substantiation, exchange of data and
information, development of an international alert system, and an international
memorandum of cooperation.
THE 2000S
2000
Consumers in the early 2000s are pressed for time. As the pace of work and home
life became more stressful and hectic, cosmetics and personal care products that
emphasized relaxation, but which could still be used quickly, constituted a
strong category within the industry. Among these products are aromatherapy
scented body washes, as well as other liquid and gel soaps, which start to
replace traditional bar soaps.
The industry experiences increased challenges including product safety concerns,
calls for scientific data to document product claims, increasing environmental
concerns, and pressure from the growing animal rights movement. Congress began
investigating possible revisions to the traditional “drug” and “cosmetic”
definitions established under the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act.
2004
The European Union (EU) implements an animal testing ban on finished cosmetics
products.
2006
The CTFA develops the Consumer Commitment Code, which highlights the voluntary,
proactive, and responsible approach to product safety supported by cosmetics
companies. The Code is intended to enhance confidence and transparency for
consumers and government regulators.
2007
The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) changes its name to the
Personal Care Products Council (PCPC). PCPC supports numerous legislative
initiatives in the states of California, Massachusetts and New York, and
launches Cosmeticsinfo.org to assist consumers in understanding the products
they use as well as the industry’s record of safety in the formulation of those
products.
The International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation (ICCREstablished in 2007,
the International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation (ICCR) is a voluntary
international group of cosmetics regulatory authorities from Brazil, Canada, the
European Union, Japan and the United States. This group of regulatory
authorities meet on an annual basis to discuss common issues on cosmetics safety
and regulation, as well as enter into a constructive dialogue with relevant
cosmetics industry trade associations. ICCR provides a multilateral framework to
maintain and enable the highest level of global consumer protection by working
towards and promoting regulatory convergence, while minimizing barriers to
international trade.) is established, comprised of a voluntary, international
group of cosmetics regulatory authorities from Brazil, Canada, the European
Union, Japan, and the United States. This group of regulatory authorities meets
on an annual basis to discuss common issues on cosmetics safety and regulation.
2009
The European Commission (EC) issues regulation governing product claims,
protecting consumers from misleading claims concerning efficacy and other
characteristics of cosmetic products.
2010
PCPC commissions a study to help quantify the important contributions the
cosmetics industry makes to the economy and society. The findings illustrate the
deep commitment of personal care leaders to promote and advance environmental,
social, and economic benefits to its consumers.
2012
PCPC begins working with FDA and Congressional staff on a multi-year process to
develop a framework for cosmetics reform legislation that would strengthen FDA
oversight and provide for national uniformity and preemption of disparate state
cosmetic regulations.
2015
Due to rising concerns about the potential environmental impacts, the cosmetics
industry supports the enactment of the Microbead-Free Waters Act, which
prohibits the manufacture and sale of rinse-off cosmetics (including toothpaste)
that contain intentionally-added plasticSynthetic water insoluble polymers that
are repeatedly molded, extruded or physically manipulated into various, solid
forms which retain their defined shapes in their intended applications during
their use and disposal. microbeads.
2016
PCPC successfully petitions FDA to issue draft guidance for lead impurities in
lip products and externally applied cosmetics, providing critical regulatory
certainty consistent with international policies.
PCPC issues an updated Economic and Social Contributions Report, documenting the
vital role the industry plays in every state.
2017
CIR completes the scientific safety assessments of 5,278 ingredients since the
program began. Findings continue to be published in International Journal of
Toxicology.
Recognizing that sunscreens are considered “drugs” and therefore banned in
schools, PCPC successfully spearheads a coalition of more than 30 stakeholders
in support of state legislation that allows students to have and apply sunscreen
at school.
2018
Faced with legislation in California to ban animal testing that would have
prevented U.S. companies from access to certain international markets, PCPC
builds an integrated, multi-faceted strategy to successfully modify and enact
the California Cruelty-Free Cosmetics Act.
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