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 * 1981: KATAHDIN IN WINTER
   
   Features
   
   
   As we moved higher, the fog thickened. Nancy Rich, Helen and I began putting
   in wands on the off chance we’d be descending this route. As the trail gained
   the summit plateau, called the Tableland, flat and featureless, the grade
   eased off and the route was marked by cairns.
   
   
   Read Now ›





 * SHARP END: SHINY THINGS
   
   Features
   
   
   In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 84—which is now available on newsstands
   and in our online store—Derek Franz weighs the pros and cons of the Piolets
   d’Or. “The propriety of Piolets’ “Golden Ice Axe” awards in the realm of
   alpinism has been debated ever since the first ceremony in 1992,” he writes.
   “If the Piolets d’Or fail to live up to their aspirational status as a
   touchstone for alpinism’s greatest ideals, they at least provide us with a
   weather vane for the culture.”
   
   


 * NEW ROUTE ON MT. DICKEY, ALASKA: AIM FOR THE BUSHES
   
   NewsWire
   
   
   Over a three-day push from March 31 to April 2, Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
   and Alan Rousseau climbed a new route on the east face of Mt. Dickey in
   Alaska’s Ruth Gorge. They named their line Aim For the Bushes (AI6 M6 X,
   5,250′). Rousseau narrates their adventure.
   
   





Current Issue


ALPINIST 84 | WINTER 2023

Cover: Patrick Lalonde peers through the narrow exit moves of Tut’s Thumb (WI4+)
in the Katahdin massif’s North Basin, Baxter State Park, Maine. [Photo] Brent
Doscher

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NEWSWIRE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------




 * TWO PROPOSALS THREATEN AMERICA’S ROCK CLIMBING
   
   Derek Franz
   
   |
   
   January 12, 2024
   
   
   Policy proposals are now being considered by the National Park Service (NPS)
   and US Forest Service (USFS) that threaten to fundamentally change the way
   rock climbing is managed. A comment period for these proposals has recently
   been extended to January 30. It is important that climbers make our presence
   known and kindly share our perspectives to help non-climbing land managers
   better understand what we do and how we do it, especially when it comes to
   climbing in wilderness areas.
   
   
   Read Now ›



More NEWSWIRES


 * REMEMBERING ED WEBSTER: 1956-2022
   
   One of climbing’s great Renaissance men, Ed Webster, 66, died of natural
   causes at his Maine home on November 22. Friend and climbing historian Jeff
   Achey described Webster as “one of the most important rock climbers of his
   era, on par, in his unique way, with John Bachar, Henry Barber and Jimmy
   Dunn.” Webster blazed new routes from Cathedral Ledge to Colorado, to the
   Utah desert and, with three friends in 1988, to Chomolungma’s Kangshung Face.
   A route that Reinhold Messner endorsed as “the best ascent of Everest in
   terms and style of pure adventure.” Beyond the climbs, Webster was…
   
   


 * ALPINIST HIRES ABBEY COLLINS AS ASSISTANT EDITOR
   
   Alpinist is delighted to welcome Abbey Collins to its team as an assistant
   editor. She returns to the East Coast from Alaska to work from the magazine’s
   headquarters in Jeffersonville, Vermont. “Abbey brings a broad skillset to
   us, from radio to print journalism, and I’m excited about the possibilities
   she brings to Alpinist, and what this means for the Alpinist Podcast as well
   as the magazine,” says Editor-in-Chief Derek Franz. “She has reported on
   difficult stories in her previous jobs, is connected to the Alaskan
   mountaineering scene, and she is clearly the type of person who embraces
   challenges with enthusiasm.…
   
   


 * DEREK FRANZ BEGINS NEW ROLE AS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF ALPINIST
   
   Alpinist has named Derek Franz as the new editor-in-chief. Franz began
   freelancing for the magazine in 2011 and joined the Alpinist staff as digital
   editor in September 2016. “I’m truly humbled and honored to start this new
   chapter for the magazine,” Franz says. “As the new editor-in-chief I will do
   my best to uphold the tradition of excellence that has been ingrained with
   the brand since Alpinist 0 was published in 2002.”
   
   



The ALPINIST Podcast

The Alpinist podcast extends our conversations with climbers and community
members into a new medium: from fresh interviews to untold stories, and from
humorous adventure tales to in-depth discussions of significant issues in the
climbing world today.

Listen Now


Episode 62 | The Alpinist Podcast


GRAHAM ZIMMERMAN’S BALANCING ACT

In this episode, Graham Zimmerman speaks to the need for systemic change when it
comes to climate and social issues, and how climbers see those challenges
through a unique lens. He reflects on his love for the mountains, and the sense
of release and joy they provide him with.

Listen Now ›

Episode 61 | The Alpinist Podcast


LEN NECEFER

In this episode, Len Necefer reflects on why having a sense of humor is
essential when trying to communicate about heavy subjects like climate change;
what it was like teaching himself to ski; and why it’s important for all of us
to vote.

Listen Now ›





MOUNTAIN STANDARDS GEAR REVIEWS

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------




 * PATAGONIA WOMEN’S DUAL ASPECT JACKET AND BIBS: STAY DRY IN THE MOUNTAINS
   WITHOUT SACRIFICING COMFORT OR FUNCTION
   
   If you want to fantasize about snow in the middle of summer, check out Miya
   Tsudome’s review of the Patagonia Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs. She reports
   that the company’s proprietary H2No performance standard for waterproofing is
   lightweight and passed “the hose test,” but it does give up some durability
   compared to Gore-Tex. Added pluses…
   
   
   Read Review ›

More Reviews


 * BIOLITE ALPENGLOW LANTERNS: FUNCTIONAL MOOD LIGHTING FOR YOUR TENT, CAR OR
   CAMPSITE
   
   


 * EDELRID NEO 3R: A QUALITY ROPE MADE WITH RECYCLED PRE-CONSUMER MATERIALS
   
   


 * BLACK DIAMOND CRACK GLOVES HAVE IT COVERED FROM HAND CRACKS TO OFFWIDTH SIZES
   
   




FEATURES

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------




 * 1973: THE CILLEY-BARBER ROUTE
   
   Henry Barber
   
   |
   
   January 11, 2024
   
   
   Whiteout spindrift avalanches, the cold temperature and bulletproof ice all
   made the climbing slow and progress doubtful as I skirted around the right
   side of some horizontal ice roofs. I prayed Dave wouldn’t fall following this
   pitch: my gear was in questionable, shattered ice, and I was belaying above
   the crux from my seventy-centimeter wooden-shafted…
   
   
   Read Now ›



 * TOOL USER: STICKY-RUBBER KNEEPADS
   
   In this Tool User story from Alpinist 83—which is available in our online
   store—Matt Samet traces the development of sticky-rubber kneepads.
   
   
   Read Now ›

 * CLIMBING IN WILDERNESS
   
   In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 83–which is now available on newsstands
   and in our online store–Derek Franz examines the legal landscape and
   uncertain future for bolts and other fixed anchors that have been used for
   climbing in designated wilderness areas for nearly sixty years. Legislation
   such as Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act and…
   
   
   Read Now ›

 * POWER ON THE PEAKS
   
   In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 81–which is available in our online
   store–Shehla Anjum shares stories from some of the Pakistani women finding
   their power amid the country’s high peaks.
   
   
   Read Now ›

 * CONTEMPLATING THE NEXT IMPOSSIBLE
   
   In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 82–which is now on newsstands and in
   our online store–Derek Franz considers some of the hardest objectives for
   today’s alpinists. He writes: “When it comes to the physical limits of the
   human body, we are constantly wondering what is possible: What is the fastest
   a human can run,…
   
   
   Read Now ›








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© 2024 Alpinist

HEIGHT OF LAND PUBLICATIONS
Alpinist • Backcountry • Cross Country Skier • Mountain Flyer



Alpinist

Current Issue
Subscribe
Podcast
About
Submission Guidelines
Contact Us
Privacy Policy
User Agreement

Shop

Back Issues
Gift Subscriptions
Apparel
Accessories
Books

Connect

 * Instagram
 * Facebook
 * Twitter
 * Spotify

Address

60 Main Street
P.O. Box 190
Jeffersonville, VT 05464

Tel: 802-644-6606
contact@alpinist.com



© 2024 Alpinist

HEIGHT OF LAND PUBLICATIONS
Alpinist • Backcountry • Cross Country Skier • Mountain Flyer