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Food & Drink


BEERLADY BEERS


By Dave Infante Published On 06/30/2019
@dinfontay
By Dave Infante @dinfontay Published On 06/30/2019
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Flickr/LongitudeLatitude
 

According to most brew-enthusiasts, we're currently drinking our way through the
golden age of American beer. The rise of micro-brewing in the Nineties & Aughts
brought on higher-quality ingredients & colossal variety, while the rise of the
Internet made it possible for anyone, anywhere, to indulge in (and argue about)
every pioneering pint this nation produced.



But in this great future, we can't forget our past, so I asked a baby boomer &
former beer man to tell me about the near-forgotten dark ages of American beer
-- before craft beer, green-bottle imports, or even nationally distributed light
lagers.


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Mary Beth Infante
 


Full disclosure: That was a Bob Marley quote.



Fuller disclosure!: The expert is my father, Nick Infante. He grew up drinking
Rheingold & Ballantine in a Connecticut factory town, then went on to work in
marketing for St. Pauli Girl, Labatt, Rolling Rock, and many more.


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Jennifer Bui



AMERICA'S BACK-IN-THE-DAY BEER LANDSCAPE

As my father tells it, the US beer industry was basically a fiefdom for those
intervening decades between Prohibition's blessed repeal and the industrial
improvements in bottling, shipping, and mass-batch brewing that arrived
post-WWII. Provincial breweries dominated their respective regions, but rarely
expanded beyond the invisible boundaries of cost-effective distribution.



By the Seventies, he says, these insular realms were entrenched in crippling
competition with Big Beer, and when the Nineties dawned, there were only a
handful of indie brewers still successfully defending their local shelf-space
from the constant threat of homogenous, homogenized brew.



What follows is a primer on 23 American beers of yesteryear: formerly glorious
brews that are either dead & gone, drastically enfeebled or -- in a few
improbable cases -- still thriving today. These brave brands fought the good
fight, in their failures paving the way for an entire second act in local
American beer-brewing. Cheers to that.


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Flickr/Jack Newton


NARRAGANSETT
Founded: 1890, Rhode Island
Home territory: New England
Claim to fame: As the largest brewery in New England, 'Gansett won hearts &
minds by sponsoring the Red Sox for decades. It was a Boston sportscaster who
immortalized the beer's slogan on-air -- "Hi neighbor! Have a 'Gansett!"
Present-day status: After changing hands twice (once to St. Louis' Falstaff,
then to private investors), the label mounted a comeback in the Aughts with a
focused offering that's contract-brewed by Genesee in upstate New York. They
even do special editions.


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Wikipedia/Otto Yamamoto

RHEINGOLD
Founded: 1883, NYC
Home territory: NY, NJ, PA, CT
Claim to fame: In 1962, the German-American brand became the official beer of
the then-new New York Mets. Its Miss Rheingold contest blazed the trail on
disguising crowd-sourced sexy photos as "marketing".
Present-day status: Sold into irrelevance, then nostalgically dredged back to
the surface by my father's former boss, R is available -- albeit sparsely --
throughout the Tri-State area these days.

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Flickr/Keijo Knutas

BALLANTINE
Founded: 1840, Newark
Home territory: NJ, NY, CT, PA, MD, DE
Claim to fame: The brand's "three-ring" logo was synonymous with the New York
Yankees for decades thanks to a longstanding partnership. Mel Allen -- the Bronx
Bombers' legendary call-man -- was a key endorser.
Present-day status: Now owned by PBR, Ballantine makes a single brew, which is
sold throughout the Northeast & Midwest in 40oz bottles instead of the
traditional longnecks.

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Flickr/walknboston

SCHAEFER
Founded: 1842, NYC
Home territory: Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest
Claim to fame: Popularly credited with introducing American drinkers to
Germany's lager-style beer, Schaefer held the crown as the country's largest
brewery until giving up the ghost to Anheuser in the Seventies.
Present-day status: Also owned by PBR, Midwestern fans can still slug "the one
beer to have when you're having more than one". Sadly, the rest of us are out of
luck.


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Flickr/Dave Hosford
 


NATIONAL BOHEMIAN
Founded: 1885, Baltimore
Home territory: Mid-Atlantic, NJ, PA
Claim to fame: Mr. Boh, the beer's monocled Monopoly Man-esque mascot, is a
mythic Baltimore figure on the magnitude of Omar Little himself. Natty Boh has
backed the Orioles since 1965 and is considered the official beer of Maryland.
Present-day status: Mr. Boh keeps his cycloptic watch over "The Land Of Pleasant
Living" from a tower in the original brewery complex. You can drink the stuff in
Maryland, DC, and parts of Virginia.


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Flickr/Infrogmation of New Orleans
 


DIXIE
Founded: 1907, New Orleans
Home territory: LA, AL, MS, Florida Panhandle
Claim to fame: Until Hurricane Katrina broke the levees in 2005, Dixie's Tulane
Avenue facility held the title of NOLA's oldest brewery. Sadly, the storm
knocked out the water supply long enough that local operations had to be shut
down.
Present-day status: The brand was forced to contract-brew elsewhere following
the disaster, but it's still very much available in the Southeast, and there are
rumors that Dixie is plotting a glorious return to its old, still-standing
brewery.


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Flickr/Infrogmation of New Orleans

JAX
Founded: 1913, Jacksonville, FL
Home territory: FL, GA, MS, AL, LA
Claim to fame: The brand that allegedly invented the six-pack didn't last long,
but its hand-painted signs & vintage paraphernalia still fetch good money at
auction.
Present-day status: Bought by New Orleans' unaffiliated Jackson Brewery after
WWII, Jax died when that outfit went bust in the Seventies.



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Flickr/Paul Sableman
 


FALSTAFF
Founded: 1838, St. Louis (as the Lemp Brewery)
Home territory: Midwest, Southeast, TX
Claim to fame: Before the Lou was Anheuser-Busch's backyard, this label was a
powerhouse, using the city's natural caverns to lager its beers. Legendary
sportscaster Harry Caray was a fan, and would plug Falstaff on-air. Fun literary
fact: it's named for Shakespeare's character in Henry IV!
Present-day status: Corporate maneuvers hit the big F hard, and, after bouncing
from one holdings company to the other, the label was laid to rest by Pabst in
2005.


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Flickr/daveynin
 

IRON CITY
Founded: 1861, Pittsburgh
Home territory: Western PA, Western NY, OH
Claim to fame: Though it pioneered aluminum bottles, resealable caps, and a
whole host of other now-standard beer-packaging options, IC will always be
remembered for one in particular: its Super Steelers commemorative cans, which
marked one of the first (and, it'd turn out, last) times an active pro sports
franchise would grace alcohol products.
Present-day status: The Eighties weren't kind to IC, which slipped into
bankruptcy after vicious union disputes. Purchased by an investment group in
2007, the label has resumed brisk business in the 'Burgh & its surroundings.

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Flickr/Roger Wollstadt
 

STROH'S
Founded: 1850, Detroit
Home territory: Midwest, Northeast
Claim to fame: A behemoth in its day, the label took on acquisition (it picked
up Schaefer's old breweries & Schlitz outright), international expansion (it was
the first foreign beer brand in India), and corporate structure (it hired execs
from other industries before that was "a thing").
Present-day status: The once-proud empire lives on in booze products like Colt
45 and Mickey's Malt Liquor, which are owned & operated by -- you guessed it --
Pabst. The eponymous brew is still distributed in Michigan, especially up North
and in the UP.


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Flickr/Kevin Dooley


SCHLITZ
Founded: 1849, Milwaukee
Home territory: WI, IL, MI, OH, NC
Claim to fame: After the Great Chicago Fire in 1871, Joseph Schlitz sent
hundreds of kegs to the city (because, as everyone knows, only beer can reverse
smoke damage). At the turn of last century, the brand was the country's largest;
in 1970, it was the world's largest. Innovations like its light-blocking brown
bottle, pop-top cans, and "tallboys" established precedents that beer makers
follow to this day.
Present-day status: Now owned by PBR (seeing a pattern here?), the once-proud
brew is still sold in parts of the Midwest. Its bullish malt liquor, however, is
distributed more widely.


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Flickr/Ed Schipul

SCHMIDT
Founded: 1855, St. Paul
Home territory: Midwest
Claim to fame: As the "official beer of the American sportsman", it's no
surprise the brewery's crowning achievement came in service of its country.
During WWII, the family owners locked in a federal contract with the Army to
provide beer for overseas G.I.'s.
Present-day status:  Still alive in its original stomping grounds, Schmidt is
begrudgingly beloved for its yeomanly taste & price.

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Hamm's

HAMM'S
Founded: 1865, St. Paul
Home territory: Midwest, TX, CA
Claim to fame: The Hamm's Bear, the label's cartoon ursine mascot, was so damn
loveable, it won advertising awards nationwide before getting benched so as to
avoid the fate of Joe Camel. On the West Coast, Hamm's San Francisco outpost was
famously seen used for establishing shots in Dirty Harry.
Present-day status: Owned by MillerCoors, Hamm's is still available in select
markets.


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Flickr/Chris Yunker

GRAIN BELT
Founded: 1890, Minneapolis
Home territory: MN, MI, WI, IA, IL, Eastern Dakotas
Claim to fame: Before the Twin Cities finally decided to tolerate each other,
the brewery (which was actually an amalgamation of four subsidiaries across the
Midwest) was in a dogfight with St. Paul neighbors Hamm's & Schmidt.
Present-day status: Moved to La Crosse by a Wisconsin parent company that also
owned Schmidt, GB stumbled through the late '90s & Aughts. Now it's on the
come-up thanks to its current owner: one-time Minnesota rival brewer Schell's.

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Flickr/Larry Hoffman

OLD STYLE
Founded: 1902, La Crosse, WI
Home territory: Chicago! (Plus most of the Midwest)
Claim to fame: Technically a Sconnie brew, Heileman's popular lager started
making serious money when a bottlers' strike opened up an entre to the Windy
City's beer-thirsty multitudes. The label has sponsored the Cubs since 1950.
Present-day status: Owned by Pabst, Old Style is alive & well to this very day.
Next time you're in Chi-Town, grab one.


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Flickr/TVZ Design


LONE STAR
Founded: 1884, San Antonio
Home territory: TX, OK, NE, LA
Claim to fame: Well, first of all, it's the "National Beer of Texas", which is
nice. But Lone Star also lays claim to the state's first mechanized brewery,
plus bragging rights as one of the brands to which Adolphus Busch (yes, that
Busch) lent his magic touch.
Present-day status: Purchased by Pabst -- do these guys own everything?! -- Lone
Star is still contract-brewed in Texas today.


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Flickr/Nan Palmero

PEARL
Founded: 1883, San Antonio
Home territory: TX
Claim to fame: Technically, Pearl was a bigger producer than even Lone Star in
their home state, and the company strolled through Prohibition and both World
Wars relatively unscathed. At one point, it purchased a candy company, just
'cause.
Present-day status: Owned & operated by Pabst, you can still find the light,
refreshing beer on shelves throughout Texas, as well as some nearby states.

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Flickr/Jinx!

SHINER BOCK
Founded: 1909, Shiner, TX
Home territory: Texas, Southeast, Southern portions of the Midwest
Claim to fame: The brand's cultishly popular Bock has turned up in episodes of
The X-Files, and Texas transplants have successfully demanded its distribution
as far away as New York & Connecticut.
Present-day status: Shiner is alive & well to this very day, but more
impressively -- they're still independent. Well done, cowboys.


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Flickr/Shayan (USA)


OLYMPIA
Founded: 1896, Tumwater, WA
Home territory: Pacific-Northwest
Claim to fame: Oly was a player in its heyday, buying up both Hamm's & Lone Star
(for a time) with a war chest fortified via a loyal (and thirsty) Wash State
market. But forget business: The brand endorsed Evel Knievel. Seriously. So yeah
-- hows that for fame?
Present-day status: The label fought hard through the Seventies before selling
to Pabst in 1983. The brewery has been shuttered since 2003.


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Flickr/leiris202

RAINIER
Founded: 1883, Seattle
Home territory: Pacific-Northwest
Claim to fame: 11 years before Washington became a state, this plucky brand had
already entered its second decade (its ancestral Washington Brewery was founded
in 1854). Urban legend has it that the brewery's owner bribed a government
official to rename Mt. Tacoma "Mt. Rainier".
Present-day status: Rainier was sold in 1916 when Washington banned booze; then
sold again; then sold again. Eventually, it landed in Heileman's hands, who then
sold it again. To Pabst. Nevertheless, it remains an Evergreen State mainstay to
this day.

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Flickr/Michael Dorausch

BROWN DERBY
Founded: 1973, Eureka, CA
Home territory: CA
Claim to fame: Unlike many of its elders, Derby never went through Prohibition,
so it hit markets with a vengeance once that horrid law was repealed. It was
also a "store brand" owned by Safeway -- an early predecessor to Whole Foods' &
Trader Joe's own direct-sale efforts decades later.
Present-day status: Safeway sold most of its locations in 1988, and somewhere in
the ensuing shuffle, Brown Derby was discontinued.


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Flickr/Giles Clark

ACME
Founded: 1907, San Francisco
Home territory: CA
Claim to fame: Initially, the A was just an extension of Oly's Washington brand,
but when an earthquake took out much of Frisco's existing breweries in 1906, the
company captured the market with a whole separate brand. Legendary boxer Jack
Dempsey was the spokesman for an offshoot label (Bulldog).
Present-day status: The brand changed names & owners several times, but lives on
today as part of North Coast Brewing.

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Flickr/iwona_kellie

LUCKY
Founded: 1934, San Francisco
Home territory: CA, ID, NV, UT, MT, and of course, Vancouver Island
Claim to fame: The lager didn't make as many appearances in pop culture as many
of its competitors, but Jack Nicholson could be seen crushing Luckys in many
scenes of Five Easy Pieces. And about that Vancouver thing: the brew has a
strong following in the city owing to Lucky's onetime brewery there.
Present-day status: The X can be found sporadically throughout California, the
Pacific-Northwest,  and Western Canada.



Dave Infante is a senior writer for Thrillist food & drink. He can sing the
Schaefer jingle with troubling accuracy. Follow him on Twitter at @dinfontay.

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   Content presented to you on this service can be based on limited data, such
   as the website or app you are using, your non-precise location, your device
   type, or which content you are (or have been) interacting with (for example,
   to limit the number of times a video or an article is presented to you).
   
   View Illustrations 

List of IAB Vendors‎

USE PRECISE GEOLOCATION DATA 213 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Use precise geolocation data

With your acceptance, your precise location (within a radius of less than 500
metres) may be used in support of the purposes explained in this notice.

List of IAB Vendors‎

ACTIVELY SCAN DEVICE CHARACTERISTICS FOR IDENTIFICATION 93 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS
PURPOSE

Actively scan device characteristics for identification

With your acceptance, certain characteristics specific to your device might be
requested and used to distinguish it from other devices (such as the installed
fonts or plugins, the resolution of your screen) in support of the purposes
explained in this notice.

List of IAB Vendors‎

ENSURE SECURITY, PREVENT AND DETECT FRAUD, AND FIX ERRORS 404 PARTNERS CAN USE
THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

Your data can be used to monitor for and prevent unusual and possibly fraudulent
activity (for example, regarding advertising, ad clicks by bots), and ensure
systems and processes work properly and securely. It can also be used to correct
any problems you, the publisher or the advertiser may encounter in the delivery
of content and ads and in your interaction with them.

List of IAB Vendors‎ | View Illustrations 

DELIVER AND PRESENT ADVERTISING AND CONTENT 389 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

Certain information (like an IP address or device capabilities) is used to
ensure the technical compatibility of the content or advertising, and to
facilitate the transmission of the content or ad to your device.

List of IAB Vendors‎ | View Illustrations 

MATCH AND COMBINE DATA FROM OTHER DATA SOURCES 288 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

Information about your activity on this service may be matched and combined with
other information relating to you and originating from various sources (for
instance your activity on a separate online service, your use of a loyalty card
in-store, or your answers to a survey), in support of the purposes explained in
this notice.

List of IAB Vendors‎

LINK DIFFERENT DEVICES 267 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

In support of the purposes explained in this notice, your device might be
considered as likely linked to other devices that belong to you or your
household (for instance because you are logged in to the same service on both
your phone and your computer, or because you may use the same Internet
connection on both devices).

List of IAB Vendors‎

IDENTIFY DEVICES BASED ON INFORMATION TRANSMITTED AUTOMATICALLY 375 PARTNERS CAN
USE THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

Your device might be distinguished from other devices based on information it
automatically sends when accessing the Internet (for instance, the IP address of
your Internet connection or the type of browser you are using) in support of the
purposes exposed in this notice.

List of IAB Vendors‎
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