www.postandcourier.com Open in urlscan Pro
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Submitted URL:
http://eveningpostpublishingnewspapercompany.cmail7.com/t/j-l-sihuikl-dtfljlukh-t/
Effective URL:
https://www.postandcourier.com/food/restaurant-review-momo-satisfies-with-hearty-plates-at-the-edge-of-riverfront-park/article_...
Submission: On March 15 via api (March 15th 2024, 9:39:02 pm UTC) from US — Scanned from US

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Ceviche is served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec. 23,
2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Deviled eggs are served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec.
23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Patrons sit at the bar area at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on
Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Smoked chicken thighs are served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston
on Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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top story editor's pick


RESTAURANT REVIEW: MOMO SATISFIES WITH HEARTY PLATES AT THE EDGE OF RIVERFRONT
PARK

 * By Robert F. Moss Special to The Post and Courier
 * Jan 3, 2023
 * Jan 3, 2023
 * 

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Ceviche is served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec. 23,
2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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NORTH CHARLESTON — Back in 2017, North Charleston Mayor Keith Summey told The
Post & Courier he was thrilled the city was undertaking a $1.1 million
renovation of the old Quarters L building at the edge of Riverfront Park. “Right
now there’s really not even a place (visitors) can get a Coca-Cola or a hot
dog,” he said at the time, adding that he hoped the two-story structure might
one day house a restaurant.

Some four years later, Summey repeated the sentiment as he announced the city
had secured a much-needed tenant for the newly-remodeled building. “Even if
you’re walking through the park,” Summey observed, “there’s no place to get a
Coke.”


Food


RIVERFRONT PARK FESTIVALS OPEN NEW DOORS FOR LOCALLY OWNED NORTH CHARLESTON
RESTAURANT

 * By Parker Milner pmilner@postandcourier.com




But that was about to change, for chef Justin Moore had agreed to move his
restaurant MOMO from Goose Creek into the former Navy officers’ quarters. These
days, park visitors can not only get a cold soda but also a local beer, a glass
of wine or one of a dozen craft cocktails. They can order a hot dog, too —
technically, a house-smoked sausage dog ($11) topped with avocado, pico de gallo
and feta cheese in a soft top-sliced roll.



MOMO RIVERFRONT PARK

CUISINE: Modern American 

REPRESENTATIVE DISH: Ceviche

ADDRESS: 1049 Everglades Ave., North Charleston 

PHONE: 843-724-9940

BAR: Full bar 

WEB: momocharleston.com 

DINING ROOM HOURS: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Friday-Saturday; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday 

PRICE: $$

COSTS: $8-$24

PARKING: Parking lot inside Riverfront Park grounds 



No, MOMO Riverfront Park is not your typical park concession. It’s a
full-service modern American restaurant, with all the requisite modern features.
There are “handhelds,” for instance, including that smoked sausage dog along
with a pair of burgers and four sandwiches.




With two thick slices of buttery brioche, the bread-to-beef ratio is a tad too
high on the patty melt ($14), though the gush of melted Swiss oozing between two
thin-smashed patties is quite nice. The brioche works better when enclosing
slices of kettle-cooked turkey breast ($12) along with cheddar and Romaine. In
an echo of the cranberry sauce on a post-Thanksgiving sandwich, a slather of
purple apple berry jam adds a sweet, fruity finish — a filling and comforting
combo.




For me, the most interesting things at MOMO are found on the left side of the
menu, where a small raw bar selection — oysters on the half-shell, ceviche,
chilled shrimp — joins an assortment of small plate “firsts.”

A quintet of deviled eggs ($8) are piped full of pale yellow filling fortified
with white cheddar pimento cheese. Those same deviled eggs, blended smooth,
serve as the sauce on a pair of oyster sliders ($11). Against that creamy base
and the soft slider rolls, the fried oysters’ crunchy cornmeal batter really
pops.

Food


RESTAURANT REVIEW: BAR GEORGE'S LOW-KEY BAR FARE TWISTS ARE FILLED WITH HIGH
NOTES

 * By Robert F. Moss Special to The Post and Courier



The ceviche ($16) is quite good, too, with slices of pickled cucumber and red
onions adding crisp accents to the firm white fish and the bright citrus of its
leche de tigre marinade. House-fried tortilla chips are piled right on top, and
once you offload them to side plates (which you really should, lest the liquid
reduce the bottom of the pile into cornmeal mush) you realize there’s an awful
lot of ceviche in that bowl.


Buy Now

Deviled eggs are served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec.
23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

There’s plenty of heft to the baseball-sized scoop of smoked whitefish pâté
($11), too. With a soft base of lemon-accented mascarpone, it’s more creamy dip
than traditional pâté. A dozen Ritz crackers are served alongside for dipping,
and while colorful furikake seasoning dusts the cool white scoop, the smoky
flavor of the fish is what really shines through.



Your dining companions may well pause midway through the firsts and debate
whether to keep nibbling away or save room for the upcoming main course. That’s
a good moment to take a look around and note the unique setting.



Close
Buy Now

Oysters served with cocktail sauce and mignonette are served at MOMO at
Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Patrons sit at the bar area at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on
Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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An espresso martini is served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on
Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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MOMO is located at 1049 Everglades Ave. in North Charleston. Parker Milner/The
Post and Courier 

 

 

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A Jalapeño MOMOrita is served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on
Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Buy Now

MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston has two levels of dining space,
pictured Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Buy Now

Steak frites with chimichurri features fries with a béarnaise dipping sauce,
served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec. 23, 2022. Grace
Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Smoked chicken thighs are served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston
on Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Deviled eggs are served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec.
23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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Buy Now

Ceviche is served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec. 23,
2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

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PHOTOS: RIVERFRONT PARK HOME TO MOMO

MOMO offers waterfront dining at Riverfront Park housed on North Charleston’s
old Navy base in the Quarters L building, which once housed Navy officers.

Buy Now

Oysters served with cocktail sauce and mignonette are served at MOMO at
Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Buy Now

Patrons sit at the bar area at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on
Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Buy Now

An espresso martini is served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on
Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

MOMO is located at 1049 Everglades Ave. in North Charleston. Parker Milner/The
Post and Courier 

 

 

Buy Now

A Jalapeño MOMOrita is served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on
Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Buy Now

MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston has two levels of dining space,
pictured Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Buy Now

Steak frites with chimichurri features fries with a béarnaise dipping sauce,
served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec. 23, 2022. Grace
Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Buy Now

Smoked chicken thighs are served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston
on Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Buy Now

Deviled eggs are served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec.
23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Buy Now

Ceviche is served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on Dec. 23,
2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

 * Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Built in 1937, Quarters L was one of four “Panama Houses” that served as
residences for Navy officers and their families. (So-called because their design
was based on Army Quartermaster plans created for the Panama Canal Zone.) It’s a
striking building, square in shape and two stories tall, with white-painted
German siding beneath a low-pitched hipped roof.




The second floor has an distinctive T-shaped living area, with a long, narrow
room stretching the full length of the rear wall and tall casement windows
overlooking the Cooper River. The stem of the 'T' is a wide hallway extending
into the interior of the building with doors opening into what originally were
bedrooms.

That 'T' is now MOMO’s upstairs dining room, and if you snag a stool at the long
counter along the windows you can look out through a live oak canopy at the
greenish-gray river beyond.

There are more river views downstairs, where the original screen porch — now
enclosed — serves as MOMO’s bar and main dining room. Two wide openings that
were once exterior windows now function as a chef’s table of sorts, with high
leather-backed stools at a counter looking into the open kitchen. When the
weather’s warm, guests can eat even closer to the water on a brick-paved patio
with tables shaded by broad umbrellas.



Buy Now

Patrons sit at the bar area at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston on
Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

With an ample wine and cocktail list and appetizers sized for sharing, a party
could easily sip and graze their way through a casual afternoon. A few larger
plates, however, offer options for an even more substantial meal.

The shrimp and grits ($23) might better be termed shrimp, pork and grits, for
the mound of creamy, coarse-ground yellow grits are buried beneath a layer of
pulled pork and a flood of reddish-brown smoked tomato gravy. Somewhere amid all
that (and beneath a generous white scoop of cool crème fraîche) lurk a
half-dozen or so sautéed shrimp. By the time you stir everything together, it’s
more a pork, shrimp and hominy stew than a bowl of shrimp and grits, but it’s
still hearty, smoky and very flavorful.




The cacio e pepe ($18) is simpler but equally hefty, with strands of thick
bucatini enrobed in a smooth, buttery sauce that prickles with black pepper. One
could add confit chicken to the bowl if desired ($6 upcharge), but I have no
idea how one would walk to the car afterward.


Food


RESTAURANT REVIEW: LOWCOUNTRY'S ONLY PAKISTANI RESTAURANT BLENDS STREET FARE
WITH SIT-DOWN

 * By Robert F. Moss Special to The Post and Courier



On my last visit to MOMO, I found myself contemplating the just-finished meal
while gazing out across the park as families pushed strollers and walked dogs
along the curving sidewalks. It wasn’t fine dining, really. I would peg it more
as modern American comfort food, but with a few unexpected wrinkles.



A few seem questionable (mushrooms and shredded lettuce on a patty melt?), but
others are quite compelling. A sprinkle of togarishi, for instance, adds a kick
of red pepper and sesame to the ceviche. The pale yellow Nothing Else Compears
cocktail ($13) — a prickly blend of pear vodka with spiced honey and prosecco —
is garnished with a bright orange chunk of Negroni-soaked pear, and its herbally
bitter bite is quite pleasant.

Buy Now

Smoked chicken thighs are served at MOMO at Riverfront Park in North Charleston
on Dec. 23, 2022. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

Grace Beahm Alford gbeahm@postandcourier.com

Most of the flavors, though, are right down the middle, if perhaps a bit
repetitive. The fragrant dill fronds and minced chives that garnish the ceviche
top the whitefish pâté and the shrimp and grits, too. Pickled red onions finish
not just the ceviche but also the oyster sliders, the pâté, the Brussels sprouts
($10), a baby wedge salad ($14) and the pimento and pickle plate ($10). But
they’re tasty pickled onions, brightly tart and with a hint of sweetness, too.



Does it merit a special trip out to North Charleston and wending one’s way
through the industrial maze of the old Navy base just to sample the food?
Perhaps not. But if you’re already heading to Riverfront Park, it’s absolutely
worth stopping in for a good cocktail and a hearty bite with a rare waterfront
view.



The city of North Charleston upped the ante in November, when it opened the new
$8 million pedestrian bridge over Noisette Creek — an important next step in
converting the once-abandoned base into a community asset and a draw for
visitors. With that distinctive double-arched bridge at the north end of the
park and MOMO anchoring the south, that transformation seems well on its way.



Restaurant Reviews


REVIEW: MAYA DEL SOL'S MADE-FROM-SCRATCH SENSIBILITY STRADDLES COMFORT FOOD,
FINE DINING

 * Robert F. Moss







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