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RUBBERIZED PRESSURE ROLLERS FOR EDGEBANDERS

Edgebander owners discuss custom roller tweaks for improving performance.
December 7, 2008


QUESTION

Does anyone have an edgebander that has a rubber covered control roll as the
initial pressure roll? I have a SCM basic two that I am going to partially
rebuild. The three pressure rolls will be machined turned, but I thought it
might be better to think about using a rubber covered roll. I have noticed
problems with partial adhesion, top or bottom of panel edging. I have watched
the squareness of the panel edge, but still sometimes have this problem.


FORUM RESPONSES


(CABINETMAKING FORUM)

From contributor C:

I have a Cehiisa EP2A that originally came with 4 solid steel contact rolls, but
shortly after delivery, they offered to exchange the second roll for one that
has a thin layer of urethane (1/4" thick) covering the outside. This has
eliminated any edgeband bonding failure due to non-square cuts of the panel saw.
The urethane is flexible enough to follow minor deformations. I am unsure of the
hardness of the urethane. Maybe the guys at Adwood could clue you in.

From contributor O:

The rollers are set at a slight angle to the glue. The rubber coating might not
remove enough heat and allow for separation to occur. Go to the show in Atlanta
and talk to the people there.

From contributor P:

I created this add on for the Cehiisa banders years ago because at that time all
the pressure rollers were 90 degrees. I wanted something that would close up the
scoring line from sliders, thus we offered a pressure roller that had 1/4"
silicone rubber bonded to the roller. The rubber was around 60 durometer.
You can have this done at Black Brothers or Fletcher Machine. The rubber is
cooked onto the steel roller and then turned/ground.

The first roller is driven and its job is to create a smooth transition between
the tape/strip and board, force the hotmelt into the substrate as well as make
the bond happen. The rubber will eliminate a tracking problem with the
edgebanding (too much pressure at the first roller will create lots of problems
with tracking).

The second roller is not driven and is used to hold the rollerized banding. The
edging is still soft enough to be manipulated slightly. If you have this done at
all you can still have heat removal if needed.

The number of pressure rollers a machine has is determined by the speed of the
drag chain. The faster the drag chain, the quicker the material moves through
the pressure station. A machine that moves at 30 fpm will need a smaller number
of rollers than a machine that runs at 60 fpm. The panel must stay in the
pressure station long enough to completely bond before entering the end trim
station or the edging can be loosened at the corners when trimmed.

One other thing is the glue used. There are various glues available according to
the speed of the machine. A glue that sets fast is designed for a machine that
the drag chains run faster. If you try to use it in a slower machine, you will
experience problems with bond (it sets up before getting to the first pressure
roller). It will also wear out your glue roller assembly in short order because
the machine is designed to run a certain product. If anyone experiences these
problems, contact the machine supplier and get their recommendations.

From contributor L:

Our machine has one powered and 4 idler rollers. Two of the idlers are set at a
slight angle to the edge to tightly close top and bottom. I've no experience
with a soft roller. On an older bander the bearings that hold the roller pivot
arms can become worn and allow the idler to run at other than 90 degrees. Do a
test setup with a slip of paper as a feeler gage between the roller and the
panel (lock the adhesive roller back so you have a dry edge). Stop the panel
(chain) and set the pressure rollers until it just touches the work. Feel at the
top and bottom of the panel... The thicker the panel, the easier it is. Your
rollers are pneumatically moved in, you will want to check the timing. You don't
want to press on the end of the banding that is not glued.

Another good test to run once in awhile is using clear banding so you can see
the glue spread and evenness of the pressure. A related problem is glue squeeze
out. If the bander has run many miles of 3/4" panel, the roller may have worn
enough that the glue roller is too close to the panel may hit the unworn area of
the roller resulting in poor glue spread. Adjust the glue roller to the panel
most of the time. Adjust the glue pot shoe so there is a very slight drag on the
panel. After the adjustments, run a panel through the roller for a couple of
inches just after the panel clears the shoe. After the panel clears and dries,
run it into some clear banding and set the amount of adhesive being applied.
It's amazing what you will see after making the adjustments once in a while. Be
careful and have the adjustments done by someone that understands your machine's
system. Changing one thing can have negative affects on others. Record any
changes so if you need to you can go back. Look at a bander as a whole string of
relatively simple operations that occur one after another. If one operation is
wrong it will probably have an impact on each other operation. Allow only one
primary operator and one back-up operator to use the machine.

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