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The New York Times


RED STATES, RAINBOW TOWNS

Read full article
4 LGBTQ-friendly towns in red states
3k
Ainara Tiefenthäler
Thu, June 29, 2023 at 7:32 AM EDT·11 min read


A wave of legislation targeting LGBTQ+ people has swept conservative-led
statehouses since 2021, when Arkansas passed a law banning hormone therapy and
puberty blockers for transgender youths under 18. So far this year, according to
the advocacy group Human Rights Campaign, more than 500 bills have been
introduced in states including Arizona, Oklahoma and South Carolina.

These states might not top the list of vacation destinations for LGBTQ+
travelers seeking to feel welcome, accepted and safe. But even in hostile
political environments, some queer-friendly communities are thriving and
attracting tourists with food, festivals and, of course, drag shows. We spoke
with people in four of these places about why they love their towns and why they
say LGBTQ+ travelers should still come.

Eureka Springs, Arkansas: Out and proud in the Ozarks

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In 2017, Ethan Avanzino and his partner, David, hopped in their car in Dallas
and drove to Eureka Springs, in the Ozarks of northwestern Arkansas, for the
weekend. They didn’t know exactly what to expect.

“We were just like, ‘What is happening?’” Ethan Avanzino recalled. “It was just
amazing to see this small town in Arkansas covered in rainbows.”

Eureka Springs, established as a resort town in the late 19th century, has a
stunning collection of Victorian buildings and homes perched on mountainsides
and tucked into gorges — a combination of architectural and natural beauty that
for decades has attracted artists and bohemians to the area. The town also draws
Christian tourists with a seven-story statue of Christ and a passion play — a
reenactment of the trial and crucifixion of Jesus — nearby.

In 2007, the town became the first in Arkansas to allow same-sex couples to
enter into domestic partnerships, and in 2014 the first in the South to issue
them marriage licenses, after a state judge struck down Arkansas’ ban on
same-sex marriage.

The Avanzinos tied the knot in 2020 at the local Thorncrown Chapel, a space that
not only felt “very inclusive” to the couple, but also that many architects
consider a 20th-century masterpiece. Three years after their first visit, the
two had permanently resettled in the town, which has fewer than 2,200 residents
and is about one hour north of Fayetteville. There, they bought an old motel and
started a small business: the Wanderoo Lodge, a hotel, restaurant and bar that
has live entertainment as well as karaoke and trivia nights, not to mention a
receptionist who’s a former Miss Gay America.

Story continues

“I heard someone describe our place as Eureka Springs’ living room,” Ethan
Avanzino said. “Because people from all different walks of life, all different
ages, backgrounds, genders, sexual orientations end up on our porch.”

Now, the couple grab coffee every morning at Bean Me Up, where their two dogs
get “treats every time they come through.” For breakfast, Ethan Avanzino likes
to treat himself to the Eureka Bowl — “green chili and pork and deliciousness” —
at Three Bird Cafe, which is run by a lesbian couple who also recently settled
in town. For a more substantial meal, his pick is Grotto Wood Fired Grill and
Wine Cave, which serves steaks as well as “heavenly” fried brussels sprouts. For
a night on the town, there’s Missy’s White Rabbit Lounge, a downtown spot with
live music, karaoke and open-mic nights — and it’s right next to a prime photo
opportunity: a staircase painted like a rainbow.

On weekends, the Avanzinos enjoy Eureka Springs’ natural setting and outdoor
activities, like mountain biking along Lake Leatherwood, swooshing through the
treetops at Eureka Springs Zipline or going for a dip at Beaver Lake, a roughly
30,000-acre reservoir nearby. Eureka Springs also celebrates “diversity weekend”
— its version of Pride — three times a year.

“I think it’s important for queer people to be in red states to show that we
exist here,” said Ethan Avanzino, who is transgender. “I think people have this
idea of what Arkansas is: that it’s this backwoods, hillbilly, uneducated, ugly
state. And it is anything but that.”



Norman, Oklahoma: Where drag royalty holds court

When Dyon Matlock’s brother first tried to persuade her to move to Oklahoma from
Michigan, she dismissed him. “There’s no gay people in Oklahoma,” she recalled
thinking. “That’s where the buffalo live.” Nevertheless, she made the move last
summer and quickly realized just how wrong she was.

Less than an hour away from Oklahoma City, where she lives, Matlock, 38, has
found a second home in Norman, the first municipality in the state to adopt a
nondiscrimination ordinance to protect its LGBTQ+ residents and the only perfect
100 in Oklahoma on the Human Rights Campaign equality index. The city of nearly
130,000 is home to the University of Oklahoma, a major collection of French
Impressionist paintings, and annual events like the Medieval Fair, a free
gathering for history buffs that’s been held since 1977, and the National
Weather Festival, a celebration of all things meteorological hosted by the
National Weather Center.

In December, Matlock, who’s been performing in drag for more than two decades
and describes herself as a “Southern gentleman” both on and off the stage, made
the trip to Norman for a different festivity: the city’s Pride Royalty pageant.
And she won.

Since then, as drag king Dyon Top, Matlock has become a fixture in Norman,
charming mothers and daughters brunching at Victoria’s: The Pasta Shop, where
she describes the lasagna as “so freaking cheesy”; cracking jokes onstage at the
Deli, where drag performers and rock bands hand each other the mic; and even
singing live — drag artists often prefer to lip-sync — at Equity Brewing, “a
really cool place” decked out with rainbow flags. For a more low-key
performance, Matlock favors a karaoke spot, like Red Brick Bar, a place where
“whatever you are is cool” and everyone cheers equally for rock, country and R&B
numbers.

Matlock’s love of music goes deep. After she came out as a lesbian at the age of
12 in a military, Southern Christian, African American household, the only place
she found solace for many years was the choir. Then she discovered drag.
Microphone in hand, she hopes not only to entertain, but also to send a message:
“My goal is to make sure that everybody, especially the youth, knows that they
have a place, that there’s people just like them.”

Norman has welcomed that message. When Matlock visited for Pride last month, the
octogenarian receptionist at the Montford Inn, a family-owned bed-and-breakfast
in the center of town, offered her some home-baked cookies for the occasion and
didn’t bat an eye when Matlock reemerged from her room as Dyon Top.

Bisbee, Arizona: An oasis for queens of the desert

Fernando Serrano, 29, has traveled all over the United States, Canada, Mexico
and South America. Yet something always drew him back to Bisbee, Arizona, where
he grew up.

“It’s a weird energy,” said Serrano of the old mining town on the edge of a
massive, human-made crater from which copper was extracted into the 1970s. “It’s
like there is still energy pouring out of that hole and just working its magic.
I call it the little melting pot.”

After the miners left, the artists and poets came, turning what was once known
as the “Queen of the Copper Camps” into a quirky high-desert community of 5,000
— or as locals like to call it, a “Mayberry on Acid.” Aside from its historic
charm and free-spirited culture, the town, which is at an elevation of over
5,000 feet, is also blessed with a relatively temperate climate compared with
low-lying places like Tucson, about two hours to the northwest.

The rule of thumb to navigate the small town’s two main streets, Serrano said,
is that “Main Street is where all our little shops, boutiques and hotels are,”
and “the Brewery Gulch is where you go after 9, when you want to take the wig
off.”

One of his favorite spots to socialize is the Grand Hotel on Wednesday evenings,
when the town’s many musicians gather to jam, while other locals unwind after
work. Two other places to “catch good tunes” are the Quarry, a queer- and
woman-owned comfort-food restaurant with live music, and the Courtyard, a small
events venue, where “anytime there’s music, you know it’s going to be good.”

For a bite, there’s “really good Vietnamese food” at Thuy’s Noodle Shop, run by
a transplant from Ho Chi Minh City. Serrano recommends the bun cha gio, a cold
noodle salad with pork, and the beef pho.

For Sunday brunch, “everybody just sunbathes and gets cocktails” at the Shady
Dell, a diner and vintage trailer park where weekenders can also rent an
airstream for what he calls a “1950s fantasy.” Visitors may also be caught in a
time warp at Classic Rock Couture, which sells jackets, hats and T-shirts, from
original 1970s gems to new, Western-inspired designs.

Last year, Serrano bought his first home, where he now lives with his husband,
right at the edge of the mining pit. Accepting and affordable, the town, he
said, is the ideal place to pursue his artistic passions and work on his own
jewelry line, Queen of the Rodeo. Another perk: His mother, who has lived in
Mexico since being deported when he was a child, is now just 15 minutes away,
right across the border.

Greenville, South Carolina: ‘The welcome light stays on’

Eboni Sims remembers a time when people would protest and hurl bottles at her
outside the New Attitude, a gay club in Greenville, South Carolina. Starting in
the late 1980s, she worked as a performer and manager at the club, which was
known for its lineup of Black LGBTQ+ entertainers. She also remembers not
feeling welcome at the Castle, the larger, mostly white gay club, which
advertised itself as the “largest private disco in South Carolina” and drew
people from near and far with its sophisticated light shows.

“I didn’t want to be secluded to one spot,” said Sims, who after eight years of
competing finally won the Castle’s biggest pageant in 1999 and subsequently
became the first transgender person of color to be a show director at the venue.
“I wanted to be able to experience that light show.”

Greenville has changed a lot since then: Both clubs are now closed, and Sims has
quit nightlife. But the city is full of new attractions for LGBTQ+ residents and
visitors. “Now there are so many different venues where the welcome light stays
on,” Sims said.

Less than a three-hour drive from both Atlanta and Charlotte, North Carolina,
Greenville, with 72,000 residents, is the largest city in upstate South
Carolina, offering museums, restaurants, shops and everything else you would
expect from an urban hub. But the city, a former textile center in the foothills
of the Blue Ridge Mountains, also gives visitors easy access to nature. It is
surrounded by lakes and rivers, is not far from several state parks, and has two
picturesque waterfalls right in the center of town.

According to the Upstate SC LGBT+ Chamber of Commerce, where Sims is a board
member, Greenville and its surroundings have become home to around 100
queer-owned businesses, including the vegan bakery Basta, Drift Float & Spa and
the Tex-Mex restaurant Comal 864, whose chef was a 2023 semifinalist for a James
Beard Award.

Sims said she enjoyed the laid-back and inclusive atmosphere at many of
Greenville’s newer establishments. At Bar Margaret, an LGBTQ-owned craft
cocktail bar, she looks out for an exciting rotation of live events and shows
that remind her of “the way the Castle used to be.” For a drink and some
entertainment, Sims also frequents DT’s Tavern, a downtown spot catering to
“different ages and different demographics,” and Gaslight Bar & Grill, a typical
gay bar: It’s a “really cute” place, she says, where “everybody’s accepted.”

After a long day of work, however, Sims said her top pick was Modal, a
queer-owned hostel, coffee shop and gallery where she could relax with a glass
of wine while admiring some art or sitting out on the patio.

“Living in the South right now is incredible. So much has changed and is at the
verge of changing,” said Sims, who since leaving the clubs has poured her energy
into running the Ladies Room, a support network for transgender women of color.
“Come down here and give it a chance, because it takes all of us. We’re always
one conversation away from change.”

c.2023 The New York Times Company





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   SUPREME COURT RULES AFFIRMATIVE ACTION 'MUST END' IN COLLEGE ADMISSIONS
   
   
   The Supreme Court struck down decades of legal precedent that allowed
   colleges and universities to consider race as a factor in admissions.
   
   14h ago
   
 * The Daily Beast
   
   MSNBC HAS QUIETLY SURGED OFF CNN’S AND FOX’S WOES
   
   
   Illustration by Elizabeth Brockway/The Daily BeastWhile CNN and Fox News
   struggle to win back longtime viewers amid various controversies of their own
   making, MSNBC is quietly reaping the benefits of its rivals’
   misfortunes.While both CNN and Fox News saw their ratings plunge this past
   quarter compared to last year, MSNBC experienced a surge, tallying
   significant year-over-year growth across all dayparts and
   metrics.Furthermore, though the liberal-leaning cable network hasn’t yet
   fully caught up
   
   21h ago
   
 * Ad•Rival Smartwatch
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   ADAFTER TESTING DOZENS OF SMARTWATCHES, THIS IS #1
   
   
   This Premium Smartwatch Was Just Named "Best Smartwatch of 2023" and It's on
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 * Yahoo Sports
   
   J.J. WATT JOINS CBS SPORTS AS AN NFL ANALYST, WILL APPEAR ON 'THE NFL TODAY'
   PREGAME SHOW
   
   
   J.J. Watt is the latest former NFL player to become a broadcaster.
   
   13h ago
   
 * BBC
   
   INDIANA JONES: CAR BUYER DISCOVERS NEW MOTOR STARS IN FILM
   
   
   The new owner of a classic car says he did not realise it had been driven by
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   19h ago
   
 * The New York Times
   
   PRIGOZHIN MAY BE GONE, BUT NOT THE FAILINGS HE RANTED ABOUT
   
   
   The Russian warlord whose 24-hour mutiny provoked the worst crisis to roil
   the country in three decades has been packed off to an uncertain exile —
   along with the foul-mouthed critiques of the Russian military that won him
   legions of followers, especially within the ranks. Yet the problems
   identified by Yevgeny Prigozhin, the leader of the Wagner mercenary group,
   did not disappear with him, military analysts say, and are likely to continue
   to fester, enraging troops and further lowering already
   
   17h ago
   
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