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christian_bordin


14 BEST MEN’S OVERCOAT BRANDS: ULTIMATE GUIDE (UPDATED 2023)



Men's Fashion Guides
FashionBeans Editors
June 16, 2023

We independently evaluate all recommended products and services. Any products or
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If you have good taste, as the saying goes, you can shop anywhere. But knowing
what to buy when you get there, well that’s a different story altogether.

For all the smart-casual occasions that might come up during the winter season,
it’s hard to beat a classic men’s overcoat. Insulating, versatile and an easy
way to take any look up a notch, the outerwear style is a fundamental part of
any well turned-out man’s wardrobe.

Mens Style and Grooming


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Wool might not be waterproof, but it is water-resistant, capable of holding 20
percent of its weight in water before feeling heavy or wet. It’s also one of the
warmest fabrics around, made up of fine fibers that trap air that can be heated
up by the body. And then there’s the overcoat’s simple, evergreen cut, which
means you can take it to the Christmas party just as easily as you can throw it
over a hoodie to wait in line for the latest Supreme drop.



In case you needed any more convincing, here we take you through everything you
need to need to know about this most enduring of menswear pieces – from the best
places to buy one to the key ways you can style it.



Our Top Picks
Best Overall Overcoat:
ISTO

Best Basic:
L'Estrange London

Best Duster Overcoat:
The Jacket Maker 

Best Cold Weather Overcoat:
Billy Reid 

Best To Pair With Suits:
Hugo Boss

Best Overcoat To Invest In (Long-Lasting):
Asket

Best Splurge:
Brunello Cucinelli

Best Cropped Options:
Ted Baker

Best Luxury Option:
Dolce & Gabbana

Most Versatile Overcoat:
NNO7







In This Article
 1. Our Top Brands
 2. What To Look For
 3. What is An Overcoat?
 4. The Evolution Of The Overcoat
 5. How To Wear An Overcoat



 



The Jacket Maker






1. BEST OVERALL OVERCOAT: ISTO

The cut, quality, and affordability of the clothes on offer at Portuguese
menswear brand ISTO have made it an under-the-radar favorite among the menswear
pack. Its overcoats are no exception, offering contemporary updates of
traditional styles with a shoulder-hugging fit and often produced using wool
sourced from historic Italian mills.





View It On ISTO






2. BEST BASIC: L’ESTRANGE LONDON

Focused on classic cuts and wardrobe staples L’estrange London still tries to do
their best as a company to be responsible to its stakeholders and the
environment.

By creating a journey with their customers in mind, their pieces add well to
many wardrobes. Specifically, the outerwear pieces are created with an
unstructured fit that means they pair well alongside casual streetwear pieces.
At the pub or headed to a party their shower-proof, harder-to-crease cotton and
rattle-free silver snaps will get to there in style.





View It On L'Estrange London




3. BEST DUSTER OVERCOAT: THE JACKET MAKER 

This may shock you, but originally dusters were worn to protect horseback riders
from, you guessed it, dust. Home tailors made them using a dense canvas that
held up no matter the age of the garment or the season being dealt with. They
weren’t even cut using proper tools; Women actually used axes, or whatever else
they had in their 18th-century homesteads, to make the necessary rough-hewn
cuts.

Fast forward a few centuries, and we have The Jacket Maker crafting the best
leather dusters we’ve ever seen. Their leather offers a much slicker look than
canvas did for the US cowboys, and it isn’t even cut using a crappy old wood
cutter’s ax. Cowboys would have drooled over this soft, smooth full-grain
vegetable-tanned leather.

You can get the same custom fittings that a home tailor would have provided,
except these are leatherworking masters. The Jack Maker has also set out to
provide incredible leather dusters to men of all shapes, with sizes ranging from
XS to 4X. Want a custom piece? The pros at The Jacket Maker will work with you
to create the best leather duster for you. 

Looks like it might be time to channel your inner cowboys.





View It On The Jacket Maker




4. BEST COLD WEATHER OVERCOAT: BILLY REID 

There’s a reason a classic remains a classic. Despite the most clever of trends,
the Peacoat keeps outshining many cold-weather competitors. The heavy, typically
wool material helps keep the cold out while a traditional double-breasted design
means you can take this coat from the boardroom to the bar, (think tailored
trousers AND comfy joggers) without looking out of place.

While there are many options on the market, Billy Reid keeps proving that they
know the ins and outs of menswear staples. In particular, the Bond Peacoat shows
a deep understanding of what men need out of an overcoat (and not just because
it sells out season after season).



Crafted with Italian Melton wool, and all the quality fixings of a top-notch
peacoat, this coat will perform in the bone-chilling cold, along with wetter
conditions (the power of high-quality moisture-wicking wool). This is a great
piece to incorporate into your everyday look, it’s easy to style and hits all
performance markers – soon you’ll be reaching for it every time you leave the
house.





View It On Billy Reid






5. BEST TO PAIR WITH SUITS: HUGO BOSS

When it comes to making clothes, Hugo Boss has German engineering down to a tee.
Case in point: the brand’s cashmere and wool-blend men’s overcoats, which swap
bells and whistles for smooth, suit-like linings and notched lapels swiped
straight from the tailoring handbook.





View It On Hugo Boss




6. BEST AFFORDABLE OVERCOAT: MARKS & SPENCER

For proof you don’t have to skip a few meals in order to afford a quality
overcoat, look no further than Marks & Spencer. The ever-consistent department
store turns out classic iterations made from wool spun at the celebrated Balli
mill in Northern Italy as well as more trend-led and statement takes.





View It On Marks & Spencer




7. BEST OVERCOAT TO INVEST IN (LONG-LASTING): ASKET

Quality and responsible garment maker Asket works towards creating no-compromise
clothing that will last a lifetime. Their fierce focus on garment longevity
secures their pieces as stables in any man’s minimalist wardrobe. Committing to
‘Lifecycle Responsibility‘ Asket is ready to help repair or take back pieces of
their clothing you no longer wear to either repurpose or continue a second life.
But with their timeless tailoring with both comfort and function in mind, there
is little chance you won’t get your money’s and season’s worth out of this
jacket.





View It On Asket






8. BEST SPLURGE: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

Dubbed ‘The King of Cashmere’, Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli has been
spinning the soft stuff into luxury clothes since the mid-‘80s. The brand’s
overcoats strike a balance between unstructured styles and a those with a more
rigid cut, in a smart yet modern colour palette of light greens and deep browns.
Basically, outerwear doesn’t get much better than this.





View It On Saks Fifth Avenue




9. BEST CROPPED OPTIONS: TED BAKER

At Ted Baker, it’s what’s on the inside that counts, so expect jazzy linings
aplenty at the British brand. Not that the outside has been forgotten, mind. Its
overcoats are made out of expertly woven materials and cut slightly cropped,
which makes them more flattering for shorter body types.





View It On Selfridges




10. BEST LUXURY OPTION: DOLCE & GABBANA

With an enumerable list of famous wearers, it’s no understatement to say that
Dolce & Gabbana is one of the pinnacle makers of the overcoat. The brand is so
synonymous with the classic silhouettes and haute streetwear that some other
labels follow quickly after D&G releases a new season capsule to get their cut
of the newest trends.





View It On Farfetch




11. MOST VERSATILE OVERCOAT: NNO7

NN07 (which stands for ‘no nationality’) takes a global approach with its
clothing. As a result, overcoats by the Copenhagen-based label sit somewhere
between British formality with their smart double-breasted cut and the looser
almost unisex fit more popular among its fellow Scandinavian brands. Keep your
outfit underneath slim for maximum impact.





View It On Mr Porter




12. BEST SLIM-FIT OVERCOAT: CELINE

With revered designer Hedi Slimane at the helm, luxury fashion label Celine has
been quietly stopping slim-fits from falling to the bottom of the fashion pile.
Its overcoats are still cut with some room, but the soft shoulders brought on by
a relaxed raglan sleeve mean they work best with a sharper, slimmer fit
underneath.





View It On Mr Porter




13. BEST DESIGNER OVERCOAT: GUCCI

Classic runway and streetwear brand Gucci complements any outfit with a splash
of their classic eye-catching outerwear. Consistently pushing the boundaries,
it’s no surprise their outerwear capsule is jam-packed with color and patterns,
plus with different length options, there is a cut for every type of body. It’s
what’s on the outside that counts, right? Time to catch the attention of all
those onlookers this season.







View It On Ssense




14. BEST CLASSIC OVERCOAT: REISS

Premium high street brand Reiss specializes in classic British style without the
waffle. It makes sense, then, that it excels at the simply cut men’s overcoat,
crafting the heritage staple out of a neat textured wool-blend in a modern, slim
fit. Grab a version in a light, oatmeal shade of camel for a slick take on this
outerwear icon.





View It On Reiss




WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A MEN’S OVERCOAT


FABRIC

If you’re looking to invest in an overcoat that you’ll wear for years to come,
choose a style that is 100 per cent wool and that has a decent weight to it
(around 4lbs for most men).

“Men’s Overcoats made entirely of wool will keep you warm and can weather the
storm without falling to pieces,” says Chris Gove, founder of British menswear
brand Percival.

Alternatively, you could try a cashmere version, but not only are these usually
eye-wateringly expensive, they’re also likely to show wear at the cuffs and
collar quicker than a 100 per cent wool design would. Try a wool-cashmere blend
if you just can’t do without a little luxury.


FIT

Despite being the final thing you throw on before heading outside, how an
overcoat hangs off your body shouldn’t be a last-minute thought.

“Fit is extremely important when deciding on a men’s overcoat,” says Alex
McCart, head of menswear buying at Reiss. “If you’re to wear it over a suit, it
is important to make sure that there is enough room in the shoulders and waist
to fit your blazer underneath. As well as it being very uncomfortable, it can
look like the coat is too small for you.

“If you’re looking for something more casual, then its best to try the size down
for a sleeker look, and something with a softer shoulder.”





Asket




COLOR

Forking out for a good quality men’s overcoat may set you back financially, but
this is an investment you’re sure to receive a handsome return on. But only
providing you wear it regularly, which means getting your color choice right.

“Navy is going to look great with almost all of your wardrobe, however, don’t be
afraid to try on a rich camel,” says McCart. “This will look equally as good
with tailoring but also a great color to dress down with denim.”

Like the shirts, trousers and ties in your rotation, block colors should be your
starting point before moving on to more interesting patterns such as checks.




STYLE

While designers are constantly re-imagining the overcoat, adding elbow patches,
appliqué details, contrast collars and raglan shoulders, there are two main
styles to choose from: single-breasted and double-breasted.



Single-breasted versions are more minimal and clean, enabling them to be paired
with everything from your nine-to-five suits to a jeans and Oxford shirt
combination at the weekend. Double-breasted overcoats, on the other hand, have a
formidable air of tradition about them and pair more easily with tailoring
unless worn unbuttoned and dressed down.

“Some of my favorite overcoat styles this season have been single-breasted
belted styles,” says Frazer Goater, a personal stylist at Harvey Nichols in
London. “I think something with texture and a herringbone finish can help make a
statement too.”


WHAT IS AN OVERCOAT?

As with many contemporary menswear staples, it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly
when the overcoat first emerged. Several online accounts name 1772 as the year
the overcoat was invented, while others claim the early 19th century was when
they really came into their own.

Regardless, usage of the word itself dates back to the late 18th century,
meaning overcoats were being worn before the Regency Period in Britain.

Crafted from a heavy fabric such as wool (Merino, melton etc.), the overcoat is
a long-sleeved coat that can be either single- or double-breasted, and usually
has a single vent at the back.

The topcoat, on the other hand, is a variant plenty of people often confuse with
the overcoat and is made from a lighter fabric, extending to the knee at its
very longest. To add to the confusion, there’s the greatcoat, which – for all
intents and purposes – is just a way of referring to an overcoat that’s
particularly bulky, heavy and hard-wearing.



gurjsohanpal / Instagram




HOW TO WEAR AN OVERCOAT

As you’ll likely have gathered by now, the overcoat is intended as an outer
layer for wear during the colder months. Many people think it’s merely the
final, winter-appropriate addition to a suit, but this essential has so much
more potential.

For a casual look inspired by the skinheads, try a coat with a trim-fitting
gingham shirt, rolled-up acid wash jeans, ribbed boot socks and a pair of chunky
Dr Martens. For something that’s refined but not formal, wear it over a slim-fit
blazer, jumper, white Oxford shirt and wool trousers, then finish with Derbies.

“I would also try an overcoat layered over a hoodie or denim jacket with chinos
and trainers to nail that ’90s style,” says menswear stylist Sarah Gilfillan,
who also recommends you pick your style of overcoat depending on your height.



“If you’re a shorter guy, don’t overwhelm yourself with fabric and go for a
neat, single-breasted, above the knee style. If you’re taller and a large build
then you can afford to experiment with raglan sleeved styles and calf-length
coats.”



theexiledbrit / Instagram




THE EVOLUTION OF THE OVERCOAT

Formerly used as a means of indicating (usually higher) class and social status,
the men’s overcoat found itself the subject of some serious re-appropriation in
the 1950s, when the Teddy Boys started gleaning style inspiration from the
Edwardian Era.

Worn with high-waisted, stovepipe trousers and chunky brogues or creepers, the
Teds breathed new life into the silhouette, lending it a little rebelliousness.

In the 1960s, as skinhead culture began to seep out of the more radical sectors
of the disenfranchised British working class, the men’s overcoat was once again
given an all-new guise.

Spurred on by the Teds’ and mods’ reinterpretation of clothing traditionally
associated with the upper classes, many skinheads began to team men’s overcoats
with rolled-up jeans, ‘bovver’ boots and sharply-cut check shirts buttoned all
the way to the top.

Later, during the early 1970s, the suedeheads – an offshoot of the skinhead
subculture – would go on to fully embrace the silhouette, combining it with
smarter attire, such as Prince of Wales check suits and brogues.

It was also around this time that knee-length silhouettes really gained traction
as the more versatile, practical style, rather than the dramatic full-length
versions that originally defined the overcoat.

By the 1980s, the men’s overcoat had made an almighty return to the mainstream,
becoming a key piece in the power dressing professional’s wardrobe – often cut
boxy, slightly oversized and worn over the relaxed suiting made so popular by
Italian designers like Giorgio Armani.

Now, given the #menswear generation’s renewed interest in all things tailoring,
the men’s overcoat has returned to the forefront of fashion.





FashionBeans Editors


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