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Fashion


THE RUNWAY — NOT TIKTOK — BROUGHT BACK BOHO CHIC

Chemena Kamali’s Chloé debut cemented the return of the trend that dominated the
noughties. What’s different now?

By Madeleine Schulz

March 7, 2024
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Photo: Peter White/Getty Images
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Boho chic is back, and this time it’s not a TikTok trend — it’s straight from
the runways.

Isabel Marant leaned into the aesthetic for its Autumn/Winter 2024 Paris Fashion
Week show, doubling down on the brand’s classic fringe by way of fringed skirts
and tassel scarves. And at Rabanne, Julien Dossena offered up a dose of boho
chic via tasselled overlays atop colourful patterned dresses, trousers and
tights. But it was Chemena Kamali’s debut at Chloé that sealed the deal. Models
walked the runway in big ruffles, sheer dresses and statement accessories like a
gold ‘Chloé’ logo belt and oversized shades. Leather tasselled trousers billowed
at the bottom, while tousled waves were crowned with a furry headband. Wooden
wedges lined the front row.



The day after the Chloé show, searches for the brand on The RealReal were up 37
per cent from the day prior. The brand’s sales are up month-on-month by over 130
per cent since Kamali’s debut, says Rachel Glicksberg, manager of women’s
fashion and new initiatives at The RealReal.



As Vogue Runway’s José Criales-Unzueta predicted back in January: “I think what
we’re going to see next is the revival of ‘boho chic’. Enter the Olsens in the
late 2000s (2007 comes to mind) running around NYC, enter Serena van der Woodsen
in Gossip Girl.”



Back in the noughties, frills and embellishments abounded, patterned headbands
were in and oversized eyelet belts hugged already-chaotic outfits. This time
around, boho chic has a more mature feel. Moda Operandi chief merchandising
officer April Hennig notes a tougher side to the new interpretation. See:
Chloé’s billowing dresses tucked into knee-high leather boots or topped with a
dark leather cape; look to Marant, where the designer paired a black tassel
skirt with a studded belt and grungey leather jacket.



Chloé AW24.

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The newer boho chic is more pared back, notes Hunter Shires, fashion critic and
podcast host. At Chloé, there may have been statement belts (that were thin and
gold), but the styling was still relatively simple: “Two statement accessories
max, using big vignette sunglasses to cover up your minimal makeup and a big bag
to throw all your shit in.” This reflects a desire for uncomplication,
familiarity and nostalgia.



When Vogue’s Mark Holgate asked Kamali about the aesthetic’s resurgence ahead of
her Paris debut, she shared her thoughts: “I think there’s this longing for
undone-ness and freedom and softness and movement, and when you look at history,
it’s rooted in the ’70s, when people wanted to free themselves from conventions
and traditional lifestyles and sexuality.”

In fashion, boho became oversaturated, the designer continued — it became too
commercial, and the industry got tired of the look. Now, perhaps enough time has
passed for brands to play with the aesthetic once more. “It’s the moment for it
again,” Kamali told Holgate. “People want to be themselves, live the way they
live — defining your life for yourself.”

Unlike most trends these days that start online, the return of boho chic was
born on the runway; perhaps it’s because of these high-fashion roots that
fashion’s been so receptive. Tied to this is Kamali’s familiarity with the house
and its boho codes — it’s now her third stint at Chloé. This traceability
grounds the aesthetic in a way that trends plucked from internet obscurity lack.



Mary-Kate Olsen at a gala in New York in 2008 – in a headband not unlike those
that featured in Chloé’s AW24 collection.

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For Matches head of womenswear’s Liane Wiggins, Kamali’s Chloé roots — and
subsequent understanding of how to appeal to the ‘Chloé woman’ — are a win.
“Chemena completely understands that customer and has a brilliant hand for the
house.”

As we saw in Paris, brands are leaning into their DNA instead of bucking to
quiet luxury. “Perhaps it’s not too surprising that after a few seasons of quiet
luxury’s tight grip on fashion, and the stifling pressures of the world around
us, clients are craving a sense of freedom that boho chic embodies: movement of
billowing silhouettes, the dreamy quality of softer fabrics,” Hennig says.

Amid the feeling of impending recession in the US, people are drawn to a strong
aesthetic, fashion theorist Rian Phin says. “Because a lot of fashion houses are
doing really commercial offerings and scaling back this season, it draws people
into these more exciting, more embellished characters that they can attach
themselves to — especially in such an uncertain time.”


NOT JUST ANOTHER TIKTOK TREND

The trend cycle moves faster than ever, but boho chic’s point of difference is
that, unlike the “cores” of today, it didn’t originate on TikTok. Boho chic took
root on the runway — then and now.

The Vogue Runway team has been eyeing a return aesthetic over the past couple of
seasons, Criales-Unzueta wrote, and the clues laid in the jewellery of the
spring collections. Phin points to Julien Dossena’s Jean Paul Gaultier Couture
show, elements of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton and an under-discussed
return of fringe in recent seasons as early indicators.



The signs were there, but these signs of pre-boho chic didn’t seem to resonate
with internet cultural fashion commentators, Phin says. And boho chic’s runway
origins may well be what’s putting them off. Hints of a pre-boho chic moment
received mention in fashion pubs, but wasn’t picked up by online commentators.
Phin attributes this ambivalence in part to a lack of context, courtesy of any
viral TikToks on the trend. “That it was ushered in through the runway makes
people, especially Gen Z, uncomfortable with it,” she says.



Kamali’s Chloé debut – with boho chic queen Sienna Miller in the background.

Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com
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Plus, commentators are busy with the flip side of the coin: indie sleaze. “I
think they don’t talk about [boho chic] as much because they’re focused on
different 2010s hipster aesthetics,” Phin says. Scroll through TikTok and you’re
more likely to hit content about the nightclub Cobra Snake era and smudged
eyeliner moments than the HBO Girls, hipster aesthetics that rode the boho chic
wave pre-revival days.

The runway ties are more likely to give the trend staying power, Phin adds, as
opposed to a brief moment in the algorithms of the masses. “That’s why it’s been
a little bit longer of a trend. It wasn’t overexposed on TikTok, or
over-explained or even favoured. Maybe [people] are easing into it more slowly.”

Fittingly, boho chic harkens back to a time when this was indeed how trends
began: on the runway.

Given the trend’s old school roots, it’s up to fashion — Chloé and otherwise
— to steer the aesthetic’s new direction. “I think it’s really smart to not just
mirror the TikTok or high-fashion Twitter trends,” Phin says. “To take the lead
and agenda set again.”


THE NEW BOHO CHIC

Aesthetically, it all feels very 2000s. Some items are well on their way back up
to the top, just as they were back in ’07. The wedges that lined the front row
at Chloé are already cementing their place as a hero item of the trend’s
resurgence, experts say. “You may have noticed that the VIP front row guests at
Chloé were all wearing the same wooden platform sandals — our shoppers certainly
did,” Glicksberg says. On The RealReal, searches for wedges were up 25 per cent
on the day of Kamali’s debut, and platforms 49 per cent the following day. “As
we get into warmer weather, we expect to see this trend only grow,” she says.
Matches’s Wiggins expects these to be a bestseller.

Phin also predicts a comeback of the paparazzi bag trend. Recall Mischa Barton
with her massive Dior Gaucho Double Saddle tote in 2006; or Sienna Miller giving
the paps the middle finger, bright red Balenciaga City bag crooked under her
arm, two years earlier.



Sienna Miller with a red city bag in Notting Hill in 2004.

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The market is already embracing slouchy hobo bags, says Aoife Byrne, senior
retail and fashion analyst at Edited. Suede bag arrivals have seen a 13 per cent
uplift year-on-year in the mass market, according to Edited. Balenciaga City
bags — a hallmark of the boho chic look — have also seen a recent surge in
interest. In the past year, searches stayed relatively consistent until a rise
in early 2024. Searches for the bag hit a peak in late January, and have
remained higher than the 2023 average since.



Fringe is another trend to watch. “We have already seen [it] on the rise in
recent years from contemporary brands like Bode and Kallmeyer, and we expect to
see this style increase in popularity,” Glicksberg says. The RealReal saw a 43
per cent increase in searches for fringe post-Chloé show.

Denim will continue to be a marker. “I loved the jeans Chemena came out in at
the end,” Wiggins says. “I look forward to seeing how the denim evolves.” She
also flags the capes as an anticipated “cult bestseller”.

Current cultural cues will also impact how the trend appears in our 2024
wardrobes, experts say.

“While the trend may be ripe for a reprise, a measured adaptation will keep it
current for today,” says Moda’s Hennig. “Chemena brought the trend forward by
infusing a confident attitude that makes the trend feel fresh and empowering — a
feeling that is best expressed as designed by a woman for women. A sexiness from
within, not for the male gaze.”

Edited expects a possible “Western spin”, Byrne says. “[It’s] thanks to
persistent cultural cues, most recently supplied by Beyoncé and Pharrell
Williams,” she says. Options for long cotton skirts, for instance, are already
up 64 per cent year-on-year, per Edited.

But, critic Shires says, boho chic isn’t a trend predicated on newness. Budgets
are tight — for brands and shoppers — and new ideas aren’t the priority for
brands. “They’re using nostalgia as a ploy for a core buyer market, lacking
exploratory ideas to pander to their business partners,” Shires says. “Women who
are now in their 30s, having lived through the boho chic era, now have larger
budgets and a desire to emulate the stylishness of their favourite childhood
fashion icons.”


BOHO CHIC: THEN & NOW



Now: Chloé AW24.

Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com
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Then: Mischa Barton in West Hollywood, Los Angeles in 2007.

Photo: Chris Wolf/Getty Images


Now: Rabanne AW24.

Photo: Acielle/StyleDuMonde
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Then: Mary-Kate Olsen in New York in 2004

Photo: BG034/Bauer-Griffin


Now: Isabel Marant AW24.

Photo: Acielle/StyleDuMonde
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Then: Blake Lively filming Gossip Girl in 2007.

Photo: Marcel Thomas/Getty Images


Now: Sienna Miller in the shoe of the season.

Photo: Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Getty Images
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Then: Sienna Miller in New York in 2006 with a Balenciaga City bag.

Photo: BG034/Bauer-Griffin


Now: Isabel Marant AW24.

Photo: Acielle/StyleDuMonde
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   By Lucy Maguire

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   By Maghan McDowell

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   By Laure Guilbault

 * 





Then: Blake Lively filming Gossip Girl.

Photo: James Devaney/Getty Images


Now: Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture 2023 collection, guest designed by Julien
Dossena.

Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
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   Gucci sales to slump 20% in Q1, Kering warns
   
   By Laure Guilbault

 * 





Then: The Olsen twins at the Met in 2005.

Photo: Robin Platzer/Getty Images


Now: Rabanne AW24.

Photo: Acielle/StyleDuMonde
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   By Lucy Maguire

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   By Laure Guilbault

 * 





Then: The Olsen twins at the Salon France-Ameriques in Paris in 2007.

Photo: Lorenzo Santini/Getty Images


Now: Ulla Johnson AW24.

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
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   By Lucy Maguire

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   Gucci sales to slump 20% in Q1, Kering warns
   
   By Laure Guilbault

 * 





Then: Sienna Miller in New York in 2006.

Photo: Niki Nikolova/Getty Images

Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.

More from this author:



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