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Effective URL: https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/threads/olmo-camper-rebuild.146576/
Submission: On June 22 via api from US — Scanned from DE
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OLMO CAMPER REBUILD
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32K views 41 replies 9 participants last post by Womblez Jun 12, 2013
N
Nevadal Discussion starter
191 posts · Joined 2010
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#1 · Nov 2, 2011 (Edited)
Hey all, I have been a member of the forums since I bought Olmo 14 months ago,
and have since had so much help off people on here that I figured it was time to
give something back! He's a 1993 2.4 AAB, with 208000 on the clock when I got
him, and have since done a few bits and pieces to keep him running nicely...
These include:
*
New CV drive boot on drivers side (leaking hydraulic fluid)
* New window seal on passenger side
* New rubber boots for door stays
* Filter changes all round etc. (I consider this standard maintenance and don't
count it ;-)
* New wiper blades (getting exciting now)
* Removed and refit screen after sorting rust around the edges
* Various other little bits of rust removing and coating with Vactan, rust
converter
* Added lots of little bits inside in the back, a mirror on the wall etc.
* Eberspacher D1LC heater
* Sprayed door panels and dash
* Added auxiliary tank for vegetable oil with 3 way solenoid switches for feed
and return to appropriate tanks
* Built a new dash from aluminium panel with gauges for oil pressure,
temperature, water temperature, EGT (for turbo conversion... ), voltage
(leisure and starter battery), internal temperature, fuel gauge for auxiliary
tank, and various switches for fuel heaters etc..
However, after finishing my time at university, I have decided I'm fed up with
him looking a little rusty, and well, old, and have embarked on a complete
rebuild of the back, sorting out some of the nagging issues in the process.
Hopefully this will culminate in a full respray with 2K, after the body work has
been sorted. He's a bit old, and has done a lot of miles, but touch wood - has
never let me down, and it's kind of too late now after spending so much time on
him these past few weeks to give up now!
These next few posts will mainly be on sorting the underlying bits of rust that
are on the van, as I don't really see the point in spending all the time and
effort in putting a full interior knowing that the body is rusting away
underneath me! Unfortunately this has meant some late nights sanding and wire
brushing away...
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N
Nevadal Discussion starter
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#2 · Nov 2, 2011
In the last few days I have fitted clear indicators, bought a whole load of van
carpet, glue, various plastic bits like a sidestep (in the hope that eventually
I'll have a floor to fit it to..), and other bits and pieces. I have a repair
panel for the sliding door, as the bottom of it has definitely seen better days!
Here is a slightly more telling view of the passenger side, and the various bits
of rust that need sorting. The bump on the rear left corner was me... on the way
to being late for a ferry I bounced it off a wall while reversing at a petrol
station.. ordered parking sensors when I got back but still waiting for a new
bumper to fit them to!
The arch on this side isn't as bad as on the drivers side, but still needs some
work. When I first got him I removed as much rust as I could with a wire brush
and then covered in rust converter and bits of primer here and there - served to
make it look quite ratty! This is my main motivation for sorting him out, as I'm
fed up of having so many ugly bits of rust and exposed metal all over! As I
removed more of the interior to get to the rust, it kind of ended up having the
whole of the inside removed, and I figured the inside wasn't the best layout
anyway...
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#3 · Nov 3, 2011
Here's another view of the other side - sprayed it with rattle cans after
sorting some of the rust on this panel, but still looks orrible! Been like this
for a few months now, only just had time to start to get to grips with it.
This is the interior layout, with the bed up.
Opposite the sliding door is a bench seat that folds out, with double swivel
seats at the front that form a pretty much full double bed across the whole
width of the van. However, I ended up pretty much living in the van on and off
for nearly a year, and found the arrangement to be pretty annoying! It's hard to
fold up the bed every day, and if you don't the only way in is to climb over the
bed into the kitchen, especially when you have bikes on the back like I do
whenever I travel anywhere. It just didn't seem like the best use of space, and
I didn't need the use of a full double bed - but you don't have much option with
this particular setup!
Once the inside is re-ply lined and carpeted (got some carpet from T4srus),
plans are to have a 2/3 width bed that is always down, as I don't carry more
than one passenger, and it would be nice to have somewhere to sleep that isn't
just cushions!
This is a view of the inside a couple of weeks ago, when I had removed most of
the cabinets (found a LOT of excess wood, some photos will follow...), with just
the lino floor left. All the units have since been removed, and most of the
focus has been on treating the rust that is on the floor, and welding up the
holes for the vents in the sides. The van came with a three way coolbox (that
will make way for a Waeco CR-50), so the vent holes for the gas burner aren't
required any more, and would be in the wrong place now tha bed is going in the
back!
Plenty more going to be happening in the next few days! As it's obviously too
late now to decide that the way it was wasn't too bad at all... I:
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#4 · Nov 4, 2011
Well, almost finished with the turbo conversion now, thanks to the details that
are on the forum! Had a few problems, mainly due to the fact that the kit I got
from ebay turned out to be a K14 volvo manifold... I also had a little trouble
due to the fact that the allen bolts holding the oil return from the turbo
looked like they were from the Titanic..
However, a set of decent mol-grips soon got them off, and I replaced the O-rings
between the oil cooler, and block while I was digging around down there, as
there were some small scale leaks coming from around that area. The gasket for
the dipstick is discontinued or so I was told at VW, luckily I found one in the
box of seals and gaskets that I got as part of the head gasket package. I also
have a copper decompression gasket for the head, custom laser cut for the T4,
think it's 1mm thickness or so. Wouldn't dream of raising the boost that much
just yet though, at least not without an LDA and a bit more tuning.
Here's a photo of the dash from a month or so ago, when the new insert was
fitted, still needs a little trimming around the edges and tidying up,
eventually planning on coating in carbon wrap as the aluminium doesn't seem to
stay polished for long. Got some switches and bits missing too, but they're all
ready to go when the time comes. I have the CAD files I used to make the dash
somewhere, will get a photo up sometime. And some better ones of the dash
itself.
I also have a 'momo' steering wheel (ebay special) that is ready to go on,
however I wasn't massively impressed with the ebay quality of boss mounts so
I've decided to have a go at making my own! The spline is the only part that I'd
have trouble with, but I have a mini lathe and milling machine so I'll see how
it turns out.
The main task at the moment seems to be removing the rust from the floor, and
priming it ready for a new coat of paint before the new ply floor goes in - it's
leaking slightly due to the old grilles being taken off the sides to allow for a
welded plate - so each new coat of paint has to be timed just right after the
rain!
New stereo arrived today, a Beat 375 with Bluetooth etc, going in a custom
centre console (to accomodate all those gauges...) made of ply and carpeted once
the back is a little more done. After looking at the drivers and passengers
swivel mounts, they appear decidedly homemade and uncrashworthy, so I've decided
to make the drivers fixed, and will get a new mount for the passenger side if
anybody has one going.... seems like two steps forward and one back at the
moment! I'll get a photo of them up tomorrow, and see what everyone else
thinks...
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#5 · Nov 4, 2011
Servicing eberspacher
I thought it might be a good idea to service the eberspacher heater I got for
the van just before last winter, as I've run it a fair bit (including
accidentally on vegetable oil, which it didn't like very much), so got a spares
kit off ebay. Here it is next to the old gauze for the glow plug.
Bit of a difference there, think it was time to be changed...
http://vwkombi.com/how-to-guides/eberspacher-servicing
This guide was what I used to take it apart and put back together again, was
super helpful although I couldn't get all the plastic rivets out intact, so had
to buy some new ones. Mainly due to my impatience. But they were quite fiddly...
This is what the inside of the combustion chamber looked like just prior to
screwing the fan unit back together, all fresh gaskets and fluffy ring thing.
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#6 · Nov 5, 2011
More primering of the floor today, almost half way ;-)
And welded a patch over one of the rust patches that had extended all the way
through the floor so was beyond saving...
Meanwhile the rest of the floor is still a little messy and covered in the tools
of the trade
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#7 · Nov 5, 2011
Almost have the whole floor primed and ready for paint today, also took off the
overhead compartment storage that is over the driver and passenger seat.
I always wondered what was to either side of the luggage space, as it doesn't
span the full width of the cab - now I know! Empty space!
I'm planning on putting this storage space back, but moving it slightly towards
the front to give more standing room in the kitchen. The space lost through the
move will be more than compensated by the expansion widthwise as the 'secret
space' is taken up. I'll insulate the sides with silver bubble wrap, then
probably carpet over the top - don't see the need for going crazy as it's inside
the van and shouldn't get too cold.
Looks a lot more spacious now! There was also quite a gap between the bottom of
the storage space, and the top of the headliner in the cab, so this will be
removed to allow for a lot more headroom, and possibly a flip down screen.
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#8 · Nov 5, 2011
Here is the steering boss that I got off ebay, not massively impressed with the
quality for £50, so going to have a go at making my own... it also has the wrong
internal diameter for the indicator return, at 36mm instead of 37. It's not a
massive job to file down the inside of the indicator return but I figured for
£50 it should work without modification to the van itself... maybe that's just
me! The holes drilled within it have swarf everywhere, and it just doesn't seem
to be finished very well. The rubber surround has casting flash all around it,
and generally doesn't look very tidy. So, going to make my own!
My steering wheel is delaminated on the top, (it's possible to twist the outer
tube all the way round) so I doubt it's worth much, so I took a hacksaw to it in
an effort to isolate the spline centre, the main part I don't think I could
make.
After getting through the two steel inserts that form the strongest part of the
wheel, the remaining rubber could be easily sliced off to reveal an aluminium
insert that has the spline complete with indicator return on the other side.
Indicator return - this can be easily removed from the wheel with a flat bladed
screwdriver:
Here is the insert without the wheel attached, it's possible to see the two
steel rods that normally hold the wheel to the centre and transmit the torque of
the steering. These will need to be replaced with high tensile allen bolts that
will do the same job.
Next job is to grind these steel parts down flush with the surface, then make a
mild steel plate that can be bolted to the face of it. After this, a 'basket'
structure of steel, bent ready to collapse in a crash situation will give the
boss depth, enough for the steering wheel to be in a position somewhere close to
normal. The plate with 6 M5 tapped holes in it will be welded to the top of this
basket.
New steering wheel that will be going on once I have a working adaptor!
Some other bits also arrived recently, a 12V regulator for the LED lights and
TV, rated to 150w which should be enough for everything to be on at once. The
LED lights are ready to go, once I have a roof to put them in! Also got an
eberspacher silencer, as it makes a fair noise when running. I also have an
intake silencer somewhere (bought from webasto) so it should be almost silent
when running...
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#9 · Nov 6, 2011 (Edited)
Steering boss build
I was letting the paint dry a little today inside the van before any more coats
go on, so got a little done on the steering wheel boss.
Here is the centre of the steering wheel ground flat:
And the adaptor plate cut from 3mm steel to match up to the steering wheel
centre:
After polishing...
Next job is to drill holes through the steering wheel centre that can then be
tapped to hold the two together. The plate with 6 5mm holes in it also needs to
be drilled and tapped, then the two plates can be welded together with the
basket like collapsible structure for crashworthiness.
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jason k
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#10 · Nov 6, 2011
good work!!
keep the pics comingT:
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#11 · Nov 7, 2011
Cheers mate, appreciate it. This is what the floor looked like before any work:
(This is after some wire brushing, everything silver has been attacked!)
Nothing too serious rust wise except for a couple of deep patches, but a lot of
little bits here and there that needed to be wire brushed to remove all trace of
rust! The threshold was pretty bad, brushed that back to bare metal before
priming:
All in all, it's probably not the best van to start a conversion with, and I
feel like I started off on the back foot with it already being fitted out fairly
poorly - all work up to this point has just been to raise the standard of the
base van to that which would be fit for a conversion!
I always wondered why I couldn't quite stand up in the back, even though it was
a high top...
Turns out there was 17-18mm ply with 1" battens underneath for the floor, and 2"
of insulation in the roof! This will be thinned slightly, also it's the nasty
fluffy stuff... Plans are for a silver foil bonded to the outer skin, followed
by some space blanket stuff behind the panels. The old van was always pretty
warm with the insulation and curtains drawn, and I'll have the eberspacher too
so don't expect the cold to be a problem. Glad the fluffy stuff is out now,
there was a nasty damp patch on the floor in the centre just behind the seats
that was the worst rust of all!
The 240v hookup on the outside has been welded up, please no unkind comments
about the welding... I: The idea is to add a little bit of neatness (and maybe
even stealth) to this old camper! All the welds in the floor have been painted
from underneath with hammerite for now, to be steam cleaned and treated at a
later date.
Here's the fully primed floor drying with a coat of 5002 medium blue ;-) Who
says you can't polish a turd?
Still a huge amount of work to do, windows are going to be replaced all round,
full camper interior fitted (bits are filling up the house at the moment with
nowhere to go...) but it will be a solid base on which to build.
Priorities:
* Build steering boss adaptor
* Get turbo conversion running - need to order some more hoses...
* Finish all welding in the back and painting
* Start laying the floor and flashbanding the rear arches
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lilgash
50 posts · Joined 2011
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#12 · Nov 7, 2011
good work so far fella, keep it coming
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jason k
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#13 · Nov 7, 2011
inspiring stuff.
what colour you gonna do the outside?
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#14 · Nov 7, 2011
Was thinking a darker blue, like the inside - I originally got this paint for
the outside but decided to go with 2K instead.. but I'm open to ideas! Today was
spent mainly working on the steering wheel adaptor, a fair bit of work in such a
small bit - maybe it was worth £50 after all... at least it will be fairly good
quality and I'll know it won't break ;-)
This is the steering wheel centre with the new extra holes drilled:
The edges of the 'ears' were welded to the steel inserts in the centre. These
welds will be tidied up later, just something to hold it together until it could
be tapped:
There a 2 M8 bolts (10.9 grade), and 5 M6 allen cap heads, also 10.9 grade. I
did a few rough calculations and it should be more than strong enough (at least
for my weedy arms on the wheel...)
The plate that has 6 M5 holes tapped in it and bolts to the new wheel was cut
out next with a few drill holes, joined up with a file. Bit ghetto, but works
ok. And good for building up those arms...
The arms forming the crush basket:
Tack welds holding the arms together:
With the adaptor ring resting on top - not welded yet. The entire set up will be
aligned on a mini lathe to ensure everything runs centred and true, otherwise
the wheel could be strange indeed to turn...
The adaptor ring has since been tapped for M5 screws, and the whole thing is
pretty much waiting to be aligned and welded!
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#15 · Nov 8, 2011
Not too much happening today, mainly focussed on sorting some of the gunge that
seems to have found its way into every nook and crevice in the back of the van!
In between the arch and the sidewall is especially bad, and takes a while...
also probably the worst job known to man.. But at least I know it will be rust
free soon enough!
Here is the steering boss welded up after alignment on the lathe -
And after a coat of hammerite (going to be getting a couple more)
The previous owner must have installed racking in the back of the van prior to
it being converted the first time, as there were sawn off ends of tubing welded
to the walls - took ages to grind off and clean up the upper rails, shown here:
Cut off:
Ground down, primed twice and painted
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#16 · Nov 9, 2011
A bit of a slow day today, but laid the first bit of flashband on the floor!
Once warmed up it is pretty easy to mould around the contours of the ridged
floor, and work out any air bubbles. I'm applying it in between the support
beams for the floor in the hope of deadening the panel vibrations, and then
laying a carpet of micro-jute over the top of some silver insulation foil. The
ply floor will sit on top of this, and hopefully provide a floor that gives
plenty of head room, in addition to an acceptable amount of insulation.
I also covered the rest of the roof towards the front in silver insulation, the
bubble wrap stuff from B and Q. It works well, and sticks easily with spray
contact adhesive.
Before:
After:
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#17 · Nov 9, 2011
In terms of ply for the roof, I'm planning on using a spacer on the beams that
run across the top - to give room for the space blanket insulation rolls, and
3mm ply so that it follows the contours around the corners, and 5.5mm ply on the
walls. Hopefully each sheet where they meet will curve a little and make a
seamless join that won't be noticed once covered in carpet etc. I was thinking
of headlining material for the roof in a black colour, to contrast with the grey
on the walls, any thoughts? (Side carpet was bought from T4rus, standard grey
stuff)
I was thinking of either this:
This is a kind of foamy texture, with 3mm of foam on the back which will help if
any tall people coming in do happen to bump their heads.. also should help a
little with insulation. I view the roof as far more important in terms of
insulation, being that heat rises etc. Not looking to go over the top, but
wouldn't mind a bit of heat retention in the winter.
The other option is this stuff, standard perforated vinyl:
Hmm all these decisions...
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#18 · Nov 9, 2011
Got my temperature sensor from Eurocarparts today - unfortunately it was the
wrong one... evidently explaining that I needed a blue 4 pin push fit sensor was
somehow translated into a black 2 pin screw fitting... :*
Original on the right:
Have got the correct sensor coming from VWheritage, part number 701 919 369 C
for the temperature sensor that works the coolant gauge in the dash. It has
always been sitting at the bottom of the scale, rising slightly maybe to a
quarter under heavy load.. I have replaced the thermostat with a genuine one, so
pretty sure the temperature regulation part of the system is working well - and
the fans etc. come on at the right time. Before the turbo conversion starts
working it would be nice to have a working temperature gauge just in case! I
pulled it out but left it connected to the plug - had to be heated up with a hot
air gun way beyond 100 degrees to make the gauge go over half way - moisture was
sizzling on the end of it (even though middle of the gauge should correspond to
90 degrees as far as I know), so I'm pretty sure it's out of spec.
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#19 · Nov 9, 2011
A little on the design of the electric circuits that are to go in the van:
Design of the electrics:
12-14V unregulated supply:
• Fridge (Waeco CR-50, 40 watts average consumption)
• Stereo (up to 160 watts + running power but normally only running under engine
conditions)
• Eberspacher D1LC (~20 watts once started, 200watts for glow plugs)
12V stabilised supply:
• TV (35 watts)
• LED lights (1.8 watts each, 6 total = 10.8 watts)
5V stabilised supply
• Media player (10 watts maximum)
All devices requiring 12V run off a common rail design, with a heavy duty cable
running from the leisure battery around the van. (Also known as a ring main
design) This allows for future addition of appliances without major rewiring
work required.
Everything will use a common earth grounded to the chassis, and will share this
with the starter battery.
Split charge system works from a voltage sensing relay – once the starting
battery voltage exceeds ~12.8V it is assumed to be fully charged and applies a
voltage to pin 12. This in turn activates the 100A relay that charges the
leisure battery. (Or batteries, if more than one are wired in parallel to give a
higher amp hour capacity). This system allows for a higher peak charge rating,
as if the leisure batteries are fully discharged they will require more than the
30A available from some split charge kits. I’m not planning to run the leisure
batteries down more than 50%, but in the event of full discharge they will draw
more than 30A and so to perform safely the whole system should really be rated
at 100A or more.
The alternator fitted to the van is an uprated 120A model, allowing for support
of the leisure batteries in addition to the vehicle on board electrics (which
are fairly limited given the age of the van…)
Key to the life of the battery is the operation of the heater – which must be
kept out of the starting regime as much as possible. The glow plug current draw
is massive, and so care must be taken to not set the thermostat at a level that
switches the heater on and off, but sustains a low level heat.
Solar panels:
At present it has an 80 watt solar panel fitted that gave enough charge to use
the strip lights, 10w bulb lights for reading, and the eberspacher heater on
short trips. I have not wired a split charge up yet, as the solar panels were
enough (with a 20A controller) to keep the leisure battery topped up without
trouble. The controller has the capacity to be expanded to 20A, which at 12V is
a wattage rating of 240. This means that I can add many more panels to the roof
safely, using the existing wiring.
There are around 4-5 hours of peak sun in the summer in the UK, falling to 1
hour in the winter.
Battery capacity
Most leisure batteries do not enjoy being fully discharged, and at most should
only be used down to 20% charge level. Anything beyond this can be quite
damaging to the internal structure, and should only be used in an emergency. In
reality, maximum life occurs when the charge level never passes beyond 50%. This
means that a 100Ah battery in reality should not be used for more than 50Ah
before being charged.
50Ah capacity is equal to 600 watt hours, (taking a mean 12V over the discharge)
and with the current 80 watt array of panels would take a day and a half to
charge fully from 50%, even in the summer. (80 watts * 5 = 400 watt hours per
day = 50Ah at 12V). If the full capacity of the controller was used, 240 watts
of panels, then it would take only 2.5 hours of direct sunlight (half a day in
real terms in the summer) to fully charge the battery from 50%. With another
100Ah battery in parallel giving a total of 100Ah usable capacity, full charge
from 50% will be achieved in a single day in the summer. In the winter, the
situation changes somewhat, with the average peak sun down to 1 hour per day.
This means only 80 watt hours can be stored in the winter with the existing
set-up, leading to a charge rate of 7.5 days… somewhat useless! With the maximum
capacity of 240 watts, 240 watt hours can be stored on the average winter day,
(equivalent to 20Ah at 12V), charging the 100Ah battery from 50% discharge in 2
and a half days.
Clearly, even with the uprated solar panels, the split charge system will need
be used during the winter. However, even with a low output, the panels will
serve to ‘top up’ the battery, and extend its life in between charges from the
engine.
Estimation of use (with 240 watt panels)
An average day/night, 24 hour period in the summer:
Output:
• 2 hours TV + media player = 90 watt hours (7.5Ah)
• Fridge operating for 24 hours = 480 watt hours (40Ah)
• LED lights for 2 hours in evening = 21.6 watt hours (1.8Ah)
(Heater not required during summer)
Input:
• Solar panels = 1200 watts
• Split charge? (limited only by fuel)
Net result:
1200 – 90 – 480 – 21.6 = 608.4 watt hours excess charge in the summer = 50.7 Ah
at 12V
An average day/night 24 period in the winter:
Output
• 4 hours TV +media player (anticipating bad weather) = 180 watt hours (15Ah)
• Fridge operating for 24 hours = 480 watt hours (40Ah)
• Heater operating for 5 hours = 100 watt hours (8.33Ah)
Input:
• Solar panels = 240 watt hours (20Ah)
Net result:
240 – 180 – 480 – 100 = -520 watt hour deficit in the winter = -43.3 Ah at 12V
The end result is that during the depths of winter, the average 100Ah battery
will only last just over 1 day if keeping to the 50% discharge rule. This is of
course assuming a particularly heavy use of the heater and TV, but this is a
worst case scenario.
In both cases, the fridge can be seen to be the main consumer of electricity.
Thus, if during the winter, (when the weather is inevitably significantly colder
anyway) the fridge is turned down, or even off, the situation changes
remarkably:
Output
• 4 hours TV +media player (anticipating bad weather) = 180 watt hours (15Ah)
• Heater operating for 5 hours = 100 watt hours (8.33Ah)
Input:
• Solar panels = 240 watt hours (20Ah)
240 – 180 – 100 = -40 watt hour deficit in the winter = -3.3 Ah at 12V
Thus, hopefully, even in winter, the van should be self sustaining in terms of
electricity. This means I should be able to drive somewhere, park up, and be
able to enjoy peace and quiet without a hookup for indefinite periods of time,
even without running the engine to charge the batteries.
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Nevadal Discussion starter
191 posts · Joined 2010
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#20 · Nov 10, 2011
I reglued the roof insulation today, taking into account the fact that the
bubbly sheet isn't stretchy at all and thus can't go right into the corners of
the ribs that give the roof stiffness.
This is the roof before:
And after:
I sliced the sheet where it wasn't fully bonded to the roof, and applied more
contact adhesive underneath - then used aluminium foil to join the gap.
I have been cutting away a the untidy holes left by the racking in the back for
a while, and finally managed to weld in some steel plates in the gaps left
today. Took a bit of fabricating, but each one eventually got a plate that
fitted pretty well before the welder came out:
This means that when I carpet over it all there won't be any bumps or holes to
poke through!
I also insulated the rear part of the roof, the only bit that wasn't done. It
was a little more complicated because of the small hinging windows, but not too
bad. This is the first draft:
Then after trimming a little:
This is the insulation I'm planning on using in the roof, space blanket stuff
that is fibrous inside, but inside an aluminium foil bag so none of the fibres
can get out or let moisture in. (There are some small holes to allow the layers
to become compressed when you fit it but I don't expect it to be a problem)
Unfortunately when I took the rear quarter window out today, I found some pretty
bad rust... I was dreading this part as I have been watching the rust bubble up
around the edges for 6 months or so now! I'm assuming the person that put the
windows in didn't seal the cut edges very well, and once the rust started there
wasn't any stopping it!
The only thing in my favour is that the rust doesn't really extend beyond the
level to which you would cut the window for a bonded fitting, so I think I will
cut away the rust, then bond one in. This is the plan for the other windows too,
as there is rust around them as well.
All part of raising an old bus from the dead!
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jason k
552 posts · Joined 2010
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#21 · Nov 10, 2011
good work fella, keep it up.
the rust dont look too bad on the window frame.
as you say its all part of ressurecting a bus
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Nevadal Discussion starter
191 posts · Joined 2010
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#22 · Nov 10, 2011
Nice to hear someone else say that! Cheers!
Another couple of photos:
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#23 · Nov 12, 2011
Didn't get much done on the windows today, but primered the rest of the floor
that has been covered in tools for a while now. The plan is to cover the floor
in the old carpet for when I'm working in the van to stop scratching the new
painted surface...
This is the left side that used to have plastic grilles in it for the gas fridge
that has since been replaced and relocated with an electric one (sitting in my
room ready to go in...)
And managed to flashband one of the rear arches, once warm it's super bendy
stuff, and sticks pretty well! Going to double layer both of the wheel arches as
per many other people on the site for sound insulation. Also fills in some of
the dents pretty well!
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Nevadal Discussion starter
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#24 · Nov 13, 2011
Got a little more done on the painting front today, all the floor is now done
with at least 2 coats, although it will be given another one when everything is
taken out just prior to the ply being laid.
There's a couple more coats need on the one side, can still see some of the
primer.
Outside, I got the rear quarter corner painted, as it was looking a little rusty
on the surface. This is all hidden under the bumper, but will be covered in the
2K paint when that eventually needs to be done.
There are these odd deadbolt type things in both front doors - a poorly
fibreglassed hole popped out the other day (might have persuaded it slightly)
and revealed its existence...
On the inside edge of the door:
Not sure whether to remove these entirely and weld up, or to use them as
additional security if I can find parts for them?
On another note, it doesn't take long before a static vehicle looks like it's
been dead for years! This is after 2 weeks of being off the road...
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pedropony
283 posts · Joined 2010
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#25 · Nov 15, 2011
Inspiring stuff mate! Really good reading. I wish I had the time around work and
kids to put in as much effort as you but just don't!
Best of luck with the end result T:
Pedro
People that snore always fall asleep first..
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andyb7
204 posts · Joined 2011
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#26 · Nov 15, 2011
A picture tells a story of a thousand words
Keep em coming!! Top job T:
you aint dubbin if you aint rubbin:ILU:
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