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WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 12, 2018


MISS LOTTA BUNDLES UP: OTTOBRE 05/2018 -- AUTUMN WARMER CARDIGAN




Good morning, kittens! I'm taking a break from Kibbe ruminations today to share
my latest project, the Autumn Warmer sweater from the latest issue (05/2018) of
Ottobre Woman. This was the last project I cut out before tumbling into wardrobe
revamp plans, but it actually aligns nicely with some of my forthcoming style
changes. 


Over the past few years, I've increasingly turned to sewing magazines for both
inspiration and patterns. It began with Knipmode, when they expanded their
sizing to a European 54 on every pattern published, and has continued with
Burda, as they've improved their plus size (EU 44-52) collections. Every time I
review a pattern from those magazines, however, someone always comments with how
much they love Ottobre Design. The Finnish family-owned magazine mixes what I
like about the other two publications--they have an English version (Knipmode
doesn't) and they publish every pattern in every size, up to a EU 52 (Burda
doesn't)--then adds a modern, practical design aesthetic on top of it. This
fall, I finally gave in and purchased a subscription to Ottobre Woman. 








Y'all, I'm so glad I made that decision! This issue has quite a few patterns
that caught my eye, from the elegant pegged pants to that simple surplice dress,
and one that I absolutely loved. Their cover pattern, the Autumn Warmer
cardigan, rocketed up my to-sew list. The hood/shawl collar combination is such
an interesting design feature, elevating the pattern from just another sweater
to something I desperately needed in my closet. 


I wasn't alone. My fellow Curvy Sewing Collective editors, Michelle and Megan,
also fell hard for this pattern and we all agreed to make it for a "Same
Pattern, Different Bodies" post on the CSC. Even better, right after we
committed to this plan, winter arrived early in Texas. Our first freeze this
year was in October and it's been cold front after cold front ever since. We
actually have snow chances in our forecast, later this week! In Central Texas!
This is definitely the year for all those cozy, snuggly projects that I usually
put off.








I ordered a few sweater knit options from Mood, then settled on this gorgeous
red bamboo French Terry as my first version. Let's be honest, the moment I see a
hood in my future, my thoughts drift to Little Red Riding Hood and red is a
foregone conclusion. Fairytale archetypes live large in my fashion
sensibilities, it seems. Now that I've made it up, I don't think this was the
right fabric choice. While it's a gorgeous terry, it's also a bit too much of a
classic sweatshirting for this project, bagging out with wear. A sweater knit
with better recovery is an ideal choice for this draping silhouette. Not all
sweater knits are created equal and terry really is better suited to something
boxier, like a Linden Sweatshirt.


I also made a mistake in choosing my size. Having never sewn with Ottobre
before, I erred on the side of caution and made this up based on my full bust
measurement, which puts me in a size 50. Like with Burda, however, I would've
been better suited to a 48. I had to take in the shoulders considerably, the
sleeves are much too baggy, and the whole thing just feels big. If I don't pay
attention to how it's laying, the sweater shifts around and looks messy, because
there's too much excess fabric. With this combination of fabric and the wrong
size, this sweater can easily look too messy, which is a shame because with
other choices it would be gorgeous. 


This is actually a problem I always have with sewn sweaters. I've had legions of
failed sweater projects that haven't made this blog, y'all. I never go with my
instincts and size down, then am disappointed with the baggy, saggy, shapeless
results. A few years back, I made a Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater that almost
sent me over the edge with sizing rage. Finding the perfect combination of
pattern and appropriate fabric is key to a wearable sweater, but it's a balance
I rarely find. This sweater is actually pretty close to ideal, when compared to
those past failures. 



Red Riding Hood or...Handmaiden? It's a close call. 

All that being said, this sweater is not only wearable, but beloved despite its
problems. There's something about the brightness of this color and the way the
hood opens up into that wide shawl collar that I adore. One of Kibbe's
recommendations for Soft Dramatics is a large open neckline like this and it's
easy to see why. The proportions of that collar are rocking my world and
reiterating how desperately I need to sew up the Butterick 6604 coat.



Additionally, this terry is cozy AF. Throwing this sweater on over jeans and
simple blouse looks dramatic and daring, but feels like I'm wearing a bathrobe
out into the world. It's not nearly as warm as a merino wool version would be,
but perfect for the crisp, blustery days we keep having here. 













Let's quickly talk construction, shall we? For a magazine pattern, this was a
joy to assemble. Ottobre's pattern sheets are less cluttered than their
competitors and it was easy to find my pattern pieces and size. Twenty minutes
later, thanks to the dynamic duo of bee paper and a double tracing wheel, I had
a traced off a pattern with seam allowances. (Seriously, get a double tracing
wheel if you trace off patterns! It makes adding seam allowances to magazine
patterns infinitely easier. That, or  use my shoddy, but reliable method: tape
two classic Sharpies together for a perfect 1/2" seam allowance.)


Like most knit patterns, this was a really quick, easy pattern to make up. I
used my sewing machine (a Janome Magnolia 7330) to do all the seams and hems,
deploying a lightning bolt stitch on the seams and a decorative stretch stitch
on the hems. The neckline and shoulders are reinforced with clear elastic, to
keep them from stretching out, and the bottom hem is stabilized with wonder
tape. My only complaint about the construction is that, because the hood is part
of the collar itself, cleanly finishing the neckline is a challenge. There's a
pivot from the shoulder line to the back collar that I needed to redo three
times, before I got it right. Baste it first, then sew a stretch stitch once
you're happy with how it lays. 





All in all, this pattern was a moderately successful introduction into Ottobre,
and one that I'll make again before the season is out. With the right
fabric--ideally a drapey wool knit with springy recovery--this can be such a
chic, unexpected twist on the classic hooded sweatshirt. For me, this was also a
nice entree into Kibbe's recommendations for my body type. If I ever doubted my
ability to pull off bold color and large details, this sweater would quiet those
doubts. 


Next up, I'm taking on a dress for the holidays! If you're interested in the
Autumn Warmer pattern, be sure to check out Megan and Michelle's great versions
over at the CSC blog. I always find it enlightening to see different sewists try
the same pattern and share their thoughts. 


Currently reading: The Christmas Sisters by Sarah Morgan


Note: Any Amazon links on this or other posts are affiliate links. 

Posted by Mary Danielson at 11:17 AM 3 Comments

Labels: Autumn Warmer , Ottobre Magazine , Sewing , Sweater





TUESDAY, DECEMBER 4, 2018


SEWING KIBBE: PLANNING A SOFT DRAMATIC WINTER WARDROBE


Good morning, my dear marmosets! Last week, I posted about the Kibbe System and
my incipient plans to overhaul my wardrobe. Your interest in this process--and
the fact that anyone still reads my sadly neglected blog--took me by surprise.
I'm not alone in this rabbit hole, it seems!

Today, I thought we'd go further into the actual nuts and bolts of my plans.
While Kibbe is a deeply flawed system, it's also a useful jumping off point for
these changes. Shifting my lens--thinking about my body in terms of bone
structure and softness, not just measurements--is altering how I think about
clothing. A lot of the suggestions need to be taken with a grain of salt,
whether because of impracticality or a decidedly 1980's sensibility, but others
are proving pretty insightful.

According to Kibbe, I'm a "Soft Dramatic." He goes into the concepts of Yin/Yang
and starts getting florid in his descriptors, but that's all a bit saccharine
for me. It just means I have a large, angular bone structure with voluptuous
curves on top of it. Think Christina Hendricks, Tyra Banks, or Sophia Loren, for
platonic archetypes of this category. Tall, curvy, and extravagantly formed in
every way possible.

The rule of thumb for dressing such a body is that the clothes should be
proportionate to that feminine drama. Delicate details look fussy or mumsy (a
problem I often have!), while overly tailored pieces look too stiff or prim.
Fabrics should be soft and draping, silhouettes should have strong vertical
lines and large, feminine design features.

Key Points of Soft Dramatic:

 * Long lines
 * Ornate feminine details
 * Strong shoulders 
 * Draped silhouettes,
 * Open or dramatic necklines
 * Avoid: fussy details, small details, overly tailored and simple garments,
   small prints, the look of separates, stiff or hard fabrics, wide shapeless
   silhouettes 

All of that sounds gorgeous, but it can also get absurd really quickly, which we
need to acknowledge. According to Kibbe, following these guidelines to a tee
would mean I walked around looking something like this: 





While this is my favorite dress of all time (an off-the-rack Tadashi Shoji, worn
for a fancy awards ceremony), such gowns are not great for running after a
toddler, working at a computer, or doing anything other than standing around and
looking pretty. Impracticality is a true risk of my particular Kibbe type. The
trick is to balance such exalted recommendations with how a real
thirty-something human lives her life. I'm intentionally adding draped designs,
vertical lines, soft fabrics, and large, feminine details to my wardrobe,
just...not necessarily all in the same garment. 


Based on the needs of my drastically reduced closet, I've picked up quite a few
new patterns to make over the coming months. When the weather warms up, I'll
need to reassess again, but this plan gives me a chance to experiment with new
silhouettes while still making pieces I need right now. 

McCall's 7429
Purpose: Anniversary Date


Later this month, Sam and I will celebrate our 5th wedding anniversary! I cannot
believe it's been that long, y'all. It somehow feels like we've been married
both forever and for no time at all. Time is a funny thing. 


Since our anniversary falls so close to Christmas, we're always visiting my
parents in Austin at the time. Not only does this guarantee childcare (Yay for
wonderful grandparents!), but it allows us to get dressed up and have a truly
fancy dinner date. This year, I'm making McCall's 7429 for the occasion. A knit
knot-waisted dress that fits so many of my new requirements--slinky fabrics,
draping, and a cohesive look--this pattern is begging to be made up in stretch
velvet. 





McCall's 7801
Purpose: Holiday Parties


In addition to our anniversary, there are also a whole slew of holiday events
happening this month. My initial plan was to make McCall's 7801 before any of
them began, but I encountered some bumps with the bodice of this pattern. Even
though it has cup sized pieces, this pattern wasn't drafted for the bustier
among us, when it comes to neckline proportions. To fix it, I'm going to sew
View C, but substitute a Burda woven wrap bodice that I already know works well.
The ruffles may be a smidge undersized for Kibbe's recommendations, but I think
the draped skirt and those feminine details still win out. 






McCall's 7534
Purpose: Day Dress


For everyday wear, I'm planning a few long-sleeved versions of McCall's 7534, a
mock wrap dress with a shawl collar and extended shoulders. This hits Kibbe's
recommendations on almost every level--strong shoulders, softly draping fabrics,
long vertical lines--while still being practical for my normal day-to-day life.
I have a couple of pretty rayon crepes in my stash that are going to be killer
with this pattern! 







Burda 6391
Purpose: Casual Top


And now for something completely different. Burda 6391, a artfully ruched knit
top, is one of those patterns that I never would've made a few years ago, but I
absolutely love now. That draping knit bodice! Those gorgeous swishy sleeves!
Everything about View B screams Soft Dramatic, but also gives me low key Stevie
Nicks vibes, so...you know it's at the top of my list. 









Cashmerette Dartmouth Top
Purpose: Casual Top


There aren't many indie patterns that fit the Soft Dramatic recommendations.
Many seem to be designed for people who look great in boxy, simple shapes or
more casual, laid-back silhouettes. As we've discussed, I've never done casual
terribly well. One lovely exception to this indie drought is the Cashmerette
Dartmouth Top, a surplice wrap top that has a gorgeous deep v-neck and ruched
side seams. Made up in a cozy sweater knit, this is exactly the sort of top I
want these days. 





Burda Off the Shoulder Sweater
Purpose: Casual Sweater


Spoiler alert: I've already made this Burda sweater. With the giant cowl neck
and ability to become an off-the-shoulder neckline, this fits all of Kibbe's
recommendations and channels my love of somewhat ridiculous sweater silhouettes.
I love an oversized cowl. Making this was a no-brainer, but making it a cream
colored wool knit was perhaps a bit dim. I spilled spaghetti sauce on it, first
thing, and needed to have it cleaned, before taking photos. 







Style Arc Nina Cardigan
Purpose: Casual Sweater


I actually made the Nina Cardigan years ago and it's one of the most worn items
in my closet. The graceful, but dramatic, waterfall has always suited me and I'd
really like a few more of these in other colors. Thrown over skinny jeans and a
camisole, it's an elevated look for running errands or dropping Louisa off at
nursery school. The waist cinching of the Nina separates it from other waterfall
cardigan patterns, giving it just enough extra shaping to avoid looking boxy. 



Butterick 6604
Purpose: Everyday Coat 


Finally, the grandest of my plans! I always want to make a winter coat, but look
up to discover it's mid-February and I still haven't decided on a pattern yet.
Not this year. Come January 2nd, with the holiday hubbub behind us, I'm cutting
into Butterick 6604. View C, with its large collar and flared sleeves, is
exactly what I want in a coat, while also having easy-to-fit princess seams.
I've got all my supplies prepped and can't wait to start this "someday"
project. 


What do you think of my winter sewing plans, friends? Do you have a list of
projects waiting to be made this season, or are you focusing on a few special
pieces? I'm really excited about trying new shapes and details, thankful for
Doctor T's Kibbe series for sparking such creative motivation.

Currently reading: Becoming by Michelle Obama 

Posted by Mary Danielson at 10:53 AM 18 Comments

Labels: Kibbe , Wardrobe Planning





MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2018


SEWING KIBBE: ON STYLE CHANGES, STYLE RULES, AND THE GREAT CARDIGAN
EXTERMINATION


Good evening, kittens!

Tonight, I don't want to share my latest project (which is good, because it's a
white sweater that I promptly spilled spaghetti sauce on), but instead take a
deep dive into personal style and the philosophy of dress.  This is going to be
long post, so you may want to get a cup of tea. It's also going to be:
self-indulgent, extremely nerdy, and possibly include a bit of navel gazing.
Since this is my blog and my personal style crisis, however, I'm going with it.
Consider yourselves warned. It would be understandable, if you chose to watch a
Hallmark Christmas movie, instead.

Are you braced? Do you have tea? Good.

Let's talk Kibbe, friends.

Or, rather, David Kibbe's Metamorphosis System. The Kibbe "System" is a rather
obscure set of personal style rules from the 1980's, which is having a small
renaissance on YouTube and wardrobe planning forums across the internet. It was
brought to my attention by the lovely Gillian, of Crafting a Rainbow, who
recently went down this rabbit hole herself. Style systems normally drive me
crazy. People love telling women what we can't wear, or what would be more
flattering on us. As soon as someone tells me what I should wear, my mind starts
wandering to explosive devices and creative ways to burn civilization to the
ground.





Kibbe's method, however, struck a chord with me. Instead of lumping all women
into silly fruit-shaped categories--apple shapes, pear shapes, kumquat
shapes--or treating plus size women as if they're all built exactly the same, he
instead based his guidelines on how humans are actually built. His system mixes
bone structure (what he calls Yin) and overall softness/musculature (called
Yang, unsurprisingly) to make its recommendations. While the chosen nomenclature
makes me shudder, I appreciate the nuance and thoughtfulness in the method. Even
more, it's based on a positive framework. Kibbe doesn't tell you to hide body
parts, or try to be thinner, but instead stresses the beauty of each woman's
unique shape. He has 13 style identities, or archetypes, based on subtle
differences in how women are fundamentally built.

Now, let's take an interlude here. Some notes:


 1. I'm not going to go into all 13 archetypes or their differences. There are
    already some great resources on that. In the sewing community specifically,
    Doctor T Designs is going archetype by archetype and giving descriptions of
    each, plus sewing patterns that fit each type. Her introductory post has all
    you need to know, including wonderful links to resources and ways to find
    your own type. Her archetype posts are thorough, well-researched, and
    fascinating. You should definitely follow her series, if you're at all
    interested in such things! 
 2. That being said, there are YouTube Videos on this. To learn more about the
    types, Aly Art has a video series and test to find your type. 
 3. You may not neatly fit into a Kibbe Type. One of my best friends does, while
    we couldn't clearly pin another down at all. It's an imperfect taxonomy. 
 4. This system is problematic. Obviously. All style systems are problematic.
    Just because Kibbe is of interest to me right now, doesn't mean I don't take
    issue with society telling women how to dress or even that we have to dress
    up at all. It's all made up nonsense that has its roots in morality,
    modesty, and gender role shenanigans. That being said, I like clothes. I
    like thinking about how I present to the world. I was in a bit of a style
    conundrum (more on that in a moment) and this is giving me a new framework
    to process fashion through. That doesn't mean that it's gospel or that it
    doesn't have a lot of issues. 
 5. When you Google Kibbe, you may stumble into weird parts of the internet.
    There are a few vocal anti-feminists on Reddit who have taken Kibbe up as
    their personal bible on how to be women, which makes for upsetting reading.
    Such things have nothing to do with David Kibbe himself, from what I've
    found, and just prove that the internet can ruin anything. 
 6. Wear whatever you like. Period. All style "rules" should be taken with a
    grain of salt, or outright broken. Wear what makes you feel the best,
    whether that's yoga pants or ball gowns. 

Right. Now that the fine print is out of the way, let's dive in!

Based on the Kibbe types, I am a Soft Dramatic, which is shorthand for saying I
have a voluptuous figure on a large, angular skeletal system. I am tall and big
boned, with large facial features, dramatic curves, and no hint of small, dainty
delicacy. This really shouldn't have surprised me. My whole life, I have longed
to be dainty, but am anything but. Sure, I wanted to be Kristen Bell, but
Christina Hendricks is clearly my true style spirit guide. 






If you've read this blog for awhile, you'll know the above photo is not my
historical look. For every wiggle dress I've sewn, there are a dozen more poofy,
floofy confections. My twenties were swathed in Liberty prints, bedecked in
fit-and-flare silhouettes. Ladylike, twee, and delicate were descriptors I
gleefully deployed into my wardrobe.



Over the last few years, however, such garments stopped working for me. Many of
the clothes I've made in the past--pieces I've loved and worn to death--no
longer feel like me. Nowadays, I put on a fit-and-flare dress with a cardigan,
then immediately take it off in a huff. Matronly, my mind whispers. Dowdy, it
insists. Objectively, they're still beautiful clothes, but I don't want to wear
them. They no longer suit my body or my psyche. It has nothing to do with age,
really. There are women in the sewing community who wear such pieces well into
later decades and look sensational doing it. They look like Dita Von Teese in
the same garments that increasingly make me look like a schoolmarm. 



All of these dresses were well loved, worn like crazy, and will soon be made
into toddler clothes!



Reading up on Kibbe's system felt like a revelation. Of course, I don't feel
comfortable in such things anymore. They're not designed with someone of my
proportions in mind. Soft Dramatics need long, draped lines, bold feminine
accents, and rich use of color. In other words, drama. My inner style maven has
been telling me this for awhile, but I've refused to listen, clinging to the
pretty and dainty and sweet. Heck, even my most recent post on Idle Fancy was
about yet another ladylike floral dress. I loved it in theory, wore like crazy
for a few months, but it never felt quite right. 


That's the crux of it, really. It would be one thing if I felt good in such
clothes. Who cares what some random style guru says, if you like the way you
look? I typically don't give a fig for supposed rules. But, it's time for a
change. A few years past time, honestly. 


So, I'm starting over. 


With Kibbe's loose recommendations and my own evolving tastes as a guide, I'm
going to start taking a more analytical approach to sewing. Instead of making
what I've historically gravitated toward, I'm going to try a few pieces outside
of that comfort area. Bolder colors, more dramatic silhouettes. This might be a
bit tricky, since I also need to balance living in a fairly casual city and
chasing after a toddler. Casual has never really been my preferred aesthetic
anyway, though, so maybe it's time to let that go as well. 


This week, I'm doing a thorough closet clean out. I've already locally donated
or consigned most of my unwanted ready-to-wear clothes, including a mind
boggling 20+ cardigans, but the thought of getting rid of handmade items has
been agonizing. Since most of the fabrics are still in good condition, I'm going
to box them up and remake them into clothes for Louisa instead. That plan
assuages my guilt, but gets them out out out of my closet. I can't handle
staring at them any longer! 


In my next post, I'll share some of the patterns I'm going to sew next and go in
depth on silhouette and proportion. I know that wardrobe overhauls and style
systems bore some people--including me--to tears, but I'm really enjoying
looking at clothing in this way. Applying actual analysis and thought to sewing
fills me with a creative motivation that's long been absent in my daily routine
of getting dressed. Have you gone through a major style revamp? What sparked the
way you currently look at clothing and your own style? As sewists, we all love
clothing and getting dressed. I'd love to know what goes through your head, when
choosing what to make and wear next. 


Currently reading: The Proposal by Jasmine Guillory 


Note: Any Amazon links on this post and other posts are affiliate links. If you
click through and buy something, I get a small percentage of the sale. 

Posted by Mary Danielson at 9:34 PM 34 Comments

Labels: Kibbe , Wardrobe Planning





WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2018


MISS MARGUERITE BLOWS OUT THE CANDLES: SEW OVER IT MARGUERITE DRESS







Good afternoon, kittens! 


This past weekend, I turned 33, a delightfully palindromic age that required
quite a bit of celebration. There was Black Forest Cake, a bird-festooned pink
birthday crown, lots of family togetherness, and--of course--a brand new dress.
This year, I decided to try the Sew Over It Marguerite Dress, one of the newest
patterns from the prolific British pattern company. 


I own two other Sew Over It patterns, but fizzled out after making muslins.
Their pattern block is drafted for someone with radically different proportions
than my own, so it's easier to draft a garment myself or find a similar pattern.
While I love their designs, they're not ideal for tall, busty women. I need
darts and extra length and wearing ease! 


The Marguerite Dress, however, was too pretty to pass up. It features a fitted
waistband with a gathered bodice, full gathered skirt, and dolman sleeves. While
it's designed for woven fabrics, I own a ready-to-wear dress that is almost
identical and made of a stable ponte knit. I've meant to knock off that dress
for years, so it seemed like a great birthday project. 






How does one take a woven pattern and make it suitable for knits? Knits don't
need much, if any, wearing ease, which necessitates a few simple changes. A good
rule of thumb is to size down at least one size, remove any closures, and use
construction techniques you already love from other knit patterns. To alter the
Marguerite Dress, I traced off the pattern and made some fairly simple
alterations: 



 1. Sized down. For a woven, by my measurements, I should have used the UK 20/US
    16 size. Instead, I traced off a blend of UK16 (at the shoulders and waist)
    and UK18 (at the hips). 
 2. Eliminated the back zipper. I took the seam allowance out of the back
    pieces, then cut them on the fold, to get rid of the closure all together.
    (For this version of the dress, I almost ran out of fabric, so actually had
    to seam the back bodice anyway.)
 3. Rotated out the dart. This is one of the few SOI patterns where there
    actually is a dart in the bodice side seam. The one time I don't want one!
    To get rid of it, I rotated the dart into the bodice gathers and made the
    gathering a wider section. 
 4. Full Bust Adjustment. I lengthened the center front of the bodice an inch
    and did a cheater's FBA for a knit bodice. 
 5. Bound the edges. Instead of using the included facings and cuffs, I bound
    the armscyes and necklines. My usual method for making bindings is to
    measure the opening, then cut a strip 15% smaller. This worked well for the
    neckline, but I wanted to leave the sleeve shape, so I cut those using the
    same measurement as the original armscye length. 
 6. Added clear elastic. There is clear elastic in the shoulder seams and both
    waistband seams of this dress, so that it doesn't bag out over time. The
    waistband elastic is covered on the inside by a facing, so that it doesn't
    irritate my skin. Strictly speaking, you could also face the waistband in a
    very stable knit, to prevent bagging out, if you hate elastic.
 7. Lengthened skirt. Even with a knit, I'm still too tall for this pattern! To
    that end, I lengthened the skirt by two inches. 

Aside from the structural pattern changes, switching the pattern to a knit made
construction much, much easier. I sewed everything with either my serger (for
major seams) or a lightning bolt stitch (for fiddly bits), then finished the
skirt hem with a twin needle. Poof! A chic knit dress in less than three hours.














The fabric for this dress is the real star, despite all the focus I've put on
the pattern. This is a gorgeous floral cotton jersey that was given to me by the
generous and lovely Susan of Moon Thirty, a few years ago. We met up at Chuy's,
ate our weight in Tex Mex, and talked endlessly about sewing and blogging and
general creativity. Since then, I've hoarded this fabric, waiting for the right
pattern to come along. Of all the pieces I own, this fabric is one of the most
"me" prints in my entire stash. It's the pretty--but not dowdy-- dark
background, richly colored modern floral print of my dreams. It's all the more
special knowing that it came from one of my favorite sewing friends. 


In the end, I was inordinately pleased with how well the fabric matched with my
knit-friendly Marguerite pattern. The jersey has a really nice stretch, so the
dress looks fancy and ultra-femme, but feels like yoga pants. Since having a
baby, I value stretch in my garments 100 times more. It's not only the ability
to move freely, but the actual comfort of it. I haven't been able to abide tight
waistbands, since having Louisa. Anything constricting drives me mad, thus
rendering many of my old projects unwearable. This dress, though, blends both my
aesthetic love of floofy femininity and my newfound need for comfort. Joy! 


This Marguerite was such a success that I've already made another one and cut
out two further. We're going to languish in summertime for a few months longer,
so sensible, comfy dresses will get plenty of wear before sweater season starts.
Even then, I think these would layer up well with booties and a cropped
cardigan! 


What are you sewing during these transitional months, friends? Do you have any
patterns that work even better in a knit than a woven?








Currently Reading: My Oxford Year by Julia Whelan
Currently Listening: Dressed Podcast (Specifically, the recent interview with
Dr. Colleen Darnell, Egyptologist and vintage fashion enthusiast.)


Note: Any Amazon links on this post and other posts are affiliate links. If you
click through and buy something, I get a small percentage of the sale. 


Posted by Mary Danielson at 11:31 PM 11 Comments

Labels: Dresses , Knit Fabrics , Sew Over It , Sew Over It Marguerite Dress





TUESDAY, JULY 31, 2018


MISS BABETTE AND THE ROSE IMPOSTERS: BURDA 07/2016 #124








Good afternoon, kittens! Somehow, it's been a year since I last blogged. 


Well, I say somehow. We all know the actual how of it, don't we? A wee bouncing
bundle of joy who just turned 10 months old. If you follow me on Instagram,
you've met her already, but to quickly catch everyone up to speed: 

 * We had a baby. 
 * Her name is Louisa and she is the most adorable creature who's ever existed. 
 * She is also shockingly high maintenance, because it turns out humans are born
   without any survival skills whatsoever. Who knew how many times a day I'd
   have to prevent such a charming, brilliant child from eating dog hair? I
   certainly didn't.

Thus, no blogging. Like many before me, keeping a child alive took precedence
over blogging. We've also been renovating our house, traveling, and working like
crazy. It has been a year, y'all. A happy, tiring, glorious mess of a year. 







More recently, this summer, I also signed on to be part of a Burdastyle program
that connects bloggers with the magazine. (They're calling us influencers, which
I can't say about myself with a straight face, though I know it's the accepted
parlance nowadays.) Despite subscribing to Burda for a few years now, the issues
sat mostly untouched on my bookshelves, serving as gorgeous inspiration but
rarely anything else. There are so many of their patterns I've been meaning to
make for eons, that signing on to make one a month seemed like a good way to
work through that list. Ostensibly, I'm getting a free pattern a month, but...I
do already own the last two years (plus a few) of back issues. I'm aiming to
check some projects off my list and provide a bit more lived experience for
anyone interested in Burda's plus size lines. 


That's all to say: Look! I made a thing! 







This is Blouse #124 from the July 2016 issue of BurdaStyle. This entire
collection, the Closet Swap, counts as something that I've wanted to make. 2016
was the year that, in my opinion, Burda began to really up its game with plus
size patterns. Suddenly, they were some of the cutest patterns in the whole
magazine. This woven wrap blouse, with its close-fitting silhouette and cute cap
sleeves, is a great example of that new direction. 


I love wrapped silhouettes, especially in woven fabrics, but they're hard to
find drafted specifically for plus sizes. The number of wonky, poorly sized
bodices I've wrestled with, trying to nail this silhouette, boggles my mind.
More boggling still, is how few modifications I made to this pattern. A narrow
shoulder adjustment, a small FBA. 


That. Is. It. 





Before I go into raptures over the finished result, let's talk about the
process. I already owned the July 2016 issue of BurdaStyle and had previously
traced this pattern off, though in a size bigger than my current measurements.
For this blouse, I retraced the pattern in a size 48, using a double tracing
wheel and bee paper. 


Why the double tracing wheel? All digital and magazine Burda patterns, as with
most other sewing magazines, do not include seam allowances. Many sewists prefer
this, as it makes the patterns easier to adjust and lets you add your own
preferred seam allowance width. For Americans especially, used to envelope
patterns and Indie PDFs, this can be a little difficult to navigate at first.
(It was for me!) Honestly, it's no big deal and doesn't add any time, as long as
you know about it going in and pick a good option to deal with it. A double
tracing wheel is super effective, but my other quick-and-dirty method for
tracing is to use two classic sharpies taped together. Voila! Instant 1/2" seam
allowance. 


Tracing from the magazine really isn't that much of a headache either, as the
lines are easy to see and reasonably spaced apart. I highlight the size I need,
throw the bee paper over it, then trace away! If that sounds dreadful though,
Burda does offer all of its patterns in PDF form. I find tracing from a magazine
quicker than taping together a PDF, but everyone's preferences are different. 





Constructing this pattern was just challenging enough to keep things
interesting. The wrap bodice is finished with a neckline facing, which is top
stitched in place to look like a separate band, while a self-facing on the skirt
portion finishes the outside edge. Burda's directions are sparser than the usual
Big 4 pattern, but this pattern magic was still easy enough to navigate.


I did sub out the armscye facings for simple bias tape, because armscye facings
are evil and should be vanquished. They are temperamental, require much more
finesse, and provide the same finish as bias tape. Why would anyone suffer
through them? If you're not doing a couture or vintage finish on a garment, make
some bias tape from your leftover fabric and life will be easier. 


The fabric used for this blouse looks like Liberty of London Carline, but...it's
actually the knock-off Carline print that Gertie did for JoAnn Fabrics. It's a
lightweight clipped dot cotton lawn and, while not nearly as luxe as the
original, it's still beautiful and easy to work with. When I bought this fabric,
Carline was fully discontinued, but Liberty has since brought it back in all
colorways. That means I can stop hoarding the real stuff in my stash, right?
While I've outgrown a lot of my style loves from the past 10 years, this fabric
remains one of my favorite prints of all time. It's such a chic, timeless take
on florals. 





Y'all, I feel a little swoony over this pattern. What took me so long to make
this blouse? It is exactly what I've been looking for in a woven wrap. It fits
well, doesn't have oodles of weird bust wrinkles, and makes my usual jeans and
ballet flats infinitely chicer. I may need 100 more of these in my closet. I
especially love the little cap sleeves, which keep the top breezy, but elevate
the style another notch.


Though I'm usually a commitment phobic sewist, this blouse makes me excited
about signing on to the Burda program. If their plus size block can produce a
reliably well-fitting wrap, something so many other patterns failed to do, what
else can it achieve? Next up, I'm trying a pair of jersey pants, so I'll keep
you posted on how the experiment continues. 


Note: This post contains affiliate links to Amazon, which is something I'm
trying out, since I link to them so often. If you purchase through those links,
I will get a small referral percentage from the sale. The Burda links do not
make any money and the pattern was one I already owned, though it was offered
for free. 

Posted by Mary Danielson at 1:19 PM 21 Comments

Labels: Blouses , Burda , Burdastyle , Wrap Top





SUNDAY, JULY 16, 2017


CASHMERETTE CONCORD TEE: MATERNITY PATTERN HACKS


 


Good afternoon, kittens! Life is in full on baby mode at Chez Fancy. Our guest
room is mid-transformation into a nursery, we spent an absurd amount on the
world's safest car seat, and boxes of hand-me-down girl clothes regularly appear
on our doorstep.* 


My sewing is also pretty maternity focused, these days. It seems like overnight
I went from wearing regular jeans to needing gigantic stretchy panels in every
garment. Apparently, that's a thing that happens when you're seven-and-a-half
months pregnant. While many of my current projects can eventually double as
normal clothes, they're ideal for my current (and growing!) body. Even better, I
haven't bought any additional maternity patterns since that first shopping
flurry. Instead, I'm modifying straight size patterns that already fit well. 


Unsurprisingly, Cashmerette patterns top my list of easiest to modify. Both the
Turner Dress and the Concord T-Shirt have been hacked to death for my maternity
whims. So much so that I wrote up two tutorials for BERNINA's We All Sew blog to
share my favorite Concord hacks, a swing top and a classic maternity tee. 


*We have the loveliest group of local friends, many of whom have girls slightly
older than ours. We couldn't be luckier! It's like having a committee of baby
stuff fairy godmothers. 


Cashmerette Concord Swing Top





Of all the non-maternity clothes that I've worn during pregnancy, swing tees
have gotten the most mileage. I love them with jeans, when I'm not pregnant, and
with pretty much every skirt or pair of trousers when I am. They hide a baby
bump well, are super breezy in the Texas heat, and take an hour to whip up. Who
could ask for more?


When the Closet Case Ebony Tee came out, I insta-bought that pattern. The
high-low hem and volume of swing kept me from actually making it up, however. It
was perfect for my non-pregnant swing tee requirements, but not quite right for
my maternity needs. Did I really want to print out and stick together an entire
pattern that would need more fiddling? Absolutely not. I am already gestating a
human. There's no energy to spare for needless hours of PDF assembly.  


Instead, I pulled the Concord T-shirt out and started slashing and spreading. I
wanted the swing to start at the bust, to give some illusion of shape, and
dropped the hemline lower to make up for that growing middle. It's a fairly
quick adjustment and one that's proved invaluable to my maternity wardrobe.
Thank heavens drapey, flowy styles are in fashion right now!





All of my swing tops have been made up in rayon jersey, like this abstract pink
one from Mood. There is no better fabric for hot, humid summers, y'all. Cool,
breathable, and drapey, it makes that suffocating cushion of heat more bearable.
I'm pretty sure that being extra super pregnant through the summer is the
universe's way of giving my mom revenge for my own September-in-Florida
birthday. Swingy rayon tops are a good way to survive now...and the next two
months. 


Obviously, these shirts also double as non-maternity wear. Throw them on with
skinny jeans and a nursing cami, this fall, and I'm both comfortable and pulled
together. Pardon me, while I make a million other versions...


Concord Maternity Tee





In the vein of true maternity wear, I've also whipped up a couple of classic
maternity tees. You know the ones: long hemlines, ruched sides, enough room for
the sentient watermelon attached to your torso. They sell for $25 a pop in
stores, even though they're the simplest garments in the world. I just cannot
bring myself to pay money for such shirts! They're practical and necessary, but
sewing my own seemed much more reasonable. And cost effective. And less likely
to make me resent polyester content in fabric. 


This adjustment may be even easier than the Swing Top hack. All that's needed to
turn your favorite t-shirt pattern into a maternity top is added length to the
front piece, which is then ruched up into the side seams. Voila! A watermelon
pocket! I haven't put on any weight or changed base sizes (I've actually lost a
bit, thanks to intense food aversions. Oh, pregnancy brain, why have you
forsaken bacon?), so no added width at the hips is needed either. For the tunic
length shirt in these photos, I added five inches of extra ruched fabric, plus
another two to the center from hemline. It seems to work pretty well for my
current size, with room to grow, but some bigger ones might be in the works
later on. 




Once again, rayon jersey wins all the awards. This is a striped navy rayon from
Mood, which I've also used for a tank dress that is getting tons of wear. My
solution to maternity wear is basically swathing myself in stretchy fabrics and
calling it a day. Those vintage woven maternity patterns I bought early on may
get zero use, this go around. 






In addition to these basic tees, I've also sewn quite a few dress variations, as
mentioned. The Turner has become everything from a cold shoulder maxi dress to a
slinky, but roomy tent dress for these steamy summer days. If anyone else is
interested, I was actually thinking of turning those hacks (and a few others)
into a series of YouTube tutorials. 


Given how few maternity patterns there actually are, especially as you go up in
size ranges, using patterns I already love has been liberating. Ready-to-wear
maternity garments are notoriously poor quality and the sizing can be so off on
Big 4 maternity patterns (ahem, this Butterick dress) that pattern hacking is
actually a far, far easier route. That's been my experience, anyhow. 


Now, back to the world of nursery set up. We're going to pick out paint, this
afternoon, which is one of my least favorite renovation duties. The variances in
the color yellow boggle my mind, kittens. How many times can one person mutter,
"Hmm. A bit less buttery, a bit more lemony!" without losing her mind? We shall
see. Wish me luck! Thank you again for all the well wishes, on my last post!

Posted by Mary Danielson at 2:39 PM 12 Comments

Labels: bernina , Cashmerette Patterns , concord tee , Maternity Sewing ,
pattern hack , Shirts , we all sew



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