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This is the history of the engagement ring. Not the wedding band. Although some
of the histories definitely intertwined their Eric Deeds often are slightly
misaligned or they overlap among references. So we're focus on the historical
historical relevance. Not necessarily precise dates. We know that current
Traditions differ around the globe. So we do tend to focus on the United States
when discussing more current trends as we move down the timeline and finally, I
don't speak French Italian or Latin, so please forgive any of my
mispronunciations. So let's first discuss how the tradition of the engagement
ring began. Although it is worth noting that the term engagement ring actually
didn't exist until relatively recently in history. They would have considered
this gift more like a token and so it was actually often referred to as a hoop
in earlier times. So when we talk about the invention of the concept some credit
the ancient Egyptians with inventing the engagement ring, they were using things
like braided hemp and reads and hair and then it said, Add that the ancient
Greeks adopted this tradition using things like leather and Bone and ivory but
reliable data really just traces back to the ancient Romans. We have written
accounts and archaeological finds that are evidence of this. So in 200 BCE in
ancient Rome, this is where our Story begins. So at first they were using things
like chains and bracelets, but this eventually evolved into the symbolic Ring
The Ring really signified a business contract. It wasn't romantic. symbolized
obedience is it meant that one was owned? Although some others did believe that
it represented handing over control of the household goods, but we started to
see Metals being used during this time. So things like bronze and copper and
silver and even gold although typically gold was reserved for public officials.
So women tended to wear a very simple band typically made of iron pictured here.
We have a Roman key ring made of iron obviously much more ornate than the
average person would wear And then we can move forward into the second century
BCE. So the Common Era so things are becoming slightly more romantic. It's
started to represent a financial sacrifice that engagement ring was a symbol of
true commitment. But marriage remember was actually a vow of present consent. It
wasn't religious there was Betrothal ceremony it wasn't even legally binding at
this time. But also during this time the bride-to-be was often given to rings.
So there was an iron ring to be worn at home and then perhaps a gold ring to be
worn in public and this was a way for them to show off their affluence. So if
you're looking for an excuse for two rings blame the As we move forward into the
fourth Century, we started to see some inscriptions some elaborate but most were
quite simple and they embellish the inside of the band. So the ornamentation was
really meant to emphasize the symbol of the man's trust with the home. It
certainly wasn't meant to ornament the woman or the wife-to-be. So let's talk
real quick about some historic references of where to wear it and we'll sort
move backwards in history in the 17th century during chore. Word. First of
England's rain it actually wasn't unusual for them to wear the engagement ring
on the thumb because they were so large. We can move even farther back in the
11th century. There's french rituals that dictated it be placed on the right
hand middle finger. We move further back and we have documents of in the 7th
century Christian priests touching the betrothal ring to three fingers stating
in the name of the Father the Son and the Holy Ghost. First and then the priest
would be the one to place it on the wife's finger, but we can go even further
back in the fifth century where Marco be has who was a Roman writer is typically
credited with declaring that the betrothal ring be worn on that fourth finger of
the left hand because it said that's where the Venus Amorous as or that's Latin
for the vein of love. He spoke of this vein, which runs from that particular
finger straight to the heart. He wrote because of this. Irv, the newly betrothed
places the ring on this finger of his spouse as though it were a representation
of the heart this information. He said he derived from an Egyptian priest and
the tradition has endured Through Time, although it's actually based on false
information. There is no specific vein that goes from that finger to the heart
eventually. We know that all of our veins lead to our heart the ring here is a
gold ring that's dated around the fifth century. So as we move forward to the
9th century specifically 850 Pope Nicholas the first stated that the engagement
ring symbolized a man's intent to marry. So Pope Nicholas was asked to explain
the difference between the Roman Catholics and the Eastern Orthodox practices.
And so this was the first written account of the connection of the engagement
ring with the Catholic tradition specifically and this time gold became the
material of choice, although it wasn't Uncommon for the man if he wore a ring to
wear the Gold version and the woman to wear Silver version and the signified the
ranking within the household pictured here.

We have a gold ring that dates around the 9th century. So a reminder up until
now marriage was that simple vow of present consent. It wasn't legally binding
men could and often would not follow through with the formal marriage ceremony.
And this would leave the woman shamed and Sully I'd but at 12th century there
the Christian Church established the betrothal ceremony. So perhaps this was
when that separate engagement ring and wedding band came to be. In the early
13th century specifically 12:15 Pope Innocent. The third stated that marriages
must be made public in advance. So this symbolizes an agreement to marry in the
eyes of God and it really solidified the tradition of a man presenting an
engagement ring for that established period before the ceremony. so historically
It wasn't until 1477 that we have the first record of a diamond in an engagement
ring. Now. This wasn't the first time in in jewelry. Just specifically in an
engagement ring and Archduke Maximilian of Austria is credited with this for
when he proposed to Mary of burgundy. It said that the engagement ring had tiny
diamonds in the shape of an M. Now whether the M stood for Maximilian or Mary, I
don't know but this actually influence those of high social class to start
giving die. Diamond engagement rings, although it did not set the Precedence for
diamond engagement ring that really didn't come until the 1900 s so just a side
note add this time in history, very few diamonds have been discovered. So India
was actually the only source of diamonds and these were alluvial which you can
think of as kind of randomly found diamonds only the wealthiest possess them.
They typically weren't cut. In fact the first polish polished Diamond wasn't
until the late. Eighteen hundreds and this was called the point cut. So here we
have pictured one of those Point Cuts. It's unfortunate that the point is
actually chipped off. But again, this is the earliest technical cut but really
what they did is follow the octahedral shape that natural shape of a well-formed
diamond and they just smooth the rough exterior. So very few of these Point guts
exist today because they were recut once technology improved now improve
technology during this time, really Simply meant grinding that point down and
the table cut was developed in the 15th century popular through the 16th century
and those who could afford diamonds might have had their point cut diamonds into
these table Cuts with this development. So really it's just a flattened top a
flattened culet and it ends up looking like a square in a square. So here's some
additional examples of table cut diamonds and engagement rings. These are from
the 17th century and I want you to know the ornate metal work and a bit of
enamel on one of them and that was meant to counterbalance the diamonds because
the table cut really did not have a lot of Sparkle like we think of modern-day
Cuts they didn't accentuate a diamonds ability to return light at this time. So
in Brazil they were Darting to discover diamonds in the Seventeen hundreds and
more diamonds that more diamonds ending up and engagement rings. Also more
diamonds meant more experimentation with cutting thing. So in the late 17th
century the rose cutting merged and that's where the diamond has a domed shape
to it. And it definitely offers more Sparkle more light return. However,
remember that the diamonds were only for the affluent so a respectable
substitute for a diamond was often referred. Crystal during this time rock
crystals are far easier to cut and polish than diamonds, excusing and diamonds
at this time. They were mainly coming from the Golconda mine in Faraway India a
little bit coming out of Brazil. So these rock crystals. Although this one looks
dark. Typically, they are colorless that like diamonds they resembled diamonds
and these were mined in Europe. So in the Alpine regions of Switzerland and
Southern Germany and France so completely Lee respectable substitute for
Diamond. So at this point in history engagement rings are definitely becoming
more commonplace. Although they're fairly simple because of the materials
available and those rudimentary methods of fabrication. So I want to look at how
those designs really evolved well popular on the 14th century lasting through
the 17th century was the fit a ring from then of the fitti, which means Italian
or it's Italian for Your hands in faith. It's two right hands that are clasped
and it's meant to be a symbol of pledging vows or Eternal friendship. It is
worth noting though that this style actually does date back to Roman times. They
were found to have been used as engagement rings in medieval and Renaissance
Europe amazingly enough. This one is from the third Century CE. So we're
actually going to see how the fit Arirang evolved into other styles in later
years. This is an interpretation of a fade airing which is incorporating that
table cut diamond. This one was probably given as a friendship ring it supposed
to an engagement ring. So popular around the 15th century lasting through the
17th century was a gimmel ring. It's from gemellus, which is derived from Go -
which is Latin for twins. It's also known as the puzzle ring, as you can see
sort of from the back of the band.

It was traditionally two or more bands that fit together to form one ring. And
this was meant to symbolize the intertwining of two lives. So each the man and
the woman would wear one part during the engagement and then reconnect them at
the betrothal ceremony. For the bride to wear so many Royals used camel rings to
propose marriage most notably and 1525 Martin Luther married. Katharina bone Von
Bora using a gimbal rang and the one pictured here dates back to the late 16th
century. So today gimmel rings can still be found. In fact, this is a more
recent design by the designer, Todd Reed. We could also see a combination of
design elements like this one, which we could refer to as a fait ring. So that
puzzle ring with clasping hands. In fact, this one pictured here the hand
separate to reveal two hearts that are engraved with the letters f and M. So
these Rings were often engraved with things like romantic mottos or phrases from
the marriage ceremony or just the names of the couple's and so this really
suggests that they were being used as wedding rings Popular in the 15th through
the 18th century was the Posey ring many different spellings for that but it's
named for posse, which is French for poetry. So they would be engraved with
short love poems or ballads. And this was meant to reflect the givers literacy
giftedness or their education level. I imagine someone was really trying to show
off with this ring and but these these Posey Rings were actually mentioned quite
frequently by Shakespeare and this one pictured here is from the Mid 16th
century. So there is many varieties of posie rings. These were really popular in
England and France and they were typically exchange between friends or relatives
lovers and definitely at those betrothal and wedding ceremonies. Typically, the
engagement version would be silver and then it would be exchanged for gold at
the marriage Ceremony. This one here is from the 17th century and it's engraved
on the inside with hearts United live contented. Although we're at the mid 17th
century now and the Puritans actually repealed the idea of the engagement ring.
They linked it to the clergy. They linked it to the church ritual. They thought
of it as very frivolous. And so instead they would present the woman with a
symbol a very practical item and but after the woman would actually insist on it
on the basket portion being cut off to create a band after they have the
ceremony and I think that this this is actually a unique lesson because
sometimes we can think of jewelry as being frivolous or an Expendable luxury,
but really some people find very very deep symbolic meaning with it that just
can't be ignored. so in the 17th century, we also saw the cluster ring come to
into play and I haven't talked too much about colored stones in engagement
rings, but definitely the affluent would want to sort of flaunt their wealth by
way of rubies or sapphires or Pearl's just to name a few here. We have a cluster
ring from the late 17th century with those table cut rubies. Popular in the 17th
and 18th century was the Claddagh ring notice. This is a type of fit airing
remember fitted meaning the hands clasped and Faith. Although we have some
additional elements. So the hands represent friendship that heart their
represents love and the crown is meant to represent loyalty. So the clouded
design is said to have originated in a small fishing Village in Galloway.
Although it has definitely come to be known as just a symbol of Ireland itself
and it's kind of neat. To have this secret language ring because how or where
it's worn actually conveys the where's relationship status. So whether it's worn
on the right hand or the left hand with the heart facing in or the heart facing
out. It's supposed to have this secret language of that relationship status.
They're still popular today. Although not commonly used as engagement rings. I
myself actually wear a cloud of band that I purchased in Galway when I visited
just a few years back the one pictured here. However is from the 17th century
and it has some of those Rose cut diamonds. Here's a Dutch adaptation of the
clattering from the mid-eighteenth century. All right. So popular in the 18th
and 19th centuries was acrostic ring. So this was like the secret language of
gemstones another one of those secret language rings. So typically not worn as
an engagement ring more often. It would be used as a promise ring. So sort of a
promise of exclusive commitment and intent to engage Marie Antoinette's jewelry
designer. Jean Baptiste narrow is credited with inventing this style. So it is
when you take the First letter of each gemstone in that piece of jewelry or in
that ring and it spells a secret message to the recipient.

So these are special styles for those who could afford and some of them are
common messages that they would write are things like regard or beloved oradour.
So you could spell out that you adore your loved one by using an amethyst
diamond opal and Ruby and an emerald what I have here is actually a A kunzite
and Alexandrite tanzanite and an emerald spelling out my name Kate. So it's just
kind of fun to think what message would you spell out in gemstones popular in
the 19th late 19th and early 20th century was the 12 mm. Mwah ring French for
you and me it's also known as a crossover ring. So this is a modern
interpretation of that fit a ring instead of the hands coming together. It's
gemstones and these two stones would be Side by side or kind of passing by each
other and this was meant to symbolize Two Souls intertwining. So in 1776, this
trend was really attributed to French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte and his first
wife Josephine. However, it was revived in 1953 when JFK gave one to Jacqueline
really revived this twat in WASP style pictured here. Both of these are from the
late eighteen hundreds. Another hybrid here the Joachim o-ring. This one is from
1814. So remember twice in one those two gemstones coming together and gimel you
can tell from the back of the band that it's that puzzle ring. Another hybrid.
Here is the twine. Mwah Posey ring. So this is from the Fourteen hundreds. It's
a sapphire and Garnett side-by-side inscribed with we to Monkey, which is French
for with all my heart. And pictured here a unique mixture of Design Elements.
This is from the mid 18th century get ready for this. So it has the twine y
element of the to Stones the Claddagh element of the heart created by those two
pair cuts and the crown the fitted because the hands are coming together the
gimel you can tell from the back of the band that it's a puzzle ring and it's
actually a posey ring as well because it's engraved with Gaz de mate. I think I
hacked that. I'm sorry and but it's a token of friendship. So let's recap some
of the styles that divined engagement rings throughout some historical periods
and you will know that some of these historical periods tend to overlap in
dates, but let's start out with the Georgian period so this was 1714 to 1837
this period is divided sorry defined by Grandeur elegance and there was an
excessiveness of affluence and there was lots of fine silver. Hi karadzic gold
large gemstones. However, they were typically set enclosed back mountings
because of that often. We would see foil back to counteract that lack of cutting
ability during this time and we'd even see them use something called paste,
which is really just a simulant or an imitation gem. There's some sub eras in
the Georgian period Brock. Sorry Baroque, which is the symmetrical grandeur.
Nate and showy period the Rococo which is asymmetrical very elegant and light
and delicate and then the neoclassical which is really inspired by Greece and
Rome. So it's that boldness but refined. And then we move into the Victorian
period so this is 1837 1901. to This was a profoundly creative period for
jewelry. There was a Resurgence of silver as a really stylish metal and there
were a lot of symbolic themes that started to flourish. So we saw a lot of
animal motifs particularly serpents and snakes because those represented wisdom
there were a lot of flower motifs because it was said that each flower. Bauer
would symbolize a feeling or an emotion without words kind of like the language
of flowers. And then this is when acrostic jewelry that acronym or initialism
jewelry is really popular. Remember the language of gemstones. So this Victorian
period can definitely be divided. We have the early part where we saw color
garnets and amethyst and turquoise and enamel to bring color into it and the sub
error during this period was The Romantic Period so it was influenced by
classical and Gothic Renaissance and then even ancient Greek and Roman
mythology. And then as we move into the later part of the Victorian period there
was an emergence of middle-class and then we have some sub arrows there the
grand period which was very much influenced by the Queen's mourning period so we
saw a lot of black materials Jet and Onyx and even black class during that
period and that moved into the aesthetic period where we saw a return to refine
designs smaller and lighter diamonds were actually reserved for evening events.

It was a little taboo to wear your diamonds during the daytime as we move into
the Edwardian period 1901 1910. Although sometimes it's extended to 1914. So
this is also known as La Belle epoque a period which translate to the good times
the diamond industry really started to take hold with some major sources. Isis
being discovered in South Africa during this time. So royalty was based on
wealth as opposed to lineage and also the American Market emerged at this time.
So we were seeing very ornate pieces. So the affluent really wanted to show off
their wealth and their rank. So we Lots of immense detail things like Scrolls
and lace and tassels Garland motifs open filigree milgrain embellishments on the
edging very elaborate but still very delicate and we started to see platinum's
first emergence into the jewelry industry because Platinum really help to
achieve that as it is somewhat of a stronger metal. So this period was really
influenced by Parisian architecture. Very monochromatic. Look white on white on
white and this is said to have been influenced by Robert pirès historic Epps
exhibition to the North Pole in 1909 to achieve that monochromatic look they
were using platinum and pearls and diamonds and when it came to Diamond
specifically the marquise cut because they said it was reminiscent of a racing
yacht concurrently with the Already in period was Art Nouveau. So this was 1890
to 1910 and we saw a backlash against industrialization. So it's really defined
by the freeform a symmetry of nature things were elegant and organic and
Flowery. We saw lots of Curves and Swirls and sweeping lines and a celebration
of the female form. This is a time of arts and crafts. So creativity was seen
across all the Arts during this period we're seeing In lots of alternative
metals to platinum so base metals were coming into play alternative gems to
diamonds. So more organic gems and enamels were being used during the Art
Nouveau period and then we move into art deco. This was 1922 1945 Art Deco
represented the age of the machine. So it was very much influenced by cubism is
geometric forms things were bold and angular with very In lines, it was all
about the glamour all about luxury Platinum was the primary metal with white
gold beginning to be used in jewelry. Yellow gold was not often seen during the
art deco period but what we did see was pops of contrasting colors. So pops of
sapphire Ruby emerald and Onyx and these would contrast with those colorless
diamonds. And actually the Halo style of today is a nod to this era so there was
a new way Of of feminism that rejected conservatism and they rejected the
traditional femininity and the Art Deco period was once described as not for the
faint of heart, but for the Bold of spirit and then we move into the Retro
period this is 1939 to 1950 this overlapped with the late Art Deco period so
this was really inspired by the effects of World War Two. So it was meant to
counteract those somber clothing styles there. lot of softer elements like
flowers and butterflies to kind of soften the arrows overarching masculinity let
a florals and animals were meant to contrast that grave reality of the
devastation of the war Platinum really became scarce. So white yellow and rose
gold started to emerge we were seeing lower budget gems like aquamarine instead
of the expensive diamonds and sapphires and rubies and emeralds. So we were
seeing sort of the emergence of the concept of semi-precious gemstones during
this time. We had the symmetry of the art deco, but it carried on to be bolder
and larger and stronger and we often think of the Retro. As kind of chunky and
playful. And then we move to Mid Century 1952 1965. So in reaction to World War
II ending in 1945. We saw much more feminine and Elegant Style so lots of
elements of nature or flowers. This piece here Vines and Starbursts and there
was actually during this time a real rise in popularity of matching jewelry sets
and then we come into modern time and some refer to it as mid-century modern but
1965 to turn of the century. So we were starting to really see abstract things
organic looks textured yellow gold. We were borrowing from other cultures. So we
saw some bohemian influences and really towards the end of the The late 20th
century it was all about more is more.

So at this time just for fun. I thought we could put up a poll and find out what
your favorite period is for the engagement ring. We're just going to leave this
up for a few moments and then reveal the results in a little bit towards the end
of the presentation. But which Styles your favorite George in Victorian
Edwardian Art Nouveau Art Deco retro or mid-century modern. Feel free to go
ahead and fill that out just for fun. All right. So we're going to pick back up
with the diamond engagement ring and we're going to look at how Styles really
evolved in more recent times. So in 1867 Eureka diamonds were discovered in
South Africa and the diamond industry really began. So in South Africa, these
were the first primary sources so much more diamonds being discovered and then
that meant an eventual trickle down to the last wealthy. So a market started to
develop in the u.s. Although diamonds and engagement rings still remained fairly
uncommon until almost the mid nineteen hundreds. Is worth noting however that in
1886 Charles Lewis Tiffany who was the founder of Tiffany and Company. He
introduced the Tiffany setting this was revolutionary in terms of setting
Styles. So until then remember Stones had been set really low typically in bezel
settings were metal goes all the way around. This was a turn away from that. So
this is a diamond solitaire meaning just one single Stone one main Stone its
high to catch the Light very Usual from how Stones were being set in earlier
times and it has sense the term Tiffany setting has since become synonymous with
the setting and not necessarily the company. Although you might want to check
out Tiffany & Company versus Costco if you want to know a little bit more about
that backstory. So in the 1910s, we had the end of the Edwardian period so we
were seeing intricate metal work a lot of that to enhance detail. They were
using Platinum this the 1910s were greatly impacted by World War 1 so there was
really a shift in focus to all things that supported the war as we moved into
the 1920s Diamond started to gain traction because more of that Supply was
coming out of South Africa. With that the industrial revolution had actually
allowed for better diamond cutting abilities. So we were starting to see more
cut and Polished diamonds in engagement rings and other jewelry, and then even
during this time the modern round brilliant cut was developed. So this is the
round modern round brilliant that we know today. And if you want to learn more
you can learn all about the evolution of diamond cutting and are diamonds and
diamond grading course, but this is when that art deco style really took Hold
think the Great Gatsby. Everything was glamorous white white gold and platinum
was big rhinestones and diamonds and geometric shapes like the asscher cut and
the emerald-cut were really popular and those Rich colored accents that I talked
about. We started to see jewelry houses really start to emerge during the
twenties Cartier and Van Van Cleef & Arpels. Really take foothold and then just
when diamonds were starting to find their way into culture and they 1830s came
around and we entered the Great Depression which lasted the beginning part of
the 1930s. So during this time diamond engagement rings were sacrificed luxury
in the u.s. Diamond sales plummeted engagement rings really lost their
importance and people would start to use substitutes. If anything so using that
paste that I talked about or even rhinestones nickel silver. I came into play
then but towards the end of the decade. We started to see a re-emergence of
seeing luxury markets being created yellow gold coming into style and that
Solitaire single Stone was really popular because it was simple and at a lower
cost because of one single Stone. So with the 1940s World War Two impacted
engagement ring sales immensely. So Platinum was prohibited to be used in
jewelry during this. and De Beers came into play and they were really working to
keep the diamond industry strong debeers was focusing on this idea with diamonds
of supply and demand to keep the engagement ring tradition alive in 1940
department stores started to carry diamond engagement rings, which was sort of
revolutionary to see that and the double ring tradition took hold of the
engagement ring and a wedding band and then Grooms also started to more commonly
wear a wedding band during the 1940s and then in 1947 De Beers marketing
campaign a diamond is forever really solidified the notion that a diamond
engagement ring was essential to any marriage commitment.

So they used a lot of well-known artists in their campaign. They embedded this
message into movies to do the campaigning for them and it worked so it's
noteworthy to look at the fact that over the next 40 years. So 1980 1940 to the
diamond sales Rose from 23 million to over two billion so not all diamonds were
going into engagement rings, but pretty much all engagement rings were set with
a diamond. And in fact, if you look at the cost difference in the 1940s, the
average engagement ring was about eighteen hundred dollars. If we ingest adjust
for inflation today, the average engagement ring is about $5,600. So in the
1950s, it was all about sprays of diamonds. So particularly those baguette Cuts
they acted as a sign of renewed Prosperity that World War II ban on Platinum was
lifted. Remember the twat in what style was revived thanks to Jackie O lots of
bold colors during this time. Audrey Hepburn started a craze of these stacked
delicate engagement bands. And then in the 1960s, we started to see unexpected
Center Stones being streamlined in white metal. So emeralds sapphires rubies
were all the rage everyone wanted something different something unique celebrity
engagement rings had a huge influence during the 60s. Particularly Elizabeth.
Taylor's 33 carrot asscher-cut diamond. And then we enter the 70s. So with the
70s the princess cut emerged the princess cut was developed in the 60s, but it
really took hold in the 70s yellow gold and bold shapes defined. This disco era
wedding sets made to fit together. Like puzzle pieces were really popular kind
of a throwback to that gimmel ring and a lot of cocktail inspired statement
Rings were big during the 70's and then the 80s. It was go big or go home over
the top. Top oversized bling bling bling. So think of these swirling lines of
baguettes. We had thicker metal bands white metal was classic but yellow was the
new standard and during this decade. There was Auto of sort of greed is good.
And then remember also at this time Princess Di's sapphire engagement ring
caused a ripple effect of copycats of that and then in the 1990s a hundred and
eighty degree turn around turn around sorry. It was a reaction to the
excessiveness of the 80s. It was all about Simplicity minimalism that Solitaire
setting came back remember the single Stone along with A very simple and
straightforward three stone ring the Marquis cut became All the Rage it was said
that it was much more refined than the boldness 80s of the past decade and
remember that Marquise Cuts kind of a tip to the Edwardian era. There was a
Resurgence of white metal during this time, so white gold and platinum because
at this time yellow gold was really Associated sort of with gaudy costume
jewelry. And then also you can't deny it the internet really The way that
brides-to-be searched for inspiration for their engagement ring. With 2000s it
was all about the Halo Halo Halo more bling for your buck. Yellow gold started
to come back slowly by way of two-tone pieces. And as we move to to the 2010s
Halo Halo Halo and especially around new shapes like the cushion cut so we can
kind of divide the 2010s by the early 2010's which it was all about round versus
Princess skinny pave bands. Rose gold really started to emerge and take hold and
there was a Resurgence in colored Center Stones. Thanks to her Royal Highness
Kate Middleton. And what was once considered precious? Sorry semi-precious gems,
like maybe Morganite entered into that fine jewelry market and then the late
2010 it was round versus Princess or cushion or Emerald or especially oval
because bride started to appreciate fancy cuts for the first time in a long time
old was new and there was a re-emergence of Art Nouveau and Art Deco Styles the
re-emergence of that three stone ring. Thanks to her Royal Highness Megan
Markle. There was the placeholder ring so that temporary stand-in for the
forever ring and there. I don't know if you remember but there was a Helzberg ad
campaign with a posey style ring that was engraved with this is a ring not the
ring. And then also we saw mangagement rings. So believe it or not. That was a
Failed attempt from the 1920s but it's the man or the male engagement ring and
it actually still gaining popularity today. So now we're in the 2020s. We've
just started this decade but I would say anything goes although it is still
about the Halo Halo Halo at least for right now. We're seeing lots of
alternative gemstones like colored Center Stones lab grown diamonds. If you're
interested, you could check out our Advanced lab-grown seminar coming up. And
even Moissanite has come into its own as a diamond substitute. We see a lot of
unique settings. So maybe the horizontal East/West setting of The Center Stone
or Compass prong setting or claw shape prongs, you're interested in the jewelry
like that and learning more we do offer a two-day Joy friends a seminar.

You can check out engagement bands are becoming popular as opposed to the
singular Stone solitaires, and we're seeing a lot of heirloom inspired pieces.
So replicas of period pieces telling us that old is still new. So my personal
prediction here is engagement ring doesn't need to be expensive doesn't need
have diamonds doesn't even need to have a gemstone but just it does need to
honor that 2000 year old tradition. So I thought I would share with you my
favorite engagement ring. So this was my paternal. Mother's engagement ring from
the early nineteen hundreds. It was passed down to my grandmother and she
removed the larger stones and she placed them in her own engagement ring. They
were all old European cuts and she and to pass this mounting down to me in 2005
shortly before her passing. I couldn't believe it was a perfect fit and I had
those orange and yellow sapphires set into the empty spaces where her larger
diamonds were to give it sort of a unique mixture of old and New it's one of my
most precious possessions blows my mind to think that it is about a hundred
years old. So I thought I would take just a quick moment and touch on how to buy
an engagement ring first off decide how much you want to spend in the 1930s. We
were looking at one month's income in the 1980s. It was supposedly two months
income in the two thousands three months income. So what I would suggest is
calculate extra income for one year and then that way theoretically it's paid
off in a year. Do your homework at the very least learn about the four C's Gia
dot edu is a great free resource for that. But understand that you kind of need
to have a little wiggle room because nature is unpredictable. So I would say
pick which one of the four C's cut color Clarity or carat weight is most
important to you and focus on that when you go looking to buy understand their
taste in jewelry, do they like Or classic delicate or do they want to make a
statement? Do they like white or met or yellow metal. If you can know their ring
sighs just don't guess and find a jeweler that you trust. Ask questions asked
opinions. They are the professionals and don't feel rushed and I would say yes,
you can buy online, but I always kind of say would you buy a car online? Maybe
maybe not also check out some of those vintage and Antique Rings if you want
something that feels like you have a piece of history, but just celebrate that
being having an engagement ring is being part of this ancient tradition and and
keep in mind the symbolism that the engagement ring really represents. So
there's a lot of great information. There's an infographic to recap the history
of the engagement ring. You can check that out go on Gia dot edu. There's lots
of other great articles. To check out and there's a book by George Frederick
Coons called rings for the finger. Oh, it's fantastic. And then also I will kind
of just throw out there. There is Museum of diamonds dot-org. It's an online
Museum where you get to share the story of your engagement ring, you even get to
officially name your diamond. I think that's fantastic. So real quick, let's
find out the results of the poll. I'm curious to know which one was the most pop
art. Echo yes, I'm not surprised 41 percent for Art Deco that period I wonder if
I had you guys with my little my little quote of it being described as not for
the faint of heart, but for the Bold of spirit, maybe I have some people
watching that really want to embrace that so I think that's absolutely
fantastic. I'm kind of with you on that with art deco. It's one of my faves with
that I'm going to throw it back to Natalie. Hi Kate, what a great presentation.
I will have to say that my favourite is mid-century modern, but you and I've
talked about that already. That is I just think it's fantastic. We have a few
questions for the audience and you've got about 15 minutes left. So just a
couple if this is an interesting one, if a couple breaks out who gets the rain.
Oh, I've heard this question asked so many times and unfortunately, there's
Really? No straightforward answer it kind of varies by jurisdiction. So
sometimes it has to be legally return to the giver no matter who is quote
unquote at fault for ending an engagement. But sometimes it actually depends if
the marriage ceremony has taken place because it could be considered that the
gifting of the engagement ring has become complete with the ceremony and some
places its argue that if it was given on a traditional gift giving holiday like
Valentine's Day or Christmas that it is a gift that word that belongs to the
recipient.

And even there is this interesting story that I read that took place and I want
to say Australia if I remember correctly. We're a couple broke up. The man said
the woman could keep the engagement ring. She threw it away. She wanted nothing
to do with it. He found out got really angry soon her. The amount that it costs
in one so she actually had to pay about 11 thousand dollars to replace the ring
that she threw away. So it is kind of different depending on where you live. All
right. So do you know the average price of an engagement ring today today? So
like I said, it's really interesting to look at the fact that in the 1940s we
were looking at I believe it was about 1800, you know, if you adjust for today's
inflation compared to what? I've read recently or most recently the average in
the states is 5600. Although of course that differs and changes depending on
where you are in the United States or if we're talking United States versus
other countries. It's a really hard number to nail down and but there are lots
of Articles out there that you can just jump online and see and it's really
interesting. I think to compare prices throughout the decades and and Watch both
prices and both Styles interests me. Very interesting. All right. Can you tell
us a little bit about wearing the ring on the left finger does everyone wear the
engagement ring on the left finger? Yeah. So I touched on that little bit about
the different Traditions going through history, but really in Anglo-Saxon
countries, the ring is customarily worn on the ring finger of the left hand, but
Customs vary considerably across Ross the world. So in some countries the
engagement ring is worn on the fourth finger of the right hand and this
tradition is commonly followed in places like Russia and India Scandinavian
countries some East European countries and South American countries. I myself
actually have friends that are from Iran and Iraq and they wore their engagement
rings on their right hand here in the states. So teach their own. Okay, that
kind of leads. Our next question. What are we talked more about kind of
engagement rings in Western Europe? And in the West can you tell us a little
about engagement maybe in other parts of the world? engagements in other parts
of the world ring, you know our engagement rings. He's all over the world or
they mostly just so I will say most of the information that's out there it
touches more and European cultures and then coming into the u.s. And more recent
21st century times XX R X 20th century and 21st. Century so most of the research
that's out there that I could get my hands on doesn't extend, you know all
around the globe as you can imagine engagement rings. They have a similar
history in terms of their meaning especially if we go back to the very Beginning
of my presentation where it was really just talking about the ancient Roman
times where the engagement ring was that symbol and so it's so the tradition
itself. We have found that it comes from that ancient Rome era, but it's sort of
altered and changed in other countries. It would be impossible I think to to
kind of touch on every every country. Their engagement ring Styles. Great. Okay
one question. Can you tell us a little bit about the Halo? Can you give an exact
definition for what a Halo is on the engagement? Oh, absolutely. So the Halo is
typically when you have one Center Stone and then a circle of smaller Stones
around it. So from far away it gives this big impact. So I would say that the
Halo style started probably more in the late. 90s when it was revived obviously
we talked about how this is a kickback or a nod to the art deco style. But in
the late 1990s early 2000s we saw for engagement rings what were called jackets.
So it is where a band would fit with a solitaire ring and kind of bling it up a
little bit and I think from there people really wanted to always have the bling
with that Center Stone and so from their jewelry. Shiners started to say hey,
let's just do a circle of tiny stones to really capture the light and accentuate
that Center Stone. Hopefully that answers question Perfect. All right, so did
engagement rings always have a diamond. So no, I I touched on that a little bit
but it's actually that fairly new tradition with engagement rings. So between
the thirteen hundreds in the Seventeen hundreds, some of those diamonds were
being found in the fields of India, but they really couldn't be cut during that
time.

They didn't have the technology or the understanding because diamonds were
harder than any other gemstone. They had come across yet. So they were actually
thought to have mystical powers and because of that. Typically, they would end
up with the nobility of China or definitely European nobility at that time in
the Seventeen hundreds gold miners in Brazil discovered design discovered
diamonds. And so it was kind of funny they were gold miners. So they're
searching for gold and they came across these colorless rocks and didn't really
know what they had at first and they were actually using them as gambling
placeholders, which is kind of funny, but eventually they discovered what they
were that they Had discovered a new Diamond Source besides India. And so that
meant more diamonds it meant more kind of playing around they learned that they
could rub two diamonds together and start to affect one another and smooth each
other out. They determined how they discovered how they could rub a rock with
olive oil and diamond dust and grind it down to make that table cut and sew
because the cutting was still pretty crude and difficult at the time. We saw a
lot of really Lee ornate metal work and the 18th and the 19th centuries kind of
a disguise poorly cut diamonds and and then like I had mentioned in the late
eighteen hundreds when diamonds were discovered in South Africa. Those were from
the first primary source ever discovered. So primary source meaning they
actually learned that diamonds came up from deep deep within the ground and so a
lot of those diamonds are what we call. Still in the pipe so they had to dig
Forum. But it meant that there was more diamonds much more diamonds than ever
before being discovered and it was that discovery that changed the face of
engagement rings along with the that cutting technology, the rotary saw was
developed during the early nineteen hundreds and that made a huge difference in
being able to cut diamonds into a shape that made it look desirable. So once it
was cut into this like sparkly shape people were wanting them more. It was
almost like everything coming together in unity with the diamonds being found
the technology of cutting coming around and then also with the wealth changing
from nobility. T22 really that monetary wealth and the u.s. Marketing merging
and that's when we started to see engagement rings with diamonds in them. Very
cool. Okay. So another question why why a diamond engagement ring? Why all the
giant? Yeah. I know there's so much controversy over like marketing just wants
you to buy a diamond. Well, that's part of it is mainly because of good
marketing, but the flip side of that it's just the preferred gem to be worn
every day for a lifetime and then to pass it down like my great-grandmother. To
pass her ring down to my grandmother and down to me because diamonds can
withstand that wear and tear they have this immense. What's the word? I'm
looking for resistance to scratching. And so if you were to wear something like
an opal engagement ring, although I know that they're out there. They really
aren't meant to be worn every single day. So something like an opal engagement
ring would be a horrible. ered for engagement ring because eventually it would
probably call it crazing but it would basically crack but many other gemstones
would as well now there are some alternatives to diamonds that are great in
terms of their hardness their wearability things like the Ruby and the sapphire.
So corundum is a great alternative Morganite. It's a great alternative topaz is
a great alternative but none of those are as hard as Diamond, so you We'll see
wear and tear on any of those other gemstones throughout like I said a lifetime
of wearing an engagement ring, which hopefully one hopes that they're going to
get to wear it for. Let's say 50 years, right and then pass it down. And so I
would say that yes, it's marketing but it's it's marketing the best gemstone for
it. Great great answer and can you tell us a little bit about maybe the most
common cut today for engagement rings? Oh, yes by far the round. So we're
starting to see and I think by cut you men shape, right? Yes, sir. Yeah, so was
definitely starting to see people pay more attention to the fancy shape
diamonds. I'd say some of the more popular fancy shapes still the princess the
cushion the emerald the oval the mark He the heart has a following as well.

I think I touched on all the biggies but by far if you were to look at the
number of round diamonds being cut versus the number of fancy shaped diamonds
being cut by far people are turning to the round brilliant. And there is reason
for that. It is all about light. We talked about this in our diamonds and
diamond grading course here at Gia and you learn all about light returns. Turn
but really light enters a diamond and it's very unique and how it bounces around
and it's cut in such a way that the light bounces back up at our eyes. So when
we have it on her hand, and we look at it the lights entering and then bouncing
back out at us and looking sparkly and beautiful. And so it's that round cut
that has the capability to maximize light return more than any other cut. So I
think that that's why people tend to still gravitate towards that But I will say
that I don't think I mentioned the pair the pair has probably been the shape
that has not gone in and out of style throughout the decades recent decades as
much as all the other shapes. We saw the princess cut really have it's time to
shine in past decades. We saw the Marquis really they have it's time to shine in
the oval more recently, but I will say that the downside of picking a fancy
shape.





THE HISTORY OF ENGAGEMENT RINGS



18 februarie 2021



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