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VETEMENTS SPRING SUMMER 24 COLLECTION BY GURAM GVASALIA

a la une, Fashion



by Diane Pernet

I met Guram Gvasalia back when he had just self-published Size Zero: A Guide to
Spiritual Management in 2012 and he was selling it at Art Georgia in Paris. Art
Georgia was founded by Sofia Tchkonia. the idea was to introduce talent from
Georgia to Paris. That was 11 years ago and I recently saw him at the Kim Jones
for Dior Homme show. If you have not read the New York Times article by Vanessa
Friedman, I suggest you do.

Rather than iChat’s press release I’d rather give you statements from Guram
himself:

VETEMENTS SS24 COLLECTION

“A tailor’s dummy has fascinated me since forever. My grandmother owned a Singer
sewing machine, and the dummy stood guard next to it. Its three-dimensional
representation of the human body allowed me to visualize all possible designs
and create garments in my head. Now, the tailor’s dummy is an essential tool
during my design process. I like to stay late hours in the atelier on my own and
work on new pieces. After long hours, sometimes it feels like the dummy comes
alive, and I can see the whole collection in front of me. I wanted you to see
what I see, so I decided to bring the tailor’s dummy alive and model this
collection.

As a child, I would often go to a public library in search of books on fashion
and art. One day, I accidentally discovered a series of books that changed my
perception of reality. The books were called Magic Eye, and the pictures
consisted of many patterns without giving any clear image. But if you focused
your eyes through an optical illusion, a 3D image would appear out of the
background. Many times, I dreamed that one day, I would be able to create this
visual illusion in one of my collections.

look 75

We 3D scanned a real tailor’s dummy and transferred the print to a sustainably
developed double stretch fabric that allowed us to create full bodysuits to
transform real-life models into living tailor’s dummies. We used the same
materials to build a space that allowed us to create the Magic Eye visual
effects. I wanted the mannequins to blend in and stand out at the same time. I
wanted the collection to have a visual effect of AI-generated garments. I think
AI has blown the roof off imagination, and people can now visualize things that
they could only imagine before. However, we still live in a real world, as the
Apple Vision headset is yet to be released. I wanted to create a physical
objects that would look and feel like an AI-generated units, while exploring all
the facets of what fashion is from the most casual to couture.

On the contrary, in its core, the collection is actually anti-AI, as the quality
and the craftsmanship involved can only be done by human hands and with a
passion that no machine can have. There is a genuine play on bringing digital to
the physical world. I digitally modified the patterns of everyday items to
completely blow them out of proportion, creating an extreme version with new
unique silhouettes and the flow of the garments.

This season, I wanted to introduce VETEMENTS eveningwear. Partially, because it
was a new uncharted territory for VETEMENTS, and partially due to a demand from
celebrity clients who are constantly asking for dramatic looks every award
season.

I love to work with friends and people with whom I have more than just business
relationships. One of my dear friends is Elie Saab, the master of couture and
evening dressing who practically invented this category and has ruled it ever
since. We always discussed working together but never found the right reason.
Once I decided to do eveningwear, there was no better couturier to work with.
This is how the final part of the collection was born. I knew I would need the
know-how to construct these garments, and Elie has it. To be honest, I think he
was slightly shocked when he saw my initial designs as they had a very different
aesthetic. However, it was a blast to work closely together to bring what once
was just a dream to reality!

We wanted to play with AI even more and asked CHAT GPT to write our press
release.” -Guram Gvasalia, Creative Director of VETEMENTS


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