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SLOT DE MAQUINA MAGIC MUSHROOMS

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Together, they launched into a vast multidisciplinary survey that mingled
botanical, linguistic and ethnographic approaches. On the other side of the
world, in Paris, the eminent psychiatrist Jean Delay, head of the Institute of
Psychology of the University of Paris, tested psilocin-based medication on
patients with mental disorders. This road of enquiry lead to a documentary
produced by Pierre Thévenard in and a mammoth piece of research, Les champignons
hallucinogènes du Mexique. It was published in by the French Museum of Natural
History. The scientific conclusions of these studies quickly spread beyond
academia. Eager for new experiences, backpackers travelled the roads of the
Sierra Madre in search of María Sabina.

Touring Mexico even became an initiatory journey for any follower of the
psychedelic vogue , including figures as diverse as John Lennon, Jim Harrison,
Aldous Huxley and Walt Disney. If the shaman is said to have the ability to heal
and to see the future, the historian has the power to travel back in time. Let
us therefore take a leap back several centuries to the aftermath of the Spanish
colonisation of the Americas. In Mexico, a few years after the Conquista , the
Franciscan, Toribio de Benavente, known as Motolinía and famous for being a
great defender of the Indians, offered information in his History of the Indians
of New Spain. Published in Castilian in , this work explains that certain
mushrooms were eaten with honey, perhaps as a means of preserving the mushrooms
and thus implying that they were transported and marketed.

Motolinía chronicles hellish visions supposedly experienced by the Indians who
ingested them — threatening snakes, writhing worms escaping from their thighs,
suicidal tendencies. Like many other native customs, the rituals related to the
mushrooms were thus condemned and prohibited by the clergy. Consequently, they
survived only in the deepest, most isolated villages of the Altiplano. Yet the
Christianisation of the indigenous masses never brought about the complete
demise of the cult of the sacred mushrooms. Even today, they are locally known
as the santos niños — sacred children. The continuance of their consumption
denotes an incomplete and superficial acculturation.

The only formal traces left of the importance played by hallucinogenic mushrooms
in the rituals, the pharmacopoeia and more generally in the worldviews of the
Mesoamerican peoples, are known to us through archaeology. Near the pyramids of
Teotihuacan, in the sumptuous residences of the megacity, archaeologists have
uncovered frescoes dating back to the classical period A. The fresco of
Tepantitla , reproduced in the Teotihuacan hall of the National Museum of
Anthropology of Mexico, is a representation of the paradise of Tlaloc, the god
of rain, provider of water and lush vegetation.

His Eden, called Tlalocan, is populated and luxuriant. On the fresco, from left
to right, a man dressed in a white toga can be seen picking the flowers of a
large, unidentified plant. Nearby is a corn plant, the very hallmark of
Mesoamerican civilisation. Dear to Carlos Castaneda , the plant has highly
hallucinogenic effects that appear to be affecting the man sitting beneath. Next
comes a cocoa tree, and in the bottom-right corner, on the shore of the lake
that flows into the Tlaloc River, there are three mushrooms, associated with
sea-shells.

Above, a man is crying. A stream springs from his lungs — he has just perished
from drowned. He is surrounded by butterflies representing the souls of the
dead. The veil breaks as the mushroom matures to release spores. Many growers
like to harvest the mushrooms just before the veil breaks. Growing magic
mushrooms requires patience, attention to detail, and a commitment to
maintaining sterile conditions at the beginning of the growing process. Proper
techniques help to prevent contamination, ensure healthy mycelial growth, and
maximize yields. More advanced techniques require an expensive piece of
equipment called a pressure cooker. It involves using brown rice flour and
vermiculite as the substrate, making it an ideal starting point for beginners.

Select half-pint ml wide-mouth canning jars with a two-piece lid a metal band
and a flat metal disc. Wide-mouth jars make it easier to remove the colonized
substrate later. You want jars that are cylindrical—where the lid is the same
width as the jar. Place the barrier layer on top of the metal disc, aligning it
with the holes. Then, screw the metal band over the barrier layer and the metal
disc to secure it in place. Wash the jars and lids with warm, soapy water, and
rinse thoroughly. Sterilize the jars, lids, and metal bands by boiling them in
water for at least 10 minutes. Once sterilized, allow the jars to cool before
use. Place a steamer basket or trivet at the bottom of a large pot and add water
to reach just below the basket.

Sterilized jars of substrate have been the traditional medium for growing magic
mushrooms. But newer, easier methods are here. Businesses are now set up to sell
you the kind of sterilized substrate we just taught you how to make yourself.
These bags have injection ports made of rubber—like the ones we just taught you
how to make out of tape. But buying the bags of substrate cuts out a lot of
effort, and you save a ton of time, and you lower some risks of contamination.

And they are, on the inside, sterile, wet, and filled with nutritious grains for
mycelium to grow in. However you get your sterile substrate, the next step is to
inoculate the substrate with spores. Shake the spore syringe and heat the needle
with a flame to sterilize it. Allow it to cool before proceeding. Inject about 1
cc of spore solution into each jar through the holes in the lid, aiming for the
area between the substrate and the jar wall.

Check the jars every few days for signs of mycelial growth white, cottony
patches. This process typically takes weeks. If you notice any unusual
colors—usually green or black—or smell any odors, remove and discard the
contaminated jar immediately. Once the jars are fully colonized, meaning covered
in white mycelium, prepare the fruiting chamber. To prepare a plastic container
for fruiting mushrooms directly from cakes using the PF Tek method, follow these
steps:. Choose the right container: Select a clear or semi-transparent plastic
container with a tight-fitting lid. A popular choice is a 6-quart 6-liter
plastic shoebox-style container. Drill holes for air exchange: To ensure proper
air exchange and maintain high humidity levels inside the container, drill holes
around the sides and lid of the container.

Arrange the holes in a staggered pattern for better air circulation. Once your
plastic fruiting container is modified and sterilized, you can proceed with
fruiting directly from the cakes using the PF Tek method:. After your colonized
PF Tek jars are ready, carefully remove the cakes from the jars. To do this,
loosen the jar lid, turn the jar upside down, and gently tap the bottom until
the cake slides out. Remove the cakes from the jars and gently rinse them under
cold water to remove any loose vermiculite. Prepare a layer of perlite for
humidity: Moisten a sufficient amount of perlite and place it on the bottom of
the fruiting container. The layer should be approximately inches 2.

Perlite helps maintain high humidity levels inside the container. Create a
barrier: To prevent the cakes from touching the perlite directly, cut small
squares of aluminum foil, plastic, or a clean, sterilized material. Place one
square under each cake. Place the cakes in the container: Space the cakes evenly
on top of the foil squares, ensuring they do not touch the sides of the
container or each other. When misting, avoid directly spraying the cakes.
Instead, mist the sides and the lid of the container. Harvest the mushrooms once
the veils under the caps break, typically within days of fruiting. Many growers
harvest just before the veils break. Dry your mushrooms on a towel or grate.
Store your mushrooms in ziplock bags in the freezer.

Slow or stalled mycelial growth: Ensure consistent temperature and check for
signs of contamination. This makes it an attractive option for intermediate
growers. This section of the guide will walk you through preparing grain jars
for mushroom cultivation, an essential step for colonizing mycelium and
initiating the fruiting process. There are various types of grains that can be
used, such as rye berries, wild bird seed, whole oats, or popcorn, but we will
focus on rye berries in this guide as they are a popular choice. This method is
well-liked because it is straightforward, efficient, and requires minimal
equipment.

Alternatively, pre-sterilized grain jars can be purchased for added convenience.
Simmer the grains: After soaking, drain the grains, and transfer them to a large
pot. Add water to the pot until the grains are just covered. Bring the water to
a simmer over medium heat. Maintain a gentle simmer. Rye berries: Simmer rye
berries for approximately minutes. The rye berries should be well-hydrated and
be plump but not bursting or mushy.

Millet: Simmer millet for around minutes. Millet is smaller than rye berries, so
it absorbs water more quickly. Wild bird seed is a mix of various seeds, such as
millet, sunflower seeds, and cracked corn. The simmering time for WBS depends on
the specific mix you are using. Typically, people remove the black sunflower
seeds before soaking and boiling the grain as well. Keep in mind that these are
general guidelines, and the exact simmering time might vary depending on factors
like the age and quality of the grains or seeds, as well as the altitude at
which you are cooking. The grains should be plump and moist but not overly wet,
mushy, or clumped together. Drain and cool the grains: Once the grains have been
simmered, drain them in a colander and allow them to cool for a few minutes.

Spread the grains out on a clean towel or a sheet of aluminum foil, and let them
cool and dry for about 30 minutes to an hour. Ensure that the grains are not too
wet or clumping together, as excess moisture can lead to contamination. Seal the
jars with their lids or seal the bags with an iron, hair straightener or bag
heat sealer. Place the jars or bags in a pressure cooker, ensuring they do not
touch each other or the sides of the cooker. Inject the spore solution or liquid
culture into the jars or bags, taking care not to touch the needle to any
surfaces.

Seal the injection site with micropore tape and store the jars or bags in a dark
place at room temperature. This can be done with black duct tape around the
outside of the bin or with a cut piece of black trash bag. This section of the
guide will walk you through creating a bulk substrate for mushroom cultivation
using the bucket pasteurization method with coco coir, vermiculite, and horse
manure as the main ingredients. There are other recipes but this is my favorite.
This method is popular because it is simple, effective, and requires minimal
equipment.

Alternatively, bulk substrate can be purchased pre-made. Keep in mind that the
recipe below is based on a ratio of ingredients and can be modified for any size
grow. Combine ingredients: In a large mixing container or on a clean tarp, mix
together the coco coir, vermiculite, and horse manure. If using gypsum, add it
to the mixture now. Mix the ingredients thoroughly to ensure even distribution.
Transfer the mixture to the bucket: Place the mixed substrate into your large
plastic bucket or container, filling it about three-quarters full.

Boil water: In a large metal pot, bring enough water to a boil so that it will
cover the substrate mixture when poured into the bucket. This temperature range
is essential for pasteurization. Pour hot water over the substrate: Slowly pour
the hot water into the bucket, fully submerging the substrate mixture. Stir the
mixture gently with tongs or a large stirring spoon to ensure that all parts of
the substrate are exposed to the hot water. Drain and cool the substrate: After
the pasteurization period, carefully remove the lid and drain the excess water
from the bucket using a strainer or colander.

Allow the substrate to cool down to room temperature. Check moisture content:
Once the substrate has cooled and drained, it should have the right moisture
content. To test this, take a handful of the substrate and squeeze it. If only a
few drops of water are released, the moisture content is just right. This level
of hydration is often referred to as field capacity. If no water is released,
the substrate is too dry, and you should add a small amount of water and mix it
in.

If the substrate is too wet, let it drain further before using it in your
mushroom cultivation. With your pasteurized bulk substrate prepared, you can now
proceed with the next steps of your mushroom cultivation process, such as mixing
the substrate with colonized grain or using it to fill your growing containers.
Once the grain is fully colonized, break it up and mix it evenly with the bulk
substrate in the shoebox containers. Mixing the colonized grain with bulk
substrate at a minimum ratio of 1 part grain to 5 part substrate and maximum of
1 part grain to 1 part substrate. The higher the grain to substrate ratio the
more you reduce the likelihood of contamination.

More aggressive strains and genetics can typically handle lower ratios. Now
place the containers in a dark place until the bulk substrate is fully
colonized, typically within 7 days. Take the lids off the containers and take an
extra empty shoebox container and invert it over the one filled with the
substrate. This will allow space for mushrooms to fruit and sunlight.

Alternatively, you can use a clear plastic grocery store bag stretched over the
edges of the bin with holes poked in it for air exchange. To initiate the next
flush of fruiting mushrooms, fill the containers with water until the substrate
cakes float. Soak hours overnight and then pour off the water. Another flush of
mushrooms should pin and fruit over the next week. Slow or stalled mycelial
growth: Check for signs of contamination and maintain consistent temperatures.
Poor fruiting: Make sure the fruiting environment has adequate humidity, air
exchange, and light. The advantages of monotub cultivation allow for
larger-scale mushroom growing with minimal maintenance and increased yields.

Clean the plastic container and lid thoroughly with soap and water. Allow it to
dry completely before proceeding. Using a drill with a hole saw or a sharp knife
or box cutter, make holes on the long sides of the container, about inches cm
from the bottom. The holes should be large enough to tightly stuff with Poly-fil
usually inches, or 2. Additionally, make holes on the short sides of the
container, inches cm from the top, for more air exchange and to help maintain
humidity.

Stuff the holes tightly with Poly-fil or synthetic pillow stuffing. This will
allow for air exchange while keeping contaminants out of the container. Adding a
layer of perlite to the bottom of the container can help maintain humidity. To
do this, add about inches 2. In a separate container or bag, mix your fully
colonized spawn with your bulk substrate at a ratio of about or spawn to
substrate. Break up the spawn and mix it evenly with the substrate. Moisture
content should be such that when you squeeze a handful of the mix, only a few
drops of water are released.

Add the mixed spawn and substrate to the monotub. Spread the mixture evenly,
aiming for a depth of around inches 7. Gently press the substrate down to create
an even, compact surface, but avoid packing it too tightly. You can use indirect
natural light or artificial light, such as K LED or fluorescent bulbs. Make sure
the light is not too intense to avoid drying out the substrate.

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