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Accessibility statementSkip to main content Democracy Dies in Darkness SubscribeSign in Americas A SOUTH AMERICAN WATERWAY BECOMES A COCAINE SUPERHIGHWAY — TO EUROPE Scroll to continue A view of the Paraguay River in Asunción, Paraguay. (TWP) By Samantha Schmidt , Jon Gerberg , Júlia Ledur and Sebastián López Brach December 28, 2024 8 min It was envisioned to be the Mississippi River of South America. The Paraguay-Paraná waterway runs about 2,100 miles, connects at least 150 ports in five countries and serves as the most important commercial river route on the continent. In 1992, the five countries — Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay, Argentina and Uruguay — agreed to establish the two natural rivers, which meet at the Paraguay-Argentina border, as a transit route for goods, dredging them to allow commercial traffic. Every year, thousands of container ships, barges and other vessels use the waterway’s brown, bustling waters to carry millions of tons of cargo south to Argentina and from there across the Atlantic. Story continues below advertisement Advertisement But this crucial artery has a new function. It has become a primary route for shipping record amounts of cocaine to Europe. The explosion in the global container shipping business has allowed drug traffickers to take advantage of a waterway that just years ago would have seemed illogical — heading south, instead of north, from airstrips in Bolivia to ports in Paraguay to Argentina’s Río de la Plata estuary. Map showing cocaine seizures along the Parana and Paraguay rivers since 2018 Cocaine seizures along the Paraguay-Paraná waterway since 2018 Amount seized in kilograms 5,000 kg 100 2,000 Detail PARAGUAY 17 tons in 7 seizures in Asunción Asunción Corrientes BRAZIL Santa Fe URUGUAY Rosario 25 tons in 14 seizures in Montevideo Buenos Aires Montevideo ARGENTINA 200 MILES Cocaine seizures along the Paraguay-Paraná waterway since 2018 Amount seized in kilograms 5,000 kg 100 2,000 PARAGUAY 17 tons in 7 seizures in Asunción Asunción Corrientes BRAZIL Santa Fe URUGUAY Rosario 25 tons in 14 seizures in Montevideo Buenos Aires Montevideo ARGENTINA 200 MILES Detail Cocaine seizures along the Paraguay-Paraná waterway since 2018 Amount seized in kilograms 5,000 kg 100 2,000 17 tons in 7 seizures in Asunción Asunción PARAGUAY Corrientes BRAZIL Santa Fe URUGUAY Rosario 25 tons in 14 seizures in Montevideo Buenos Aires Montevideo ARGENTINA Detail 200 MILES Cocaine seizures along the Paraguay-Paraná waterway since 2018 17 tons in 7 seizures in Asunción Asunción PARAGUAY Corrientes BRAZIL Santa Fe URUGUAY Amount seized in kilograms Rosario 25 tons in 14 seizures in Montevideo 100 2,000 Buenos Aires Montevideo ARGENTINA 5,000 kg Detail 200 MILES It now feeds Europe’s and the world’s growing appetite for cocaine. Since the pandemic, some of the largest drug busts in Europe have arrived on containers that first traveled down this river. Cocaine seizures linked to the Paraguay-Paraná system shot up fivefold between 2010 and 2021, according to the U.N. Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC). To take one example: Last year, after departing Asunción, a ship with more than 12 tons of cocaine slipped undetected down the Paraguay River. One of its containers, carrying black sesame seeds to conceal the drugs, left the Paraguayan capital in May 2023 and traveled south to Uruguay, where it was loaded onto a different ship to Europe. The drugs were found in the port of Hamburg in early July. It was the largest seizure outside South America in all of 2023. Paraguay’s antidrug agency conducts an operation to inspect a suspicious shipment of chia seeds destined for Poland. Nine days before the container of sesame seeds was loaded in the port in Asunción, Paraguayan officials had thrown a parade to celebrate the arrival of five new scanners, four of them donated by Taiwan and made in the United States. “With this powerful fleet of high-tech equipment,” the country’s customs officials said in a post. “Paraguay is no longer a river transit country for organized crime.” The massive seizure in Hamburg hit the Paraguayan government like “a bucket of cold water,” one government official said, speaking on the condition of anonymity because he was not authorized to discuss the case. “It was a huge embarrassment.” High-end technology, officials realized, was not a panacea. “It’s the eternal game of cat and mouse,” said Nicolás Benza, head of UNODC’s container program for the Southern Cone. “They have unlimited resources, while our resources are limited.” A NEW COCAINE TRANSIT HUB Locator showing the course of the Paraná River PARAGUAY BRAZIL ARGENTINA URUGUAY For generations, drug smugglers focused their business on the American consumer, trafficking cocaine from Colombia to Central America and the United States. The Brazilian port of Santos often served as an alternative departure point from South America. But today, as the cocaine industry has boomed and as security officials have cracked down on traditionally vulnerable ports, criminal groups have carved out new routes and new markets. Paraguay became an appealing transit point. It’s one of the world’s largest exporters of soybeans, beef and organic sugar. A landlocked country of less than 7 million people, it now boasts the third-largest barge fleet in the world, behind only the United States and China. 1 / 4 Just this year, about 78,000 containers have left Paraguayan ports on their way south to Argentina or Uruguay and across the Atlantic, according to customs figures. But the country’s law enforcement was not built to combat transnational organized crime. Paraguay, unlike its neighbors, has virtually no air radars. This makes it easy for traffickers in Bolivia to fly drugs — cocaine produced in either Colombia, Peru or Bolivia — onto illegal airstrips in the northern part of Paraguay, one of the most sparsely inhabited areas on the continent. From there, the drugs are taken by truck to warehouses, where they are concealed in containers bound for the river. “The evolution of organized crime has been faster than the evolution of the security forces,” said Oscar Chamorro, head of Paraguay’s coast guard. Every container that leaves a Paraguay port is now required to pass through a scanner. But drug traffickers are increasingly finding their way around the technology, investigators said, mixing cocaine in liquids, powders and other materials to disguise the substance. In June, Paraguayan authorities found more than four tons of cocaine stashed inside bags of sugar in a container in Asunción, bound for Antwerp, Belgium. It had passed through a scanner undetected. Charts showing cocaine seized in Paraguay by destination continents in kilograms Cocaine seized in Paraguay by destination in kilograms 400 1,500 4,000 kg Europe 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 South America Africa 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 Asia Oceania 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 North America Cocaine seized in Paraguay by destination in kilograms 400 1,500 4,000 kg Europe 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 South America Africa 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 Asia Oceania 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 North America Cocaine seized in Paraguay by destination in kilograms 400 1,500 4,000 kg Europe South America 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 Africa Asia Oceania North America 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 Cocaine seized in Paraguay by destination in kilograms 400 1,500 4,000 kg Europe South America 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 Africa Asia Oceania North America 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 2013 2016 2019 2022 2024 “We have our doors wide open,” said Deny Yoon Pak, the prosecutor overseeing the sesame case. “How much cargo has been shipped and we had no idea?” Earlier this month, Paraguay’s antidrug agency announced it would be halting cooperation with the United States, jeopardizing some of the most important investigations into cocaine smuggling in the country. One of those cases involves the search for Sebastián Marset, the fugitive drug kingpin who hid as a professional soccer player and is believed to control much of the trafficking down the Paraguay river. Some former Paraguayan officials argued the move was an attempt to protect top Paraguayan politicians with ties to drug trafficking. Story continues below advertisement Advertisement Following a story in The Washington Post that reported on the planned end to cooperation, the Paraguayan government reversed its decision, saying it plans to strengthen collaboration with the U.S. Drug Enforcement Administration. A SHIP DEPARTS AFTER A FINAL SEARCH Locator map highlighting Asunción and the Parana River Asunción PARAGUAY Night fell over the port just south of Asunción as a crane lifted one container after another, slowly lowering each one onto the Josamo ship as it prepared to depart. “Not yet, not yet!” shouted one of the crew members, wagging his finger and waving for the crane operator to keep going, then stop, before the container landed squarely in a spot below, with a loud bang. The Josamo container ship, helmed by Captain Néstor Riquelme, in video, makes its way down the Paraguay River. In just a few hours, the captain and crew of the Josamo would begin their journey south to Uruguay, carrying containers that would be reloaded onto larger vessels heading to Europe and around the world. The crew had never discovered any cocaine on board. Still, the captain, as he always does, instructed one of his crew members, this time Hector Medina, 37, to do a final round of checks throughout the ship. Carrying a flashlight, Medina crawled through dark tunnels and peered into cracks between containers, searching for hints of contraband. (The owner of the ship allowed Post journalists to travel partway down the waterway on the Josamo.) Hector Medina checks the Josamo for contraband after it was loaded with containers before heading out on the Paraguay River for Uruguay. Hours later, as dawn approached, the captain announced that they would be setting sail. “Informing … departure maneuver,” said the captain, Néstor Riquelme, 37. “Destination Montevideo” The Josamo left with 292 containers and 12 crew members. The floor vibrated with the humming of the motor as he turned the ship away from the shore and began heading downstream. A GATEWAY TO THE ATLANTIC Locator map highlighting Rosario Rosario ARGENTINA The narrow river was lined by marshes and farmland, sprinkled with occasional horses and cows. There were few lights. The following day, one river flowed into another — the Paraguay becoming the Paraná — and the Josamo reached Argentina. Story continues below advertisement Advertisement The ship would pass by the industrial city of Rosario, the hometown of soccer great Lionel Messi and the birthplace of Marxist revolutionary Che Guevara. The third-largest city in Argentina, it also ranks among the top agricultural ports in the world. 1 / 5 The river is deep enough in Rosario for seagoing ships. Cargo traveling from Paraguay must transship here, or in other ports farther south, before reaching the ocean. It has become a hub for moving cocaine to places as far away as Australia. In August 2022, authorities seized more than 1.5 tons of cocaine in a warehouse in Rosario. The packages, which were found inside bags of corn pellets, were branded with the Louis Vuitton logo and earmarked for Spain, investigators said. The warehouse — a nondescript garage — is located in one of the city’s most dangerous neighborhoods, where local gangs battle for control and have helped turn Rosario into Argentina’s most violent city. The government of Javier Milei, a radical libertarian and ally of President-elect Donald Trump, has directed a crackdown on the gang control of Rosario’s streets and prisons. His government has deployed resources to the area, including an Israeli-made combat vessel to patrol for drug traffickers operating in the waters outside the city. Farther downstream is Buenos Aires, the Río de la Plata estuary and the open ocean. After passing through the channel, the ships turn northeast — to Rotterdam in the Netherlands, Antwerp and Hamburg. ABOUT THIS STORY Photography by Sebastián López Brach for The Washington Post. Videos by Jon Gerberg. Graphics by Júlia Ledur. Editing by Jennifer Samuel, Jon Gerberg, Reem Akkad, Peter Finn, Joseph Moore and Adrián Blanco Ramos. Design and development by Yutao Chen. Copy editing by Frances Moody. Arístides Ortiz Duarte in Asunción, Paraguay, contributed to this report. Sources: Cocaine seizures data is from UNODC and Paraguay’s National Antidrug Secretariat. River data is from HydroSHEDS. 184 Comments Samantha SchmidtSamantha Schmidt is The Washington Post's Bogotá bureau chief, covering all of Spanish-speaking South America. @schmidtsam7 Follow Jon GerbergJon Gerberg is a Pulitzer Prize-winning senior video journalist. He joined The Post in 2017 and has worked internationally covering conflicts and investigative stories for the New York Times, Associated Press, "PBS NewsHour" and others.@jongerberg Follow Júlia LedurJúlia Ledur is a graphics reporter covering foreign news at The Washington Post. Before joining The Post in 2021, she worked as a graphics editor at the COVID Tracking Project at the Atlantic. Previously, she was on the graphics team at Reuters, covering Latin American politics, the environment and social issues with data and visuals. @juledurg Follow Company About The Post Newsroom Policies & Standards Diversity & Inclusion Careers Media & Community Relations WP Creative Group Accessibility Statement Sections Trending Politics Elections Opinions National World Style Sports Business Climate Well+Being D.C., Md., & Va. 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