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HBO MAX’S ‘NOT SO PRETTY’: TV REVIEW

Amy Ziering and Kirby Dick's four-part docuseries dives into the ugly side of
the beauty industry, exposing the hidden dangers that cosmetics and personal
care products pose to workers and consumers alike.

By Angie Han

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ANGIE HAN

Television Critic


MORE STORIES BY ANGIE

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April 12, 2022 3:29pm
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'Not So Pretty' Courtesy of HBO Max
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As soon as I was done watching HBO Max’s Not So Pretty, I went straight to my
vanity and whipped out my phone. I downloaded the apps the series had suggested
and looked up the ingredients of my most used beauty products; I googled the
Johnson’s baby powder asbestos lawsuit and the Safer Beauty bill package.

That I felt curious enough to do all these things speaks plainly to the
docuseries’ success in its primary goal of conveying information and spurring
action. Not So Pretty won’t be the most entertaining documentary you’ll ever
watch, nor the most artful nor the most moving — though it’s at least
entertaining, artful and moving enough to keep a viewer engaged. But it’s
valuable as the start of a larger conversation to be had about the hidden
dangers of the beauty industry, for consumers and viewers alike.






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NOT SO PRETTY

The Bottom Line Slim but effective.

Airdate: Thursday, April 14 (HBO Max)
Creators: Kirby Dick, Amy Ziering



Each of the four episodes directed by Amy Ziering and Kirby Dick zeroes in on a
different sector of the industry: makeup, nails, skin, hair. At around half an
hour each, none are long enough to go truly in-depth on the topics they’re
covering. Still, Ziering and Dick make efficient use of the time they do have,
braiding together scientific information, personal stories and cultural context
into easily digestible narratives about the ugly side of beauty.

“Hair,” for instance, is built largely around the recent complaints about
DevaCurl (a holy-grail product line formerly beloved by curly haired customers)
causing rashes, hair loss and other health issues. In interviews, scientists
patiently explain the formaldehyde-releasing agents in hair products and the
damage they can do, while advocates and analysts discuss the lack of effective
regulations requiring companies to actually test their hair products for safety,
or to recall their products once they’ve been proven to be dangerous.

Meanwhile, the episode also zooms in on the stories of individuals affected by
DevaCurl’s apparently caustic formulations — like Ayesha Malik, an influencer
whose video about her experiences with the brand raised awareness for thousands
of other users — and zooms out to touch upon the larger history of Black hair in
America going all the way back to slavery. That includes the pressure that Black
women and other curly haired women still feel to conform to a Eurocentric beauty
standard that positions straight hair as the desirable norm.







Likewise, “Nails” gets personal with one epidemiologist whose research into the
chemicals in nail polish was inspired by her own mother’s cancer, believed to
have been caused by her exposure to those substances at her nail salon job — and
also summarizes how Tippi Hedren launched the boom of Vietnamese nail salons in
America, thus offering both a broad history of the nail industry and a firsthand
one.

“Skin” and “Makeup” highlight, among other things, the dirty tricks used by the
industry to skirt what regulations do exist, to avoid legal consequences or to
defend against years of research showing the harm their products can cause: For
example, the “fragrance” often listed in the ingredients can contain any number
of chemicals, including chemicals the product explicitly claims not to contain,
because the specific formulation of a fragrance is considered a trade secret.

The revelations contained in Not So Pretty can be disturbing, and the real-life
anecdotes used to illustrate them devastating. But the docuseries stubbornly
resists either the helplessness or the despair that can come with such a deluge
of bad news, focusing instead on what viewers can do by ending each episode with
a tidy list of “do’s and don’ts” (i.e., actionable items): Avoid these types of
plastics, look for nail polishes free of those chemicals, sign this petition and
don’t forget to reach out to your congressperson about that bill.

This basic format, combined with Keke Palmer’s sunny but somewhat stiff
narration, can make Not So Pretty feel less like an episode of television than
an extended PSA, polished and simplistic and a little bit cheesy. (“Sometimes,
all this makeup may do things to us that are not so pretty” is a particular
groaner, even if it’s the line that gives the series its title.) And compared to
Ziering and Dick’s other crusading works, like Allen v. Farrow or On the Record,
Not So Pretty feels less intimate and intense, not because its stories are
necessarily less sad or important but because it doesn’t delve into them as
deeply.







But considered as a way into a topic too few viewers know about, Not So Pretty‘s
bite-sized episodes, relatively light tone, and shallow but broad explorations
could reasonably be considered a feature, not a bug. The qualities that keep the
series from feeling as hefty as it perhaps could are the same ones that make it
easy to binge, and the same ones that keep it moving over a wide array of topics
while presenting just enough detail to make you want to dig for more. If my
immediate impulse to take stock of my own daily skin-care routine is any
indication, it does exactly what it sets out to do.



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RECEIVE AND USE AUTOMATICALLY-SENT DEVICE CHARACTERISTICS FOR IDENTIFICATION

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Your device might be distinguished from other devices based on information it
automatically sends, such as IP address or browser type.

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GDPR

We and our partners store and/or access information on a device, such as unique
IDs in cookies to process personal data. You may accept or manage your choices
by clicking below or at any time in the privacy policy page. These choices will
be signaled to our partners and will not affect browsing data.


WE AND OUR PARTNERS PROCESS DATA TO PROVIDE:

Store and/or access information on a device. Precise geolocation data, and
identification through device scanning. Personalised ads and content, ad and
content measurement, audience insights and product development. List of Partners
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