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Trends


THIS IS NOT A DRILL: THE PANTLESS TREND REALLY IS HAPPENING

By Hannah Jackson

November 8, 2023
MEGA

Save this storySave
Save this storySave

Well, folks, it’s really happening. The pantless trend is in full bloom (or
should we say full moon?). 

Kendall Jenner 2022

Alix Newman/Shutterstock


Hailey Bieber, 2023

NACA


Bella Hadid, 2022

Photo: Getty Images

Lately it seems like everybody’s ditching their bottoms. While we’ve been
tracking the trend for several months, we really mean it this time when we say
it's catching on. Despite a fast-approaching winter, we can’t seem to shake this
trend. (I even tried it myself, and I must say, kudos to anyone who’s into it,
because it’s certainly not for me.) 



It began, at first with the usual suspects: Kylie Jenner attended the Loewe show
in tighty-whities over black tights; Hailey Bieber went out for dinner in a
floor-grazing coat and high-waisted black briefs; Bella Hadid strolled down the
street in white undies and mini Uggs; and Kendall Jenner forgoing pants at any
chance she gets. At first, it seemed like it was a trend just for those whose
job it is to wear conversation-starting outfits. After all, Kylie Jenner once
said that when she needs a boost of confidence she likes to wear low-rise
pants—a breathtakingly unrelatable statement. But, lo, the pantless trend has
proliferated, transcending the runway and appearing everywhere from the red
carpet to streets.

Cyd Charisse, ca. 1955

Archive Photos/Getty Images


Cyd Charisse 

NBC/Getty Images


Edie Sedgwick, 1965

Photo: Enzo Sellerio / © Olivia and Antonio Sellerio heirs of Enzo Sellerio

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The trend can be traced back to the 1950s, starting off as a form of dancewear,
and lasting through the mod era. Many dancers wore leotards over their tights in
order to create an elongated, more elegant line. But sometimes, they would layer
with shirts or sweaters, oftentimes belted to help clarify their waistlines.
“Cyd Charisse and some of the Old Hollywood vixens and ingenue used to dance in
things like that,” says image architect Law Roach. The look has become
particularly associated with Edie Sedgwick, the socialite and Andy Warhol muse.
In one especially memorable photograph, Sedgwick balances on a leather
rhinoceros, her black stocking-clad leg extended into an arabesque, a T-shirt
covering her leotard, save for the bottom. 



The look picked back up—again in an exercise capacity—in the 1980s with the
aerobics craze. Between Jane Fonda’s workout wear and Jamie Lee Curtis’s
electric chemistry with John Travolta in 1985’s Perfect, high-cut leotards with
belts were all the rage in the athletic scene. In the ’90s, the no-pants look
appeared several times on the Chanel runway, as well as Alexander McQueen and
Jean Paul Gaultier. And through the early aughts, Christian Dior and Miu Miu
took up the mantle as well. 

Jane Fonda, 1981

Photo: Steve Schapiro / Courtesy of HBO


Chanel, fall 1991

Photo: Victor Virgile / Getty Images

But the pantless trend didn’t move away from the athletic associations until
fairly recently. In 2022, Kendall Jenner stepped out in a look from Bottega
Veneta’s spring 2023 collection—a navy blue knit sweater with white cuffs, black
briefs over sheer black tights, and a pair of black slingback heels. Bottega
wasn’t the only one to send the look down the runway: Valentino couture,
Victoria Beckham, and Raf Simons all employed pantlessness in their collections.
For fall 2023, Maison Margiela and LaQuan Smith manufactured such styles, as did
Miu Miu, who made a splash with their controversial embellished panties, worn by
Emma Corrin (among others). The actor and fashion plate quickly adopted the
trend, wearing Miu Miu’s take to the Venice Film Festival as well as to the
premiere of My Policeman.



Since then, the trend has only gained more fans. Adwoa Aboah, Cara Delevingne,
and Jodie Turner-Smith all took the look for a spin at Vogue World: London in
September. Rachel Zegler tested out Sergio Hudson’s take on pantlessness for The
Hunger Games: The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes press tour. Lori Harvey broke
out the undies for a party, while Law Roach wore Calvin Klein briefs over
fishnet tights with his Luar look at the CFDA Awards. And, of course, we all
know a trend has truly made it when it ends up on Real Housewives and other
reality stars, like at Bravocon 2023.

Emma Corrin for Miu Miu fall 2023

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com


Emma Corrin at the Venice Film Festival, 2023

Photo: Getty Images

Jodie Turner-Smith at Vogue World: London, 2023

Yui Mok - PA Images/Getty Images


Lori Harvey, 2023

DAMEBK/Bauer-Griffin


Law Roach at the 2023 CFDA Awards

Variety/Getty Images

Paige DeSorbo, Bravocon 2023

Mindy Small/Getty Images


Erin Lichy, Bravocon 2023

Rich Polk/Bravo/Getty Images


Ariana Madix, Bravocon 2023

Bravo/Getty Images

Celebrity stylist Amanda Lim agrees that the look is recycling old trends. “I
love the confidence and power a good elevated pantless look projects. I think
that as people continue to connect globally—thank you, tech boom—and elevate
each other that this look provides a safe space to take control of your image,
empower yourself, and hopefully inspire your fashion peers to do the same,” she
says. “After all, trends are born of repetitive imitation and isn’t that the
highest form of flattery?”

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Roach, who personally tried out the trend at the CFDAs, thinks that the look
carries inherent cultural significance. He also thinks that the look is a way to
put a new spin on something loaded with symbolism. “I think there’s something
very traditional, and also very relevant of about a pair of Calvin Klein
tighty-whities.” However, he admits that he would not have worn the look until
very recently. “I think 10 months ago, 11 months ago, I would have never done
anything like that. I was in a place where I was, ‘What will my clients think if
I wore this?’ or whatever,” he says. Roach created a backstory for the look,
deciding it was what was under the Luar look, which was sent down the runway
buttoned up. “I just want to feel free, and I felt free.” 







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