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12 TIPS FOR USING A ROUTER SAFELY
December 3, 2013 By Sandor Nagyszalanczy filed under Blog, Woodworking Safety.
Whether used freehand or mounted in a table, a router is possibly the most
useful power tool in the woodshop. But working with a device that spins sharp
carbide-tipped bits at dizzying speeds can be quite hazardous, unless you follow
good safety practices each and every time you rout. Here are a dozen tips for
using a router safely while getting the best results with this versatile
performer.
KEEP THE STOCK SECURE
When using a router freehand, always make sure the workpiece is clamped down
securely to your bench or work table (the exception is large workpieces, such as
cabinets or furniture heavy enough to stay put on their own). Placing a friction
mat atop the bench/table before clamping can help prevent the work from
shifting. When routing boards too narrow to clamp, use bench dogs with the end
vise on a traditional-style work bench to hold the strip steady.
KEEP YOUR HANDS SAFE
Always keep your hands and fingers well clear of the bit. When routing freehand,
never use your free hand to hold the workpiece (see above). For safe router
table operation, your table should be fitted with a guard that covers the area
immediately above the bit. Whenever possible, use a push stick or push block to
propel the work past the bit. This is mandatory for smaller and/or narrower
workpieces, and helps keep your hands out of harm’s way when routing larger
parts as well. It’s also a good idea to use a feather board to keep the work
pressed against the fence and/or table as you rout. Not only does a feather
board help keep fingers safe, but it can improve the quality of the cut by
keeping the workpiece in the perfect position as it’s cut.
UNPLUG THE ROUTER BEFORE ADJUSTMENTS
Never do any adjustments on a router without unplugging it first! Always
disconnect the power when changing bits, servicing the router, or mounting an
attachment, such as a fence. Make sure the router’s on-off switch is switched
off before plugging it back in and confirm that the router’s collet and
attachments, clamps, etc. are securely tightened before powering the router back
up.
CHUCK THE BIT CORRECTLY
After selecting the bit you wish to use, inspect it for damage or visible
dullness. Once you’re sure it’s in good shape, insert the bit fully into the
router’s collet, then pull it out approximately 1/16 in. Leaving the bit in full
contact with the bottom of the collet can cause it to loosen during routing—a
dangerous possibility. Also, don’t over tighten the collet’s locking nut. When
working with a short bit, don’t extend the shank too far out of the collet:
Always have at least ¾ of the shank’s length in the collet. It should go without
saying, but only chuck proper router bits in a router: NEVER use carving burrs
or grinding points, drill bits, etc. even if they have ¼ in. or ½ in. shanks!
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GEAR
In addition to hurling chips and dust with alarming speed, routers are
notoriously noisy tools that are also capable of churning out clouds of fine
dust. Therefore, safety demands that you wear proper eye, ear, and dust
protection each time you rout. In addition to wearing a dust mask (I like the
cloth, washable kind), connect your router to a dust vacuum or collection
whenever possible. Also, don’t wear loose fitting clothing or jewelry which
might accidentally come afoul of the bit. If you have long hair, wear it up or
keep it under a hat.
START AND STOP THE CUT SAFELY
Never start up a router with the bit in contact with the workpiece. Doing so
when working freehand can make you lose control of the router; if it happens
with a router table, the workpiece may be flung with surprising force. Starting
the router with the bit touching the work may even bend the bit’s shank, or in
extreme cases, damage the router. When the cut is finished, make sure the bit is
clear of the work before switching the router off. When working freehand, wait
until the bit stops spinning before you set the router down.
ROUT IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION
For safety sake, the workpiece should always be fed against the rotation of the
bit. Freehand routing, say rounding over the edge of a shelf or cabinet, is
always done moving the router from left to right. When the router is mounted in
a router table, the workpiece should always be fed past the bit from right to
left. Feeding the workpiece in the direction of the bit’s rotation (a process
know as “climb cutting”) is very dangerous and can cause you to lose control of
the router or workpiece.
(The only exception is if stock is shaped using a router table fitted with a
power feeder that controls and propels the workpiece through the cut.)
TAKE LIGHT CUTS
It’s both safer and cleaner to rout a large edge profile, a deep groove or a
wide dado in a series of passes, rather than in a single pass. The heavy cut
taken during a single deep pass may incur a dangerous kickback. It’s also more
likely to cause splintering and tearout. Lighter passes are a breeze when
routing with straight bits (including vee, bullnose, core box, etc.); simply
reduce the bit’s cutting depth, then increase it slightly for subsequent passes
until full depth of cut is achieved. When routing an edge profile with a router
table, make your first pass(es) with the bit protruding just slightly beyond the
fence, then move the fence back a little for each subsequent pass. If you’re
routing freehand with a piloted bit, refit the bit with a larger bearing for the
first pass, then replace the standard (smaller) bearing for the second pass.
NEVER FORCE THE ROUTER
Never force the router through the cut. If excessive feed pressure is needed,
reset the bit for a lighter cut. (If you’re using a particularly large bit, you
may need to use a more powerful router). If routing scorches the wood, it’s
likely that your bit is dull and needs sharpening or replacement. Anytime you
detect unusual noise or vibration, stop the router immediately and inspect it
and the bit for damage.
SAVE LARGER BITS FOR THE ROUTER TABLE
Bits larger than 1” in diameter or longer than 1-½” should not be used in a
freehand router—switch to a router table for those cutters. Larger diameter bits
should have a ½” shank and be used in a variable-speed router with its RPM
should set to suit the bit’s cutting diameter: 18,000 RPM for bits between 1”
and 2” in diameter; 16,000 RPM for bits between 2 in. and 2 1/2 in. in diameter
(check your router’s manual or literature that came with the bit for more
specific speed recommendations).
DON’T TRAP THE STOCK
When shaping an edge on the router table, always rout with the bit inside the
fence and the material edge against the fence—never rout the far edge, which
traps the stock between the bit and the fence. This can cause the bit to catch
the wood and hurl it suddenly. Having the fence far away from the bit makes it
harder to use the proper guards.
ROUT SMALL PARTS SAFELY
It’s never safe to get your fingers too close to a spinning router bit. So when
a part gets too small to hold safely while routing on a router table, secure the
part in a jig such as a coping sled or other sliding carrier. If the part has
parallel (or near-parallel) sides, an option is to hold it in the jaws of a
wooden handscrew-type clamp. An even better option is to do as much routing as
you can on a larger piece of stock, and then cut it down to its final size after
the routing is complete.
Tags: router, router bits, router safety, safe routing, safety, shop safety
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22 RESPONSES TO “12 TIPS FOR USING A ROUTER SAFELY”
*
1. billy bob johnny April 25th, 2022
when the imposter is sussy😳😳😳
Reply
2. Muhammad Abdullah November 19th, 2021
Thank you for sharing this useful knowledge. Just loved it!
https://woodworkingtoolshq.com/
Reply
3. mario castillo January 27th, 2021
I would appreciate all the help in purchasing a router palm or plunge. I
would also appreciate guidance on selecting router bits. I am a first time
user of routers. Thanks,
Reply
* Customer Service February 2nd, 2021
Hey Mario,
Here’s what the experts had to say about your question:
My favorite small router is this one: https://amzn.to/2yTgK7N. It comes
with both a fixed and plunge base. It has great control and a nice soft
start feature. For bits, be sure to get carbide. You can buy a set, or
buy them individually. I own a large set with tons of different profiles,
but I find that 99.9% of my routing work is done with straight bits,
flush trim, and round over bits. You might want to buy a small set of
each of those types, or if you you know some specific profiles that you
might need, you start with those.
A set like this has nearly all the bits that I use, is well rated, and
costs only $55. https://amzn.to/3cIPTwL
If you end up using straight bits a lot, you might want to invest in
carbide spiral bits, but the set that I mentioned should take you a long
way.
Paul
Reply
4. Michel April 1st, 2020
these are very useful tips
Reply
5. Steven J Petrucello October 17th, 2019
From what I’ve read, few (or no?) bits are safe for use beyond 25,000 rpm.
Why do many trim routers have speeds, sometimes not adjustable, to 30,000
rpm and more? Is it safe to use a less than 1″ diameter bit with a trim
router having a no load speed of 30,000 rpm?
Reply
* Customer Service October 18th, 2019
Hi Steven. I would not advise using a router at speeds beyond 25,000 RPM.
If you router has the ability to go faster than that, and you want to
utilize it that way, I’d suggest consulting with the manufacturer as to
the guidelines for using it at that speed. I’ve never come across a
situation where I felt as though 25,000 wasn’t fast enough.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Reply
6. Michael February 9th, 2018
How to Buy a Router Download Now link is broken. It brings up a photo of a
How to Buy a Router on which the only thing that works is the X (close
window).
Reply
* Michael February 9th, 2018
No need to post – just please fix the link. Thanks.
Reply
* Customer Service February 15th, 2018
Hi Michael. This link has been fixed. I am sorry for any inconvenience
this may have caused.
Thanks
Jean-WWGOA Video Membership
Reply
7. Mick G May 1st, 2017
Thank you ! Handy list of safety tips. Made it into my top 10 safety sites
for routers … Now off to make a push block, featherboard and coping sled !
Reply
8. Landon November 16th, 2016
Hi
Reply
* john bob September 20th, 2019
hi
Reply
9. Gordon April 23rd, 2016
making a head board want to cut a grove to fit the shelvesin thesiges
Reply
* WWGOA Team April 25th, 2016
Hello and thank you for your question. Here is an article that explains
how to do this using a router:
https://www.wwgoa.com/article/template-routed-dadoes/
As an alternative, George demonstrates how to create dadoes using a table
saw here:
https://www.wwgoa.com/article/make-better-dadoes-on-the-table-saw/
(ZD: 3597)
Reply
10. An awesome person February 2nd, 2016
This was really, really helpfull, exactly what I was looking for when I
searched this up! Thanks!
Reply
11. An awesome person February 2nd, 2016
This was really, really useful, exactly what I was looking for when I
searched this up! Thanks!
Reply
12. Mooris Mntoninzi November 18th, 2015
This is very useful tips
Reply
13. Morris S October 7th, 2015
How do I make raised panel and profiles on freehand or without router
table?
Reply
* WWGOA Team October 7th, 2015
Hi, Morris!
There are a couple ways to do this, but neither is as elegant or
efficient as doing this with a router table:
– table saw: simple raised panels can be made on a table saw. For quality
and safety purposes it is important to use a sled. This should be made so
that it rides on the table saw fence, and runs vertically with enough
height to safely support your work piece. You will have limitations with
this approach (no curves, challenging to establish a tongue), but I have
made a fair number of raised panel doors this way that are “good enough”
for certain projects. I often use this approach when creating a raised
panel where the outside facing surface is flat and the panel raises to
the inside, mainly to keep doors thick enough to have strength and
stability.
– molding planes. You can go “old school” on this and use a molding plane
to create the profile. This approach opens you up to many possibilities
in terms of profiles. The challenge here is that there is a learning
curve to using and sharpening these specialized planes, and it is a
fairly slow process to create a door.
– makeshift router table. Fancy router tables are great, but you can also
get by with a smaller makeshift version for some basic and occasional
work. Take a look here for some ideas on making your own simple router
table to make raised panels:
https://www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-made-router-base-plates/.
Good luck with your raised panels!
Reply
14. Ronni Seaver April 24th, 2015
http://routertablereviews.com/mlcs-9338-all-in-one-router-plate-kit/ can
also be a router related product.
Reply
15. sam smith January 27th, 2014
“Don’t trap the stock!” I’ve never heard it said like that and yet that is
exactly the best way to say it. Very vivid! Very easy to remember!!
Reply
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