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JEANS AND DIAMONDS – THE ULTIMATE STYLE FLEX
How to make the most refined jewels shine? Wear them ultra casually
© Benjamin Bouchet
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Jessica Beresford. Photography by Benjamin Bouchet. Jewellery direction by
Caragh McKay. Styling by Benjamin Canares
12 hours ago
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every morning.
We’re used to seeing high jewellery on the red carpet: look only to this year’s
Met Gala, where Dua Lipa, dressed in a Chanel corset dress from 1992, was
adorned with a brilliant-cut 100ct diamond courtesy of Tiffany & Co. But
increasingly we’re seeing jewels worn as part of everyday dress; a diamond and
blue-sapphire necklace worn with a simple grey cashmere cardigan, or a diamond
and titanium bracelet peeking out from under the cuff of a wool coat.
Dior Joaillerie white-gold, diamond and sapphire Dearest Dior necklace and
earrings, both POA. Prada wool and cashmere sweater, £1,850 © Benjamin Bouchet
“Women are keen to free themselves from the traditional constraints of what they
can or should wear,” says Caroline Scheufele, co-president and artistic director
of Chopard, of the high-low mix. “Jeans and a shirt with a lovely bracelet, or a
sautoir necklace, looks exquisite. I love to pair jeans with diamonds.”
> Jeans and a shirt with a sautoir necklace looks exquisite
>
> Caroline Scheufele, artistic director of Chopard
That maisons might position their high-jewellery collections not just for
special occasions, but as investment pieces that can be worn every day, is not
surprising. It helps to bolster a lucrative category in the luxury jewellery
market, which grew six per cent in 2022 to $57bn, according to Euromonitor
International. Tiffany & Co had a record year last year, doubling its revenue in
high jewellery, while Bulgari’s high jewellery was one of its main growth
drivers, alongside its high watchmaking and Serpenti lines.
Chaumet white-gold, diamond and sapphire Liens Inséparables ring, POA. Piaget
engraved white-gold, diamond, sapphire and translucent blue-enamel dial
Limelight Gala Precious watch, POA. 16Arlington satin Lorelei jacket, £995, and
satin Nimue skirt, £650 © Benjamin Bouchet
Fflur Roberts, Euromonitor’s head of global luxury goods, notes how brands are
styling their campaigns with more casual clothes in an attempt to appeal to
younger consumers. “With Tiffany, models were wearing very casual clothes with
statement jewellery. That’s a trend we’re going to see moving forward. If
anything, it shows off the jewellery even more, so it becomes a statement
piece.”
Chopard titanium and diamond cuff, POA. Tiffany & Co gold, platinum, diamond and
sapphire earrings, POA. Raey wool coat, from a selection at matchesfashion.com ©
Benjamin Bouchet
Recommended
HTSI
The power of jade
High-jewellery collections are increasingly featuring pieces that look far more
toned-down. Chaumet’s Liens Inséparables, which was unveiled in January,
features slender ribbons of white gold paved with diamonds and subtle
blue-sapphire accents. “Saying ‘casual’ with high jewellery feels like a bold
statement,” says Ehssan Moazen, director of the maison’s creation studio,
“although I would emphasise that, regardless of the fact that we are either
at the start or end of a seasonal fashion trend, we are keen on social and
lifestyle trends. I was expecting the return of understated, quiet luxury and we
anticipated our clients’ needs when we designed this collection.” Moazen
stresses, though, that “casual” does not replace jewellery for special
occasions: “What I have observed so far from our clients is that they come to us
for both.”
Chaumet white-gold, diamond and sapphire Liens Inséparables necklace, earrings
and ring, all POA. Chanel High Jewellery white-gold, diamond and pink-sapphire
J12 watch, POA. Dior cotton and linen dress, £2,900 © Benjamin Bouchet
The trend also leans into the sentiment that jewellery – no matter which
category it falls under – should be shown off rather than sitting in a vault.
“Women are buying high jewellery for themselves and do not want to wait for a
black-tie event, they want to enjoy it,” says Scheufele. “This fresh approach is
a strong trend that makes me very happy. I’ve always said, ‘Beautiful jewels are
made to be worn.’”
Model, Katharina Diedrich. Hair and make-up, Sevil Tai at Noob. Manicurist,
Anais Cordevant at ASG Paris. Set design, Matthew Morris. Photographer’s
assistant, Camille Coutherut. Production, Jason Le Berre at Home
Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2023. All rights reserved.
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