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Submitted URL: http://preludeonline.com/f60/2000-prelude-timing-belt-done-other-work-do-you-think-i-charged-accordingly-263304/
Effective URL: https://www.preludeonline.com/threads/2000-prelude-timing-belt-done-and-other-work-do-you-think-i-was-charged-accordingly.263304/
Submission: On December 14 via api from US — Scanned from DE
Effective URL: https://www.preludeonline.com/threads/2000-prelude-timing-belt-done-and-other-work-do-you-think-i-was-charged-accordingly.263304/
Submission: On December 14 via api from US — Scanned from DE
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2000 PRELUDE TIMING BELT DONE AND OTHER WORK, DO YOU THINK I WAS CHARGED
ACCORDINGLY?
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4K views 33 replies 8 participants last post by minilogoguy18 Jun 11, 2011
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angeloaa Discussion starter
68 posts · Joined 2011
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#1 · May 29, 2011
Well I just got my timing belt done and a few other things, I was charged $950
labour, I supplied all the parts except for the fluids.
Below is a list of things I got done, do you think the pricing was fair?
Timing Belt Job
Timing belt
AC/Alternator belt
Balancer belt
Power Steering belt
Water Pump
Auto to manual tensioner swap
Crank Seal, Cam Shaft Seals, Front Balance Seal
Valve cover gasket and tube seals
Cam Plug
Valve adjustment
Other seals I had changed
Vtec Solenoid Gasket
Distributor oil ring
Oil Cooler O-ring
Other work I had done/parts that were changed
drain and fill ATF
flush brake fluid
drain power steering fluid
drain radiator fluid
change oil (synthetic)
Distributor cap
rotor
fuel filter
rear brakes (pads and rotors)
spark plugs
wires
thermostat
pcv valve
I was abit disappointed regarding a few things:
1. The mechanic forgot to install the Balance Shaft Retaining Clip, hopefully
the Balance Seal doesn't pop out in the future.(he used Hondabond on the seal, I
think it should be fine) When I mentioned it to him he had already installed the
new timing belt, I guess the clip had to be put on before getting the timing
belt on??
2. The mechanic said the Oil Pressure switch I bought was the incorrect part for
my Lude, after double checking the part number (37240-PT0-014) it seems to be
correct. I'll be going back tomorrow and asking if he can install it on my next
oil change.
3. While changing the Oil cooler 0-ring he wasn't able to tell where the Oil
filter base gasket (15205-P5P-000) went. (I know they're in the same area)
Can anyone provide me a link, this way I can tell him exactly where it is, I'll
probably print him out a picture.
anyways, thanks for reading and any help advice would be greatly appreciated.
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#2 · May 30, 2011
hey Bouck
He seemed to know what he was doing, his boss wasn't there at the time.
You misunderstood me, he changed the Oil cooler 0-ring but wasn't able to find
out where the Oil Filter base gasket goes, I found a picture (link below), I'll
print it out and show him where it's located.
Oil Sending unit on SH - Honda-Tech (post6)
As for the oil pressure switch I'll bring it by tomorrow and tell him it's
definately the correct part and see if he can install it.
Parts were all OEM Honda.
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minilogoguy18
2074 posts · Joined 2008
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#3 · May 31, 2011
Did you even change the rear balance gear case o-ring? They leak first out of
all 5 seals in the timing area. Why did you change the power steering fluid? The
only time Honda even says to do it is if the rack is changed, even the
instructors at the Honda training center say not to change it.
You can always add the front balance shaft seal retainer at a later time but the
lower timing cover will have to be removed but the belt does not.
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minilogoguy18
2074 posts · Joined 2008
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#5 · May 31, 2011
No, the outer belts will have to be taken off along with the crank pulley but
anyone who is good with those cars can do that very quickly, especially in a
shop with a lift and air tools.
The rear balance o-ring is so easy to replace, 2 bolts and 1 nut on the case,
the rear bolt to access the shaft is just to stick a screwdriver in to keep the
rear balance shaft in time. He should have replaced it, you just went through
all that to not replace the most common leaking seal.
If you have an auto then that seal you are talking about for the oil filter base
isn't even on your engine, that's SH only.
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#6 · May 31, 2011
hey Mini
thanks for all your help, I'll go see him in the next few days and ask him if he
can install the retainer.
As for the rear balance 0-ring I'll mention to him if it begins to leak in the
future he'll be responsible to replace the part/cover the labour free of charge.
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mensy
15 posts · Joined 2011
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#7 · May 31, 2011
FWIW...I just had my timing belt/water pump changed recently. Parts and labor
cost me $390 +tax (timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, coolant) at
Hamilton Honda in NJ.
They recommended the valve adjustment, new valve cover gasket, new plugs, new
distributer cap for an additional $330. I passed and will have my mechanic
friend take care of those items at 100k miles.
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#9 · Jun 1, 2011
thats super cheap, you guys from the States really have it good.
Here where I'm located, Toronto, Canada, the dealer will replace the timing
belt, water pump, drive belts, and coolant for a mere $1049.14 plus 13%tax.
Rear brakes, just labour $217.65 plus tax. add another $59.44 if you want you
parking brake adjusted.
Thermostat change (parts and labour) $176.73 plus tax.
Fuel filter (parts and labour) $161.81 plus tax.
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minilogoguy18
2074 posts · Joined 2008
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#8 · Jun 1, 2011
^Yeah it was so cheap cause you probably didn't change any seals and I'm sure
the balance belt was done or at least I hope so. You're going to be just like
the last person I helped out with a timing belt, all their seals started
leaking, ruined the belt and they had to pay all over again to get it fixed.
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minilogoguy18
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#10 · Jun 1, 2011
^Don't pay for a parking brake adjustment on a car with disc brakes, it really
isn't necessary, only if you have drums. Once you replace the rear pads they'll
just have to back adjust it.
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dre2day
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#11 · Jun 1, 2011
Mini is right, the balancer seal is mostly responsible for leaks in the timing
area.
If any of those seals leak on to the belts, you get to buy all new belts and pay
labor again.
I would have had him do a ATF flush with the ss tranny, btw are you saving up
for a 5spd swap?
$950 for the work he did seems fine. I really don't know because I do the work
myself, maybe I need to charge myself labor lol.
'99 Honda Prelude - Auto > 5spd *Completed* :nutty:
XTD 9LB Flywheel
Exedy Clutch & Pressure Plate
Synchrotech Carbon Synchros
AEM CAI
TSUDO Cat Back Exhaust
M2Y4 & M2U4 Trans Rebuild Writeup
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#12 · Jun 1, 2011
The ATF was drained already.
If I was planning on doing a 5spd swap I wouldn't have did any work to the car,
I would've drove it until either the engine o tranny died and then do he swap.
After thinking about it $950 labour only isn't all that bad when you compare it
to what the dealer charges.
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dre2day
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#13 · Jun 2, 2011
I seen that ATF was drained, however a flush involves drain, fill, drive
10miles, repeat 3 times.
The auto in my car did not even give me any warning that it was dying. I changed
the fluid not more then 10k ago and it looked clean and clear. Solenoids were
clear and functioning. Then one day I was driving to six flags and bam it starts
acting up throwing it self in to the gears and now its dead.
Just keep in mind that you shold save for a swap. Wouldn't make since in not
fixing/up keeping the engine before somthing dies. My engine runs great becuase
I keep on top of it and all I have to worry about now is getting this dead trans
off and swapping my manual in.
'99 Honda Prelude - Auto > 5spd *Completed* :nutty:
XTD 9LB Flywheel
Exedy Clutch & Pressure Plate
Synchrotech Carbon Synchros
AEM CAI
TSUDO Cat Back Exhaust
M2Y4 & M2U4 Trans Rebuild Writeup
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#14 · Jun 2, 2011
I wouldn't flush any Honda ATF tranny, if I would consider doing that there's an
easier way. Unclip the 2 hoses for the tranny, get 2 extension hoses (one for
each) one will go into a jug of clean tranny fluid, the other hose will go into
an empty jug/drain pan, start the car, as soon as you see the fluid emptying out
into the drain pan get nice and red stop the car and put eveything back
together. prcedure is very similar like when your flushing the PS fluid.
As for the 5spd swap, I'm in no way close to being a car buff but I don't think
you can use an automatic base engine with a 5 spd tranny, you can't just pop in
the tranny.
you'll need to buy a 5spd engine, 5 spd tranny, and many other things.
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dre2day
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#15 · Jun 2, 2011 (Edited)
So much to learn...
All you need is a transmission that will bolt to the h22 block, engine is the
same. Basically all "M" series trans fill attach with no manipulation.
Then you need a new starter, clutch pedal, brake pedal, clutch slave & master,
clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, manual shaft, shifter & wires, and some
wiring.
Credit goes to RomPirate for making it so easy!
Here is his swap guide
this is a list of transmission that will bolt on - minus the atts model
5spd trans swapable
'99 Honda Prelude - Auto > 5spd *Completed* :nutty:
XTD 9LB Flywheel
Exedy Clutch & Pressure Plate
Synchrotech Carbon Synchros
AEM CAI
TSUDO Cat Back Exhaust
M2Y4 & M2U4 Trans Rebuild Writeup
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angeloaa Discussion starter
68 posts · Joined 2011
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#18 · Jun 2, 2011
I didn't know that, you learn something each day.
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minilogoguy18
2074 posts · Joined 2008
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#16 · Jun 2, 2011
Either way your both wrong because Honda strongly advises AGAINST flushing any
auto transmission by any means, you either take care of it properly or suffer
the consequence of replacing it, simple as that. It doesn't matter how pretty
your fluid looked after flushing or if all solenoids checked out it's the fact
that old fluid was left in there for too long and the clutches wore, old thick
fluid was removed, new slick thin fluid added and bam, ****s slipping.
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dre2day
98 posts · Joined 2011
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#17 · Jun 2, 2011
IMO: I think my flushing helped my prelude last 180k with the original trans...
'99 Honda Prelude - Auto > 5spd *Completed* :nutty:
XTD 9LB Flywheel
Exedy Clutch & Pressure Plate
Synchrotech Carbon Synchros
AEM CAI
TSUDO Cat Back Exhaust
M2Y4 & M2U4 Trans Rebuild Writeup
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aslee
136 posts · Joined 2007
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#19 · Jun 4, 2011
OP, I've been quoted between $475-$1100 for a complete timing belt job, and some
of those shops were using non-oem parts in their quote. But labor alone, that is
3x as expensive as it should have been. Most Honda dealerships quoted me shy
under $800 for labor + oem parts. Cheapest I've found is $600, but that's a
friend discount. That pricing was overkill.
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#20 · Jun 4, 2011
Only thing I can say is maybe its the area you live in, I'm from Toronto,
Canada. I bought all the parts from States (CollegeHills Honda), if I would've
purchased the parts from here I would've paid at least 50% more, I worked it out
already, even had the dealership email me back a spreadsheet with all the
identical parts I was buying.
As for the labour rate, here's the way I look at it:
power steering fluid flush, dealer charges $94.88, I figure I was probably
charged $80.
Rad fluid change, dealer charges $94.88, I figure I was probably charges $65.
Fuel filter change, dealer charges $161.81 (parts and labour), I supplied the
part ($23 for the filter) so I was probably charged $80 to install it.
Rear breaks (pads and rotors) dealer charges $217.65 (labour only), I was
probably charged $80.
Thermostat, dealer charges 176.73 (parts and labour), I suppied the part, I was
probably charged $60.
*The tranny and break fluid wasn't changed, I made a mistake when I originally
posted it.
All the above extra stuff cost me $365, labour alone which is reasonable.
So I paid $585 and had my timing belt done along with the 3 other belts, valve
adjustment, tensioner swap, seals replaced, water pump, oil change (I had the
parts but I was short by 2litres)
The Dealer charges $118.88 just for a vavle adjustment.
I don't think I was charged anything for installing plugs, cap, rotor, wires,
these items were being taken off anyways during the job.
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350is
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#21 · Jun 5, 2011 (Edited)
FYI, I pay around $500 buck parts & labor at my local shop for a complete oem
timing belts w/ water pumps and all those misc belts go with it. I have changed
3 times by now at every (100k x 3); my car perform like brand new at way more
than 300k miles. oh well i need to wait till 400k to do another new set Honda
parts are too ez to get for good deal. If I want to order it myself and take it
to local shop for just labor then it probably 50/50 cost. 1k labor cost only for
many other listed works but seem high though ! For other sparkplugs, rotor cap &
cable...I ordered & diy.
98 Prelude black/black, K&N air filter, Eibach Prokit, HID; Alpine HU, Alpine
V12 4-channel amps, Kappa Perfect speaker system; Car run so smooth like new.
09 IS350 black/black, K&N air filter, Nav, luxury sport package. Smooth Power!
13 GT86/FRS white, K&N air filter, Eibach Prokit, LED, DRL, DC sport exhaust.
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#26 · Jun 5, 2011
It's always good to have someone beside you if you screw up but if none of your
buddies are mechanically inclined who can you turn to, the manual??
Guys some of us want to learn but really have no guidance so we end of paying
people to do the work and hopefully they do what is expected.
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minilogoguy18
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#22 · Jun 5, 2011
^Dude, we're on the exact same page, I tell people all the time, especially the
type of person found on a forum like this that is into modifying the car, learn
to work on it yourself, you'll save an enormous amount of money. A timing belt
can be done by someone that has basic tools and the helms manual which can
usually be found to download for free.
Even more so to those that want a modified car, either learn to work on it
yourself or you have no business modifying it.
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dre2day
98 posts · Joined 2011
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#23 · Jun 5, 2011
Yup. I do it all my self. Hard at times when you don't have the right tools but
that's where enjunity (spell check) kicks in. I'm working on rebuilding a trans
and I have everything except that dang Diff preload tension tool, thought it was
going to be hard but its easy to take apart and repair.
'99 Honda Prelude - Auto > 5spd *Completed* :nutty:
XTD 9LB Flywheel
Exedy Clutch & Pressure Plate
Synchrotech Carbon Synchros
AEM CAI
TSUDO Cat Back Exhaust
M2Y4 & M2U4 Trans Rebuild Writeup
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minilogoguy18
2074 posts · Joined 2008
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#24 · Jun 5, 2011
^Pretty rare to have to replace diff bearings or even mess with the diff at all,
they're usually pretty tough, maybe someone didn't keep up with the fluid? The
beauty you'll find with your new manual swap though is that it's pretty straight
forward to rebuild, nothing like the problems that come with an auto.
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dre2day
98 posts · Joined 2011
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#25 · Jun 5, 2011
This trans probably never had the oil changed. The inside of the case was black
and so was the oil.
Also I am using a different clutch case so the manual says I need to check for
proper preload with the 75mm shim. It is really straight forward, two towers and
the diff. Nothing compared to what I have seen with an auto schematic.
Painted the case and waiting for the carbon sychro rings before I can glue it
back together and do my swap.
'99 Honda Prelude - Auto > 5spd *Completed* :nutty:
XTD 9LB Flywheel
Exedy Clutch & Pressure Plate
Synchrotech Carbon Synchros
AEM CAI
TSUDO Cat Back Exhaust
M2Y4 & M2U4 Trans Rebuild Writeup
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#27 · Jun 5, 2011
My hobbies are:
modding/jtaging/repairing xbox 360's PS3 (I do not play any games, have no
interest)
working on problematic PC's, MB's, PC formats, etc.
I love detailing my car, I'll spend days on it if I'm not working.
Believe me I'm not a broke hobbiest.
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angeloaa Discussion starter
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#28 · Jun 5, 2011
In other words, if you can't work on the car yourself, don't buy one.:laugh:
We can't all be mechanics/mechanically inclined like yourself, whether you have
a manual or not.
You were interested in cars at a young age which is probably why you can work on
your cars, boats, trucks, snowmobile, dirt bikes, lawn mower, whatever has an
engine, I'm sure you can get it going.
Where as some of us have our priorities else where.
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drjless
5 posts · Joined 2011
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#29 · Jun 8, 2011
any one that does a full timing balance and pump service for under 700 is
scamming. oem parts for the full job cost 500 plus some extras. bare minimum is
3 hrs labour but more likely near 4 to 5. with all the extra stuff you got done
id say you made out just fine. sure you can change a timing belt for 300, but
that is about 10% of the job.
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350is
25 posts · Joined 2011
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#30 · Jun 9, 2011
see below for example, I just do a quick check price belt kit w/ pump and price
is including shipping. Shop around for good for installed 50 part/50 labor cost
! get the idea??? If you drive straight to dealer advisor or to any shop. Oh
well expect to pay that rip off service $700 to 1k
------------------------------
Price:$237.72.
Low price guarantee
In Stock
TIMING BELT KIT -- Includes timing belt, water pump, 1 balance shaft belt, 1
belt tensioner, and 1 balance shaft tensioner; Complete with detailed
instructions; Guaranteed to fit and meet the specifications of the OE parts
being replaced; Contents are individually packaged in plastic bags so that the
parts can be identified and compared to the original without compromising the
integrity of the kit; With Dayco limited warranty.
Fit Note: Interference Engine
Product Fit: OE replacement
Idler Pulley Included: No
Tensioner Included: Yes - 2 pieces
Water Pump Included: Yes
98 Prelude black/black, K&N air filter, Eibach Prokit, HID; Alpine HU, Alpine
V12 4-channel amps, Kappa Perfect speaker system; Car run so smooth like new.
09 IS350 black/black, K&N air filter, Nav, luxury sport package. Smooth Power!
13 GT86/FRS white, K&N air filter, Eibach Prokit, LED, DRL, DC sport exhaust.
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minilogoguy18
2074 posts · Joined 2008
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#31 · Jun 9, 2011
^No seals? There are 5 oil seals that need to be replaced behind the belt, when
they start leaking you'll be doing the job all over again. The oil wetting the
belt with cause it to stretch and possibly fail.
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drjless
5 posts · Joined 2011
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#32 · Jun 10, 2011
hey 350, this is the perfect example of what im talking about. you are comparing
a half ass job using aftermarket oe "LIKE" parts. the op is talking about the
full job using oem parts. you cant pretend these are equal jobs. as said above
me, well see whose smarter in 6 months.
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H22-Lude
80 posts · Joined 2008
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#33 · Jun 10, 2011
There are some things better left to the professionals. Can I do most of the
work on my car? Sure, have I done all of it? Nope. Changing axles, brakes, tie
rods, steering rack, most mechnical stuff I may do, but things requiring wiring?
No way, could I? Sure, it's just something I hate doing and am not as proficient
as I would like to be in. Don't get me wrong, I've built tube based power amps
from the chassis up from a kit before but wiring in cars isn't something I like
doing. Fabricating and welding simply isn't something I am good at either, so
what do I do? Pay a professional to make sure it gets done right. Just because
you pay someone to do work on your car, does not mean you can't do it. I choose
which things I work on for a reason.
1998 Prelude base 502whp@22psi
BB Squad v2. #130
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Honda Prelude Online
A forum community dedicated to Honda Prelude owners and enthusiasts. Come join
the discussion about performance, modifications, racing, engine swaps,
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