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WITH CHICHA, PORTLAND’S ANDINA PIVOTED TO PERUVIAN STREET FOOD, SERVED IN THE
ACTUAL STREET (RESTAURANT REVIEW)


Updated: Dec. 10, 2021, 2:14 p.m. | Published: Dec. 10, 2021, 2:14 p.m.
19

Chicha Restaurant


By Michael Russell | The Oregonian/OregonLive

I arrived too late for peak Andina. The powerhouse Pearl District restaurant was
named The Oregonian’s Restaurant of the Year in 2005, then lost its rising star
chef that same year. But it still had a glow when I first visited in 2006. I can
remember my first meal, a fun date filled with Peruvian stuffed peppers,
tropically sweet Sacsayhuamán cocktails and a slight seasick feeling from the
$90 bill (yes, that would qualify as a bargain today).

Over the next 15 years, Andina grew into a behemoth, with hundreds of seats
across three levels, multiple private dining rooms and a pair of notorious 2013
norovirus outbreaks. Half a decade ago, I somewhat infamously dropped Andina
from our annual restaurant guide, arguing that the restaurant was adrift.



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