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Some of the city’s best-known Italian restaurants have a cultivated ambiance one step below a private club on nonmembers’ night, which makes Ardo notable for its unfussy sophistication. The chef and co-owner, Michael Angeloni, is a noodle savant when it comes to both classics (rigatoni with bolognese farfalle with walnut-arugula pesto) and impieties (campanelle with Dungeness crab and mustard seeds mezzaluna stuffed with short rib in a jalapeño-spiked jus).Ī post shared by ARDO Restaurant on at 3:47pm PDT Bigourdan, who was a partner in Splendido during its heyday and currently runs Carbon Bar on Queen East, is also involved here, which explains the gracious servers, smart wine list, and slick room of marble, subway tile and leather sling seats that fool you into forgetting you’re in the bowels of a transit terminal. There’s also the excellent, pasta-centric Amano. 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